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MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement

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  1. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement, Lower Case: 1 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.0 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

    To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

    lantzero - 답글

    The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

    Sam Goldheart -

    Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.

    Mike -

    Just be careful to store the 2 shorter screws in a seperate space then the other 3mm screws.

    The first time I opened up my Macbook, I put the screws in the wrong order.

    Shahzad Arif -

    Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

    didierma - 답글

    If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

    iyeori - 답글

    It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

    floyd - 답글

    Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

    Emilio Mejia - 답글

    I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!

    Alvaro Suarez - 답글

    Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!

    Jose David Valle -

    Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything

    Bert0ld0 -

    Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017

    Walt Goede - 답글

    Not sure if this has been listed.

    PRO TIPS from a non-pro:

    1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.

    2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…

    3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).

    4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!

    5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!

    erin - 답글

    Do we remove the logic board purely to get the speaker enclosures out and away from the acetone? Or does it physically block getting the batteries out? Ie. if I wanted to risk the damage to the speakers, could I jump straight to step 34?

    Obviously I don’t want to melt the speakers, but I’m kinda weighing that risk against losing a screw or breaking a connector…

    Michael Ferenduros - 답글

    So I did take the risk and swapped out the battery without doing the logic-board + speaker removal.

    Before applying the acetone I put tape on the exposed sides of the speaker-enclosures as best I could - I wrapped the tape, sticky side out, around a card, slid it into the gap, and pressed it onto the speakers. And when applying the acetone, I squirted it as gently as possible onto the side of the battery and let it run down the side, which seemed to help avoid getting too much on the speakers.

    The speaker’s plastic turned white in the spots where the acetone touched it, but it looked like surface damage only. Otherwise it was a nice and smooth procedure.

    Your milage may vary, obviously.

    Michael Ferenduros -

    I changed the battery pack as well without removing the logic board etc. It helped, that the batteries already were swollen, thus access to the glue stripes was easier. It works, if you give a little tension, pulling a pack upwards, and then work with a small blade or knife, and cut the glue stripes. It may take a while, but much less time than dismantling the whole macbook. If you don’t hurry, and don’t apply too much force, you will not damage anything. Beside the 10 cover screws you only have to loose 2 screws for the battery connector. After removing the old pack I used Methanol to remove the glue. I prefer this solvent to Acetone, because it’s less or not harmful to plastic (however, no warranty, just my personal experience). I was able to finish the work in 40 minutes, although it was the first time I opened my Macbook. Well, I am an engineer, that helps, but with dismantling all boards it definitely would have taken double the time. And more risks to break a plug or make a mistake while reassembling.

    Heinrich Jung -

    Success. I needed to replace the right speaker. I thought I was ready at step 22 (you are able to replace the left speaker at this point… but but the right) To replace the right I continued thru step 29 but didn’t completely remove the motherboard. I just lifted it enough to remove and replace the right speaker cable.

    Read all of the comments and solved many problems. Thanks to I-fixit, Walter Galen and all who posted comments.

    Will Brecht - 03/02/2019

    Will Brecht - 답글

    1/2

    If you're taking the shortcut (nylon, wire…and no adhesive for battery removal (you'll def need to remove the adhesive once the battery pack is removed) things to note:

    1 The adhesive may still be pretty strong. Mine was and I broke several wires trying to do the cheese cutter move down the back of the middle two batteries

    2 if you're cheese cutting through the adhesive, when you get to the base, don't go too far. I did and severed the battery cell connector… disconcerting puff of smoke.

    Ruairi Kennedy - 답글

    If you get a puff of smoke removing a bad battery which is going to be replaced it really doesn’t matter, its being replaced.

    robert -

    2/2

    3 the you tube video dude was lucky not to have his two Central batteries adhered . Mine were stuck fast.

    4 don't forget about the two small T 5 screws to the left and right of the battery head board, just below the main battery connector.

    5 the Track Pad sits behind the two central batteries. The batteries are adhered to a flat plate that protects the Track Pad which is pretty resilient. You can do the cheese wire trick without cutting through anything you shouldn't. However be careful if you're using a spudger or other tool between the two centre batteries at the top of the T. This is where the Track Pad connector (its very flat and exposed) to the motherboard.

    6 seems obvious when it's written , but you will need the adhesive remover if you are interested in removing the adhesive. It's a work out.

    Ruairi Kennedy - 답글

    I just completed this successfully. The guide was great, and I recommend reading each of the steps’ comments, too. It is possible to cut out a majority of the steps outlined here if you’d rather not dismantle most of your laptop. As I’m a novice and this was the first difficult fix I’d ever tried, the idea of taking so many things apart — including removing the logic board — was a little scary. Everyone calculates risk and reward differently, but for me, the risk of removing the logic board for the reward of being able to remove the battery packs with adhesive remover was too great, so I opted to only do steps 1–4, 42–53 and removed the battery with one of the cards from iFixit’s kit. If you go this route, expect it to be a little frustrating & slow going — it took me around 20–30 minutes of slowly chipping away at the adhesive with only the card. There are other techniques out there (wire, fishing line, etc.) and I’d advise looking into them. Keep track of screws: tape, draw out diagrams, label them, etc.

    Jake Thornberry - 답글

    I only removed the 10 screws and the back panel, the 5 speaker’s screws (without removing the speakers), and the two battery screws, and managed to remove the battery package without undoing anything else. I used a member card (credit card type) to loosen the adhesives under the batteries.

    To remove the rest of the glue, I soaked it with something called Label Off from Biltema (Nordic). Finally, I used methylated spirit (rødsprit) to clean it all up and let it dry for 5 minutes before assembling the new battery pack.

    Andreas H. Parlow - 답글

    I have now replaced the battery and the dc-in board, and I still can’t get the battery to charge. I also bought a new magsafe power adapter. It appears all cables are connected, and the computer runs fine on the battery (until it runs out of juice, then I will be at a complete loss). No clue what to try next. Any suggestions? Thanks!

    matt rogers - 답글

    Why do you need to remove the entire logic board??? Seems like if you detach the appropriate cables, remove the speakers, that that should be enough. Removing the entire board doesn’t seem necessary - what am I missing?

    Sandwah - 답글

    What on earth are you talking about? This has nothing to do with the logic board.

    Trevor Picard -

    The speaker cables are routed under the logic board, or at least the right-side one is. I found that if you can undo the fastenings on one side of the logic board you MIGHT be able to lever it up and work the speaker wire out without taking the entire thing out.

    bobthrollop.redirect -

    MacBook Pro 15“ 2014:

    if the keyboard is connected nothing works. I disconnected the keyboard and the MacBook was starting automatically. An external usb keyboard is not working either. Is something on the logic board defective or is this failure (usb keyboard not working) because of the disconnected keyboard and the system is confused?

    any idea for this?

    ps: the battery is loading

    Pättes - 답글

    MacBook Pro 15” Mid 2012

    I had the exact same symptom upon initial completion. The keyboard ribbon is actually 2 pieces on mine. There is a plastic cover sheet (that I tried to use as the ribbon the first time) and then there is the actual ribbon sheet. The keyboard works perfectly now that I have the actual ribbon sheet inserted into the the ZIF connector.

    It took entirely too long. I was being very careful. Recovery of the keyboard took me less than an hour. I don’t want to admit how long the original work took me.

    I hope you already have yours working. I was very careful due to not having an alternate device for my son to use if the work had failed. The other likely point of failure for the keyboard is damage to the ribbon as it goes under the battery pack. I caught myself almost poking too hard on that spot.

    EEM -

    You should more clear explain that it is possible to skip the steps 5-35 in the beginning explanation text.

    ( I lost many time to remove parts and there is also more risk to destroy some connectors ?‍♂️)

    Muescha - 답글

    Like many others here, I completed the battery replacement by skipping steps 5-52 and instead removing the battery cells with the “cheese cutter” method. I made my cutter from 20# braided monofilament tied to two 4” wooden dowels (3/8” diameter). I carefully applied 97% isopropyl alcohol to the taut mono with a small artist’s brush. I took my sweet time cutting through the glue, but all in all not too difficult, just tedious. I was super careful and mindful of the fire and explosion hazard, and took necessary precautions. One thing to be careful of using the cheese cutter method is to be sure the mono is is really under the cell package and not just in front of it before sawing away. There are some tight spaces that make this tricky. Once the battery was out I used the iFixit acetone to clean up the glue leftover by carefully applying drops on the strips and letting capillary action take over. After waiting about five minutes, the glue strips could be picked up with the supplied tweezers.

    Acme Nerd Games - 답글

    Hallo Leute, hab das Akku eben erfolgreich bei meinem MacBook getauscht ohne alles vorher auszubauen. WICHTIG: kein ACETON zum Kleber lösen verwenden! Sonst gehen die Lautsprecher kaputt! Auch kein Orangenpower oder ähnliches! Man nehme sich ein dünnes hochzugfestes Nylonband (oder Zahnseide geht auch) und schneide damit die alten Klebepads sägebandmäßig los.

    Also:

    In der Hoffnung mich so klar wie möglich auszudrücken war das Folgende meine Vorgehensweise:

    1. Deckel ab, Achtung die Schrauben mittig unterm Bildschirm sind kürzer!

    2. Akkustecker trennen und vorsichtig umbiegen

    3. die 2 Schrauben, die die Batterie in der Nähe des Steckers halten losschrauben

    4. nun mit zugfestem Band die Akkus rausschneiden

    die im Fix-Kit beigelegten Spatel können dabei unterstützen

    die übrigbleibenden Klebereste können einfach mit einem der Plastikwerkzeuge abgemacht werden: erst ein bisschen mit einem Spatel vorarbeiten, sodass man es mit seinen Fingen greifen kann, dann langsam und Richtung weg vom Logikboard vorsichtig abziehen.

    Jérôme Achilles - 답글

    Was dann noch an Kleberesten übrigbleibt, kann wegen mir auch bleiben. Sonst mit 1-2 Tropfen Lösemittel auf ein Microfasertuch geduldig nach und nach wegwischen. Und Wirklich nur WENIGE TROPFEN verwenden! Sonst gehen die Lautsprecher wohlmöglich kaputt.

    5. Mithilfe von Druckluft (2-3 bar! nur) nun sämtlichen Staub vorsichtig rausblasen. VORSICHT: Die Lüfter dürfen sich dabei nicht drehen! Die erzeugen sonst Spannung und grillen wohlmöglich das Logikboard!

    6. Neues Akku (Folien dabei vom Akku entfernen) reinsetzen und gleich an die Schraubenlöcher ausrichten.

    7. Die 2 Schrauben für die Batterie reinschrauben und mit Gefühl anziehen.

    Die packs einzeln auf ihren richtigen Sitz hin prüfen

    8. Wenn alles sauber ist und alles richtig sitzt, dann den Batteriestecker wieder auf das Logikboard stecken

    9. Deckel drauf. Der Deckel muss von alleine, ohne Schrauben richtig in seiner Ausfräsung liegen. Steht irgendeine Ecke hoch, ist darunter was verkehrt.

    Jérôme Achilles - 답글

    10. Deckel festschrauben. ACHTUNG: 2 Schrauben sind kürzer auf der Seite des Bildschirms!

    Missverständnisse kann ich nicht ausschließen. Darum folgt ihr dieser Anleitung bitte nur auf eigenes Risiko. Ich übernehme keine Haftung für Schäden! Viel Erfolg!

    Jérôme Achilles - 답글

    Hi guys, just successfully replaced the battery on my MacBook without removing everything first. IMPORTANT: do not use ACETON to loosen the glue! Otherwise, the speakers will be broken! Also no orange power or similar! Take a thin high-tensile nylon tape (or dental floss also works) and cut the old adhesive pads loose. Similarly as with a saw tape.

    So:

    Hoping to express myself as clearly as possible, the following was my procedure:

    1. remove the lid, beware that the screws in the center under the screen are shorter!

    2. disconnect the battery connector and carefully bend it over

    3. unscrew the 2 screws that hold the battery near the plug

    4. now cut out the batteries with tension-proof tape

    the spatulas included in the fix-kit can help you to do this

    the remaining glue can be easily removed with one of the plastic tools: first work a little bit with a spatula so that you can grip it with your fingers, then slowly and carefully pull it off in a direction away from the logic board.

    Jérôme Achilles - 답글

    Whatever glue remains can stay because of me. Otherwise, patiently wipe away little by little with 1-2 drops of solvent on a microfiber cloth. And really only use FEW DROPS! Otherwise, the speakers may break.

    Now carefully blow out all dust with compressed air (2-3 bar! only). CAUTION: The fans must not rotate! Otherwise, they will generate voltage and possibly fry the logic board!

    Insert the new battery ( thereby remove the foils from the battery) and align it to the screw holes. 7.

    Screw in the 2 screws for the battery and tighten them with feeling.

    Check the packs individually for proper fit

    8. if everything is clean and everything fits correctly, put the battery connector back on the logic board.

    9. put the lid on. The cover must lie correctly in its groove by itself, without screws. If any corner is sticking up, there is something wrong underneath.

    Jérôme Achilles - 답글

    10. screw the cover. ATTENTION: 2 screws are shorter on the side of the screen!

    I cannot exclude misunderstandings. Therefore, please follow these instructions only at your own risk. I assume no liability for damages! Good luck!

    Jérôme Achilles - 답글

    Another vote for skipping step 34 after step 4. When I tried to reinstall the new battery, I couldn't get the two step 34 screw holes lined up and still be able to connect the battery cable, so I just left them out. Also, one of the bottom cover screws went AWOL.


    I think that anyone with a badly swollen battery can skip to 34 because the battery has already done a lot of the work. I doubt that I used more than a dozen drops of remover, if that. A bit of patience and careful work with dental floss did the trick. Maybe 30-40 minutes to get the old battery out and another 10 to peel off the remaining adhesive.

    schendel - 답글

    Like most have suggested here, definitely read through all of these comments! I learned valuable tips from other commenters above that made this repair easy. Also like many others here, I opted to skips the majority of steps, and instead focused on steps 1-4, 36-53. When removing the small screws from the back plate, make sure to keep them organized and away from the computer. Because they are slightly magnetic, one of the tiny top middle screws magnetized to the MagSafe charger port my my Mac and I spent 20 minutes thinking it fell on the floor.

    I had a nylon thread handy to get some of the packs started. Even with applying the adhesive remover, I found the plastic card iFixit provides was not always strong enough to get the pack started. Cheese cutter method was all it needed to get started!

    Make sure to elevate your Mac when applying the remover in whatever direction you want the remover to run. Make sure to test new battery before committing to the new adhesive in case it is faulty!

    Good luck!

    Patrick King - 답글

    At step 9, when reinstalling the io board cable, make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all. It took me hours to find my mistake...

    Pierre Arnaud - 답글

    This is just a suggestion or two to help those that might be doing this for the first time.

    1. Separate your screws by the component they came from, i.e. cover screws altogether, fan screws altogether etc. I used PostIt notes turned upside down and put the screws head down to hold them in place and then marked what they were and where they came from.

    2. If you have enough work space put the component next to the screws that were removed. Then you have everything located for an easy reinstall.

    Steve Rowe - 답글

    The photographs in this guide show two slightly different MacBook Pro 15" Retina machines being disassembled, probably because the guide has multiple authors, and there is a subtle but very important difference between them. Look at the photo in Step 55. This shows the old battery being lifted out of the machine, it has six cells, and the battery connector is located in the centre of the top edge of the battery between cells 3 and 4. Now look at the photo in Step 3. This shows a battery connector which is offset by about 3cm and is above cell 4, not between cells 3 and 4. I believe the offset battery connector is from a mid 2012-early 2013 MacBook and the central battery connector is from a late 2013-mid 2014 MacBook. This is important because if you have the wrong battery, it won't work because the connector won't reach the socket. I found this out to my cost when I bought a battery which the seller told me was the right one, it turned out to be the wrong one, and then I couldn't return it.

    Peter Gray - 답글

  2. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 2 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

    • Set the lower case aside.

    Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

    jamiegan835 - 답글

    I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.

    Tim Peat -

    I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

    This is a "PC" habit.

    On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

    I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

    Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

    crus - 답글

    Hey,

    Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..

    Regards

    Jose David Valle -

    This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.

    Andrew Fox -

    I was able to remove all screws but lower case is not comming off easly. Is it glued to somthing?

    Thanks for help.

    c4rlosv8 - 답글

    There are two clips in the centre which simply unclip with a little force.

    Tim Peat -

    If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.

    auntialias - 답글

    There are a couple of small rectangular magnets (~ 1/2” long) that are sitting in pockets near the battery warning label. (One is visible in the Step 3 pic.) One of these left its pocket and was stuck to the bottom cover when I lifted it.

    Jon Scott - 답글

    i had no idea my battery was swollen until i opened the back case to replace it. the back popped up right away on its own as soon as i took the screws out.

    elyze - 답글

  3. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement, Battery Connector: 3 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.

    For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

    iyeori - 답글

    Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?

    g000phy - 답글

    Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.

    max damage -

    This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.

    One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.

    Hope that helps!!

    ~the more you know~

    Colin Devenney - 답글

    I did not peel back the sticker. It is probably there to help unplug the battery. You can apply a gentle constant pull while you use spudger to lift the battery connector out of the socket as per the next step. It made this very easy.

    Achilles - 답글

    I've found that it's actually better to NOT remove the sticker. I wish I had skipped that 'peel off the sticker part' ugh

    Miles Raymond -

    There is another connector here on mine, just to the left and up above the text on the battery sticker. It is an empty ZIPF socket on all these photos.

    Richard C - 답글

    Let me stop you guys here. You can skip steps 5-35.

    That’s what I did without a problem.

    Go directly to step 35 after the next step. 5-35 is only so you have more room to pry the old battery off.

    If you are not keeping the old battery, then just pry it off with a flathead screwdriver.

    This is not a difficult fix.

    Chris - 답글

    Chris,

    Thank you for providing the advise to skip several steps. I agree that you will have ample space to remove the old battery without removing everything else. I would like to provide a small correction in your directions. You will need to go to step 34 to remove the two screws holding the battery cable versus directly to step 35. You will not be able to completely remove the battery without this step.

    Laurence Rooks -

    I successfully followed all the instructions and all the steps in this guide. I installed the new battery successfully. However, looking back at the process now, I have no idea why I had to take out the memory, air card, speakers, fans, and motherboard to change the battery. None of that was necessary. I did it, and it worked out for me, but honestly, if you just want the battery out, do what Chris and Laurence said above me. Go straight to step 34.

    matthew.toledo - 답글

    Again, that label will loose its stickyness... order B09WMWH3LM from Amazon so you can reglue - a little smear on both parts, let it dry a few seconds and join them. Done. ... a little will go a long way.

    Alex De Lara - 답글

    I agree that this entire procedure is unnecessarily complex, unless you’d like to disassemble your entire laptop for the sheer fun of it. The point of all the disassembly is to avoid damage to other components from the adhesive remover. So what I did was not to pry at all, no leverage whatsoever, no strain on the battery cells. Instead, I simply slid the provided plastic scraper cards underneath the batteries from every side possible to begin removing the adhesive. Then I put one drop of the remover on each side of the card at the front edge so it was barely wet, slid it in and worked it deeper bit by bit…. When I got near the speakers, I pulled the screws, lifted them slightly, and wedged one of the picks under the long arm coming off each speaker to give it a few mm clearance from the case, so no remover/alcohol could wick underneath. That worked well for me; the hardest part was getting all the old adhesive off the case, which just took some careful soaking. Good luck! .

    Tor Matson - 답글

  4. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 4 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 4 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

    I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!

    Joel Replogle - 답글

    So no need basically to unscrew all the mac

    Bert0ld0 -

    The best tool for battery removal for any glued in Apple batteries is a 6" PLASTIC puddy knife 1.5" or 1" in width. It is strong. It has a bit of a sharp edge to cut the glue. It is long enough to slide all the way from top to bottom on the middle cells and from the side to get the 2nd from the right and 2nd from the left out. Wear gloves doing this and eye protection. I've use the Nylon twine method also without removing the logic board, but that is a pain to get started. I just take the screws of of the speaker, lift them up, don't remove and go to work with the puddy knife.

    Chapman Gleason -

    Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.

    REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.

    Jer - 답글

    I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.

    Thomas Horan - 답글

    Couldn't agree more: use a wire to cut the glue. No need to remove anything else (I did remove the SSD for peace of mind). I used a thin metal wire, without the help of adhesive remover, wrapping it around two sticks to hold it (as pulling with your fingers is painful!). Took longer to clean the residue than to cut the glue!

    I'm not so mad with Apple's repairability considering that this method is viable.

    Eric Rannaud -

    Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.

    James Suojanen - 답글

    I too found the need to completely teardown the laptop onerous and risky. I’m not certified in anything hardware but I’ve been doing my own repairs for a while. I watched the video referenced above and read the comments there. With some changes, here is what I did, which worked perfectly and minimized the risk, for a whole additional $3 in parts, just myself and in under an hour:

    1. Go to hardware store and get 2 4” bolts ($1 each) and a coil of 20 gauage galvanized wire.

    2. Wrap one end of the wire a few times around one bolt, then tie it off with a knot. Do the same with the other bolt, leaving about 10” of wire between the two.

