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이 번역은 원본 안내서의 최신 업데이트를 반영하지 않을 수 있습니다. 번역 업데이트를 돕거나 아니면 원본 안내서 보기를 참조하세요.

MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체

필요한 것

  1. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, Auto Boot/자동 부팅 비활성화: 1 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, Auto Boot/자동 부팅 비활성화: 1 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, Auto Boot/자동 부팅 비활성화: 1 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • 이 절차를 시작하기 전에 Mac Auto Boot/자동 부팅 기능을 비활성화해야 합니다. Auto Boot/자동 부팅은 덮개를 열면 Mac 전원을 켜며 분해 도중 실수로 촉발할 수 있습니다. 이 안내서를 사용하거나 아래의 약식 지침을 따라서 Auto Boot/자동 부팅을 비활성화 하세요. 이 지침은 모든 Mac에서 작동하지 않을 수 있습니다.

    • Mac 전원을 켜고 Terminal/터미널을 시작하세요.

    • 다음 명령을 복사하여 Terminal/터미널에 붙여 넣으세요 (또는 정확히 입력하세요).

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • [return]을 누르세요. 관리자 암호 입력 메시지가 나타나면 관리자 암호를 입력하고 [return]을 다시 누르세요. 참고: return 키는 ⏎ 또는 "enter/입력"으로 표시되어 있을 수도 있습니다.

    • 이제 Mac 전원을 안전하게 끄고, 실수로 전원을 켜지 않으며, 하단 케이스를 열 수 있습니다.

    • Mac 수리를 완료하고 성공적으로 재조립하면 다음 명령을 사용하여 Auto Boot/자동 부팅을 다시 활성화 하세요.

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    Macrepair SF - 답글

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.

    Dan -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - 답글

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - 답글

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - 답글

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - 답글

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron - 답글

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek - 답글

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen - 답글

    If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot

    Roberto Sanchez Bustos -

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik - 답글

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu - 답글

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák - 답글

    Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's: nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot' to display the current state, the default is true - and then to change it, sudo nvram auto-boot=false which turns it off.

    Ed Mechem -

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby - 답글

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 - 답글

    I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

    hatuxka - 답글

    BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

    I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

    Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

    bcardanha - 답글

    I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?

    peter sussex -

    When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

    johann beda - 답글

    When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a pwd (print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.

    Ed Mechem -

    I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

    I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

    I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

    Mircea Comanici - 답글

    After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

    Ed Mease - 답글

    This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

    G Sena - 답글

    Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?

    maël muzelet - 답글

    Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"

    Claire Miesch -

    Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.

    Tom Markham - 답글

    If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.

    arichard2401 - 답글

    For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.

    Nicholas R Licato - 답글

    Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
    I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).

    Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.

    Cédric Bontems - 답글

    After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.

    Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.

    No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.

    Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.

    webrockers - 답글

    I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.

    I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.

    webrockers -

  2. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, Pentalobe/별나사 풀기: 2 단계, 이미지 1/1
    이 단계에 사용된 도구:
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.95
    구매
    • 계속하기 전에 MacBook 플러그를 뽑고 전원을 끄세요. 디스플레이를 닫고 부드러운 표면 위에 뒤집어 놓으세요.

    • P5 Pentalobe/별나사 드라이버를 사용하여 하단 케이스를 고정하는 나사 여섯 개를 풀어주세요:

    • 6.2mm 나사 두 개

    • 3.4mm 나사 네 개

    • 이 수리를 하는 동안, 각 나사를 기억하고 기기 손상을 방지하기 위해 원래 위치로 정확히 돌아가는 것을 확인하세요.

    Sur le mien A1708 EMC3164 j’ai 4 vis de 6,2 (les coins) et 2 vis de 3,4 celles au milieu en bas

    Olivier Cecillon - 답글

    Ce tutoriel n’est pas dans la bonne section !

    c’est le 13” avec touch bar et non celui avec les touches de fonction .

    l’autre tuto nommé “écran complet” est le bon

    Vincent Morault - 답글

    Bonjour Vincent,

    Si vous cherchez le même tutoriel pour le MacBook 13” non Touch Bar, le voici : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...

