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소개

Use this guide to replace a blown-out left speaker.

  1. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement, Lower Case: 1 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws

    • When replacing the small screws, align them perpendicular to the slight curvature of the case (they don't go straight down).

  2. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 2 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 2 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.

    • Remove the lower case.

  3. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement, Battery Connection: 3 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement, Battery Connection: 3 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.

  4. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 4 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

  5. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement, Fan: 5 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement, Fan: 5 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement, Fan: 5 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Use the edge of a spudger to gently pry the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

    • The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.

  6. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 6 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the logic board:

    • One 7.2 mm T6 Torx screw

    • Two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws

  7. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 7 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Lift the fan out of its recess in the logic board, minding its cable that may get caught.

  8. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement, Logic Board: 8 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement, Logic Board: 8 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the upper case.

    • Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to lift the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

  9. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 9 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Disconnect the camera cable from the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Pulling the cable upward may damage the logic board or the cable itself.

  10. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 10 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 10 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Disconnect the following four cables:

    • AirPort/Bluetooth cable

    • Optical drive cable

    • Hard drive cable

    • Trackpad cable

    • To disconnect the cables, use the flat end of a spudger to pry their connectors up from the sockets on the logic board.

  11. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 11 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 11 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 11 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

    • The cable may be difficult to insert. If you are having trouble, temporarily attach a piece of tape to the cable to help you guide the cable into the socket.

  12. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 12 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • If present, remove the small strip of black tape covering the keyboard backlight cable socket.

  13. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 13 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 13 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 13 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

  14. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 14 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the sleep sensor/battery indicator connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  15. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 15 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 15 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 15 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

  16. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 16 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove the following nine screws:

    • Five 3.6 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 4.3 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 7.2 mm T6 Torx screws

    • In some models the screws may be slightly shorter as follows:

    • Five 3.0 mm T6 screws

    • Two 3.6 mm T6 screws

    • Two 6.7 mm T6 screws

  17. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 17 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 17 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Remove the following two screws:

    • One 8.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 5.5 mm Phillips screw

    • Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.

  18. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 18 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Use the tip of a spudger to gently peel the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

  19. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 19 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Minding the many connectors near its edges, lift the logic board from the end nearest the optical drive.

    • Without flexing the board, maneuver it out of the upper case, minding the flexible connection to the DC-In board that may get caught in the upper case.

    • Remove the logic board.

  20. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement, Left Speaker: 20 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • De-route the microphone cable from its slot molded into the left speaker enclosure.

  21. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 21 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove the small piece of black tape covering the left speaker connector.

  22. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 22 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

  23. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Left Speaker Replacement: 23 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Carefully pry the left speaker off the foam adhesive securing it to the logic board.

    • Remove the left speaker.

결론

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

다른 21명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.

Andrew Bookholt

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댓글 4개

General - the reason you are reading this guide may well be that you blew you speakers after installing 'Boom' from the App Store.

All I can say is, don't install it a second time!

Others, be warned! If you use Boom, just use it at the lowest volume you can. Looks like they don't replace speakers.

Or better, don't install it at all.

Stuart.

Stuart - 답글

You're right, Boom only enjoyable when using headphone, but it also kill internal speaker especially the mini internal subwoofer

Athaariq Ardiansyah Ramadhani -

You are right, but in my case it was VLC, I pushed the volume up to 200% and same result happened as you said of Boom, a speaker is blown.. LoL. So, same thing goes here, don't use VLC higher volume than 100%.

Faisal Saleh -

ottima guida

con un pò di pazienza si ottiene un ottimo risultato

grazie

davide artisan - 답글

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