    3. Follow steps 1-4 in this guide

    4. Slip the wire under one of the outer batteries (use a card or spudger to help get the wire underneath

    5. Grip both bolts with one hand and rock them back and forth, pulling the wire under the battery, using your other hand to hold the case. This should take about 2 seconds (seriously). Repeat for other outer batteries

    (continued)

    steve - 답글

    6. Pull the plastic frames away from the left and right sides of the center batteries.

    7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the two center batteries.

    8. Jump to step 55, then reassemble.

    Note: when installing the new battery, ensure the part closest to you is UNDER the two plastic tabs.

    Worked perfectly.

    Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...

    Note: using the nylon thread with that much effort is crazy. Use the wire or fishing line.

    steve - 답글

    cool.

    removed everything and have now 88% after 2 times calibrating and smc reset

    wouldn’t have liked to do everything again, but this seems like a possible solution :)

    Dennis Britsch -

    i just got my Kit and started the procedure, i decided to try if i can get the bulged batteries out with a fishing line, which worked fine. No need to use any solvent and even not too much force was needed to get the line under the batteries. I was able to remove the batteries in about 5min, used another 10min to clean the case from the residue, and put in the new battery. All togehter about 20min of work. I´m very happy with the result, Macbook stays now back on its feet, closes correctly and trackpad works as expected.

    manu - 답글

    Also departed from procedure immediately after STEP # 4 as per JOEL’s recommendation …used a small chunk of fishing line and it worked sans solvent…easily ! Spudger worked quite well to initially position the string /line & the ifixit ( ‘credit’ ) cards were nice for final dislodging of each battery segment from the last bits of residual gooey adhesive , AFTER working the fishing line back & forth down the length of the battery as much as possible. With the old battery out of the way, I used a razor blade to clean out the remaining bits of adhesive gunk. ( Decided NOT to use solvent here, either.) Took me every bit of 1-hour.

    One thing that helped ,too, was a cheap pair of cotton gloves coated on the palm side w/ latex. This kept my fingers comfortable from the pressure of the fishing line & allowed more of a range of force …since I wasn’t wincing from saw-cutting myself !

    John Joslin - 답글

    I skipped steps 5-33. These steps are completely unnecessary. I used the back of a flat tweezers to separate the battery from the case.

    support64 - 답글

    so the only reason they are taking all the stuff off before the battery is because of the solvent?

    I used cards and dental floss and just took the battery out … It was a pain in the butt but i got it out with out using the solvent remover solution.

    GR Verner - 답글

    I skipped steps from 5 to 33 and directlychanged the battery (before disassembling all). Worked fine.

    derdietrich - 답글

    I also skipped all the additional disassembly. I used cards and wire to cut through the adhesive quite easily. I also did not apply any tape on the new battery. The Mid-2014 laptop seems slim and tight enough to keep the cells from moving and the two screws at the power connector area seem to stabilize the connection and battery as a whole. Such STRONG tape seems unwarranted for the amount of squirm room in such a tight compartment.

    P.S. Remember, while you have it open, clean, clean, clean!!!

    jyee - 답글

    Speaking of the power connector screws, I accidentally screwed down the R speaker flat cable on reassembly, which caused the speaker to malfunction. On finding that, I re-routed slightly and the speaker worked fine, this time, but I recommend being extra careful with that cable when putting things back together. You really do have to remove most everything to replace speakers!

    WillUseSpudger -

    Thanks guys for all the tips. I followed the pragmatic way of cutting short and really taking battery out only. Thanks to the cards it worked well and none of the liquid made it to any other part of the computer. Put some efforts in to properly clean the remaining glue after battery was out - but looked good and this message comes from the old mid 2012 15” Retina modell - but with the new battery in - and all is fine. I am happy - thanks to the short cut encouragement.

    Jochen Färber - 답글

    Also skipped steps from 5 to 32. I used the supplied cards and a piece of string, i.e. braided nylon twine, (thickness 24). and used supplied acetone sparingly, mostly to the middle section. It took one and a half hours and another half hour or so for removing the leftover goo. It was demanding but not challenging, just take it slow and steady.

    jkobli - 답글

    Learnt a lot from former comments. Also skipped steps from 5 to 54. Used fishing line to cut through adjective by myself easily, but needed to put on glove to protect hands. I didnt order full package, so used nail polish remover and eraser to clean the base. Looks good and all is fine! Thanks to the short cut method!

    Gerry GU - 답글

    If you decide to skip to Step 34 or 52 or whatever, at least take note of Step 50. This is the only place I saw reference to the thin metal plate protecting the trackpad. I also skipped to just pulling out the batteries, but this plate came out with the them. I had to carefully pry it off the old batteries, reinstall it, and clean the adhesive residue off it.

    Also, YMMV, but I did not bother with delicately removing the old batteries with fishing line, loosening with solvent, or whatever. They’re going in the trash (ahem, recycling) anyway, so I pried them out with a screwdriver, using the neighboring cell as a fulcrum. 98% of the adhesive remained with the batteries, leaving very little residue in the case.

    Jon Scott - 답글

    I also forwent the many steps to protect components from the isopropyl alcohol. Blocking the back of the computer up an inch or so meant that any spill would run down and away from the logic board, which actually helped loosen the adhesive. I felt that disconnecting so many parts was a greater risk with no real benefit so long as care was employed in the use of the alcohol. Using some twine in a sawing motion behind each battery got through the adhesive without trauma. The entire repair was actually very simple and fast. The toolkit is excellent and well worth buying from iFixit. The machine is now working really well again. Worth fitting a new SSD now.

    Simon Morice - 답글

    Info for assembly: you have place it from top into to connector - watch out for the guidegroove/pimple .

    Not horizontal from battery side (as it seems my first try)

    Muescha - 답글

    Success! I ordered the whole kit and thought I would do all these steps below. But instead I just unplugged the battery and skipped all the steps up to step 36. For getting loose the old glued in battery I used waxed dental floss, it is strong and easily available. I strung it around two wood pieces and wired it around the underside of the batteries, then slowly pulled it downwards till the end. This worked quite well and after 10 minutes all the 6 batteries were free. Now the ‘fun’ part, cleaning up the old adhesive strips. I used the little bottle of alcohol from the kit but found this not the best cleaning solution. Be warned, dont forget that in this position, directly under your downpressing fingers there is the glass trackpad and the display!! I really was scared to break them during this cleaning process. Because of this I switched to LIGHTER FLUID , which is stronger and the process quickly proceeded. Thanks ifixit for your great support.

    Jamba - 답글

    I had to replace my replacement battery ... luckily the ifixit adhesive isnt that overpowered ... ehem ... I just pulled the old one out softly ... used the plastic card, some force ... and build the hopefully-this-time-lasting-longer-than-4-month-new-battery in ... it saved my evening.

    Arne Fischer - 답글

    I just finished doing my second battery replacement on one of these. If you're replacing a battery that came from iFixit you can skip straight to step 34 and use cards/spudgers/guitar picks to remove the batteries. The adhesive on the iFixit batteries isn't nearly as tenacious as the original Apple adhesive (though it's plenty to keep the battery stable) and it was easy to pop the battery segments out with a spudger and peel up most of the excess adhesive strips. What little was left came off easily by putting small amounts of the solvent on paper towel and rubbing - no need to pour any amount of solvent into the case.

    lindensmith - 답글

    When it's time to install the new battery, bend the wires a little more to make a "U" shaped down curve...

    Alex De Lara - 답글

    The acetone bottle shown runs the risk of dispensing a lot of solvent - which may well damage the speaker plastic. I used a 5 ml plastic pipette to deliver small controlled amounts and had no problems removing the battery without having to take everything else out :-) I also used propanol (isopropyl alcohol) on some kitchen towel to remove the adhesive residue from the case - slightly less effective than acetone, but doesn't dissolve the plastic :-)

    Jon Harris - 답글

    I took the good advice of all you previous commenters and skipped to step 34.

    I did not have any solvent but it just took some careful patience prying up the battery with a couple plastic cards.

    elyze - 답글

    I used a guitar string ( high e 9 gauge) and a pair of thin leather gloves (to protect hands ) and after using tweezers to get it behind the batteries I was able to pull thru/ cut thru the adhesive with relative ease .

    brian stoller - 답글

  5. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement, AirPort/Camera Cable: 5 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.

    • The cable connection points are fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.

    • To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

    will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.

    Oleg Babko - 답글

    Yes, this voids your warranty.

    max damage -

    These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.

    Alvin Chua - 답글

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    Macrepair SF -

    unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.

    Arn Custodio - 답글

    The order of the cables doesn't seem to matter when re-attaching. It also might be helpful to unscrew and eject the airport card. Having it free can give you a better angle.

    joey - 답글

    Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!

    Thomas Kunjappu - 답글

    Agreed, for some reason, the middle one was stubborn — and I was worried the amount of force I applied to push it back on was going to break something - but it did pop back on.

    Jer -

    I would never remove those tiny plugs unless I absolutely have to. And we do not have to remove them, just the card itself…

    Jurgen -

    I looked at these plugs under a 8X lupe, since my 56-year-old eyes are not what they used to be. They are circular, so it’s more a question of just aligning the bottom with the top of the plug rather than angle. If I can do it, someone with better eyes can definitely do it.

    Sam Bortnick -

    After reading so many reviews on ifixit and other sites regarding the difficulty of replacing my MacBook Pro retina screen assembly, I was a bit nervous. Using this walk through made it super easy. Thank you so much for taking the time to create it!

    cabcpa - 답글

    Removing these 3 tiny cables is completely unnecessary. I removed my fan last week to clean and it slips by these cables. For some dumb reason i wanted to follow this "correct" procedure and now one of the gold connections detached from the wire like it was nothing. Seriously, dont do this. I used a spunger and was very delicate putting it back on... And look what happened. SKIP!

    travismlive - 답글

    Yeah, I agree, just leave the airport card attached to the pins and remove the card itself. Then you won’t have to fuss with these connectors.

    Jer -

    @tmm Your right on! Just finished replacing my right fan and your tip saved me from messing with these tiny cables. I totally understand your frustration as I was too just about to stick to the procedure, but if it’s any comfort your tip helped someone… so don’t be surprised being rewarded by some good karma :)

    IT’S UNNECESSARY TO DETACH THE 3 TINY CABLES FROM THE CARD, JUST DETACH THE AIRPORT CARD WITH IT’S CABLES ATTACHED BY GRABING IT FROM BOTH SIDES USING TWO FINGERS AND GENTLY SHAKE IT UNTIL IT DETACHES. THEN MOVE THE WHOLE THING A BIT ASIDE.

    THIS STEP IS ONLY NECESSARY TO MAKE WAY TO THE FAN CONNECTOR UNDERNEATH.

    There is one thing though I find missing which concerns:

    1)The rubber heat sink cover

    2 The AirPort/Camera cables

    3)The IO board cable

    All these are “glued” to the fan and you need to peel them off gently using the spudger, now while I noticed that some glue remains on each cable so they will kinda stick again, I wonder what kind of glue is this and where one can buy it?

    Itai -

    These individual instructions are re-used across multiple tutorials. If you are replacing the battery, you probably won’t need to remove the three connections from the Airport card; if you are replacing the display, you definitely need to replace them, because they are connected to the display. I just replaced the battery and the display in a single activity, so I pretty much had to remove everything. Also agree with a previous commentor that it’s easier to reconnect the cables before the card is reconnected to the system board.

    ChrisMBP -

    travismlive is right, you do not need to remove these cables or the airport card. Just remove the I/O board cable, undo the screws, and detach the antenna cables from the fan where they are glued with a spudger. Unlock the ZIF-socket and the you can wriggle the fan out. Probably saved my airport card, thanks travismlive!

    Jasper - 답글

    I only successfully reattached 1 of the 3 AirPort cables, I just taped the other two. But the AirPort seems to work fine. Do these also have anything to do with Bluetooth though? I do seem to have trouble with Bluetooth after this operation. In any case, it was worth it... I replaced the screen with a new Apple screen for less than 1/2 the Apple Store wanted! Thanks!

    Douglas Johnston - 답글

    Would soldering them back in place be better than taping? I certainly don't want spare solder on my motherboard, so I figure that'd be a last resort only if I lose AirPort connectivity.

    Douglas Johnston - 답글

    Assembly is a nightmare. If rightmost cable is not connected, BT will not work.

    Radoslaw Przybyl - 답글

    the hardest step is reconnecting the airport antenna cables. just have patience< and use tweezers, spluger and a q-tip.

    Frederick Rae - 답글

    The three cables have different lengths. The longest should to the farthest pin, medium to middle, short to nearest.

    Sam Jomaa - 답글

    Also, having the right tools will make the job really easy. I used a spudger similar to the one recommended on this web site. But i had ordered a complete kit from amazon.com. I did not have any problem removing or re-attaching the pins.

    Sam Jomaa - 답글

    tweezers to hold the cable and the flat part of the spudger to push down on the connectors is the easiest way to re-assemble

    Jon Ocampo - 답글

    Replacing these were the most difficult step I encountered. I finally determined that it took slight back and forth twisting of the cable (from left to right as viewed from above) to cause the connector on the cable to twist into position so it could be pressed down.

    chuck60 - 답글

    I read your step and you are 100% correct. This helped me tremendously. Thanks!

    Achilles -

    Use leverage with tip of a spudger, it’s not that difficult to pry the cables.

    When you reassemble, use a tweezers to put the connector on the right position and push it down with a finger on the other hand.

    Grab the neck of the cable when using a tweezers.

    eskoo - 답글

    Several of the people above mentioned not disconnecting these three wires. You must remove and replace these if you are replacing the entire display which is what these instructions are about. This is the most difficult step as others have noted. Just be careful and make sure you have the cable level before you start pushing down.

    Walt Goede - 답글

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    Macrepair SF - 답글

    Reassembling: What makes this so hard? From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It appears to be circular and therefore not needing to be oriented radially in any particular angle. It doesn’t look hard at all! Does anyone understand what the subtlety is that causes everyone so much grief?

    Chapman Harrison - 답글

    Reassembling: as so many as commented, this is incredibly hard - and inexplicably so. From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It doesn’t look hard at all! But I couldn’t do it.

    Here’s what seems to have worked for me: with my left fingertip on the cable holding the connector directly above the female, I used the spudger to press down the flat back of the connector, initially at the top and then sliding along toward the neck. I used normal pressure, and voila, when I lifted the spudger away the wretched wire didn’t spring up again. It was like it wanted to be rocked, or stroked, once, from top to neck, rather than pressed straight down.

    Chapman Harrison - 답글

    I skipped to step 34. Just pushed up the speakers so that they don’t touch the body.

    Sascha Gl Richy - 답글

    Can anyone help me? I would like to replace my speakers. Which steps can i skip?

    Manzil Monabber - 답글

    I have completed replacing my speakers and this step was not needed at all.

    Manzil Monabber - 답글

    I just completed the full screen assembly replacement with 90% success I guess. Like many others noted, this was the hardest step, and one them (leftmost) was extra hard, but I eventually got them all back in. However, I don’t have 5G wifi anymore. 2.4 g works fine, bluetooth works fine, and the screen, camera, and mic are all perfectly functioning. I just can’t connect to 5G wifi. Is there a fix for this?

    Aaron C - 답글

    Absolutely no need to take apart the whole thing, get some strong fishing line and slowly saw the adhesive away. Once the battery is out, (if you are prone to be clumsy just cover/ shield the rest of the computer, than use GOO GONE or the like waiting a couple minutes to scrape out the old adhesive. The only reason they make your take everything out is that they assume you are lazy and will be using the adhesive remover which could damage the rest of the computer if allowed to splatter etc. Just save your self some time and stress, get strong braided fishing line ( works way better than floss or string as it is of a smaller diameter and isn’t smooth and helps the sawing action), and work your way around each cell. This is still way shorter than removing the entire computer and much less likely hood of damaging sensitive connectors.

    Pia Paeh - 답글

    Agreed! Especially if you replace the batttery a second time with a less Apple-like adhesive.

    To prepare for a third time I actually covered parts of the adhesive pads with plastic film on the new battery. I figured that gluing it to the base where it is actually hooked behind the frame makes little sense.

    Cheers to everyone repairing good old things and keeping them alive!

    Jörg -

    Putting these 3 cables back was a lot of work. I bent the outer side of the middle cable, but was able to fix it with fine tweezers from the repair kit.

    olegpsh - 답글

    I did a screen replacement recently using this guide and the disassembly/assembly was fine - very good instructions. But when I turned on the machine there was a very fine flickering, snow-like interference, especially noticeable on black backgrounds. I assumed it was a faulty replacement screen and continued to use it. Recently, I had to change out the battery so I dissasembled the screen again to see if reconnecting it would fix the problem. Now it is perfect. I think the problem was that the left-most (shortest) airport cable connector was touching the black screw next to it on the board and shorting out. Be careful to position this connector well away from that screw.

    rumblefish - 답글

    I found placing the spunger under the part of the connectors AWAY FROM THE WIRE (top and/or side depending on which of the three you’re finessing), and then rocking them gently from side to side pops them out gently.

    MFMauceri - 답글

    I read the note above and managed to fold the card out of the way. I’d put it in a paper envelope to stop it touching anything as it flaps around. The bag also stops static build up and reminds you it’s there ! The wires on mine were held down with two strips of tape, the pointed spudger? pushed along the length of the wires widened the tape loop when I pushed firmly but carefully. Once widened, tweezers can open it fully .

    Simon Anthony - 답글

    I skipped the step of removing the airport antenna cables and removed the airport card with the cables since so many users said it was extremely hard to get the airport cables back on properly. By skipping the airport cable removal I save a lot of potential headaches and performing this task was not any more difficult to do.

    Timothy McDaniel - 답글

    I skipped steps 5 - 40 and removed the old battery with the plastic card and a palette-knife after heating the adhesive strips cautiously with a hair dryer. After that removing the adhesive strips with the solvent was by far the most time consuming part.

    Martin Zeilinger - 답글

    so what happens if you damage 1 of the 3 connectors because you didn’t read all the comments first? Does it work at all or just diminished wifi reception?

    Can someone at ifixit update the main instruction page to advise removing the airport card instead of the super fragile cables?

    Brandyn McKibben - 답글

    YOU DONT NEED ANY OF THIS!

    it is SO stupidly risky to remove all this. Who the HECK wrote this guide?!? Thank God I checked on youtube and found guys who did NOTHING of these steps and simply removed the battery in under 1 h.

    Silly Billy - 답글

    Steps 5-33 are not really needed if you are careful with the speakers, not to spill the fluid onto them. It saves a lot of time and potential dangerous operations. I did it without any problem.

    Cristian Caprar - 답글

    Please be extremely careful, I just ripped out one of the sockets for the cables. I fixed it with Tesa until I can buy a new Airport-Card.

    Josiah Lauer - 답글

    BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP both when disconnecting the cable connection points and while doing the reconnection. I damaged the J2 connector (Wi-Fi and Bluetooth are working just fine, though) while trying to reconnect it to the AirPort card. I’ll suggest, as others have here as well, to not disconnect the cables and just have them connected to the card the entire time as this is, IMHO, a completely unnecessary step to take while doing this whole procedure.

    Rafael Pérez - 답글

    Well, this is the step that (just through reading these comments) I decided NOT to fix my right speaker. Anytime I have to remove these delicate Airport and Camera wires and connections, I get very nervous. (I've done it before, successfully, on a MacMini [ugh; never again!] - just to replace the two slow HD with SSDs! What a hassle!

    I'll just my headphones or computer speakers through the headphone jack.

    Jonathan Paul Saltzman - 답글

    I'm an amateur, so what do I know - but to replace a battery I skipped this step, and all other steps until step 36, I've no idea why they include all these other steps for battery replacement. Literally all steps from 5 - 35 aren't needed.

    Andy M - 답글

    I broke the J0 connector when this reconnecting step. But Wi-Fi and Bluetooth functionality are still alive I don't know the reason why.

    ppop popy - 답글

    Pretty sure it is fine, but if you want stronger and further WiFi range, that 3rd connector is what gives you that.

    Cary B -

    Why do I have to remove the airport antennas?

    Cary B - 답글

    Surtout ne pas démonter les 3 connecteurs. Extraire la nappe camera/wifi sans enlever le 3 connecteurs. Les 3 connecteurs sont fragiles et très difficile à remettre. Dans mon cas, 2/3 des connexions sur la nappe sont HS.

    bruno Villers - 답글

    This is the point where you should say "No freaking way" and go watch this youtube video and save yourself a nightmare: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfHHIERH...

    There is absolutely no need for this repair to be this insanely convoluted.

    Donovan Rittenbach - 답글

  6. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 6 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable's plug toward the fan and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • The plug in the photo has six connections, but some models have twelve connections. The process of removing the plug from its socket is the same for both.

    • If the camera cable's plug won't come easily out of its socket on the logic board, fold back the rubber cover over the fan to gain access to the cable, then gently pull on the cable while using the spudger to gently push the plug out of its socket.

    • Be sure to push parallel to the board, first on one side, then the other, to slowly "walk" the plug out of its socket. Do not pry up, or you will damage the socket.

    I've broken camera connection socket, is it repairable?