    Claire Miesch -

    Before you start I suggest you get magnifier eyeware as screws and connectors are very small and good lightning are a big PLUS

    Gilles Vigeral - 답글

    Completed whole steps in over 4 hours….but worth it. Works back perfect and battery error message is gone….

    Gilles Vigeral - 답글

    Nothing beats a properly grounded ESD workstation, and a grounded wrist strap.

    Robin Ray - 답글

  3. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 흡입 컵을 사용하여 틈 만들기: 3 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 흡입 컵을 사용하여 틈 만들기: 3 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • MacBook Pro 전면-중앙 근처 하단 케이스에 흡입 핸들을 사용하세요.

    • 흡입 핸들을 들어 올려 하단 케이스와 섀시사이에 약간의 틈을 만드세요.

  4. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 클립 풀기: 4 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 클립 풀기: 4 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 클립 풀기: 4 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • 여는 픽의 한쪽 모서리를 하단 케이스와 섀시사이의 틈에 넣으세요.

    • 여는 픽의 한쪽 모서리를 하단 케이스와 섀시사이의 틈에 넣으세요.

    • 이렇게 하면 하단 케이스를 섀시에 고정하는 첫 번째 숨겨진 클립이 풀립니다. 클립이 풀리는 것을 느끼고 풀리는 소리도 들려야 합니다.

    The instruction implies that sliding the pick up to the side of the case releases the clip. This is far from the truth; it takes a pretty strong force to pop the clip open. The plastic pick is a good start, but you need to reach in and pull the middle of that side of the case pretty hard.

    dkraemer2 - 답글

  5. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 5 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 5 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 5 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • 맞은편에 이전 단계를 반복하여 여는 픽을 하단 케이스 밑에서 측면 위로 밀어서 두 번째 클립을 풀어주세요.

  6. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 6 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 6 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 6 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • 가장 중앙에 위치한 나사 구멍 두 개 중 하나 근처 하단 케이스 전면 가장자리 밑으로 여는 픽을 다시 한 번 넣으세요.

    • 픽을 단단히 비틀어 하단 케이스를 섀시에 고정하는 세 번째 클립이 풀리도록 하세요.

    • 맞은편의 가장 중앙에 위치한 나사 구멍 두 개 근처에 이 절차를 반복하여 네 번째 클립을 풀어주세요.

    Look at Step 8 pics 2 and 3 to see exactly where the clips are that need to be released. Taking the bottom cover off my MBP took for ever because I didn’t realize the clips were not right around the edges as the wording suggests. Once I realized this, it came off quickly and easily.

    Troy Reimche - 답글

  7. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 7 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 7 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 7 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • 하단 케이스를 MacBook 전면을 향해 단단히 당겨 (힌지 부분에서 멀리) 하단 케이스를 고정하는 마지막 클립을 풀어주세요.

    • 한쪽 모서리를 먼저 당긴 다음 다른 모서리를 당기세요

    • 옆으로 당기세요—위로 말고.

    • 이 작업은 많은 힘이 필요할 수 있습니다.

    On the 2018 model, there are two more clips that need to be popped on the sides in the middle. Then it slides out easily.

    Cool_Breeze - 답글

  8. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 하단 케이스 분리하기: 8 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 하단 케이스 분리하기: 8 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 하단 케이스 분리하기: 8 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • 하단 케이스를 분리하세요.

    • 하단 케이스를 다시 설치하려면:

    • 디스플레이 힌지 근처 슬라이딩 클립을 제자리에 맞추고 정렬하세요. 커버를 아래로 누르고 힌지를 향해 미세요. 클립이 맞물리면 미끄러짐은 멈춰야 합니다.

