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  1. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체, 하단 케이스: 1 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • 다음 나사 열 개를 풀어주세요:

    • 14.4mm Phillips/십자 #00 나사 세 개

    • 3.5mm Phillips/십자 #00 나사 세 개

    • 3.5mm shouldered Phillips/어깨 십자 #00 나사 네 개

    • 작은 나사들을 교체할 때 약간 굽은 케이스에 수직으로 맞추세요 (똑바로 내려 가지 않습니다).

    How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

    gunes314 - 답글

    You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

    Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

    Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

    Robert Wacker - 답글

    Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

    taylornya - 답글

    I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

    rodrigosady - 답글

    I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

    Michael Wilkens -

    My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.

    jeremyyoung - 답글

    A good Phillips 00 is your friend here. Also, when reinserting the screws, gently start anticlockwise and you wil feel a click at the start of the thread. This tells you you’re in the right place and less likely to cross-thread through force in the wrong place.

    Iain Boyd - 답글

    I feel like these are 000 screws. Amazon sales describe them as such and my 000 screwdriver fits better

    cam2000deluxe -

    Before ordering a new Trackpad remove the existing battery and try clicking the Trackpad. If it clicks OK with the battery out the source of problem is likely a swollen battery, which should to be replaced even if it still works to some degree. From the side of the battery you will likely see the soft part of the battery bulging beyond the hard case.

    Patrick Langvardt - 답글

    That’s absolutely correct as I can testify. With the battery removed I also adjusted the T6 set screw that adjusts the sensitivity of the trackpad click, evidently someone had cranked mine down tighter than the factory setting.

    Gary Register -

    Le quatrième paragraphe dans les instructions en français n’est pas correct : ce ne sont pas les 2 petites vis, mais les 7 petites vis qui sont inclinées. Et les 3 grandes sont bien verticales.

    Degeorges - 답글

    Bonjour ! Merci de votre observation. J’ai corrigé la traduction. iFixit étant un wiki, n’hésitez pas à modifiez si vous remarquez une erreur :) Encore merci de votre attention et à bientôt !

    Claire Miesch -

    Tip: if you have a magnetic screw mat or similar, lay the macbook over the mat to make sure it catches any screws that may decide to fall of and hide under your table

    Moritz - 답글

  2. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 2 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 2 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • MacBook 본체 벤트 근처 하단 케이스를 손가락으로 들어올려 분리하세요.

    • 하단 케이스를 분리하세요.

  3. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체, 배터리 커넥션: 3 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체, 배터리 커넥션: 3 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Spudger/스퍼저 가장자리를 사용하여 배터리 커넥터를 로직 보드 소켓에서 위로 들어 올리세요.

    • 커넥터의 짧은 양쪽을 위로 들어 올려 소켓에서 "걸어 나오도록" 하세요. 커넥터 모서리를 조심하세요. 쉽게 끊어질 수 있습니다.

    Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

    manodh - 답글

    yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

    khull -

    Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

    aekinaka - 답글

    Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.

    Phil Wagner - 답글

    I used the nails of thumb and pointer finger simultaneously - worked pretty fine

    Reinhard Kaune - 답글

  4. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 4 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • 배터리 케이블을 로직 보드 소켓에서 약간 구부려 멀리하여 작업 도중 실수로 연결하지 않도록 하세요.

    I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

    Stephen Smith - 답글

    That's a good tip

    Anrothan -

    Great tip, I did that too

    Ahmed Mahran -

    One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

    lelandjordon - 답글

    On my MacBook Pro, the connector seems to be an integral part of the battery.

    Jerry South - 답글

    I suspect it’s just like the special screwdriver required for seatbelts on cars – to discourage regular consumers from attempting repairs. Of course, this only encourages consumers to use the wrong tool to attempt to repairs

    colleenthompson - 답글

  5. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체, AirPort/Bluetooth 어셈블리: 5 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 AirPort/Bluetooth 리본 케이블 커넥터를 로직 보드 소켓에서 들어 올리세요.