    Sergey - 답글

    Same for me too just take the socket from your broken screen and cut it off and solder it onto the new screen. It was really hard because it's so small but I did it.

    bhayes9614 -

    This is much easier if you do step 7 first so you can pull lightly on the cable and take the tension off the connection caused by the stiff cable.

    mayer - 답글

    This tip worked for me.

    eskoo -

    If you are removing the right fan it is not necessary to unplug the camera cable. You can slip the fan out underneath the cable.

    noahtfu - 답글

    Hi! Camera flex cable is from MBP Retina Mid 2012 & Early 2013. Not Late 2013 :) Edit it please.

    kramerigor - 답글

    the tip of the middle 3 wire was broken on the replacement screen. I didn't connect it and everything seems to work fine, mac hardware test says everything is fine... Is it possible?

    micheleroger - 답글

    Yes. They are wifi antenna cables. Missing one antenna won't affect much, and won't show up in any hardware test.

    Jason Amri -

    Push on the little wings, from right to left.

    Julian Wood - 답글

    This is the hardest part of disassembly! Arguable hardest part of re-assembly too, other than the airport cables

    Jon Ocampo - 답글

    The instruction is not clear to me at all. Frankly the comments mentioning things make me uneasy about proceeding further.

    Ben Moore - 답글

    This came off for me - now my computer’s fan is running high constantly, and “Kernel_task” is using 500% of the CPU even though nothing else is running - what can I do?

    Ryan Brown - 답글

    Did you ever get the fan to stop? how?

    Cyd Trice -

    It is very important to note here that you are NOT pushing up. You are pulling the cable back toward the fan. Doing step 7 first makes that easier. I misunderstood the instruction here (as others seem to have as well) and broke this part. I’m fine with not having a camera on this computer so I’ll leave it or ask my son to help me solder it later.

    Jen Wells - 답글

    can you give guidance on the soldering? Im new to it and dont want to burn anything / especially the wrong thing!

    Cyd Trice -

    The wing closed to the edge of the chassis is completely stuck. I’ve worked on it for an hour. The other wing moves freely. I’m not sure what to do now.

    Charles Lindauer - 답글

    The connector is very tight - I couldn’t even see the join between cable end and the socket and couldn’t see the “ears” on the end of the socket. And, of course, pulling didn’t help. I eventually used tweezers to start things off, gripping on the metal of the socket right where the invisible join was. What a delight to have the join open enough to see! After that, it was easy.

    jerryl - 답글

    Thank You Jerryl - The tweezers did the trick. They want to pop out so you can use your other hand to apply slight downward pressure to keep them in place. Work both ends of the tweezers gently back and forth and you should start to see the gap get bigger.

    Chuck Barton - 답글

    I used tweezers and the spudger. Take the point of the spudger and push on one side of the “dog ear” while supporting the other side with the closed tweezers on the cable side of the dog ear. (Could use a second spudger) work one side the move to the other repeatedly until the connection disconnects.

    This is allows You to push and support simultaneously and minimize the chance damaging the connector.

    Jonathan Dowling - 답글

    Removed cover (Step 7). Released adhesive. Pulled directly out of socket to the left.

    Pushing out of this connector is ill advised, as no mechanical ledge to push.

    Joseph Gorse - 답글

    The late 2013 Macbook connector is slightly different to the picture, I used tweezers to loosen up first and when the joint appeared used the flat edge of the spludger to push the connector using the gap. Don't rush push this from each side gently till it comes out.

    Lanre O - 답글

    I found this step to be difficult due to the picture and instructions being incorrect for MacBook Late 2013. Unfortunately, I damaged the pins during this step and my camera no longer works. :^( Please update this step.

    Cristina Stoll - 답글

    @xtstoll I looked at two separate Late 2013 units today, and both are indistinguishable from what’s shown in the instructions. Are you sure you’re working on the right model? A photo of what this cable looks like on your laptop would be helpful.

    Jeff Suovanen - 답글

    A MAGNIFYING GLASS really helps on this. The cable’s sheathing may need to be pushed back a tad to find a place to get leverace to work the pin out.

    MFMauceri - 답글

    DO FIRST

    STEP 7 : Untight the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.

    Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.

    STEP 8 : Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

    So you can easily disconnect the connector.

    KRIS - 답글

    Tweezers saved me on this one! Take your time and keep trying (gently) if you're still struggling

    Elizabeth Jolly - 답글

    gently set pointed tweezers at the ears on either side and walk it back toward the fan

    Christa - 답글

    I have jewellers glasses and they were so helpful. Without them I would have broken plenty of bits. I really recommend getting some magnification for this job, some of the bits are sooooo small!

    Gordon Young - 답글

    I have a late 2013, and using the tweezers to gently create a gap worked excellently. I used the tip of the spudger to push it out the rest of the way, alternating right and left on the edge exposed by the gap, pushing gently even when it wasn’t apparent there was any movement.

    Troy Hall - 답글

    The way I did it took less than a minute. Ensure the AirPort card is not in place on the board. Get a pair of tweezers to squeeze the ends of the cables into each holder on the card. Apply pressure on the back of the card and the cable end at the same time. If it works, the cables will swivel easily in their slots. Then put the AirPort cable into the board.

    Michael Stroh - 답글

    I did it in less than a minute. Used a pair of tweezers. First thing is to take out the AirPort card from the slot. Hold it in one hand while using the tweezers to squeeze each of the cable ends into their sockets. Ensure that you are squeezing the back of the card at the same time as you are clipping in the cable ends. You will see that each cable end will swivel around and not come out of their sockets.

    Michael Stroh - 답글

    As per other comments, recommend referring to steps 7 and 10 before attempting step 6.
    I found it helpful to remove the airport card first, then use tweezers to gently pull cable 0.5 m from socket, then use pointy end of "spudger" to push connector out of socket.

    Tim Telcik - 답글

    This is the point where you should say "No freaking way" and go watch this youtube video and save yourself a nightmare: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfHHIERH...

    There is absolutely no need for this repair to be this insanely convoluted.

    Donovan Rittenbach - 답글

  7. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 7 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 7 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 7 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.

    • Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive.

    • Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.

    Back (case) side of rubber attachment is flimsy-ish, so need to be delicate when peeling rubber back.

    cahcadden - 답글

    assume everything is delicate and needs to be worked gently.

    Christa -

    True @cahcadden.

    Worst case you could accidentally tear it off

    (thank god, that didn’t happen to me, but belive me —> it was a close call)

    Shahzad Arif - 답글

    The glue will be gone, don't fret about it. You can just let it flap back when you are done, you can order this item from Amazon: B09WMWH3LM - contact shoes glue.. A little smear on both parts goes a long way. In my case I already had the stuff from other things I fixed for my wife.

    Alex De Lara - 답글

  8. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 8 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 8 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 8 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

    • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

    • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

    It's a bit tricky to re-route the cables when you're installing the new display, so pay close attention to how they're originally routed, to make sure you don't pinch them or torque them.

    PriorityMail - 답글

    I used scotch tape to temporarily hold the cables in place until I was ready to reinstall the bottom cover, but I removed the tape at that last step (didn’t want it coming loose later, and possibly obstructing a fan).

    ChrisMBP - 답글

  9. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement, I/O Board Cable: 9 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement, I/O Board Cable: 9 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement, I/O Board Cable: 9 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • If your I/O Board cable's connectors have notches in the padding, you will need to release a locking lever underneath the notch in order to remove the cable. If this is the case, don't pry up on the connector until the levers are unlatched.

    • Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • During reassembly, connect this end first, as it does not flex.

    • In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board cable connector from its socket on the I/O Board.

    • Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.

    Note that the Mac has been rotated 180º between steps 8 & 9

    peteyx - 답글

    When reinstalling the io board cable make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all.

    bitmat23 - 답글

    ABSOLUTELY ! I found out the hard way. I took a break, came back to me dead computer and wondered - if - this cable would fit the other way round - and voila ! I wish I had read this note first :-)

    Simon Anthony -

    i did exactly the same mistake! Same procedure as well: keep calm, and start again the tutorial.

    every thing work find now

    Guigui -

    Sockets are ZIF with releasing levers on the top. If you pull up on the top padding, you will reveal silver lever handels facing the rear of the machine. Pry up on the LEVER to release the pressure, then pull the lever straight up to release the connector from the socket. DO NOT pry under the edge of the connector to remove these or you may damage the ZIF socket. They may have changed these connectors between models, otherwise I don’t know how this was overlooked in the guide.

    hybrid - 답글

    Confirming, these are indeed zifs for me too. My padding has notches indicating location of lever needing to be raised. Obviously lever is tiny, look closely. If your padding is a clean rectangle as shown in guide, you may not have zif sockets here

    hamiltont -

    Confirmed; if the foam pieces are not perfectly rectangular, you should be able to pry back the side of the foam with the cut-away. It folds in half. You can see the lever under the foam. Lift the handle with the spudger, then when it’s pointing straight up (it flips up), you can lift up on the lever (straight up). This should be done for both ends.

    Patryk -

    Confirmed. These instructions (and photos) should definitely be added to the guide!

    Nathan Lucy -

    I just did this and there are no silver lever handles. The connectors just pop off when you pry on them.

    edc - 답글

    While putting back the I/O cable, I assumed that it just connects back in place with pressure, kind of like Velcro. I just pushed the one on the left down first as instructed, and, while doing so, folded down the tiny wire lever under the padding (As someone stated earlier, the wire lever isn’t on all models) along with it. It seem to go back in place fairly easily if you’re careful to align the two sides (the part under the cable with the part on the logic board). A a novice, I think this warrants being addressed in more detail. Kinda had to do this intuitively.

    Sam Bortnick - 답글

    There is adhesive under the cable. I twisted the cable parallel to the flat fan surface to break it without bending the cable.

    Nathan Lucy - 답글

    Yeah, and a strong adhesive.

    throughout all the repairs i have on my MacBook, I have put changing the right fam on the side, just because I was thinking there will be no way of removing the cable without damaging it.

    Soufiane Ezzine -

    I hope I didn't mess up (I'm still dismantling my MBP) but I didn't detach the cable from the fan housing. Disconnected from both ends, and it appeared contented to flop there in space. Fan was then removed without incident

    Fredrick Mezger - 답글

    you need to lift one side of the rubber/foam cover to reveal the lock

    Alex De Lara - 답글

  10. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement, Airport Card: 10 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.

    I don't see why this is necessary just to remove the logic board...

    Miles Raymond - 답글

  11. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 11 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 11 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Grasp the sides of the AirPort card and lift it up to a shallow angle (5-10˚) to separate the light adhesive adhering it to the logic board.

    • Pull the AirPort card parallel out of its connector on the logic board to remove it.

    As others have mentioned, it's not necessary to remove the Airport antenna cables. Leave the cables attached and remove the Airport card.

    Swing the card and the attached cables across the fan.

    stvn chng - 답글

    You may lift a little like few degrees then pull parallel when removing.

    eskoo - 답글

    There might be a touch of adhesive, lift first – a gentle touch with the spudger helps.

    Tristan Harward - 답글

    Yes, lift about 5-10 degrees first, then pull out. If you do not release the adhesive, it may be stuck in place and you could damage the card trying to pull it out.

    hybrid - 답글

    I will add to what others have said about lifting the card lightly using a spudger to get the adhesive to let go of the board. Otherwise the card may get damaged.

    jeiboussa - 답글

    Yes. LIFT up slightly on one end to clear retaining pin before tugging.

    MFMauceri - 답글

    Yes. Slight lift to release adhesive and then pull out.

    David Choy - 답글

    Highly recommend attaching to your new logic board right away.

    bmellman - 답글

    I don't see why this is necessary just to remove the logic board...

    Miles Raymond - 답글

    I found it helpful to use the flat end of a "spudger" to gently lift airport card from the main board prior to unplugging.

    Tim Telcik - 답글

  12. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 12 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 12 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the right fan cable to free it from the logic board.

    • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board.

    I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.

    Alvin Chua - 답글

    My retaining flap just came off. Can you confirm your fan doesn't need it to function??

    Peter Ungacta, Jr. -

    Easier to do while removing fan.

    mayer - 답글

    ZIF = Ziero Insertion Force. Once the tiny retaining flap is up, it should slide out easily toward the back. There was no adhesive on my machine, so the cable slid out easily. But be careful if yours is glued down.

    Don Steele - 답글

    I don’t know why, but I could pull the connector out & in without flipping up the flap. And fans are working flawlessly.

    eskoo - 답글

    The pictures were confusing to me so let me add some more context. There is a ZIF socket (Zero insertion force) being addressed in the first picture. This socket has a black top that is currently closed down on the socket. Using your tool you need to lift this flap up to release the wire underneath (This release happens in the second step). Hence only pull up on the black flap enough to make it go from horizontal to vertical (Swing flap). Neither picture shows it in the up position. Step 2, Picture 2, Then gliding your flat spudger, you goal is to lift the wire that was in the ZIF socket out by lightly lifting up on both the wire and the rubber cushion on top of it. Make sure you lift both. You are successful when both are lifted up and out and facing vertical instead of horizontal.

    Frank D - 답글

    Great clarification, thank you.

    Hunter Gallagher -

    Can anyone advise what to do if the ZIF socket pulls up from the logic board? I was gentle with it, but it pulled up anyway. The fan and ribbon are fine, but I’m worried this will require an expensive logic board repair.

    Jaysmi - 답글

    To really see which part of the ZIF socket has to be lifted up you should compare the pictures of step 10 and of step 12, preferably in its original size.

    Then you can see that the inner part of the ZIF has to be moved up, away from the batteries.

    Stephan Yaraghchi - 답글

    I managed to broke the side, thought this was pulling on sides mechanism to release, not just upwards. Luckily I managed to attach it and the fan is working.

    Josip Ricov - 답글

    Here is video how to open the ZIF socket. https://youtu.be/MQbqpWkCz94?t=360

    Ketut Sandiarsa - 답글

    Many thanks Ketut, that vid clip really helped!

    Paul Clarke -

    very appreciated!

    Alexis Quintana -

    Thank you… that vid is crisp!

    Erich Hentschel -

    Incredibly poor instructions!!! Thanks to the incorrect wording, I have just ruined the fan connector. There is NO lever. The cable gently slid out, after I borked it. I’m done with IFIXIT and the $@$*!& information. How about a little video clip inserted here. You guys can do better!

    Lorne Shantz - 답글

    Can anyone share how to put the retaining flap back onto the connector? Has anyone’s fan worked without it? My hinged retaining flap just slid off and it's extremely difficult to place it back on.

    Peter Ungacta, Jr. - 답글

    I found it easier to slide the flat end of the spudger tool in from the left side of the cable, near the 90 degree bend.

    Aimee Ness - 답글

    There’s no need to take off all this stuff. I’ve just disconnected the battery, used the glue remover and a dental floss to pull off the battery ✌?

    matteo lepore - 답글

    These instructions are pretty lacking for this step. In my case, for both the left and right fans, I did not need to flip up a retaining flap. I did not need to remove the airport card as I could sneak the ribbon cable out from underneath the airport card. There was a tiny bit of adhesive on the ribbon cable. Once that was worked free, I could slide the ribbon cable out of the connector (toward the screen hinge).

    Louis Kreusel - 답글

    To all those who complain about the quality of instructions given here, I find them so simple and clear, if you have problems following them you should be letting a repair shop or Apple do the repairs.

    robert - 답글

    I can recommend, after lifting ZIF clip, gently slide cable out of socket using "spudger" and/or need nose pliers.

    Tim Telcik - 답글

    I destroyed it. Now when the ZIP socket is off the board. Will I have chance to repair with a new or go on only with one fan function. It is so tiny to soldering that I guess the contact legs will connect together and cause a short circuit

    WeDoIt - 답글

    Took me step 28 to figure out the latch. its the rear of the connector

    Alex De Lara - 답글

  13. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 13 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar

    With most parts, its easier to leave the screws in the holes parts they come off with, and have small containers or a layout to do this with so each major part does not get mixed up - too many similar but different screws!

    AES - 답글

    What I did to separate the different screws, is to take the top of the ifixit essentials-kit (which has lots of small spaces to hold screws) and picked a row of these spaces, which I marked for the cooling-fan screws. So basically I just sort them by lenth: The 5 mm on the top space, underneath it the 4,4mm, and at last the 3,9mm. That way I didn’t loose track, because I was working in tandem with this instruction.

    Shahzad Arif - 답글

    In my case, the 3.9mm screw was connected to a spacer that sat flush to the motherboard. I misplaced this spacer and had to take the computer apart twice to find it… Make sure not to lose it if you have one!

    Daniel Kirk - 답글

    I was able to stop at this step and jump ahead to removing the battery. I did this based on the fact that the batteries were extremely swollen and I could see that the adhesive strips below were already separated from the bottom quite a bit. In retrospect my wife had complained that the computer ran very hot in the vicinity of the batteries (not sure why) but that heat apparently diminished the adhesive properties and allowed me to slowly pry the cells up while using a spudger to push between the case and batteries. Saved twenty some odd steps by doing it that way. If the batteries weren’t swollen I could not have done it this way. NOTE: When ordering just the battery adhesive remover is NOT included. I did not order it because I have acetone here and felt I did not need the iFixit remover.

    Terry Angelli - 답글

    The inner spacers on both fans that appear to have been SMT'd to the logic board fell off. I used a light adhesive to put them back but be cautious not to drop them if yours detach also.

    L. Hille - 답글

  14. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 14 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Lift and remove the right fan out from the MacBook Pro.

    • When reinstalling the fan, it's easiest connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you've installed the three fan screws.

  15. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement, Left Fan: 15 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.

    This came of super easy as the glue seemed to have dried up or something of that nature; anyone know if this is an issue?

    Also it seemed like there are clips on sides of the rubber heat sink which I couldn't work out how to clip it back on, so I placed it back where it was after and it seems to be ok; maybe it isn't meant to clip on hard and rather just to be a security measure. Anyone else had this?

    RT0 - 답글

    I had the same experience as you this was super easy to remove as well.

    spearson - 답글

    Glue was long gone. It just flops over by itself.

    Jer - 답글

    I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover. So verify that you insert rubber clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.

    Albert Stein - 답글

  16. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 16 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar

    • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    • When reinstalling the fan and its screws, don't fully torque the screws until you've first installed all of them loosely, so that the fan can move a little and position itself properly as you insert the screws into their threaded standoffs.

    check if screw marking here is right

    Oleg - 답글

    One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    what exactly do you mean by wide head torx screw? Is that another torx screw i should buy?

    best regards,

    Seth

    sethroot - 답글

    “Wide Head” just refers to the head of the screw being a bit wider than the others. It shouldn’t affect the size of the tool needed. That said, I also was unable to remove this screw with a T5. The screw on mine looked corroded. I ended up using Vampliers (great tool).

    maccentric -

    seems like T5 is the wrong screwdriver for the "3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw"

    ryanbraganza - 답글

    T4 seems to have worked for me

    jonathaniscarroll - 답글

    i tried unscrewing the screw with a yellow circle around it but it is not unscrewing i think it is stripped

    Habib Sy - 답글

    The nut of the 3.9 mm T5 screw (marked with red circle) seams to be glued or soldered onto the pcb. On my laptop, the connection broke so the nut is rattling on the pcb making a sick noise.

    Does anybody have an idea, how to best fix the nut on the pcb again?

    Marcel Reschke - 답글

    Marcel: The 3.9mm screw threads into a metal standoff (not a nut) that's glued to the logic board. If this standoff comes off of the board, a drop of superglue may allow it to stay in place, but to position the standoff properly while re-gluing it, first reattach it to the fan with its screw, then place a drop of superglue on the bottom end of the standoff, then drop the fan back into place and apply a little pressure to the top of the screw to help the superglue stick to the logic board.

    johnsawyercjs - 답글

    "One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar" (red) .. mine had no collar; I noticed on closing up.

    Gavin Eadie - 답글

  17. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 17 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 17 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 17 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.

    • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board. If necessary, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the cable in order to soften the adhesive and make it easier to remove.

    • Lift the left fan out of the device.

    • When reinstalling the fan, it's easier to connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you've installed the three fan screws.

    a question out of curiosity is it possible to remove that left fan completely and use and external fan instead of it?

    and what is that fan for? is it for CPU or VGA? i noticed someone was referring to that fan as vga's fan.

    Albert Einstein - 답글

    I can't imagine any scenario why one might want to do that Einstein. An external fan on a laptop? Seriously?

    maccentric - 답글

    I would say that my cable was permanently adhered, or at least requires chemistry to remove the adhesive. Definitely check if fan parts are in stock before attempting to remove the cable that doesn't seem to be coming loose from the motherboard.

    orders - 답글

    Couldn’t manage to “flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.”, in fact think I may may broken a piece off. In the end just pulled out the cable by sliding it down and out (maybe I did manage to loosen it after all). Cable didn’t appear to be glued down thankfully.

    Chris McKay - 답글

    That happened to me too! Little pieces of copper came off but I couldn’t see where from . I hope it’ll work after I reassemble.

    Sam Bortnick -

    Holes on the new fan did not exactly match up and ribbon cable has more tension as a result -

    I had to cut the loop on the mount for the 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw. Not ideal.

    Scott Evans - 답글

    So, what do I do if I break the connector on the board? Serious question, yes I did it. Now, how do I get the replacement part?

    Amin Shah Gilani - 답글

    The retaining flat is super fragile. And I doubt there’s any practical way to replace it. Don’t know if the connector still works ok without the flap.