    • 슬라이딩 클립이 완전히 맞물리고 하단 케이스가 올바르게 정렬된 것처럼 보이면, 하단 케이스를 단단히 눌러 아래에있는 숨어있는 클립 네 개를 맞물리세요. 그들이 제자리에 끼워지는 것이 느껴지며 소리가 들려야 합니다.

  9. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 배터리 커넥터 드러내기: 9 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 배터리 커넥터 드러내기: 9 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • 배터리와 가장 가까운 로직 보드 가장자리에서 배터리 커넥터를 덮고있는 큰 테이프를 조심히 벗기세요.

    • 테이프를 떼어내세요.

    Please be VERY careful, I torn up my battery cable and had to replace all the battery.

    Emmanuel Neff - 답글

    Apple worked on my computer and did not put the tape back. I'm assuming it's not important?

    ronfrank - 답글

  10. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 10 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 10 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • 배터리 보드 데이터 케이블 커넥터를 덮고있는 작은 테이프 조각을 조심히 떼어내세요.

    • 테이프는 리본 케이블과 통합되어 있으며 완전히 분리되지 않습니다. 커넥터에 접근할 수 있을 만큼만 젖히세요.

    While the tape in this step was definitely attached to the ribbon cable, I accidentally pulled it off during Step 9, thinking that it was a tab to remove the larger tape covering the whole battery connector. It didn’t seem to do any harm.

    cdowney - 답글

  11. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 11 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 11 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 끝을 사용하여 케이블을 커넥터에 고정하는 작은 검정색 잠금 탭을 위로 젖히세요.

    Be very careful here. I had to repeat this procedure several times on my MacBook Pro to replace faulty monitors. Eventually, after being opened and closed so many times, the small black locking tab came right off of the connector. Now my battery connection is broken and I can only use my MacBook when it is plugged into the power supply. I’m trying to find a way to securely connect the battery cable without this little locking tab (maybe with tape or something), but so far no luck. Does anyone at iFixit have any advice for me?

    Jamie Near - 답글

    Like Jamie said, use mass amounts of caution here. The lever is very fragile, and mine came off as well - and I’m not exactly a muscular guy. Without it, the connection cannot be made to the data connector, and the computer will not think that a battery is installed. I had to finagle my connector with tweezers and a spudger back into place (and the picture above makes it look normal sized. The picture lies. It is TINY! We’re talking smaller than a small eyelash tiny), and then used some of the adhesive battery strip to hopefully keep it in place.

    Wayne Linder - 답글

    The previous comments are not exaggerated. There ain’t NOTHIN’ to that locking bar. I found it helpful to zoom in with my phone to work on it. It really requires no force to move, I imagine the tape is there to hold it down.

    William Brittain - 답글

  12. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 12 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 12 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • 배터리 보드 데이터 케이블을 소켓에서 밀어내세요.

    • 케이블 방향으로 로직 보드와 평행하게 밀어주세요.

  13. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 13 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 13 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • 배터리 보드 데이터 케이블을 옆으로 접어서 치우세요.

    The cable is held down with adhesive. Be very gentle with the delicate cable as you peel it back.

    dkraemer2 - 답글

  14. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 14 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 14 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • T5 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여 배터리 전원 커넥터를 고정하는 3.7mm 팬케이크 나사를 풀어주세요.

    Why is my screwdriver not turning even when I have the correct screwdriver and the screw is not stripped

    Jia Liu - 답글

  15. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 배터리 분리하기: 15 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 배터리 분리하기: 15 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Spudger/스퍼저를 사용하여 배터리 전원 커넥터를 살살 들어 올려 배터리를 분리하세요.

    • 커넥터가 소켓에서 떨어져 있도록 충분히 높이 들어 올리세요. 수리 도중 실수로 접촉하면 MacBook Pro를 손상할 수 있습니다.

    Dies ist kein Stecker sondern eine Kontaktplatte, die nur leicht angehoben werden muss. Dann am besten mit etwas Tesafilm isolieren.