    N.B! Thank you very much all you here on iFixit! Some IMPORTANT notes. Be very careful BEFORE prying the connectors up and down. They are very fragile and the picture could actually be seen as showing a bending loading in their weakest direction, AROUND its slender axis. The connector is slender and inserted on the logic board, so the gentle "walking" up and down should be done ALONG their slender direction and WITHOUT touching the adjacent connectors. If bending is done around its axis the soldering comes apart and the cable is done and gone. Just happened. These flat cables are one of the weakest design spots in my experience. They are a major time, money and geist consuming reason for malfunction like Wi-Fi connection problems, HDD, SSD not found internally but externally from USB issues et al being found on different forums. Thanks again and again.

    Greg - 답글

  6. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 6 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • 로직 보드 소켓에서 카메라 케이블을 조심히 당기세요.

    • 케이블을 로직 보드 면과 평행하게 당기세요. 케이블을 위로 당기면 로직 보드 또는 케이블 자체를 손상할 수 있습니다.

    Be extremely careful on step 6 with late 2011 model unibody macbooks! The cable is connected very tightly to the board and has a great chance of ripping if you just pull the cable.

    Tim Rauls - 답글

    My cable is broken, have the part number or code to buy?

    VÍCTOR RIFFO - 답글

    I found there was plenty of length in the camera cable (as it goes around two sides of the optical drive) so does not need to be disconnected - just ease it out of the slot alongside the drive and lay it diagonally across.

    Nic Blinston - 답글

  7. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 7 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 7 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • 서브우퍼와 AirPort/Bluetooth 브래킷에 고정하는 접착제에서 카메라 케이블을 벗길 때 AirPort/Bluetooth 리본 케이블을 조심히 치우세요.

    • AirPort/Bluetooth 브래킷 고정장치 아래에서 카메라 케이블을 빼세요.

    Take a few phone close-ups of this corner of your system prior to disassembly. Extra photos really help during reassembly.

    airshack - 답글

  8. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 8 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 8 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 사용하여 로직 보드에서 가장 가까운 안테나 커넥터를 AirPort/Bluetooth 보드 소켓에서 들어 올리세요.

    • AirPort/Bluetooth 브래킷 고정장치 아래에서 안테나 케이블을 빼세요.

  9. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 9 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 9 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • 지난 단계에서 설명한 방법을 사용하여 나머지 안테나 커넥터 세 개를 분리하세요.

    • AirPort/Bluetooth 브래킷의 슬롯에서 케이블을 분리하십시오.

    I found re-attaching these antennae connectors the trickiest bit by far as they appear very delicate and seating them correctly was fiddly. In the end lighting them from the side with a small torch helped to check their position before gently pushing them down. The first one made a clicking sound as it connected, the other two went on silently. MBP wifi working perfectly now. I’m fairly sure that was at least £100 of labour had I taken it in for repair so thanks ifixit for saving me money and for the warm glow of accomplishment!

    Andrew - 답글

    Actually, on my repair attempt, one antenna cable broke (on the image the bottom right one in the red square), I’m not sure whether it broke already before or was morbid somehow. Fact is. suddenly I had this cable in my fingers, and was sure I completely broke the macbook and need to find a new display now.

    But as it turned out: the Mac is still fully working, including WIFI, BT, Camera etc. So apart from my huge relief, I want to address that these cables may break easily at their connection with the display. And that one antenna might be not mandatory for WIFI to work.

    huedrant - 답글

  10. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 10 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • 다음 나사 다섯 개를 풀어주세요:

    • 10.3mm Phillips/십자 나사 두 개

    • 3.1mm Phillips/십자 나사 두 개

    • 5mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개

  11. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 11 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • 광학 드라이브 옆 중앙 근처에서 AirPort/Bluetooth 어셈블리와 서브우퍼를 서로가 닿지 않을 때까지 위로 당기세요.

  12. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 12 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • 상단 케이스 모서리 가까이에 위치한 연약한 안테나 접촉을 조심하며 AirPort/Bluetooth를 분리하세요.

  13. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체, 디스플레이: 13 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • 디스플레이 오른편을 상단 케이스에 고정하는 6mm T8 Torx/톡스 나사 세 개 중 두 개를 풀어주세요.

    • 추후의 단계를 돕기 위해 디스플레이를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 나사 한 개를 남겨놓았습니다.