    Steven DeRose - 답글

    After I exchanged the fan it‘s super noisy. I ordered at the ifixit shop and it seems it works but it‘s just super noisy. Does anyone know why?

    Thanks

    Karsten Hullebeck - 답글

    I have the same issue with my newly replaced fan…sounds worse than the broken one - will need to check with the ifixit team…

    Markus Meßerschmidt -

    reported this to the support team and got a replacement within one day. The new part works fine - no noise at all, old one is on the way back. Thank you iFixit!

    Markus Meßerschmidt -

    Left fan was 400% harder to remove due to adhesive. Use the opening tool to gently pry the cable little by little and eventually it will come up. The adhesive pad is the same size and position as the foam pad so concentrate your efforts there

    Aleksis G Williams - 답글

    Heads up that the ribbon cable slides into the connector on the board like a little tiny SD card.

    Louis Kreusel - 답글

  18. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement, SSD: 18 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

    When I got to this step I realized the screw was stripped. I'm unsure if it was stripped by my efforts -- I used the prescribed P5 screwdriver that was also used for the other screws, and the screwdriver still works when putting the lid back on.

    So to extract the stripped screw in Step 5 I've ordered iFixit's Precision Screw Extractor Set.

    Now I'm wondering if I also need to find a replacement screw since I probably won't be able to use the stripped one again after it's been extracted? The screw is called: 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw as per this guide .. the best I can find on eBay are screws called: 1,4 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 or 1,5 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 ... will one of these work? Would I be able to just go to a hardware store and find the proper screw or is it a specialty item?

    Lorte Messenger - 답글

    I'm sure you've long since figured it out, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this, a P5 is not a T5. It's a different screwdriver. The driver for the screws on the outside of the case will not work on the screw holding the SSD. I'm not sure why they left it off in the list of tools at the top.

    Dave Miller -

    The screws on the outside of the case are Pentalobe.

    The screw for the SSD is Torx.

    Both drivers are (now) on the list of required tools.

    (However, my devices both have a T6 head, not T5. May have been after-market.)

    jkgarrett17 -

    For the Macbook Pro Retina 15" Late 2013 models, I've heard the SSD is soldered to the logic board. This guide is for that model, but it doesn't address the soldering issue. Have I just been misinformed on this issue? Has anyone tried it with the late 2013 model yet?

    Elaine - 답글

    The SSD is not soldered to the board. You maybe thinking of the RAM which is soldered. (thank you apple) *dripping sarcasm*

    Ryan Tucker -

    I was needing to send my mid 2014 15" MacBook Pro in for a keyboard repair, and my company IT department shipped me a loaner of the same model except that it had a smaller SSD in it than mine, and said I should swap the SSDs between the two and then send mine back with the smaller drive in it to get fixed. I've been unable to swap the drives because neither mine nor the loaner (which are both the same model) appear to have a T5 screw holding the SSD in place. Both of them appear to have a T4, not a T5 (whatever it is is smaller than a T5 anyway, so I'm guessing it's a T4). So now I'm on hold until I can find a T4 screwdriver.

    Dave Miller - 답글

    OK, got the new tool set, and yes, it really is actually a T5 screw, you just need a really sharp driver. My existing T5 driver was getting a little dull on the tip. So make sure you have a really new/precision T5 driver/bit to use (and again I'll point out that ifixit failed to list this tool in the list of needed tools at the top).

    Dave Miller -

    It's definitely a T5, just takes more control vs only strength. I went left and right in small increments while pushing down to let the screwdriver dig in before slowly being able to loosen it up.

    Toan Tran - 답글

    Both of my A1398 computers (Mid-2012 Retina 15” and Late 2013 Retina 15”) have a screw that my T6 bit fits perfectly. If using a T5 screwdriver/bit makes your screw seem stripped, try the T6.

    (The 2012 was purchased second-hand, and the 2013 was purchased from a dealer known for unauthorized upgrades; it is possible my screws were swapped.)

    jkgarrett17 - 답글

    I’m pretty certain this screw is a tiny bit larger diameter than the others — I mixed it up and tried to use it elsewhere, and it wouldn’t fit, so IO swapped in another and set this one aside. Later when I got to this point, other screws were too small and wouldn’t grab. So I tried the one I had set aside earlier, and it fit perfectly. That might explain why this one seemed “stripped” to another commentator.

    Steven DeRose - 답글

    On my MacBookPro11,3 this screw was 2.8mm long and had a slightly thicker thread.

    lochotzke - 답글

  19. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 19 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 19 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.

    where can I buy a 1 or 2 TB SSD? I think it isn’t possible using a SSD like I build in my MacBook Pro mid 2012?

    Chris - 답글

    You can get 1TB or 2TB SSD from OWC macsales.com

    https://eshop.macsales.com/shop/ssd/owc/...

    Macrepair SF -

    Hi,

    I intent to purchase a 2 TB ssd for my late 2013 MBP. I read some comments, that the mac reaacted weirdly and was not 100 % compatible with the ssd (not waiking up properly, macstart sound sounded twice, sometimes freezing…). Can you confirm these issues, and are there any workaroundas for them?

    Secondly I plan to restore the time machine from my broken late 2011 MBP. Since you recommended late os for the ssd upgrade I was wondering whether If I restore a time machine backup with an older os if my ssd will cause problems then because the drivers are suddenly missing?

    Thanks and best regards

    ramón

    ramón - 답글

    I did this first thing after disconnecting the battery and I'd suggest everyone to do the same! Save your data!

    My battery was bulging and it is obviously quite dangerous. But anyways, any battery in seemingly good conditions can be dangerous as well.

    So in order to prevent a massive data loss along a very long crying session, I opened the back, disconnected the batt as per the guide instructions and then took the SSD off.

    So in case something had gone wrong and the battery started smoking forcing me to throw my laptop off the window, burying it in sand or the whole thing starting to burn, I would've already had a way to access my data by setting the SSD aside first thing.

    It is actually no joke when working with batteries, specially when they're bulging like mine was. Check videos on youtube and see how volatile these things can be!

    Kudos to the iFixit team, this is a great guide!

    Ismael Abufon - 답글

    Ismael: That's a good idea, but it's also a good idea to back up the SSD before beginning the Macbook disassembly procedure. This way you'll have two copies of your data, and you can plug the backup into another Mac if you need access to it before you've got your Macbook reassembled, especially if something goes wrong during reassembly that prevents you from using your Macbook for a while.

    johnsawyercjs - 답글

    Do i need to reinstall macos when i change the ssd? And is the data on the mac will change when changing it?

    Azkap - 답글

  20. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement, I/O Board: 20 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement, I/O Board: 20 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the I/O board data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    This is a difficult step. A few images for the removal of the cable would be good/better

    Robert Jan Lebbink - 답글

    Yes, a few more detailed pics here would help. Indeed, general pics explaining HOW ALL the plugs and sockets fit would be VERY handy :-)

    Simon Anthony -

    I helped me to use the pliers both to get underneath the canble lock and then push on the wings of the cable.

    Calvin Truong - 답글

    Used fingers on the cable lock.

    Joseph Gorse - 답글

    gently use tips of tweezers at either side to walk it out

    Christa - 답글

    It is much more easy to do step 21 before step 20 - this cable is more easy to remove

    Also if you assemble then do step 20 before step 21 - it is more easy to place the cable into the connector

    Muescha - 답글

    I found it easier to just use my finger nail to release the clamping lever. Then the spudger to ease it out.

    billbonney - 답글

  21. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 21 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 21 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 21 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board.

    • On some models, also removing the silver 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw from the heatsink can aid in I/O board removal.

    • Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.

    This did not want to come out. The bottom was really wedged in there good. I had to pry up the bottom part with a screw driver. The funny thing was it was really easy to put back in. *shrug*

    Jer - 답글

    it actually has an extra screw that needs to be removed.

    Reid Rankin - 답글

    Thank you. Removing the screw by the heat sink really helped get this board removed.

    Christopher Hofmann -

    It helped me to push the IO board further into the casing and then lifting.

    Calvin Truong - 답글

    i/o cable was much easier to remove after freeing the i/o board & slightly lifting it. SK

    Stefan Kirchanski - 답글

    I believe, the IO Board can stay where it is, for logic board replacement..?

    smirgle - 답글

    Yes, I replace motherboard without touch IO Board

    Александр Гращенков -

    On a 2014.5 design, these instructions should be revised on this process. The heat pipe needs to be removed first if one were to remove the I/O CCA, Reason being, the CCA is installed first into the case and then the heat pipe contact tab lays atop the CCA under the plastic injection molded part. This injection molded piece part secures the tab to the CCA to ensure optimal contact thus, ensuring heat is wicked away from the CCA.

    So when I see comments regarding how it is easier to install than remove, that is an indicator that the user was unaware of how to correctly assemble this component thus, the CCA top side substrate is sitting below the heat pipe tab vs. the other way around.

    This will induce a thermal issue on the I/O CCA and also, possibly short out the board when the conformal coating and painted surface of the heat pipe wears off due to vibration when cables are connected.

    While I like these instructions, I would overhaul them and revise them.

    Christopher McKenna - 답글

    Yes, removing the screw near the heat sink really did make it come out easily!

    David Choy - 답글

    Notice that the silver 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw is the same one you’re going the be asked to remove on step 29.

    Rafael Pérez - 답글

    As per comments above, I found it mandatory to remove the extra silver screw near the heat sink, which locked the logic board.

    Hence, the instructions for this step were very relevant:

    "On some models, also removing the silver 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw from the heatsink can aid in I/O board removal."

    Tim Telcik - 답글

    If you have a Transcend JetDrive installed, it needs to be removed. It was just so familiar and form-fitting that I forgot it was in there. Removing it made the I/O board suddenly so easy to remove...

    Fredrick Mezger - 답글

  22. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement, Logic Board Removal: 22 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement, Logic Board Removal: 22 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board

    • Be sure to pry on the cable head, and not on the socket itself. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

    At this point, it should be noted that the author is using two different logic boards through the procedure. Here, for the first time is the difference between a 2.3 GHz board and the 2.6 GHz board. The audio out socket is integral to the 2.3 GHz board. The 2.6 GHz board has a discrete audio out jack that plugs into the logic board. As the disassembly proceeds, the 2.6 board’s audio outlet is unplugged (Step 26/27 pictures note this, but the author doesn’t. So, as I hoped, the 2.3 GHz board can be replaced by a 2.6 GHz board, IF you don’t want an audio out jack!

    David White - 답글

    Correction. The two boards are NOT compatible. The battery connector and others do not align. A faulty 2.3 GHz logic board is no excuse to get a faster board.

    David White - 답글

    Note that you should SLIDE not pull these out. Just broke one of them.

    andershegelund - 답글

    On this model they should be pried straight up from the board as instructed. If your connector looks different from what’s shown in the photos, proceed with caution, verify your model number and make sure you’re following the corresponding guide.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I totally missed the pry STRAIGHT UP instruction. I tried to slide one out and it sheared from the board, taking one copper trace with it. Poop!

    Peter Kaczkowski - 답글

    On MID-2014 Retina, they definitely lift up and out.

    MFMauceri - 답글

    On LATE-2013 Retina, they definitely lift up and out

    KRIS - 답글

    This really was helpfully! Thanks!

    Jan Dreyer -

    VERY HELPFUL. Thank you.

    Rafael Pérez -

    Yes. This is tricky. Be VERY CAREFUL. I damaged it. I’m afraid this MacBook is RIP.

    Richard Cacciato - 답글

    This was tricky. I pried up from where the cable enters the connector with a very small flat headed screwdriver - no spudgers to hand!

    aaron.sarginson - 답글

    I can confirm. you LIFT UP on Mid-2014.

    Costantino - 답글

    Yes, LIFT UP with 2,3GHz Late 2013

    diplomat3000 - 답글

    As others have said, this was pretty nerve-wracking to release. I used the pointed end of a spudger and gently pried up on the plastic corner where the wires go into the connector. Not the wires themselves, but the plastic. I wasn’t sure it would work without breaking the connector until it precariously gave way from the board.

    justinlyon - 답글

    Mid-2015 they lift up

    Aaron - 답글

    What's the best way to reinsert the cable into the socket when re-installing?

    footeking - 답글

  23. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 23 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 23 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 23 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard ribbon cable connector.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to push the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

    I can't fit the ribbon cable back in the slot. It was hard to take out a well. Any tips? I'm going crazy

    Jennifer Bart - 답글

    The trick is to align it so that it slides in perfectly straight and level with the surface of the logic board. It's made more difficult by the way the ribbon cable bends around the edge of the logic board, which puts tension on it and makes it harder to align. I usually position it with a finger on each side and then press gently on the top with a spudger or other tool to help level it out. It should slide into place reasonably easily at that point. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had the same probem. After googling patiently I stumbled upon the tip to use some tape to lead the cable and to apply a little more pressure than you might be comfortable with. I used a piece of tape (the brown kind you use for mail), put it on the cable and led the connector into its socket. In order get it all the way I really had to press on the cable from the top while at the same time dragging it forcefully into the socket. I had to repeat it three times until it was fully in, but it worked.

    Sergio Weigel -

    For me the angle of this picture was kind of confusing. Just to make sure it is clear, to anyone else (and they don’t break off the protective plastic piece for the pins like I did), the hinged flap is at the opposite end from the ribbon cable. Where the spudger is in the second picture kind of looks like the middle of the part, but no. From the angle these pictures are taken, it is the plastic piece closest to you. I don’t know why it took me so long to figure this out, and I feel like a bit of an idiot for not doing so more quickly. But hey, maybe reading this comment will help someone not make the mistake I did.

    Parker Young - 답글

    For my MacBook Pro mid 2014, the socket type was a lever. Looking at the battery, carefully lift it so it makes an angle of 90 degrees, then the cable was easily removable.

    Mike Bachman - 답글

    the tape actually helps remove the cable. Just hold the tape and pull it back towards the battery. The ribbon cable will slide right out. Easy. No tools needed.

    Pranav Singanapalli - 답글

    I’m so curious about the connector besides it, to the left. It wasn’t used at all, and what was the purpose of it?

    Anders thomasen - 답글

    This is a complete guess on my part, but I think it’s there for test purposes, before the logic board is actually installed. Given that it’s right next to the keyboard connector, it might be an easy/fast way for a test jig to connect a keyboard simulator without messing with the keyboard connector that is causing so much trouble for all of us… :-)

    yeliab -

    Same as in

    STEP 12

    the right fan ribbon - disconnect cable ZIF socket.

    Remark :

    Here is video how to open the ZIF socket. https://youtu.be/MQbqpWkCz94?t=360

    Ketut Sandiarsa

    KRIS - 답글

    Irinonically pulling up the adhesive also flipped up the retaining clip. Not sure if that was supposed to happen, but that was me experience, lol.

    David Smith - 답글

    The adhesive of the tape covering the top of the keyboard ribbon cable connector is no longer sticking. Does anyone have any ideas on how to get it to stick back on there?

    christian araya - 답글

  24. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 24 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up out of its socket.

    After this step I think the author must add a connector that is not mentioned (visible on step 18 and 19), between de SSD connector and the GPU (I suppose)

    Quique García - 답글

    The only connector I see at that location is the speaker connector—scroll up two steps from here and you’ll find instructions for disconnecting it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I agree with Quique…there’s another connector, running toward the battery, visible in slide 19. 6-wire, immediately adjacent to SSD connector.

    Joel Black - 답글

    The picture above looks slightly different than my Late-2013 MBP. The grey sticker with 4R7 is further to the side.

    justinlyon - 답글

    justinlyon: Different placement of some parts on the logic board is normal with different logic board speeds, and differences between the Late 2013 and Mid 2014 logic boards.

    johnsawyercjs - 답글

  25. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 25 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    macbook has been rotated 180 degrees here

    Costantino - 답글

  26. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 26 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

    I may have made the mistake you warned about: “Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.” is there a way to replace what was broken?

    William McEntee - 답글

  27. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 27 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 27 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    Be extremely careful in this step as the pins of this cable are EXTREMELY fragile. The leftmost pin bent over the neighboring one and its tip broke which lead the display to not work at all!

    Thanks God, I could realign it again and the display got on again :)

    When removing this cable pull it backwards by holding the hinge from its middle. DO NOT WALK THE CABLE FROM THE SIDES as this leads to breaking the terminal pins like what happened with me. When the cable has never been removed before, it behaves like something glued so when you try to walk it from one side, it seems to not move, which leads you to automatically push harder causing the pins on the terminals to bend or even break.

    Michael Azer - 답글

    I don’t know why, but my 15” Late 2013 had some sort of protector covering the lock, so I used tweezers to grab the thing and pull up the cable lock and it worked seamlessly.

    Rafael Pérez - 답글

  28. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 28 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near the MagSafe 2 connector.

    • The location of this screw may vary between models.

    This may be a matter of a 2.3GHz vs a 2.6GHz board, but on mine the raised-head screw - and the rubber cover - are on the other side of the black metal whatever it is, about centered relative to the cable connector to its left.

    jerryl - 답글

    same thing for me too.

    William Corwin - 답글

  29. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 29 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:

    • One 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 5.5 mm silver, raised-head T5 Torx screw

    • Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 3.8 mm silver T5 Torx screw

    There is another screw near the yellow one, the 5.5 mm silver, raised-head T5 Torx screw. I had to remove that too rather than force things.

    Simon Anthony - 답글

    Notice that the silver 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw is the same one you were asked to remove on step 21.

    Rafael Pérez - 답글

    it should be noted that the silver 3.8 screw (blue) is actually the 3.5 screw from step 21 if you already removed it!

    Jessica Dempsey - 답글

    Any suggestions on how to find a tiny screw that fell into the works? I dropped the 2.5 mm T5 Torx screw, and haven’t found it yet.

    William McEntee - 답글

  30. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 30 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 30 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro.

    • You may need to slide the logic board a few millimeters to the left in order to get clearance for the ports along the right edge of the board.

    • Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board.

    • Disconnecting the MagSafe 2 connector can be difficult. If you are only removing the logic board to temporarily get it out of the way, such as for a battery replacement, you may find it easier to simply remove the two 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board, and then remove the logic board and MagSafe board together.

    I wasn't able to get the magsafe connector off easily; it was easier to just remove the 2 screws holding the magsafe port in place, then disconnect it after the the logic board was removed.

    Derek Gelormini - 답글

    Completely agree. I just did the same.

    ChrisMBP -

    Same here. Removing the MagSafe screws should also be included.

    Christopher Hofmann -

    Agreed, after reading your comment I also simply removed the magsafe connector.

    Bruno Essmann -

    Hello, i did it the same, and it was more easy after that.

    SebioJazz -

    Agree, just did the same. It is safer.

    Pantelidis Pantelis - 답글

    100% agree, recommend updating this article to suggest removing the mag safe connector at the same time and save the hassle and potential damage trying to remove the connect from the logic board. far easier and safer to simple remove the two screws and lift out the mag safe connector at the same time as the logic board.

    calum.h - 답글

    Confirmed, I removed the screws of the magboard so the whole magboard was removed together with the logic board at the same time (MacBook Pro mid 2014).

    Mike Bachman - 답글

    My logic board is stuck on the audio, USB, and TB connectors and the chassis. Turned out it was connectors near the battery connector catching the logic board.

    Joseph Gorse - 답글

    There’s one more connect next to the SSD socket, that I can’t find mentioned, and is hard to disconnect.

    Steven DeRose - 답글

    Yes… @StevenDeRose! I had a really hard time getting that connector off because I couldn’t figure out the release mechanism. I ended up prying the connector off the board. %#*@. I guess it’s a speaker connector!!!! Major flaw in the instructions….!!!

    Peter Kaczkowski - 답글

    Rather important note: I have this model (Retina, 15”, Mid-2014, MacBookPro11,3) and the entire guide worked up until this step. What failed? Somehow, my 2014 model had the 2015’s headphone jack. Mid-cycle update, perhaps?

    So rather than lift the logic board out as shown, I had to lift the right edge and pull it away from the left edge (backing the headphone/USB/TB/MagSafe ports out of their bays, if you will). And just like in the photos from the 2015 guide, the headphone port came along, attached to the logic board, unlike how this guide seems to show the headphone port remaining behind.

    Hope this helps anyone else confused! If you get here and can’t seem to lift/rotate the logic board out as shown, try popping over to the 2015 guide and scroll down to that respective section, then pop back here once the board is out!

    Justin - 답글

    weird… same thing here…

    Gabriel Lage -

    Thanks for this tip. Super helpful!

    Jackie Malling -

    Thanks, Justin! Without your comment I wasn’t able to progress.

    Laszlo Varga -

    I found it tricky to reinstall the logic board to its proper position. Make sure no cables get clamped, e.g. the keyboard backlight cable which I oversaw the first time.

    It also helps to pay attention to exact alignment of the headphone jack, and to all screw positions.

    Karl Müller - 답글

    I found I had to lift the logic board like 15 degrees to unhook the thunderbolt ports from the case. Justin is right, go look at the 2015 one and then come back!

    Maxfield Feigelman - 답글

    I insisted in removing the connector from the board and I sort of helped myself using the Jimmy tool that is sold by iFixit and, being careful enough, one can get this done without any damage to any of the parts.

    Rafael Pérez - 답글

  31. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 31 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 31 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 31 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.