    SchroedersKater - 답글

    (Translation for myself and others; Thanks for the nice tip by the way!) This is not a plug but a contact plate that only needs to be lifted slightly. Then it is best to isolate with some scotch tape.

    S Woo -

  16. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 트랙패드 커넥터 나사 풀기: 16 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 트랙패드 커넥터 나사 풀기: 16 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • T3 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여 트랙패드 케이블 커넥터 브래킷을 고정하는 1.8mm 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.

    You should use T4 here as T3 will strip your screw head

    Ivan Sorkin - 답글

    For me a T4 does NOT work - I needed a T3 Torx screwdriver.

    ian jeffreys - 답글

    t4 for me, better check beforehand so you don’t strip. Don’t think the box stores are going to carry these

    pauljankowiak - 답글

    The T3 works fine. Just be really careful. Keep the tool upright, maintain plenty of pressure and work slowly.

    Ross Wallace - 답글

    Why does my kit not have a t3 bit? I have p5, p5, t5 and t8

    Johnd - 답글

  17. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 17 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • 핀셋을 사용하여 트랙패드 케이블 커넥터 브래킷을 분리하세요.

  18. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 트랙패드 분리하기: 18 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 트랙패드 분리하기: 18 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Spudger/스퍼저를 사용하여 로직 보드에서 커넥터를 조심히 똑바로 들어 올려 트랙 패드 리본 케이블을 분리하세요.

    If you are removing the logic board, you can skip the rest of the trackpad removal steps. Just fold the cable back out of the way and the track pad can stay in place.

    Troy Reimche - 답글

  19. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 트랙패드 케이블 데우기: 19 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • iOpener를 준비하여 약 일 분 동안 트랙패드 리본 케이블 위에 놓고 트랙패드 리본 케이블을 배터리 상단에 고정하는 접착제를 부드럽게 하세요.

    • iOpener가 없는 경우, 헤어 드라이어를 사용하여 케이블을 데우세요. 케이블은 따뜻해야 하지만 만지기에는 너무 뜨겁지 않아야 합니다. 배터리가 과열되지 않도록 주의하세요.

  20. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 트랙패드 케이블 벗기기: 20 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 트랙패드 케이블 벗기기: 20 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 트랙패드 케이블 벗기기: 20 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • 트랙패드 리본 케이블을 배터리에서 조심히 벗기고 밀어내세요.

    • 케이블을 접거나 찢지 마세요.

    If you are changing the batter you don’t need to remove the logic board and you can jump to step 64. It can say you a lot of time. But there is one trick you need to do. It can be tricky getting the cable under the logic board but I ended up breaking the plastic “wall” that holds the centre battery and you can slide the cable in and just glue back the wall.

    ian jeffreys - 답글

    I believe at this point you skip to Step 77 if you are not using adhesive remover and not removing the logic board. Ian Jeffreys picture of the plastic "wall" is very useful.. (see comments at the end, he has the JPG posted there.)

    William Tzouris - 답글

    Can confirm to have skipped removing of track pad and logic board etc. Right after this step I started to remove the battery (no liquids, used a plastic card only). Please note that when placing the new battery you need start with the battery cable first by sliding the upper left corner of the cable under the area of the trackpad cable connector (compare with pics in step 18). Next place the battery board by lifting the battery connector to more than 90 degrees up (compare with pics in step 15). Then you need to slide the upper right of the battery cable under the area right next to the battery connector. Once the upper part of the battery cable with the battery board is set in place you can start to peel away the liner to expose the adhesive of the new battery, position the battery and set it into place too.