  14. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 14 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 14 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 14 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • 디스플레이 데이터 케이블 잠금 장치에 부착되어 있는 플라스틱 당김 탭을 잡고 컴퓨터 DC-In 방향으로 돌리세요.

    • 로직 보드 소켓에서 디스플레이 데이터 케이블을 똑바로 잡아 당기세요.

    • 소켓은 매우 약하므로 디스플레이 데이터 케이블을 들어 올리지 마세요. 케이블을 로직 보드 면과 평행하게 당기세요.

    This was the hardest part for me. It took me a bit to figure out what parts were the socket and which was the cable and where were they going to separate. What I did was gently twist the pull tab on the cable in a clockwise direction. This allowed me to see a small separation between the socket and cable. At that point I knew what side of the pull tab I had to use a little pressure on, to continue to wiggle the cable free.

    Eric Olson - 답글

    Eric Olson’s comment helped me a lot. I couldn’t figure out how to go about it until I read his comment. Thanks

    oladim - 답글

  15. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 15 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 15 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • 다음 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요:

    • 8.6mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개

    • 5.5mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개

    • 상단 케이스에서 디스플레이 데이터 케이블 고정 장치를 분리하세요.

    When putting the display case back together, I found it MUCH easier to reinsert the display cable before screwing back in the data cable retainer. It did require me angling my screwdriver to get the rightmost screw in, but it was not too difficult. It certainly made it much easier to reinsert the display cable since I had more freedom to maneuver it back into position. Hope this help others. God Bless!

    eSavior - 답글

  16. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 16 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • MagSafe DC-In 보드 근처 디스플레이 나사를 덮고 있는 폼 테이프를 분리하세요.

  17. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 17 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • 디스플레이 왼편을 상단 케이스에 고정하는 6mm T8 Torx/톡스 나사 세 개 중 두 개를 풀어주세요.

    • 추후의 단계를 돕기 위해 디스플레이를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 나사 한 개를 남겨놓았습니다.

  18. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 18 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • 디스플레이가 상단 케이스와 수직이 되도록 MacBook Pro를 여세요.

    • 열린 MacBook Pro를 그림처럼 테이블에 놓으세요.

    • 디스플레이와 상단 케이스를 왼손으로 잡고 하단 디스플레이 브래킷에서 나머지 T8 Torx/톡스 나사를 풀어주세요.

    I have found that keeping the MacBook more open than you’d think is the key to getting this step right. Initially I opened the lid only about 50º or so, but couldn’t free the hinges from the case even after removing the final two screws. Opening the lid to about 90º has made this much easier, and means the hinges come free without catching on the rest of the body of the Mac.

    Kit Marsden - 답글

  19. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 19 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • 디스플레이와 상단 케이스를 왼손으로 함께 잡으세요. 그렇지 않으면 분리한 디스플레이/상단 케이스가 떨어져서 각 부품을 손상할 수 있습니다.

    • 디스플레이를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 마지막으로 남은 T8 Torx/톡스 나사를 풀어주세요.

  20. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 20 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 20 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 디스플레이 교체: 20 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • 상단 케이스를 오른손으로 잡고 디스플레이 상단쪽으로 약간 돌려 상단 디스플레이 브래킷이 상단 케이스의 가장자리에 걸리지 않도록 하세요.

    • 디스플레이를 약간 돌려 상단 케이스에서 떨어지도록 하세요.

    • 브래킷 또는 케이블이 걸릴 수 있음을 염두하고 디스플레이를 상단 케이스에서 위로 들어 올리세요.