    • While the logic board and fans are removed, use a can of compressed air and a soft, non-static brush to remove dust and other debris from the upper case and the logic board, particularly from the fan exhaust openings along the rear edge of the upper case.

    • When reinstalling the motherboard, make sure all cables, and the two rubber heat sink/fan covers, are visible and not trapped under the motherboard.

    • Second photo, clockwise from top: battery, right speaker, keyboard backlight, AirPort/camera, display, microphone, left speaker, keyboard, and trackpad.

    A little “scotch tape” can be used to hold the various cables out of the way. Then the replacement board almost falls into place.

    David White - 답글

    Now that I’m done re-assembly, I wish I had paid attention to the second image where all the cables that need to come above the logic board are highlighted in red. I took me three tries of screwing in the logic board in before I properly accounted for all of them

    Albert Einstein - 답글

    I’d not even seen that pic until I came here to add my comments. Very good point !

    Simon Anthony -

    Careful: The picture shows nine red boxes, but if you just count, you might miss a cable, because there actually are ten of them. The I/O board data cable may not be at risk of getting stuck under the board, so it’s entirely logical to not put a box around it, but if you simply count loose cables before putting the screws back in, you will easily count it while missing another less prominent cable (like the keyboard backlight connector, which can be easy to overlook).

    Lars - 답글

    When re-inserting the board it is important to make sure that the tiny clips on the USB and DVI ports are on top of the aluminum housing lip. If they are under it, then it is not possible to move the board over toward the DVI port side….

    Jurgen - 답글

    When putting the board back in, double check that tape that covers the keyboard ribbon cable. I thought I had it over the board but it was just the tape over the board, not the cable.

    Austin Hodges - 답글

    I did the same thing.

    Shane -

    I thought this was a guide for the battery only?

    Handy to have this extra info, I was confused at first, until I started reading the comments. :)

    Cary B - 답글

  32. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement, Speakers: 32 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement, Speakers: 32 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Remove the following three screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Lift the left speaker out of the upper case and set it aside.

    • The speaker is secured to the case with some light adhesive.

    On my MBP there was an adhesive holding the speakers down. So, "lifting" was not exactly accurate.

    Fred Anderson - 답글

    Yeah there’s a tiny smidgen of glue around the speaker itself. I just slowly put force on it and it ripped off quite easily.

    Jer - 답글

    I have A1398 15 inch , need to replace or fixed left speaker but i can’t find One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw(yellow one), any idea what to do here?

    Biswajit Patra - 답글

    Same question as Biswajit, I can’t find the 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw (yellow one) on my mid 2012 MBP...

    Daniel Gandolfo -

    can you get too the speaker without taking the logic board first

    gianguyen1991 - 답글

    How it possible to get speaker out if system without taking the logic board first?

    Biswajit Patra -

    I only removed the 10 screws and the back panel, the 5 speaker’s screws (without removing the speakers), and the two battery screws, and managed to remove the battery package without undoing anything else. I used a member card (credit card type) to loosen the adhesives under the batteries.

    To remove the rest of the glue, I soaked it with something called Label Off from Biltema (Nordic). Finally, I used methylated spirit (rødsprit) to clean it all up and let it dry for 5 minutes before assembling the new battery pack.

    Andreas H. Parlow - 답글

    Yeah, it seems that all this complexity is just about protecting the speakers from the acetone… a different solvent might have saved me a LOT of work, and damage to my speaker connection.

    Peter Kaczkowski - 답글

    The speakers may stick so be prepared to gently force any adhesive free.

    Eddie Reyes - 답글

    @pkay What is so bad about getting acetone near the speakers? Assuming we're a little careful and it evaporates before we switch on again. It won't melt them or something?

    Richard - 답글

  33. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 33 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 33 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Remove the following three screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Remove the right speaker from the MacBook Pro.

    • The speaker is secured to the case with some light adhesive.

    My speaker wire was wedged under the edge of the battery. I proceeded to step 35 and removed the two battery screws. This freed up the cable.

    Fred Anderson - 답글

    Mine was stuck too, and I did what Fred did and waited to step 35 to try and remove the cable. It turned out not to be wedged under anything, but just glued in place.

    Chapman Harrison - 답글

    I used the flat spudger to loosing the glue underneath the speaker to remove it.

    KC89 - 답글

    My left Speaker makes ugly noise. do I really have to do all the steps or is it possible to just remove the speaker… I guess, it’s necessary.

    Gerd Herzog - 답글

    The speaker has quite a lot of plastic that goes under the board at the top end. There is no option but to remove the covering parts. The notes show which steps can be skipped.

    Simon Anthony -

    I forgot to run the speaker wire the motherboard. Can it create interference and make the speakers croate?

    Riccardo Nerani - 답글

  34. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement, Battery: 34 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the battery board.

    I also skipped from step#4 to step #34. I was very careful with the adhesive remover application to keep it from oozing into the speakers and other components by keeping the MB tilted and let gravity do the work. I also took the precaution of protecting display with aluminum foil. I used a plastic putty knife as well to help dislodge the battery cells. Removing adhesive remnants was a PITA. I used the plastic putty knife & liquid adhesive remover to scrape that stuff off. Full process took about 1 HR. Currently calibrating battery. Looks like this repair was a success!

    Macrepair SF - 답글

    I wish i read this comment 2 hours ago….

    David Pearce -

    It is not so easy to reintall the battery board, i had to push the battery hard.

    I am not completely satisfied

    Pantelidis Pantelis - 답글

    Steps 5-33 are not really needed if you are careful with the speakers, not to spill the fluid onto them. It saves a lot of time and potential dangerous operations. I did it without any problem.

    Cristian Caprar - 답글

    Perfect process_ many thanks. Runing back well_

    Alain BECTARD - 답글

    at this point, having skipped removing All The Things and fresh off step 4, i pried up the battery with a couple plastic cards. harrowing but less harrowing than the alternative. i was being careful not to press in ways that could harm my display. it took patience and was a huge pain but it worked pretty quickly. cleaned up the remaining adhesive with 70% isopropyl alcohol.

    elyze - 답글

  35. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 35 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.

    • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

    If you got to this step just to realize you don’t have aluminum foil at hand, consider using a (clean) wrapping paper from a bag of snacks.

    Lars - 답글

    I think this step could have come a lot sooner.

    Skylar Bolton - 답글

    It's to do with the the liquid adhesive remover, when replacing the battery.

    The foil is only for this point in the guide. :)

    Cary B -

    Maybe it is safer and easier to remove the screen completely?

    maiksicks - 답글

    Safer? Probably. Easier? Not at all.

    maccentric -

  36. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 36 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 36 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up at a slight angle, using a sturdy foam block or book.

    • In the following steps, you'll apply liquid adhesive remover to the right (outer) edge of the battery. Keeping this side of the MacBook Pro elevated will help the adhesive remover flow underneath the battery.

  37. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 37 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 37 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

    • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about possible skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

    ACHTUNG: Die im Kit enthaltenen Einmal-Handschuhe bieten nur einen bedingten Schutz gegen Aceton (Durchbruchzeit etwa 10 Minuten)!

    Eine höhere chemische Beständigkeit gegenüber Aceton haben Schutzhandschuhe aus Butylkautschuk.

    ___ - 답글

  38. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 38 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 38 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 38 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

    • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

    • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

    • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

    • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

    • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

    I did not use the adhesive remover. I found that the guitar pic, when forced, could go through the adhesive. It was not long enough, so using a credit card’s corner and forcing it slowly in, and back and forth, I was able to break the adhesive. I assisted this with a very fine fishing line (dental floss would be better) and a sawing motion under the battery. I did not use hard force. I just took my time and kept lifting up on the battery.

    There will be residual adhesive remaining on the computer’s chassis from the battery.. For the most part, this can be removed by a combination of using the card or iFixit guitar pic and pushing against the remaining adhesive. Working at with the fingers will complete the job.

    Just take your time….

    Larry_Rymal - 답글

    Do not be afraid to use the adhesive remover to loose the battery and the more the better. The wetter the adhesive is, the easier it will release with either the cards or the picks. It will also make it easier to remove any adhesive that is left after removing the battery pack

    Steve Rowe - 답글

    The fixit kit I got had a sharp piercing needle by the bits in the screwdriver works perfect to puncture the adhesive top!

    John Price - 답글

  39. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 39 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 39 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly along the elevated edge of the outer right battery cell.

    • You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

  40. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 40 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 40 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 40 단계, 이미지 3/3
    이 단계에 사용된 도구:
    Plastic Cards
    $2.99
    구매
    • Slide one corner of a plastic card under the outer edge of the battery cell.

    • It may help to gently twist the card to open up a slight gap between the battery cell and the MacBook Pro's case.

    • Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the MacBook Pro's upper case.

  41. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 41 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 41 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Lift the battery cell to separate it from the MacBook Pro's upper case, but don't try to remove it.

    • Leave the plastic card underneath the battery cell to prevent it from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.

  42. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 42 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 42 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly along the elevated edge of the next battery cell.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

  43. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 43 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 43 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 43 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Slide one corner of your plastic card underneath the second battery cell.

    • Push the card underneath the second battery cell, and slide it side to side to separate the adhesive underneath.

    • Leave the plastic card underneath both battery cells (or flip them over) to prevent them from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.

  44. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 44 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 44 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 44 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • It's time to switch sides. Remove your book or foam block and place it under the opposite side of your MacBook Pro.

    • Repeat the procedure from the prior steps to separate the two battery cells on this side:

    • Apply your adhesive remover to the elevated edge of the outer battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate.

    • Work one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery cell, and slide the card fully underneath the battery cell to separate it.

    • Do the same for the adjacent cell.

    • Leave your plastic card in place or flip the battery cells over to prevent them from re-adhering during the following steps.

  45. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 45 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 45 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • With the left edge of your MacBook Pro still propped up, apply a few drops of adhesive remover down the center line between the two middle battery cells.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.

  46. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 46 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 46 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 46 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Slide one corner of a plastic card between the middle two cells, and under the elevated edge of the center-right battery cell.

    • Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place.

    • Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.

  47. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 47 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 47 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 47 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Flip the two de-adhered right-hand battery cells over the front edge of the MacBook Pro, if you haven’t already. This will allow access to the outside edge of the center cell.

  48. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 48 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 48 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Push one corner of a plastic card below the plastic battery frame and underneath the remaining adhered edge of the lower center cell.

    • Do not pry along the edge nearest the battery connector, or you risk damaging the keyboard ribbon cable.

    • Slide your card all the way under the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering.

    The warning about not damaging the keyboard ribbon cable references the cable that is below the rectangular (covered) circuit board that the battery connector comes out of. Below this covered chip (at the top-center of the two central battery packs), the keyboard ribbon cable runs over a small edge and down to where the track pad is. The black cover that the battery packs sit on protects the track pad and this ribbon, but it’s still VERY possible to damage or otherwise destroy the ribbon cable. I would recommend staying away from a 2cm^2 area at the very top-center of the two central battery packs (closest to the battery/main board connector). This will help prevent the plastic cards from suddenly breaking through the glue and striking the ribbon cable if you apply too much force.

    Patryk - 답글

  49. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 49 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 49 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Remove the first plastic card that you inserted under the center-right battery cell.

  50. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 50 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 50 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Remove your book or foam block.

    • With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up once again.

  51. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 51 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 51 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover between the two center battery cells, so that it flows underneath the remaining battery cell.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.

  52. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 52 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 52 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 52 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Slide one corner of a plastic card under the elevated edge of the final battery cell.

    • Push the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place.

    • Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.

  53. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 53 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Repeat the process you used on the center-right battery cell to finish separating the adhesive on the center-left cell:

    • Lift and flip the two outer battery cells to clear access to the remaining adhered edge of the center-left battery cell.

    • Slide your card all the way underneath the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering.

    • Remove the first card that you inserted under this battery cell in the previous step.

  54. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 54 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 54 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • With one plastic card underneath each of the two center battery cells, twist and lift both cards to fully separate the battery cells, together with the plastic frame and battery board, from the MacBook Pro.

    I have managed to slice through the trackpad cable on the final step of battery removal.

    Can the trackpad be replaced without having to replace the whole system case?

    Darrell Haslam - 답글

    Yes you can replace the track pad. there is an metal sheet that you’ll need to gently pry up, and a couple screws that hold the track pad. fixit does sell the part.

    allenhild - 답글

    When removing the final battery cells I accidentally pulled up the trackpad base as well. I didn’t realize I had done this until the new battery was installed and clicking on the trackpad wasn’t working. Fortunately I was able to remove the trackpad base from the old battery and carefully lift the new one to slide it back in. Just something to watch out for.

    Jason Wells - 답글

  55. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 55 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014 Battery Replacement: 55 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Lift and remove the battery.

    • Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

    • Otherwise, soak each strip of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with a plastic tool. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient. While scraping, take care not to damage the trackpad cable.

    • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

    • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place. If any additional films/liners are present that weren't on your original battery, remove them now.

    • Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

    Opération effectuée ce jour.

    Ai suivi pas à pas toutes les étapes, c’est LONG, mais c’est BON !

    Merci pour le tutu TRES éclairant.

    H Max - 답글

    HELP !!!

    Ai un souci : malgré cette manipulation (ci-dessous) et le reset SMC, la batterie passe de 47% à 7% subitement : que faire ???

    Merci

    Calibrez votre nouvelle batterie avant de l'utiliser : Chargez-la à 100%, puis laissez-la charger encore au moins deux heures. Utilisez votre appareil normalement jusqu'à ce qu'il s'éteint à cause d'une batterie vide. N'oubliez pas de sauvegarder votre travail à temps. Attendez au moins 5 heures, puis rechargez la batterie à 100% sans interruption.

    H Max - 답글

    Bonjour,

    Je suis désolée d’apprendre que la batterie ne fonctionne pas comme prévu ! Si vous l’avez achetée chez iFixit, adressez-vous au service client qui se fera un plaisir de vous aider.

    Bonne journée,

    Claire (iFixit EU)

    Claire Miesch -

    One note from my mid-2014 15” MBP. There is a sheet of black plastic that must be removed from the old battery and installed in between the track pad and the new battery. If you don’t move this over the track pad won’t be able to click.

    chris160 - 답글

    Battery works great but I don’t know if I damaged trackpad or I just need to open and realign. Adhesive remover got under metal plate behind trackpad. So metal plate came up. I cleaned and put back but I did not glue in place.

    there is a small hole in metal plate - what is it supposed to align to? (No screws came from it)

    below comment mentioned a piece of plastic. Plastic under the two center battery packs is adhered to the packs, so I don’t think I can get it up without tearing it.

    “One note from my mid-2014 15” MBP. There is a sheet of black plastic that must be removed from the old battery and installed in between the track pad and the new battery. If you don’t move this over the track pad won’t be able to click.

    chris160 - 08/19/2019”

    Some guidance (because I’m not happy about pulling the battery out again), is appreciated. Thank you

    Lisa -

    I really appreciate this tip! My 15-inch, Mid 2014 MBP had a metal plate but it was exactly where you said it would be. I would have completely missed it if not for this comment, thanks!

    Adam G -

    As other commenters noted there is (was!) a plate between the battery and trackpad. Mine was a metal plate but others have said theirs was plastic. Mine was damaged (bent) when it came out with the battery. I put everything back together without realizing I was leaving it out. I am not sure it's purpose. I am having no issue with computer or trackpad, the replacement appears to be a success. I wonder if a problem may occur over time without that plate in place, however.

    elyze -

    After commenting that I had left the piece out, I opened the macbook back up and put it back.. I realized if nothing else it is between the battery adhesive and the trackpad cable, protecting that cable, and it's probably Not Good for it to be adhered directly to the battery.. luckily the battery adhesive was still not very set and it was easy enough to pry back out. I had to take it all the way out to fit the metal plate back in. Took me another hour or so,

    The metal plate was a little bent as I had mentioned, and there was a lot of balled up adhesive from the battery and on the other side a different kind of thin clear adhesive that i scraped off as much as i could and rubbed off the rest with alcohol. I pressed it down flat and some of the old adhesive helped keep it stuck down. You can tell which way it goes by making the hole align to the position you see in the photo in the guide, and note that the lip on the one side goes down. Up and running again, it is a success.

    elyze -

    Re: Mid-2014 15” MBP…

    Soak a paper towel with adhesive remover, and lay it over the residual adhesive in the METAL parts of the cse, and you can remove much more easily (try razor blade). On plastic trackpad base, use plastic tool.

    Also, the torx screw in the center of the trackpad base is your click adjustment. You may want to calibrate that BEFORE putting in the new battery.

    MFMauceri - 답글

    Removing the logic board is completely unnecessary in my opinion!

    The risk of damaging the board and its components by removing it is much greater, than spilling adhesive remover over the board - if applied correctly.

    To be on the save side, use some paper to cover the logic board and “seal” it of with some electrical tape or something else.

    Then simply apply some adhesive remover periodically along the tip of the included spatula and carefully work your way under each cell of the battery-pack.

    Works great and the pack is removed in under 10 minutes!

    Solution Clinic - 답글

    EXACTLY ! it is SO stupidly risky to remove all this. Who the HECK wrote this guide?!? Thank God I checked on youtube and found guys who did NOTHING of these steps and simply removed the battery in under 1 h.

    Silly Billy -

    100% agree. I stopped at the first logic board piece thinking I was missing something. My adhesive was already loose due to heat and expanding batteries so I was able to pry it up without any issue. Glad I didn’t start removing everything first!

    Joseph Costello -

    If you ever need to remove the logic board etc, you'll be thankful for this step.

    I was confused at first thinking where the hell is the battery removal guide, LOL.

    It isn't clear from the title and the logic board etc should be its own guide. :)

    Cary B -

    Please add the trackpad replacement to this video. I replaced the trackpad and the click doesn’t work so there must be something I missed.

    Catherine Learoyd - 답글

    Battery removal was really easy on a mid 2014 model. Nicely written section. One thing noted was the trackpad. It is a stainless steel metal plate vs. being plastic. Secondly, the interesting aspect is the entire plate is coated with something. It is not from the battery adhesive strips. This appears to be either an adhesion promoter or, it is a non-conductive coating used for anti corrosion or, possibly to prevent shorting across the two cell pouches when used as a possible failsafe mechanism.

    This coating however, is easily dissolved with Acetone. I don’t know if the 2013 model or early 2014 model sports this design but, a mid-2014 model, SN C02P67C1G3QC, has the stainless steel trackpad underside.

    To the user who informed people to place paper over the logic board, that is a very bad idea due to ESD reasons. Paper is an ESD generator and can induce failure into the CCA components. Please use an ESD bag - in particular, the silver colored shielding bags and use ESD safe tape as tape is a huge ESD generator.

    Christopher McKenna - 답글

    Hi, I replaced my batteries on my MacBook Pro and I didn’t do most of the risky tasks listed. To remove the batteries I used 1mm steel wire with pieces of wood wrapped round either end to act as handles. The wire acted like a wire cheese cutter. No glue remover was required and the device worked remarkably well.

    Clarence McAteer - 답글

    After reading through this very informative guide & having played with IE repaired many Macbook Pros since day 1 I decided not to remove all the hardware… Do I recommend this for the fait of heart No let me repeat NO!!! I happen to be in the Philippines at the time & the village I was in is a long ways from anywhere, I did get a new battery that was a real blessing… The old battery had swelled up no track pad response, after removing the screws the bottom cover popped up close to 1/2” After unplugging the batt I started at the corner edges & with credit card + few drops of coconut oil on the edge “use an expired 1 if you have it” ;-) I slowly peeled the battery packs on both sides until I made it to the track pad then was able to use the corner of the card to work the batt up & out taking my time to peel off the rest of the old adhesive before inserting the new batt… Making sure all fit well with bottom cover, all is good reset the SMC up & running…

    Pete DiSandro - 답글

    Bonjour

    Remplacement fait ce jour. Absolument pas besoin de tout enlever. On déconnecte la prise de la batterie et j’ai utilisé une mini spatule de platrier à bout rond pour décoller la batterie + les cartes en plastiques fournies dans le kit. Par contre, il faut y aller très délicatement, et cellule par cellule en prenant son temps. Une bonne demi heure pour décoller les éléments, et autant de temps pour nettoyer tous les résidus de colle avec spatule et dissolvant fournis dans le kit. 90 euros + un peu de temps à la place des 479 euros demandés par Apple!!!! Une merveille, merci!!

    Benjamin morel - 답글

    Kit arrived as advertised.

    First almost-issue I had was, the adhesive remover must have been in a pressurized environment; probably shipped by air. As soon as I cut the front part off at least a third of the content came blasting out…Thankfully I cut over the garbage can so it went flying out in a safe direction. So be aware when you cut open the container! It could all end up over your board!

    After removing the battery, to get rid of the residue glue in the machine, lay your machine out flat, drop some remover in and let it sit for 2 mins. Use the flat side of the blue tool to scrape it all together and then wipe it up. Think snot.

    Second almost issue I had was, the cable between the battery and connector was too long, by about 1/8th of an inch. I had to insert the battery lower part, connect to the board, and then drop the battery in the rest of the way, slightly bending the cables.

    Make sure your battery screws are lined up before you let it settle in place.

    Patience is all you need, and 45 mins.

    Johnny Baben - 답글

    Steps 5-33 are not really needed if you are careful with the speakers, not to spill the fluid onto them. It saves a lot of time and potential dangerous operations. I did it without any problem.