    Ididit - 답글

    Since I only want to remove the battery and am not using any solvents, I also skipped most of the rest of the steps after this to remove the battery. Just using some heat and a card to separate the adhesive and the bending the battery connector to get it out from under the board means you need not remove all the other stuff to protect from solvents.

    johann beda - 답글

  21. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 트랙패드 나사 풀기: 21 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 트랙패드 나사 풀기: 21 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • T5 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여 트랙패드 어셈블리를 고정하는 나사 열 개를 분리하세요:

    • 4.3mm 나사 두 개

    • 5.8mm 나사 여덟 개

    Since I only want to remove the battery and am not using any solvents, I also skipped most of the rest of the steps after this to remove the battery. Just using some heat and a card to separate the adhesive and the bending the battery connector to get it out from under the board means you need not remove all the other stuff to protect from solvents.

    johann beda - 답글

  22. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 22 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체: 22 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • 트랙패드에 접근하려면 디스플레이를 열어 젖히세요.

    • MacBook Pro 프레임의 구멍을 통해 트랙패드 리본 케이블을 조심히 연결하세요.

  23. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 트랙패드 분리하기: 23 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 트랙패드 분리하기: 23 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar Late 2016 트랙패드 교체, 트랙패드 분리하기: 23 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • 트랙패드 어셈블리를 분리하세요.

    • 트랙패드 아랫면에 있는 작은 와셔 여섯 개를 (원형 두 개 및 직사각형 네 개) 잃어버리지 않도록 주의하세요.

    This is all you have to do. Slip the battery into your machine where the old one was, run the ribbon cables from the center battery under the motherboard, run the battery data connector to its very sensitive connection to the motherboard, screw in two other screws to hold the battery “chip” in place, screw in the pancake screw and you’re good. There’s no need to remove the motherboard for this installation.

    Sean C McKean - 답글

    Why need to Remove the trackpad assembly? For what?

    Oleg Kolmak - 답글

    I wish I had read what others said here and watched other videos on youtube. This guide is a disaster. You will end up destroying your logic board. Why this idiot did it this way I can’t under stand. Thanks for nothing you &&^&. I’m having to replace my entire logic board. I could just as easily slipped the old battery cable out from under the logic board. Grrrrrrr. Your guide is $@$* and was so difficult to put everything back together. My fan runs continuously at full speed.

    Christian - 답글

    I have to agree I’m using the floss method and not removing the motherboard I did this with a 2012 and a 2013 retina MacBook Pro when changing batteries and those computers are still going strong

    William Tzouris - 답글

    I was able to remove and replace the battery without removing the logic board and easily saved half the work.

    It's not easy to get the data cables under the corners of the logic board but it you push the whole assembly to the right and get the left one under first, then carefully twist the right side under the logic board you can save about 90 minutes of work

    Practice with the old battery.

    Also: I leave the tape backing on and assemble and test first. You'd hate to have to unglue a doa battery!

    Reviving the track pad is to avoid getting the adhe adhesive remover into the track pad. It's easy enough to do I will do that step.

    awr - 답글

    Anyone has an aswer to why my touchpad is extremely sensitive? the slightest touch send it into a clicking frenzy

    daanstevens333 - 답글

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Tobias Isakeit

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댓글 2개

Great guide. Thanks for posting. One thing it assumes however, is that the replacement trackpad you’re using came with a data cable (i.e. there is no Step 23 regarding removing the data cable from the old trackpad and re-using it). I’m not sure if it’s always been this way, but the replacement trackpads iFixit sells now for this laptop do not come with a data cable. I had to re-use the data cable from the old trackpad. It wasn’t too difficult to pull the cable up and out of the connector on the old trackpad, and there is no locking tab or anything to flip up to remove it. But it was hard to get the cable back into the connector on the new trackpad with the left over adhesive and the angle of the connector. I was able to get it connected after a few careful attempts, and the trackpad works after re-assembly. Maybe in the past, the replacement trackpads iFixit sold came with a new data cable attached, but it’s worth noting that they currently do not, and you have to supply one.

cdowney - 답글

there is no locking tab or anything to flip up to remove it

Actually, the grey bar is a locking tab-the cable might work if you just pull it/shove it in, but do yourself a favor and flip it up with a spudger like other locking tabs. I tried shoving it but neither the touchpad or keyboard worked when i did that

Spider -

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