    I used this guide to tighten the hinges; screen was all wobbly because the four screws that hold the screen in place had worked themselves loose. Surprised that getting at the screws required the full removal of the display. One thing that's helpful in putting it all together is in regard to adjusting the position of the hinges; with the screws loose, there is a lot of play in the hinges, and if you just torque them down, the lid won't fit right. I snugged up the screws then put the display back in place on the body & inserted one screw into each side, then loosened the hinge screws to align the screen. That has to happen before replacing the black plastic cover over the bottom edge of the display.

    davidgthornton - 답글

    My Macbook Pro developed a severe wobble in the display so I took it in to the Genius bar to see what could be done. They told me that fixing it would involve replacing the whole display because the problem is due to a piece of plastic inside breaking off. I suspected it just needed to have the hinge screws tightened so I brought my laptop home and gave it a go using this guide. Well, it turns out I was right! The Torx screws joining the hinges to the the display had come loose at both sides. To fix this, I got the hinges lined up straight on the display and tightened them down. To attatch the hinges to the body, I tightened one screw on each side half way and closed the display to line it up with the body. I then proceeded then to tighten all of the Torx screws on the body. Thank you for the great guide, Philip! I love this site!

    gilded yak - 답글

    Might be a dumb question but can I swap screens from a broken MacBook Pro to the my working one (both same model)

    Manny 3s - 답글

    Yes, you can

    maccentric -

    When separating the display, be crazy careful with those tiny WiFi antenna wires you undid in step 9. One of mine came apart with almost no force whatsoever. If you do break one, reroute them when reassembling so that ports J0 and J2 on the Airport card have good connections. That’ll retain your laptop’s ability to connect to 5GHz WiFi if you’re unable to replace the entire antenna assembly.

    Taylor Rhodes - 답글

    I’ve made the replacement following each step, everything went well except when I turn on the Mac, I can see light in the screen it actually starts all clear in white light, but then it gets dark. The computer is working well I use a external monitor connected with a HDMI adaptor, but the Macbook monitor just doesn’t work, I checked the Flex cable, it is working good, camera, sound, wifi, everything.

    I don’t know what else to try. Could it be possible I just broke the mother board connection with the LCD?? Please help!

    Eunice SP - 답글

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Andrew Bookholt

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Note that the 2011 version differs from previous models at the connectors on the antenna end opposite to the display cable. Do not attempt to buy a complete display from prior models.

khull - 답글

Although this guide a difficulty rating I wasn't sure how long it would take a fairly adept novice to complete the R&R of the display. I took my time and did the tear down in 1 hour. I separated the fasteners by placing each section on a loop of tape above the work. The replacement of the new display took me about 2 hours. As the guide says it was just the tear down in reverse. Things that added to the replacement were getting the first 2 screws aligned and in place; re-routing the antenna and camera cables and making sure the camera cable socket connector was in correctly. The good news is it worked on the first power-up. Great guide.

Bob G - 답글

Can I use a 2011 Display with a 2009 (mid) MacBook pro?

Simon - 답글

Unfortunately no, they are not interchangeable.

Sam Omiotek -

Does the display come with the back cover included. I don't know the correct name for the part. I just mean the silver cover with the apple thingy in it.

Andrea Beck - 답글

No but you can buy that piece from PowerBook medic it is called the display housing

sean gyimah -

Is it possible to install a retina display screen on my early 2011 macbookPro Unibody?

Thanks!

Uri Shilo - 답글

No, it is not a reasonable possibility to install a retina display on a non-retina MacBook. The assemblies are very different.

Lance J -

Great guide. Snagged an A- used from eBay for $150, December 2016 and installed in about 45 minutes. Thanks.

ericmatthew86 - 답글

I used this guide to fix my Early 2011 MacBook Pro's wobbly screen. I took it into the Apple store, where a Genius took a look under the hood and told me the "Clutch is snapped," and that not only would it cost ~$500 to fix, but because the laptop is so old Apple won't do repairs anymore for it. When I took it apart, I could see that just a tiny part of the black plastic mechanism underneath the clutch cover was broken which did contribute to the wobble. I tightened the hinge screws and used Threadlocker Blue on them, and then used an automotive adhesive from Ace Hardware on the broken plastic piece. The wobble is gone and my MacBook is now fully functional once again!

Drew Dittmann - 답글

I used this guide to tighten a loose display, and it worked great. The guide is very thorough, so if you follow it step by step you should have no problem. The hardest part was disconnecting the display cable from the socket on the board. Other than that go slow, take your time, and you should be fine.

Eric Olson - 답글

Can use it to replace Mid 2014 MacBook Pro?

Michael * I’m Trying - 답글

It is possible to replace just the glass? How do I do it?

Thanks

Jose Bucci Casari - 답글

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