    Cristian Caprar - 답글

    Did I damage my trackpad?

    New Battery works great but old trackpad doesn’t.

    adhesive remover got under metal plate under center two battery packs. I cleaned it and replaced plate but did not glue it down. I noticed a small hole in metal plate but couldn’t see what it is supposed to align to. The below comment mentions a piece of plastic under the two center packs. The only plastic I saw was still stuck on the battery packs and it is unlikely I can remove it in one piece.

    “One note from my mid-2014 15” MBP. There is a sheet of black plastic that must be removed from the old battery and installed in between the track pad and the new battery. If you don’t move this over the track pad won’t be able to click.

    chris160 - 08/19/2019”

    some guidance please - can I realign the trackpad without ungluing the battery? Is the metal plate not supposed to be in contact with the battery…? Thank you

    Lisa - 답글

    I have to agree with the other commenters suggesting the use of fishing line to “saw” through the adhesive. I used 30 pound test braided fishing line. It worked really well and I was able to skip most of the steps. Watch out for the speaker connection. On my mid 2014 it is very close to the battery. It is easier to unhook the connector and then plug it back in after the battery swap. And be patient with the adhesive removal. I used cotton swaps and paper towels soaked in the adhesive remover to carefully clean some of the tougher spots.

    mark38 - 답글

    I’ve replaced my battery twice now (successfully) and didn’t do all the prep steps of removing things. You can start at step #38 just to remove the two screws holding the battery. Then you can jump to step #40 to begin working the battery free. The cards that I Fi it sells are good, but you can use any similar plastic cards of that size. I recommend sanding on side to a semi-sharp edge and then just working it SLOWLY, angling it back and forth as you free up the battery modules one by one. Start from the sides and remove the two outer ones on each side (4 total). Then work on the middle 2. Be patient and they will slowly release.

    if you need to, you can just use rubbing or denatured alcohol to soften the glue strips… the alcohol is pretty harmless to all components, but use it sparingly (use an eye-dropper). Once the battery is out, you can just rub any remaining glue strips off and clean the aluminum case thoroughly with the alcohol. I don’t recommend using wire or anything metal throughout the process.

    Bigh - 답글

    Part 2:

    Apple and others use a ridiculous amount of tape to hold the battery in place… it’s not going anywhere. I remove all the rape from new batteries by just rubbing it (it will eventually roll off) and I use my own double-stick tape… mine is 1/16” wide, so I use several strips on each battery, spaced about 3/8” apart. That provides plenty of hold for the batteries, and makes it super-easy to remove them if you need to do this again like me (after-market batteries seem to plump quickly… like in three years).

    If you approach it this way, the repair goes from being “difficult” to being one of the easiest repairs I’ve ever done. Most importantly, you don’t risk breaking any of the delicate connectors that the guide takes you through… you only deal with the battery. And you can use materials easily found around the home or at Home Depot. The key is to go slowly and clean everything thoroughly with alcohol. I did my second replacement last night and it was a breeze.

    Bigh - 답글

    Great guide, thank you!

    Unfortunately, my fans are running at max all the time now (Macbook pro mid 2014 Retina). I reset the SMC (got even confirmation with the light on the MagSafe), but still: fans are starting to run to max during start-up and stay at max (Macbook stays absolutely cool though - no processes use much energy acc to Activity monitor). Any ideas? Thanks for your help.

    Daniel - 답글

    I found this project to be a very pleasurable process, fun even. Thankfully I didn’t know the difficulty rating was high until I was already in the middle of the battery change. It would probably discouraged me. I think the project was simple due to the superior quality of the repair guide. One of the best instruction guides I’ve ever used. What an amazing job. Thank you for making this self repair possible!

    Dave Hall - 답글

    Replaced the battery with relative ease. I recommend keeping track of which screws came out of which part/step #. AT the end, when we booted up the computer it kept showing a startup error (folder with a question mark). We checked the disk first aid and everything was fine. Were almost going to re-install the OS but it wouldn’t show the disk to install it onto. Took out the hard drive and put it back in and everything worked after that. Phewf!!

    Caitlin M - 답글

    After completing the whole complicated guide, my macbook turned on on battery power, but doesn't seem to accept any power from my MagSafe adaptor. The light is off or green, but won't charge the battery.

    Turned off the computer and reset the SMC. MagSafe light switched to amber, but computer won't turn on. Waited until MagSafe turned green after about 15 Minutes. Computer now turns on, but battery is still at 47%, didn't charge at all.

    Did I break anything?

    Sergio Weigel - 답글

    je viens de faire tout le tutoriel pour mon MacBook Pro retina 15 avec le kit iFixit : parfait. Le dissolvant fonctionne parfaitement. On arrive à décoller la batterie sans forcer. J'ai remonté la carte mère et tout fonctionne parfaitement.

    merci !!!

    Julien Niger - 답글

    Great guide, thank you. Worked like a charm!

    The one thing I did miss (despite the warning ;-) ) was to make sure all the cables where out in the open before installing the main board.

    Sven Dirks - 답글

    Great Guide - helped me to survive the 3.5 h to make it happen - thank you :-)

    marces - 답글

    I used a very sturdy and thin piece of string to "saw" the battery loose from the case. I am sure that is a very bad idea, but it worked for me.

    Bill Debevc - 답글

    This guide is AMAZING. While it is very comprehensive in the description of what to do, it should have also provided an alternative approach to battery replacement at the beginning of the guide. Had I known that it was possible to remove the battery without all of the risky removal of the motherboard, I would have seriously considered that approach. It boggles the mind as to the number of things that could have gone wrong. Thankfully, it all turned out well. The lesson is to read ALL instructions AND the associated comments for each step and gather data prior to performing repairs.

    🍎Technical Note:

    Be certain to align the screw holes of the new battery PRIOR to gluing it in place. Failure to do this minor thing could lead to an inability to properly attach it to the logic board. Luckily for me, there was a small amount of play in the battery cable that allowed it to realign into the proper position.

    Reginald Garrett II - 답글

    Finished the replacement, thank you for the great guide!
    However, next time, I would carefully remove the glue like described without all the disassembly. I think one can damage much more by the whole procedure than by carefully working with the glue solvent.

    But once more, THANK YOU!

    Rainer Fehringer - 답글

    I would make this comment, reassemble the system completely before adding the battery. Make the battery installation the last thing you do. Don't be afraid to put some pressure on the battery connector when connecting it to the system board. It will take a strong push evenly across the connect and you will get a healthy snap when it goes into place.

    Steve Rowe - 답글

    J ai fait le remplacement de la batterie sans soucis, elle a bien marché avec la batterie achetée chez iFixit.

    Seulement 1 an après la batterie ne marche plus (santé à 55% et cellules gonflées). La qualité n est pas là !

    Julien Niger - 답글

    Bonjour @colums31,

    désolée d’apprendre que vous rencontrez un problème. Je vous conseille de prendre contact directement avec notre service client au support@ifixit.com (pour la boutique américaine) ou au eustore@ifixit.com (pour la boutique européenne et française), pour tester votre batterie.

    Claire Miesch -

    Great guide. Just successfully completed my battery replacement in just under 2 hours (going slowly and carefully). Managed not to break anything. A few thoughts:

    1. As per previous comments, skip from step 4 to step 34. Completely disassembling your MacBook is too extreme and risky if all you want to do is replace the battery.

    2. I removed the old battery by levering the cells up using a large flat head screwdriver. It worked for me, but I'm not sure how safe this is: some of the cells bent as I was doing it and I was a bit worried about causing a puncture, short circuit and/or battery fire.

    3. I don't know why everyone is so obsessed with removing all traces of the old adhesive using solvents. Most of the adhesive came off with the battery, and I removed most of what remained using a spudger and my fingers. I didn't use any solvents.

    4. Before inserting the new battery, take a moment to adjust the degree of click of the trackpad using the screw in the middle of it, underneath the battery.

    Peter Gray - 답글

    Finished replacing my battery. Thankful for all the advice in the comments along with the kit. I made a cheese slicer with surveyor/masonry twine and two dowels for handles. Stuffed the twine under one cell at a time and worked it down until each cell was freed. Didn't have a helper and if you have a helping hand to hold the machine, that's useful. My kit's battery had a thick'ish blue piece of plastic that also had a film over that. Wasn't sure right off if the plastic was needed, but realized there was no adhesive under the film. There was adhesive under the plastic, so I assumed the plastic plate needed to come off and that was correct. Would have been nice to see the instructions clear that one up for a smooth finish installation. Once reassembled, the unit started charging right away, the trackpad worked, and no smoke! :-) Thanks, iFixIt!

    Randy Cox - 답글

    One more vote for going from Step 4 to 34 and NOT disassembling the guts of the machine but proceeding to old battery removal. Also one more vote for using twine/wire to cut through the old adhesive under the batteries. The biggest thing to watch out for is not damaging the trackpad cable which is right in between the two center battery packs, but I think you are more likely to damage it if you are poking around with the plastic card and adhesive method more than the twine/wire method. I never did get all the adhesive off the underside of the trackpad, but hopefully not a problem. The adhesive on the sides, attached to the case came off easily. Thanks to all who comment and add to these fine instructions!

    Steven Bulmer - 답글

결론

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

다른 324명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.

Jeff Suovanen

회원 가입일: 08/06/13

427,010 평판

안내서 259개 작성하였습니다

iFixit iFixit 회원

Staff

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댓글 149개

I just replaced my battery successfully using a modification of this method: follow step 1-4, then 34, then remove the battery pack using thread (or dental floss as in my case), as shown in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55... . If you use dental floss, make sure you at least quadruple it to have enough strength, and tie around two screwdrivers at the ends, otherwise it can be pretty painful. Finally, use a very small amount of the adhesive remover liquid to help fully remove the adhesive strips (making sure it doesn't go anywhere else), and install the new battery (step 54)!

Marino Pagan - 답글

Yeah, this method works great. Just wear gloves or your fingers might die.

Thank you for this recommendation!

felix schaetzler -

Yeah, I did the same thing, steps 1-4, then 34, then removed the battery with a mid-weight nylon cord. The nylon cord has just enough slip so that you do not need adhesive remover, it glides through the glue with a firm pull. I clamped a 1/2 scrap of wood to my workbench, placed the laptop behind the clamped wood as a stopper, which gave me a sturdy platform to pull against (it’s not quite as easy if you try to hold it down yourself, or even with another person). Just be sure to pull straight back and keep the cord low.

I think the steps in this post are insane, and you risk damage to some vital parts that you shouldn’t even be touching just to remove the battery. But YMMV.

Michael Gerfin -

Late to the party, but putting the laptop at an angle, using 99%iso alcohol dissolves the adhesive really well. As well as a plastic pry bar from one of my tablet kits. Now, i just need to wait until the new battery from here comes so i can swap out the explodium batteries.

Robert Kuhn -

SOMEONE BUY THIS MAN A BEER! Wow. That hack worked perfectly. I used a strand from some paracord I had lying around and it took me about 5 min to do this whole thing! So… thank you my man.

Michael Chance -

I used a combination of that method with the one detailed here. TL;DR: Use some good nylon string to get through a lot of the adhesive at a low angle. But dip a credit card in 99% isopropyl and use that to deal with the most stubborn parts. Personally I felt that the adhesive closest to the front of the unit was the hardest to get the string to cut through. This worked even though the battery was swelling, but it felt like a risky procedure and it’s really unfortunate that Apple designed the batteries in this way.

GeneralKire -

This was a winner. Saved me quite a bit of time. Still took a while to do the whole thing start to finish - an hour maybe. But not having to remove all that extra stuff was amazing. I went with dental floss (4 strips combined together for strength), tied to a screw driver on each end. That worked well for me.

Matthew Pennings -

It works greatly! I also did like that. No need to tear down other parts. Just detach the battery directly from the 34th steps. I used the Loctite P-555 adhesive remover spray and plastic spudger. After spraying to the spudger, push the card underneath the battery cell softly. You can remove sticker easily.

venales -

I just replaced my battery and it's working fine!! But now all the right side of my mac won't work... HDMI, USB and CARD READER, but I'm sure i need to check it again I I'm sure forgot to connect the cable...I guess! but overall I dealt with it and I'm really proud. Thanks IFIXIT. I would send a firmer screw piece number 5 because it starts to peel off metal as soon as you start using it. But I really like your website and every guide you have are really well explained! Thanks a lot for making me save money to go to a store to have it fixed.

Gaston Dalmau - 답글

Indeed! There was a cable not connected !Works like a charm! Thanks again

Gaston Dalmau - 답글

Just finished the battery replacement following these instructions to the letter… at times I wanted to listen to some commentators that said x step wasn’t necessary or that doing something broke something else. Trust me- every step is necessary to do this right, and everything works just as it did before! Thanks so much for the excellent guide!

The airport card re-connection was the hard… but even more difficult was making sure all the connectors were not under the logic board before screwing it back down… I had to undo my work two times because I missed the back light connector and the track-pad ribbon cable!

Hints for those that tackle this themselves: The pictures of the screw removal were extremely helpful… print out the pictures of the steps where you remove screws and put the screws in the places where you removed them on the picture… OR draw boxes for the screw removal steps on a sheet of paper and lay the screws out in the relative positions that you removed them!

Eric Kitchens - 답글

Great tutorial! I recommend buying two T5 screwdrivers as I stripped one of them and thankfully I had a backup. I still had to drill one screw though.

Pete - 답글

I just did this using the string method. I dipped the string (cooking twine) into rubbing alcohol and went to work. I wore dishwashing gloves for grip. It took me less than 10 minutes with minimal effort, working slowly and carefully. The removal was very clean. You will need a pentalobe screwdriver to take off the bottom cover and a T5 screwdriver to remove the two torx screws that secure the battery. Installation was easy. Laptop is working! I have to say that this doesn’t look like an OEM part. It does work though.

Kim Nguyen - 답글

Very well written. My installation went very well until I discovered that the end of the data cable between the i/o board and the main board had come off. I had to go from steps 3-29 all over again to reattach it. But now it is all back together and working.

peteyx - 답글

Just made it. Took me 15 minutes. The hardest part was to remove the rests of adhesive after removing the battery.

I just needed the screwdriver and a 2-3mm tearproof thread. I first tried floss, but it was too flimsy. Turns out, thicker thread is better because you can apply much more force without cutting into your hands. With that it only takes seconds to pull one battery off, about 2 minutes for all 6. No chemicals required.

You also don’t have to unscrew all the things, just the bottom case and the two screws that hold the battery controller in place.

Stephan Hoyer - 답글

Great tutorial!! Thank you very much. I just finished working through this to replace the battery on my co-worker’s MacBook Pro, and everything worked as expected. Keep up the good fight, iFixit!

manwithfire - 답글

Guide was mainly well written. I was able to replace my battery in about 2.5 hours using this guide. I would recommend updating step 21 to remove one of the screws attached to the heat sink to help remove the I/O board and step 30 to remove the MagSafe screws before removing the logic board.

Christopher Hofmann - 답글

Looking at Marino’s comment from July 2017, I would like to get opinions, both pro and con, about skipping steps 5 to 23. I am replacing the battery only and some of the steps for removing various connectors sound a bit nerve racking.

Charles Larkins - 답글

A complete teardown like this is very risky unless you have a high level of confidence and experience with doing teardowns on integrated laptops, which often have narrower clearances and more fragile parts than older, bulkier style laptops. As you can see below someone who is Apple Certified and Comptia A+ has expressed having issues with this. In my opinion taking the laptop apart like this for this battery replacement is the last option. The first, if you have little experience is to have someone else do it. The second, if you have confidence with isolating the battery compartment safely for adhesive removal is to follow only the steps required for removing the battery itself, and the third is to follow this guide.

flournnoi -

Part 1: I bought a genuine Apple part for this and followed this document, using an antistatic mat and also iFixit tools. When I finished the Mac would not power up. It took it apart several times, went over everything and could not find a reason why it would not power up. Tried an SMC reset, the LED on the Magsafe charger changes from amber to green and then back to amber but the Mac still does not boot. You notice in the article that the battery is bonded to the top case , you need to use a solution to break the adhesion then carefully remove the battery ? Apple do not do this. They sell the top case as a complete unit and once you have removed the battery from the top case they class it as a third party or unskilled repair and they take no part in it. This means if you then go to an Authorised Service Provider they will quote stock price for any parts, this means the part they replace can not be sent back to Apple. Apple stores will flatly refuse to help you.

Bob Murray - 답글

Part 2: so now I have a mac that will not power up. Both Apple and the service provider have said I need either a new top case or a logic board. The charges for this are staggering, the Apple Store are simply not interested in helping. I asked the person I bought the battery from if they had experienced this before, I got it on ebay , and their response was pure aggression towards me so I did not pursue it any more. I am Apple certified and Comptia A+ so I have a lot of repair experience, just not ACMT. I have all the tools and patience to follow what I saw as something relatively simple.

My advise is beware before you attempt to follow this article because I was better off with a working Mac with poor battery performance.

Bob Murray - 답글

@bob_reno Sorry to hear this. It’s hard to know what might have gone wrong, but one possibility is the battery itself—we’ve seen many an unfortunate MacBook fried by sketchy eBay batteries. Given the response from the seller, I wouldn’t be surprised if this were the case. Thanks for sharing, and better luck with your next repair.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hello,

See step 9 of this guide.

I had the same symptoms as you. When I opened the case to investigate what I had missed, I discovered that I had installed the IO Board Cable backwards. After I disconnected the cable and reinstalled it in the correct orientation, the laptop booted without issues.

I advise that you check the orientation of your IO board cable. It should not overlap the blades of the fan.

Maybe you are having a different issue. I hope this helps.

Thomas Colley -

my experience was exactly the same - I put cable from step 9 wrong way - thanks to Thomas Colley its up and running now!

Martin Zápeca -

The riskiness level of this approach is way too high relative to the basic requirements of replacing the battery. This is pretty much a teardown which is not necessary for battery replacement. Yes, you will need to use some type of adhesive removal which is risky near the other components of the computer, but way less risky than this complete teardown.

flournnoi - 답글

There is no reason to basically dismantle the entire computer to remove the battery. The only explanation I can come up with for this idiocy is that iFixit is desperate for people to buy their fix kits rather than just a battery itself from any number of other vendors.

Ethan Payne - 답글

@ethanpayne The reason for doing it this way, as explained at the beginning of the guide, is that the solvent can damage the speakers—and it’s very difficult to get enough solvent under the battery without it contacting the speakers. To get the speakers out of the way, you have to first remove the logic board. If you prefer a different method, that’s fine—feel free to write your own guide. This guide is free, and no one is forcing you to buy our stuff.

Jeff Suovanen -

This is a beautiful teardown guide—but totally unnecessary if you just need to replace the battery. I was able to do so on a MBP mid 2014 15” just by passing a piece of mason’s twine under each section of the battery to cut the adhesive, which is really just double-sided tape. The remainder peeled off easily with a flat spudger. No solvent needed. I would have bought the battery and tools from iFixit but they wouldn’t ship to my location so I had to buy a battery on eBay. Works great. Total time around 20 minutes and no risky teardown of all those tiny fragile components, and no need to remove the logic board.

upcountry - 답글

I used this guide, as I always do for dismantling Apple products, to replace an inflated battery. If you have this issue, its still easy to do with a couple of minor differences. #1 - you’ll make life easier if you put some of the adhesive remover on the ends of the cards as you begin to remove the 4 middle batteries. Because the batteries are bloated, the edges (while more exposed) will require a bit more push to get underneath. And #2 - you cannot get the solvent in the middle of the 2 center batteries in most cases. This is where #1 comes in as you can get the adhesive remover into the exposed sides to allow the solvent to do its job. All in all, thats all that I needed to do in order replace my bloated battery with the new one. It works great!

Brad Stossel - 답글

Le kit complet et le tutoriel sont parfaits. Démontage et remontage en 1 h 30, sans soucis ni frayeur. Mais bien entendu, suivre strictement pas à pas ce tutoriel, aucune image n’est inutile !!!

Luc-Henri Fage - 답글

I just completed the battery replacement in my mid 2014 Macbook Pro retina with a bulging battery. I pretty much followed Marino Pagan’s suggestion from 07/06/2017! The video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55... gives you the basics, but I have a few suggestions.

1. Use the type of string shown in the video. Even with the bulging battery I had no issue getting the thicker string under each battery.

2. Don’t just pull both sides of string towards you really hard like shown in the video. I used a long piece of string and pulled somewhat gently from one side at a time, and towards the front at like a 45 degree angle. I pulled the string to one side, leaving enough to grab and pull back the other way. By alternating from side to side like this, the friction of the string and the minor amount of pull towards the front did all the work.

3. You have to do the same thing on the middle two batteries as well! The video cuts off with the poster not knowing what to do about them. Do the same string thing!

craig - 답글

I just replaced a battery using the string technique and it went great . Battery had over 1000 cycles, no bloating. I used the “thick” string like in the video - smooth multi-strand string that I use with a string level outdoors. I moistened the string with the iFixit solvent (a mix of IPA and acetone) and pulled it through with a gentle side to side motion. I had no problems with batteries sticking back down, though I initially used the cards to prevent it. Most of the residual tape pulled up cleanly, and I dissolved the residual adhesive with small amounts of solvent. The total amount of solvent I used was very small - the bottle is still nearly full (I didn’t check the level at the start, but it’s about 7/8 of the main bottle).

On one battery (central pair, left one) a piece of plastic unfolded to make it hard to get under, and the string dried out while I was doing that. Dry string is very hard to pull through, but just moistened with the solvent made it easy again.

lindensmith -

I just did a second battery replacement on an identical model using fishing line (30 lb test) and no solvent instead of the string and solvent. It went about the same - the fishing line cut through the adhesive tape maybe a little easier, but also requires a little more care because you can slice your fingers with it. I wrapped it around two short screwdriver stems. It helps to wind it up so you have only a short length to work with and use your thumbs to push the case while pulling the line. It went through the tape easily, but left it stuck a little harder so it took longer to remove the last bits. Isopropyl alcohol (91%) works almost as well as the acetone/isopropyl mix in the ifixit kit. Using the spudger to peel up the tape helps - a few pieces came up nearly intact with no residue on the case. Having done two now, I definitely think string/fishing line to separate the batteries is the way to go.

lindensmith -

Thorough easy to follow instructions. Thanks!

Melkamu Agonafer - 답글

I’ve completed the installation. I’ve stand in doubt if i should take the short way from the youtube ( that one without removing all parts). But i decided to play it safe, and done it like in this article, wit only one minor change. At Step 30, it’s said to remove magsafe connector, which it’s very hard to remove it, much simpler is to unscrew the magsafe entirely.

So, everything was ok. Thanks for the tutorial

manoleb - 답글

I just completed the install. I used the steps provided in this write up and experienced no hang ups. Install took about 2 very cautious hours and included a nice cleaning of the case following the removal of the Logic Board and Battery. Hoping for another 4 years with this computer - thanks Ifixit!

Timothy Baber - 답글

I’m about to embark on this marathon job, but I was wondering, for those of you who have a bloated battery, what is your cycle count at the time of needing to replace the battery. I use mine with it plugged into AC power most of the time, so I’m not charging discharging on a regular basis. My cycle count is only 113, when the battery should theoretically support up to a 1000. I’ve had my machine from new in Nov 2014, so its just over 4 years old. Is a bloated battery caused by low cycle count? Thanks.

Plastikfan - 답글

On a different model macbook I got a bloated battery from leaving it connected to the charger all the time and never discharging. I wasn’t traveling, so it never really got unplugged and discharged. The bloating isn’t necessarily from low cycle count as from extended periods staying on charge - it was replaced under warranty and they recommended taking it off charge and letting it run down at least once a month. The replacement has continued to function for many years.

lindensmith -

…. I should also note that as I don’t use the inbuilt track much, it took a long while to notice the bloating battery. It was probably boated at least a year ago, because I noticed that the click of the trackpad wasn’t as precise as it should be but I ignored it for some time.

Plastikfan - 답글

Did the upgrade last weekend. I can confirm the method with the twisted nylon utility line worked for me best. No need to remove all parts and no need to use any dis-solvent.

1. Watch the youtube videos how to place and pull the line

2. Discharge the batteries completely to be safe.

3. Work slowly and carefully without bending the batteries.

4. Once removed, clean the surface with IPA and place the new batteries in place

Took me around 2 hours in total and new batteries are working fine. Thanks iFixit!

niki1999 - 답글

Is there a case for this guideline to be updated and dramatically reduced to use the string method as shown on youtube rather than dismantling the entire machine and incurring all the risks that entails?

Plastikfan - 답글

I just finished and it’s working fine. I used the video suggested earlier in the comments - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55... I used fishing line and wore gloves. I did not use the solvent at all. I left peeled up the left over tape, but didn’t get all the residue up as I didn’t want to use chemicals and risk the electronics. The middle batteries are a little tricker to get the fishing line under, but you can do them one at a time, too.

John Quillen - 답글

I just changed the battery but used a couple strings soaked with the anti-adhesive liquid I stead of taking the whole thing apart. I didn’t want to risk breaking any connector or have troubles putting g everything back together.

It worked perfectly, I just cut my fingers with the string as the glue was hard to cut through/remove. But other than that, it went well, didn’t take much more than an hour and everything works perfectly again

Quentin Décaillet - 답글

There is a thin metal cover between the battery and the trackpad. It is very easy to accidentally pull it off with the batteries. Step 53 - when you slide the plastic card in from the outside edge, it’s quite easy to misjudge and get it under the cover.

If that happens you are likely to bend it into a pretzel and be unable to reinstall it. This seems to be fine. However - the new cells will have adhesive in the center of them that was meant to adhere to the metal cover. If you do not reinstall the metal cover because you bent it up, that adhesive will stick to the back of the trackpad and keep it from working - basically it will seem that the button is always depressed.

Obviously the best fix is not to accidentally pull up the metal cover - but if, like I did, you ruin it before you figure out that it wasn’t part of the battery assembly after all, my advice is to not remove the adhesive from the center of the two cells. Cut the backing material and only expose the outer edges.

steve - 답글

I used the thread-method, too. Thanks for the comments pointing to this. There’s really no need to disassemble all the boards!

I used a 2mm thread tied to two small wrenches so I could apply the necessary pulling force to cut through the adhesive. It also helps to fix a rest of some sort to the front of your work bench using C-clamps to have something to pull against when working the thread under the batteries.

My batteries had already started swelling and kept expanding after removing the bottom cover, so I didn’t really feel like prying them loose using the solvent method. Keep in mind to be extra careful when handling swollen batteries. They can ignite any minute when punctured. I suggest putting your macbook on a fire blanket so you can throw the side flaps over it quickly if anything goes wrong.

J. Scriba - 답글

Hi, I finished to replacement the battery, but I have two problem. The fans turn very strong and the the mac is very slow. I tried to reset the sms, but I haven’t solved it.

Could you help me?

Thank you

Daniele Peri - 답글

I solved the problem. The cable in step 9 was not well connected. Thank you for the guide.

Daniele Peri -

I also used the fishing-wire “cheese-cutter” method and recommend it! I performed steps 1-4, and used the garrote to free each cell away from the tape, then used q-tips dipped in acetone for adhesive residue cleanup. My original battery was swollen (trackpad wouldn’t click anymore). The swelling had already torn some of the tape, but what remained was still strong. Skipping full disassembly saved me a lot of worry and aggravation. The internal connectors are tiny, fragile and get brittle over time, I didn’t want to risk damaging them. The whole repair took about two hours (including photos and adhesive cleanup). I think it would have taken at least 6 hours if I’d attempted a full disassembly. I used an OWC-brand replacement battery. My MacBook Pro started right up first try! It took another twelve hours to properly condition the new battery (charge fully, discharge fully, sit for five hours, then charge fully again). My old mid-2014 15” retina MacBook Pro is as good as new again!

Donald Aehl - 답글

Just over a year ago I replaced the battery in our MacBook Pro (mid 2014) where I read the comments and saw it could be done without all 55 sections. The short cut worked just as well and the job was completed successfully.

Unfortunately the battery that came with the repair kit started swelling also after only 1-year and 4-months. That sucks. So here I am again replacing the battery once again, but this time I decided to take the long route just to have fun taking the laptop completely apart. It went well, and we are up and running again.

As an added note, I purchased my replacement battery on eBay this time as it was the exact same battery by Apple (made in China), and it was less than half the price as the ones sold on iFixit.com and it came with free shipping. Big savings.

Danny Williams - 답글

I just completed the replacement of my bloated batteries. The batteries were so bloated that the track pad stopped working, and the screws were very tight, making the removal of the bottom screws difficult. I followed three directions, and was able to complete the procedure in about 2 hours. I noticed my track pad and keyboard not responding. I had installed the replacement batteries using a little too much pressure. I opened up the MBP and noticed the center batteries were sticking to the trackpad. I pried up the centers and reassembled the MBP, and Now it works correctly.

johnchikahisa - 답글

Hello,

I change the battery few months ago, but I have a problem with the mouse because when the mac starts the arrow goes in jerks for about 30 seconds. I have the same problem when the mac return from stanby mode.

Could you help me?

Thank you

Daniele Peri - 답글

I did this in about 40 minutes (while also taking phone calls and sending email on my desktop). I took the bottom off, put a plastic bag between the keyboard and the screen. Then I tilted the MB up, hinge at the high point. I soaked the glue pads from the top edge with the solvent a few times, then was able to simply pry the battery segments up with the provided plastic cards. The only thing I removed was the battery itself and the bottom panel. The spudger was useful for getting the battery plug disconnected.

Christopher Livengood - 답글

I just replaced the old swollen battery and the new one is working fine!! and the trackpad is back!! I did it using the modification of this method, following step 1-4, then 34, then removing the battery pack using a thread to finally install the new battery, step 54. I used a shoe lace tied to two plastic sticks and moistened with some adhesive remover. Be patience and make sure the remover is not going anywhere else.

Thanks so much for the excellent guide!

Peter - 답글

I’m not using my Mac book Pro on battery, and now the battery is damaged. Do you know if I can remove the battery and use my Mac without it ?

thanks

dancharbit - 답글

I bought the battery from ifixit and replaced it according to these instructions. After everything was replaced correctly and carefully and I wanted to connect the new battery, some sparks came. Since then my macbook is completely broken and can't be repaired anymore, because the new battery caused a short circuit on the motherboard.

Vladimir Buser - 답글

Hallo zusammen…

Super Anleitung, super Akku… Aus- und Einbau war in einer Stunde erledigt. TOP Akkulaufzeit.. Jederzeit wieder…

Joerg Schoenitz - 답글

Dental Floss (doubled up) approached worked well for me also. I only used the adhesive remover to clean up the old glue left behind. I used cotton swabs soaked with the adhesive remover for the clean up. I followed steps 1 -4 and skipped ahead to step 34 and then skipped to step 55.

Robert Shuler - 답글

I did the upgrade and it worked fine except now 3 keys do not work on my keyboard.

any suggestions?

Brian

bwark - 답글

Success!

Recommend: MAGNIFYING Glass. DO zoom in on the photos in this article to understand exactly how each connector disengages.

MFMauceri - 답글

Just finished the battery replacement. I did the Step 1-4 method. Then with a little adhesive remover and some thin nylon string, I gently removed the battery from the case. Total time: about 20 minutes from start to finish.

waginc - 답글

I just made the change and everything works perfectly except the keyboard backlight ... Anyone know why it doesn't work anymore? The rest of the keyboard works fine. I have already tried to reset smc and nvram ...

Thanks YOu

swatix881 - 답글

I followed the instructions to the T. When I installed the replacement battery I purchased from I fixit, things seemed to be going well. I plugged in the computer, let it charge and when the system restarted, I was at teh log in screen. I noticed the top rows of letters and numbers were not working about 4 letters in from the left all the way to the right hand side of the keyboard. I was able to select the shutdown option, so I chose this. Unfortunately. that was the last time I saw any life from my MacBook Pro mid 2014 15”. I’ve tried numerous suggested keyboard combination fixes per apple but nothing is working. Help.

Seth Rivkin - 답글

AKKU-WECHSEL OHNE DEMONTAGE EINES EINZIGEN BAUTEIL’S!

Die Vorbereitungen für den Wechsel des Akku’s bleiben dieselben, wie in FIXIT beschrieben!

Für das Loslösen der einzelnen geklebten Akkuzellen verwendete ich den Klebstoff-Entferner von UHU und sprayte davon beidseitig auf den Randfläche einer Kreditkarte. Durch sukzessives hin- und herwiegen und gleichzeitigem Drücken der Karte löst sich allmählich der 1. Teil. Mit einer Saite von einer Violine von nur 0,2 mm Durchmesser kann man dem Lösen nachhelfen. Mit den übrigen Zellen verfährt man auf die gleiche Weise und entfernt schliesslich den kompletten Akku OHNE ein Bauteil zu demontieren in weniger als 1 Stunde. Die Klebstoffreste können mit Haushaltpapier und Nitroverdünner sehr gut entfernt werden.

adelbertpfister - 답글

Great, great tutorial! Everything is OK for me except that my HDMI port no longer seems to be working properly. I checked 3x the assembly. Everything is OK, the monitor is recognized but nothing is sent on the screen, I tried to change the resolution and the HERTZ but nothing changes. An idea ?

ZENITIQUE - 답글

SUCCESS! If let a little intimidated and was hesitant to start, but considering all the Apple Stores in my area are closed due to Covid and the suggested “approved” stores wanted $425-$500 to do the battery change, along with none of them reasonably close…I jumped in! Followed the directions 1-4 then skipped to 34 to the conclusion it was pretty easy. Done in just over two hours and 24 hours later my machine works great. Battery life (thus far) is restored, the computer is not heating up terrific! Let me just say if I can do this YOU can too! The fixit kit comes complete, just have on hand something to put removed parts in, pre-labeled is helpful. Us the aluminum foil as noted in the instructions and don’t rush! You got this! Cheers.

Gary Wiemokly - 답글

SO just an update…three weeks later my Mac is operating like it was new. The battery has the same strong life it did back in 2014! I am very pleased and I’m sure you will be as well-well worth the effort!

Gary Wiemokly - 답글

Just finished replacing the battery on my MBP. The original battery module was bulging and warped the bottom case of the laptop along with making the trackpad not work well at all (unable to click anything). Very thorough guide, I had no issues with disassembly. I even managed to sneak in a heat sink disassembly to clean and remove the old thermal paste. Unbelievable how much thermal compound was in and around the CPU and GPU!

After thoroughly cleaning I just re-spread new thermal paste on the CPU and GPU surfaces, screwed everything back and called it a day! Thanks iFixIt! Everything seems to be working well now with much better temperatures, lower case replaced as well, trackpad now works and AFAIK all I/O ports are functional.

Ming Lee - 답글

I had the exact same experience. I should have done the thermal paste while I was neck deep in the MBP last night. I noticed that the laptop was significantly cooler than before I replaced the batteries too (and, oh ya, I could use the touchpad again).

Stephen Weltman -

Hi all, Well, after about two weeks of what seemed like a successful install, my macbook pro. went dark, I can use it with the charger on, but starts saying battery not connected, first it shows the batt icon with an x inside and then the icon just disappear. Anyone with an idea?

Marcelo Ascencio - 답글

Either a bad battery pack or a compromised power connector on the main board (or hopefully just loose on the battery pack to board connection). Open it up and see if that’s the case. If not, contact ifixit.com and replace the battery pack (and it should be under their parts warranty if you bought it from them, I believe)

Stephen Weltman -

Fantastic! I’m typing this comment on my MBP working on its newly-installed battery. I think the “1-2 hour” estimate is a little optimistic: following the procedure to the letter (and being very careful) it took me three hours. But the guide is 100% comprehensive, accurate and easy to follow. A few extra tips that others might find useful: (1) Have separate containers for the screws that’s you will remove at each step. Apple use a dizzying array of screws of different shapes and sizes. I put them into separate shot-glasses, each labelled with the step-number at which they were removed; (2) Don’t overdo it with the solvent: it just makes cleaning up the goo left behind that much harder; (3) When reassembling and following the procedure in reverse, the guide gives a check-list of cables to check for to make sure they aren’t trapped. Check them and check them again before inserting the screws; (4) Have an air-duster to hand and take the opportunity to blow dust out of the fans and vents. Great guide…thanks.

Eamonn McGonigle - 답글

This tutorial was a lifesaver! In this pandemic, and in a very tech-heavy area (Los Angeles) there were no Apple or third party repair places (Apple authorized, etc.) that could get my laptop back to me in less than a month. A month??? Crazy talk. No way. I Google searched how to change the battery pack on my MBP retina and that search got me here. I got my parts (including a toolkit, a new touchpad) which arrived in 3 days. Buy additional pentalobe P5 bits, a lit magnifying glass on a flexy arm, and use isopropyl alcohol instead of the glue dissolving solution in the kit. You can spray it on everything in the inside of the laptop and not be afraid it’ll harm connectors, but also it will loosen the glue pads significantly. I also used automotive trim tools for those %#*!^@ batteries. Much more leverage (just do NOT pierce the battery plastic housing). Use a mag-mat and go slow. You won’t regret the time well spent fixing your own MBP instead of spending $500+ for someone else to do it.

Stephen Weltman - 답글

Ich habe heute die Reparatur, so wie beschrieben, durchgeführt. Es hat alles super geklappt und war gut verständlich. Der Akku ist echt fest ins Gehäuse geklebt, was unter Umständen am Ende ein kleines Problem sein kann. Daher macht es definitiv Sinn, so wie in der Anleitung beschrieben, alles andere auszubauen, um keine Beschädigungen zu produzieren.

Beim zerlegen hatte ich Probleme, die Antennenkabel auf das Airport Modul schadenfrei wieder zu montieren, hier ist extrem Vorsicht geboten! Super fragiles Bauteil, welches ganz ganz schnell kaputt geht.

Christian Mayer - 답글

I replaced the battery using steps suggested in comments section, 1 - 4, then from 34 and it did not work. Computer does not start, no sound, display is off, logo is off, you can only hear the coolers working and it gets hot. I believe the new battery is working, but something didn’t go well by skipping the steps after 4 as recommended by ifixit. I took MB to service and they said the RAM is faulty and I can’t change it separately.

So I just lost my computer.

Ilona Glazova - 답글

Thank you so much for this write up. I followed the steps super carefully and was very systematic with labeling ziplock bags to store each different size of screw and all the different parts - I know that this saved me a lot of headache during the reassembly. This just saved me hundreds of $$$, Thanks IFIXIT!

Carl Hickerson - 답글

Hervorragend aufbereitete Anweisung. Damit ist die Reperatur ein Kinderspiel. Das richtige Werkzeug (Torx T5 und Pentaloobe 1,2mm und Hebelwerkzeug zum herausnehmen der Batterei) vorausgesetzt. Trotzdem ist es nicht nötig alles auszubauen. Geht auch leichter. Aber so hat man dann auch gleich mal alles wieder gereinigt und der Mac ist fast wie neu. Dankeschön

Renato Fischer - 답글

A question to the ones that purchased/used this part. The replacement was ok. No major difficulties. Now, after the calibration, my new battery installed today, only last 3 hours after a full charge. What is your experience/normal? Just want to understand if my MacBook might have some other issue, assuming the new batteries are not faulty.

joselfesteves - 답글

I do *not* recommend removing the logic board just to replace the battery. It’s a ridiculous and error-prone waste of time! Just be very careful with the adhesive remover — apply small quantities only where you’re about to work on the adhesive (it doesn’t really soak in well, it just dries up). Work the battery off using credit cards or floss. Should be a 5 minute job! The first time is always the hardest, since the original apple adhesive is very strong.

Ethan Payne - 답글

I only did steps 1-4 and then jumped directly to 32. I only unscrewed the Speakers, without even removing them. I used dental floss to remove the battery pack. I only used a little bit of adhesive remover liquid for the two central batteries.

Costantino - 답글

Yay Marino Pagan! I did as you suggested and everything worked wonderfully. I used a stick in each hand and wrapped the cord around each stick several times to give it friction, and thin nylon cord, and batteries came out in 10 minutes. Then a little acetone to soften remaining glue and scrape with the plastic spudger, wipe up the spooge, and a final cleanup with acetone on a rag. Thanks!

Side note: I let myself be frightened by all the warnings so kit sat for 6 months or so; most of the acetone had evaporated through the bottle. There was enough left for the cleanup after the string trick, though!

Charles Malloch - 답글

Thanks for the guide! The adhesive remove worked like magic. I didn’t bother going through removing all the components, though. I just unplugged the battery, and started removing it once cell at a time using the adhesive remover and plastic cards. Took me an hour start to finish, because I took my time letting the adhesive remover work its magic.

Menelik Seth - 답글

Normally iFixit tutorials are very good. But this one ... only one question WHY !!!

Why do you want to remove the motherboard to change the battery?

It's so much more risk for nothing

Follow steps 1 to 4 and skip directly to step 34. Watch a tutorial on Youtube and remove the battery pack using thread

And that's all

Time : 15-20 minutes

Difficulty : easy

Yvan Rac - 답글

I just completed a replacement of my battery and trackpad. I recommend using a thick thread tied around two pencils to pull thru the adhesive (pencils help to hold onto and not kill your hands). The longest part of the process was cleaning up the adhesive residue which I was able to do with the adhesive remover and some alcohol. Overall it’s a pain for what the process should be but it isn’t that bad and the ifixit kit works wonders! My 7 year old laptop runs like brand new again and I love it!!! Thanks ifixit!

Jacob Barrett - 답글

Hab’ vor zwei Wochen den etwas deformierten Akku am Mid-2104 MacBook Pro meiner Frau getauscht. Nachdem das meine erste Reparatur im „iFixIt-Style“ war, bin ich extrem ehrfurchtsvoll und vorsichtig an die Sache herangegangen und habe auch erheblich länger gebraucht – aber hey: Das Teil läuft wieder astrein, das Trackpad funktioniert wieder wie es soll und der Akku hat wieder volle Kapazität! Habe ordentlich Geld gespart und eine Lektion in „Selbstwirksamkeit“ gelernt. Vielen Dank für die tolle Anleitung!!

Herbert Grambihler - 답글

Genau dafür ist diese Seite da. ;) Viel Spaß mit deinem selbstreparierten MacBook Pro!

Fabian Neidhardt -

Thanks so much for the beautiful and detailed guide, just replaced the battery in 2.5 hours without any other videos! Very happy to revive old mac

Ruslan Strazhnyk - 답글

Hallo und erstmal vielen dank für die (meist) tollen Anleitungen. Auch hier hat sich wieder jemand viel Mühe gemacht, nur verstehe ich absulut nicht warum!?!

Ich habe mir diese Anleitung angelesen und in den bereits offenen Mac geschaut, wieso soll ich das gesamte Innenleben ausbauen wenn der Akku unten quasi allein lebt, ich will ja nicht die Tastatur wechsel sondern nur den Akku.

Also habe ich mich ans lösen gemacht und das ging auch super. Danach den neuen wieder rein und alles läuft wie neu und das beste keine 30 Minuten ;-)

ro mo - 답글

Wenn du Klebstoffentferner nutzt, kann das für die Lautsprecher und das Logic Board echt gefährlich werden. Deshalb ist hier beschrieben, wie du das sicher ausbaust. Wenn dein Akku leicht rausgeht und du dir das sparen konntest, umso besser. ;)

Fabian Neidhardt -

Ich habe den Akku laut der Anleitung ausgebaut und es hat alles gut geklappt. Akku ist drin, kalibriert habe ich ihn auch. Allerdings springt er manchmal von ca 25 - 30 % sofort auf 7% und es erscheint eine Meldung, dass der Rechner sich gleich in den Ruhezustand versetzt. Ist bei der Kalibrierung irgendetwas schiefgegangen?

Thorsten Grimmer - 답글

OK, ich hab mal wieder nur den Teil mit dem T2-Chip gelesen…

Werde den SMC zurücksetzen und schauen, ob es dann besser ist…

Vielleicht noch eine kurze Verständnisfrage. Da steht…

2. Halte folgende Tasten gedrückt: Umschalttaste  auf der linken Seite der Tastatur, Ctrl-Taste  auf der linken Seite der Tastatur, Wahltaste (Alt)  auf der linken Seite der Tastatur

3. Halte alle drei Tasten gedrückt, und halte zusätzlich den Ein-/Ausschalter gedrückt.

4. Halte alle vier Tasten 10 Sekunden lang gedrückt.

Ich halte also zunächst die 3 Tasten von Punkt 2, drücke dann zusätzlich On/Off und halte ab dann 10 Sekunden?

Sorry, für die vielen Fragen…

Thorsten Grimmer -

Ehmm, ja, soweit ich mich erinnere geht das so. Kann man nicht viel falsch machen.

VauWeh -

Hmmm, es scheint sich nichts geändert zu haben. Er ist wieder auf 7% abgestürzt…

Thorsten Grimmer -

Du kannst deinen Akku nochmal kalibrieren. Gehe die Schritte neu durch, das könnte helfen.

Fabian Neidhardt -

Hab jetzt nochmal kalibriert. Also die Akkulaufzeit ist gut.

Den SMC hab ich auch nochmal zurückgesetzt. Die Batteriestatusanzeige springt trotzdem noch.

Gibt es noch eine andere Möglichkeit, die Batterieanzeige zu reseten?

Thorsten Grimmer -

Würde es etwas bringen, den SMC mit ausgestecktem Akku zurückzusetzen?

Battery Health 2 gibt aus, dass der Akku einen “Gesundheitswert” von 71% hat.

Thorsten Grimmer -

Oder gibt es noch etwas anderes zu beachten beim Zurücksetzen des SMC? Vielleicht nur mit 100% geladenem Akku den SMC zurücksetzen.

Thorsten Grimmer -

Den SMC zu resetten, ist eigentlich immer möglich. Hast du den Akku bei iFixit gekauft? Vielleicht ist wirklich irgendwas mit dem Akku nicht in Ordnung.

Fabian Neidhardt -

Ja, habe den Akku bei iFixit gekauft. Wie kann man herausfinden, ob der Akku ne Macke hat?

Wie verlässlich sind die Daten (etwa zu Current Max, Original Max, Date of Manufacture, Age) die einem Battery Health ausgibt?

Thorsten Grimmer -

Ich kann dir leider nicht sagen, wie verlässlich die App ist. Du kannst es auch nochmal mit Coconut Battery gegenchecken. Aber ich schätze, die ziehen die Infos aus der gleichen Quelle. Und wenn du den SMC resettet hast und die Kalibrierung gemacht hast und trotzdem geht etwas nicht richtig, würde ich mich beim Support melden.

Fabian Neidhardt -

Habe iFixit kontaktiert und es wurde mir der Akku getauscht. Bevor ich ihn nun einbaue und kalibriert: Welche Anleitung zum Kalibrieren ist denn die richtige? Gibt es die überhaupt, oder ist es egal, nach welcher man den Akku kalibriert.

Hier auf der Seite bspw. lautet das Vorgehen folgendermaßen:

“Kalibriere deinen neu eingebauten Akku: Lade ihn auf 100% und lasse ihn mindestens zwei weitere Stunden am Ladegerät. Ziehe den Stecker und benutze dein MacBook normal, um den Akku zu entladen. Wenn die Ladeanzeige am Minimum ist, dann speichere ab und lasse den Laptop an, bis er von selbst ausgeht. Warte wenigstens 5 Stunden und lade dann auf 100% auf.”

Beim Akku war eine Anleitung dabei, da heißt es:

“Lade bis 100% und lade für weitere 2 Stunden weiter. Benutze danach dein Endgerät bis es sich von selbst abschaltet. Zum Schluss lade es ohne Unterbrechung bis 100%.”

Thorsten Grimmer -

Auf der iFixit-Kundenserviceseite lautet eine Anleitung (aber eher beim Troubleshooting auf die Aussage. “Mein neuer MacBook (Pro/Air) Akku funktioniert nicht richtig.):

“-lade den Akku auf, bis er 100% erreicht (egal, was der mAh-Wert ist)

- entferne das Ladekabel vom Rechner und verwende ihn, bis er in den Ruhezustand fällt.

- warte, bis der Rechner von selbst ganz abschaltet und lasse ihn für mindestens 2 Stunden stehen

- lade ihn wieder auf 100% auf und lasse ihn noch eine Stunde danach am Netzteil angeschlossen

- nun noch wie folgt einen SMC reset durchführen?

Sollte man nach dem Tausch auf jeden Fall einen Reset des SMC durchführen? Oder wenn es so war, wie bei mir, auf jeden Fall?

Thorsten Grimmer -

Die Anleitung, die beim Akku dabei ist, ist quasi die Basis-Anleitung. Die sauberste Art ist, ihn zu Kalibrieren, ist die auf dieser Seite: “Kalibriere deinen neu eingebauten Akku: Lade ihn auf 100% und lasse ihn mindestens zwei weitere Stunden am Ladegerät. Ziehe den Stecker und benutze dein MacBook normal, um den Akku zu entladen. Wenn die Ladeanzeige am Minimum ist, dann speichere ab und lasse den Laptop an, bis er von selbst ausgeht. Warte wenigstens 5 Stunden und lade dann auf 100% auf.” Den SMC musst du nicht immer resetten, aber schaden tut es auch nie.

Fabian Neidhardt -

Step 55b

Be careful your trackpad cable is not glued or snagged to the battery or you will rip it :-(

jrpsupport - 답글

Just finished my battery replacement tonight and it was great. Everything worked like a charm. It is a great walk thru!!!!

Westar Masonry - 답글

As stated above, I just used steps 1-4 then 34. Absolutely no need for any other steps. Simple fast and perfect. Total time less than an hour.

Alex Cassinelli - 답글

Hi everyone, I managed to install the battery without too many problems, thanks for all the tips here. Now my problem is that the battery indicator says in just one hour of use that the battery is over, it stays at 5%. Any way to get the computer to recognize and give me the correct battery measurement? Yes I did the NVRAM reset. Option + Command + P + R Thanks

Pedro Figueroa - 답글

Awesome! Laptop back to normal with now further extension of use of otherwise perfect laptop (Mid-2014 MacBook Pro 15”).

aramis - 답글

The battery replacement kit is very, very high quality, and the adhesive remover is overall very effective. I wish someone had fired whoever suggested gluing in laptop batteries in the first place.

kylecardoza - 답글

Great guide, thanks for all the comments and help. I especially appreciate the tip regarding the metal plate that was stuck to the old battery above the trackpad. I did not notice this piece and would have had to tear the laptop down again if not for the comment. I peeled it off of the old battery and placed it below the new battery as suggested. My swollen battery is replaced and the laptop works like new! Thanks everybody, what a great site and community here.

Adam G - 답글

Plus one for the string method. I used a short piece of mason’s line with a small metal ring tied to each end to make “handles” that are easier on the fingers. An advantage of the mason’s line is that it can be soaked with a few drops of the solvent, probably more effectively than dental floss, etc. After removing the battery, I used some drops of the solvent to help remove the remaining super-sticky adhesive tape. Removing the old battery with this technique, rather than tearing it all down, really should be the preferred solution.

jonathan - 답글

I did it a second time but again without deconstructing the computer. Just being careful with the solvent Aceton. Just drops and being patient …

Reinard Schmitz - 답글

Great guide!!!

Does anyone know where I can find a table specifying battery model x MacBook Pro model?

I have a MacBook Pro Retina 15-inch Mid 2014, and I have doubts if the battery is the A1494 or A1417.

Eldes - 답글

I don’t know where you’d find a table, but you should need an A1494 battery for your MacBook, which you can find in our store. The A1417 battery is for 2012-2013 MacBook Pro’s.

Adam O'Camb -

Vraiment je ne comprend pas ce tutoriel !

Il n’est pas destiné au remplacement de la batterie uniquement.

Pour la batterie ce n’est vraiment pas difficile si on prend soin de faire couler quelques gouttes du produit dissolvant pour la colle.

Il faut attendre 5 minutes pour que le dissolvant fasse son effet et ensuite ce n’est pas très difficile.

Bien supprimer les restes de colle sur le couvercle de l’ordi où étaient collées les anciennes batteries.

Oui c’est recommandé de vider au maximum l’ancienne batterie.

Le plus délicat de de retirer le connecteur de la batterie sur la carte mère, il faut y aller doucement mais néanmoins fermement en soulevant des deux côtés à la fois.

Christian

surcoufdetremalo - 답글

Ich verstehe auch nicht, warum iFixit hier mit Aceton arbeitet und zudem das komplette MacBook zerlegt. Notwendig sind nur Schritt 1-4, dann kann man mit einem dünnen und starken Faden (ggf. dünnes Tau) um die einzelnen Zellen herum gelegt (unter die Ecken zum drunter rutschen) wunderbar mit ein bisschen bestimmter Zugkraft zum Rand hin den Softkleber durchtrennen. Nachdem alle 6 Zellen lose sind und der Akku ausgehoben ist habe ich erst die schwarzen Klebereste abgezogen - das war wie typisches gummiartiges Klebeband - und dann die backsigen Reste mit Silikonentferner abgerieben (hatte ich u.a. griffbereit). Das MacBook ist unversehrt, glänzt wie fabrikneu. Die ganze Aktion hat mit Reinigung keine 30 Minuten gedauert, ausbauen musste ich überhaupt nichts und ein Risiko für die Hardware besteht so auch nicht, weil man eben nicht 50 Teile auseinander- und wieder zusammenschrauben muss oder geschweige denn mit Aceton rumschmiert.

Ben - 답글

Hej Ben, danke für deine alternative Möglichkeit. Der Akku geht nicht immer leicht raus. Deshalb ist hier beschrieben, wie du ihn sicher ausbaust. Wenn dein Akku leicht rausging und du dir das sparen konntest, umso besser. ;)

Fabian Neidhardt -

Hey Jeff,

great work!

I’m searching a similar instruction (replace keyboard). So i think that are nearly the same steps necessary (up to step #55).

My question is, if you can make a base instruction for both (Akku and keyboard)? Otherwise i had to copy all you steps, which would probably a bad idea.

MagellanM - 답글

Sure! You can use everything through step 55 as prerequisites for a new guide.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hallo IFIXIT Team,

ich habe meinen aufgeblähten Akku getauscht mit Erfolg. Danke für die tolle Anleitung. Ich habe die Anleitung schritt für schritt befolgt. Es war sehr gut beschrieben und gab auch Sicherheit. Ich habe etwas länger gebraucht aber mit etwas technischem Verständnis ist es gut zu machen. Sinnvoll ist auf jeden Fall das Kit zukaufen die 10,- € sind gut investiert.

Ein Tipp:

Für die Schrauben ein stabiles Klebeband benutzen und die kleinen Schrauben genau in der Reihenfolge aufkleben. Das hat es sehr vereinfacht die Schrauben wieder an die Richtige Stellen zubringen.

Peter

Peter Homburger - 답글

Great guide, thank you!

Unfortunately, my fans are running at max all the time now (Macbook pro mid 2014 Retina). I reset the SMC (got even confirmation with the light on the MagSafe), but still: fans are starting to run to max during start-up and stay at max (Macbook stays absolutely cool though - no processes use much energy acc to Activity monitor). Any ideas? Thanks for your help.

Daniel - 답글

Hallo Zusammen, habe meinen Akku nach Anleitung getauscht! Anleitung ist toll! Nun habe ich aber ein Problem mit dem Bildschirm. Beim Starten mit dem „Apple“-Symbol ist alles auf dem Bildschirm verteilt.. selbst der Ladebalken ist über den kompletten Bildschirm in Teilen. Nach dem Laden bleibt der Bildschirm dunkel. Was kann ich nun machen ??

Alex - 답글

Hallo Alex, wenn nach so einer Reparatur Probleme mit dem Display auftauchen, liegt das meist am Display-Anschluss. Wenn du der Anleitung komplett gefolgt bist, hast du ja das Display-Datenkabel gelöst. Vielleicht ist der nicht ganz drin, dann bekommt das Display ein falsches Signal. Wenn du nicht gleich den Rechner wieder aufschrauben willst, kannst du vorher versuchen, SMC und NVRAM zurückzusetzen.

Fabian Neidhardt -

@fabiann leider alles nichts genützt. :-( . Denke es fehlt ein wichtiger Punkt in der Anleitung (oder ich habs übersehen) der Mir das Genick gebrochen hat. Laut vielen DIY Videos die ich nun im nach hinein gesehen habe sollte man zwingend nach dem trennen der Akkuspannung(des Steckers) noch ca. 10-15 Sekunden den Einschalter gedrückt halten um das Gerät von Restspannungen zu befreien. Mein Display scheint deshalb einen Schaden bekommen zu haben und Zeigt nun nur noch Müll an. Ist sehr ärgerlich, denn das Gerät war in einem sehr guten Zustand.

Grüsse Alex

Alex - 답글

Replaced the battery using this guide. Let’s see how much time will it take for a new battery to degrade.

grushevskiyihor - 답글

I just changed the battery in my MBP Mid 2014 following steps 1-4 but instead of doing 5-33, I jumped to step 34 like the other fellow wrote. Instead of using dental floss or string, I used an iFixit plastic card to get under the 6 battery pads and dislodge the tape. After freeing all 6 battery pads and removing the battery, I replaced it with the new battery and reversed steps 34, 4, 3, 2 and 1. Be careful where you hold the Mac so you do not break anything and be very careful not to puncture the battery casing. Also, wear eye protection.

mmorder - 답글

Just another data point. You DON’T need to do all those steps like many others have already mentioned. Just take the case back off, remove the two battery screws, and pull the connector. I used “weed wacker” trimmer line from the hardware store. Didn’t even need the solvent. A couple of good see-saw tugs back and forth and they popped right off. Took all of 10min at most. It actually took longer to dissolve the old advesive left over then to do the actual swap. Macbook fired right up and charging the battery now.

Frank Ammirata - 답글

Me Gusto el tutorial, esta basatnte completo para un desensamble. me surgió la duda si con solo la solución liquida para poder desprender la batería y un ángulo de 45° no bastaba.

crodrigocorona - 답글

Je me suis lancé, j'ai urilisé un fil de pêche.

Réussi.

Merci +++

KIEGEL Pierre - 답글

If you are putting the old battery back in or you want to make the replacement one easier to replace, forget the impossible adhesive on the bottom of the battery. You'll need to make it so the battery doesn't have room to shift/slide around inside, so I used some of that thin adhesive felt, and cut a few strips and attached them across the batteries and over the rubber strips, it's just enough height.

Without it, if you have the case together and shake the computer you can hear it lightly rattling.

I would attach a picture, but there doesn't seem to be an option.

Paul Lewendon - 답글

The method with the rope works well. Unfortunately sometimes when removing one of the two central batteries something went wrong and the battery started smoking and catching fire…luckily it did not blow up but as it was still glued to the chassis it was impossible to proceed and remove it…

Tommaso Paci - 답글

I used the string method and it was really easy. This whole guide was easy to follow, but glad I saw the string method in the comments. I actually got distracted while starting and when I came back I completely skipped the art where you are supposed to unplug the batterie 🤦‍♂️ but luckily it didn't mess anything up!

Michael Steinhofer - 답글

Directement à l’étape 34 du tuto, toucher du métal avant d’intervenir sur le mac pour vous démagnetiser, pas besoin de dissolvant. Très rapide 15 min et c’est fait. Je ne donne pas de retour sur la batterie qui semble de bonne facture mais je n’ai aucun recule sur sa durée de vie, ni sur sa qualité d’utilisation.

Léviator - 답글

as stated above.... the fishing line (use an ultra tiny line - i use .3mm) method works better if you do not want to remove the entire mainboard and all components. DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK however. if you are not technically inclined, then it is best to follow ifixits instructions here. but if you are, and/or have disassembled these before and know where to avoid - its dramatically easier and a lot faster to simply remove the battery with fishing line, sawing back and forth, than trying to pry it free.

Jeff Parker - 답글

I've done several of these repairs using heavy duty Nylon string/twine, with a loop on the end and some thick rubber gloves, not thin plastic gloves. I also used a plastic puddy knife to get under the center cells from the side, after getting the two on each side removed. Works well. I have done many Mac repair project, and removing a MB this complex, with 55 steps is not an easy process. Use the sting method not the solvent method.

Chapman Gleason - 답글

Bonjour pourquoi tout ce demontage alors qu'il n'y a que 4 fixation à enlever ?

Cordialement

Yves-lionel Mignot - 답글

Bonjour Yves-Lionel, le démontage sert à mettre de côté ou protéger au maximum les composants susceptibles d'être abîmés par le dissolvant nécessaire pour venir à bout de la colle qui s'ajoute aux vis à l'intérieur du MacBook. Nous recommandons de prendre toutes ces précautions, mais il est aussi possible de raccourcir certaines étapes. À chacun de juger selon son expérience en réparation et/ou son goût du risque :)

Claire Miesch -

My battery is not detected. Is it safe to assume it is fully discharged?

Jack - 답글

Hello.

I follow all the steps in this guide.

Unfortunately the battery doesn’t charge.

The computer doesn’t recognize that there is battery.

Any suggestions?

Ioannis - 답글

I am going to replace my Mac Book Pro 15" mid 2014. Purchased 17 Jan2015. The existing battery 95 Watts her lithium polymer battery. Please confirm that the replacement battery is suitable for mid 2014 Mac Book Pro.

Thanks,

Mike

Mike Chang - 답글

I replaced the battery today with the purchased kit. Everything perfect thanks.

tequis - 답글

If I’m removing the logic board why remove the Airport OR the fans - they’re attached to the logic board and can remain as one single piece when the logic board is removed?

Every screw removed, every piece is a chance for something to go wrong

Nicolas Cacace - 답글

So, where is the lithium coin cell located?

Raymond Shpeley - 답글

Great guide like others I used some fishing line to cut the file holding the batteries in, which saved a ton of dismantling. It leaves a bit more of the glue behind but with some careful scraping and the glue softener it was soon cleaned up.

Colin Haycock - 답글

Curious to know why the entire board had to be taken out to replace the batter? I did this and now the keyboard does not work. Other places don't show the need to spend all that time removing the board and connectors. Did I just ruin my keyboard for nothing?

osaga - 답글

TOO RISKY to remove everything just to replace the battery. DO NOT FOLLOW THIS GUIDE! Your chances of messing something up are VERY HIGH!

osaga - 답글

Hey everyone! I followed this guide and replaced everything (except the battery wasn't from ifixit). My laptop won't startup anymore, but I've noticed that some of the components on the moterboard near to the battery port started to heat greatley when it is charging. Altough it reacts somehow on SMC reset (with changing LED indicator color on the magsafe charger) it won't turn on( Have anybody had such an experience?

niki - 답글

Suivi les instructions à la lettre et ça a marché. Apple ne prend plus en charge ces MacBooks, et la batterie était tellement hors d'usage que le MacBook ne démarrait plus, même en étant sur secteur. Il n'y avait rien à perdre. C'est bien de prévoir plein de petits récipients pour mettre les vis extraites à chaque étape (avec un bout de papier indiquant l'étape). La difficulté principale, c'est tous ces connecteurs minuscules et différents à débrancher et rebrancher proprement. Avec mon fils lycéen (qui faisait toutes les manips), on a bien mis trois heures. Si c'était à refaire, j'essaierai directement la video YouTube (premier commentaire) avec du fil dentaire pour décoller la batterie et sans s'embêtèr à tout démonter. Mais au moins, si il y a une pièce à changer sur un autre laptop, on se lancera facilement.

David Rousseau - 답글

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