주요 콘텐츠로 건너뛰기

Fix Your Stuff

Right to Repair

Parts & Tools

소개

Use this guide to safely remove the glued-in battery from your MacBook Pro with the help of an iFixit battery replacement kit. The adhesive remover in your kit will dissolve the adhesive securing the battery, allowing you to remove it with ease.

Apple issued a battery recall for this model in June of 2019—so before replacing your battery, you can check to see if you are eligible to receive a replacement for free from Apple.

iFixit adhesive remover is highly flammable. Perform this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame during this procedure.

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured. If your battery is swollen, take extra precautions.

Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive can damage your speakers if it comes in contact with the plastic speaker enclosures. Therefore, this guide instructs you to remove the speakers before proceeding to the battery. Removing the speakers requires also removing several other components including the logic board.

  1. Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
    • Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.1 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

    The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

    anonymous 1286 - 답글

    Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

    anonymous 1286 - 답글

  2. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
    • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

  3. The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange). During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.
    • The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange).

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.

    pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

    jamiegan835 - 답글

    The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.

    Aaron Freidus - 답글

  4. Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.
    • Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.

    You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.

    Aaron Freidus - 답글

    Note that the photo is taken from the hinge side - the other way to the photo in step 3

    Toby Thurston - 답글

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - 답글

  5. Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board. Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
    • Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

    why is this necessary to remove a hard drive?

    Lawtay - 답글

    @lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - 답글

    Picture doesn’t match the computer. Hard to tell which connector to disconnect

    James Mitchell - 답글

    Hi James, are you sure you have the correct guide for your machine? Try using our MacBook Identification tool.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Habe den Akkustecker beim putzen abgemacht um keinen Stromschlag zu kriegen, jetzt wieder eingebaut. Nun habe ich folgendes Problem: Akku wird geladen, aber steigt niemals ueber % und manchmal geht er trotz Anschluss an das Stromnetz einfach aus. Hat da jemand eine Idee?

    paul - 답글

    I used the identification tool and can confirm what James is seeing. The picture doesn’t match for this step. There is no piece with visible holes punched in it.

    Joshua McFarland - 답글

  6. Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board, and bend them up and out of the way. The cable connection points are very fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable. To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.
    • Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board, and bend them up and out of the way.

    • The cable connection points are very fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.

    • To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

    I seriously hate this step - it is pretty much the only difficult part of the job. Reconnecting these microscopic stinkin connectors is a monumental PITA…

    T Rowe - 답글

    Guys, be very carefull with these 3 cables.. If you are not going to replace the whole display, just be careful as much as possible.

    Adi - 답글

    When reconnecting these tiny wires, use one hand to guide and align the connector by holding the wire and the other hand to press them down with a flat end of a spudger. Spent 10 minutes figuring it out and connecting the first one, then only a few seconds on both of the remaining connectors :)

    If you try to do this with one hand, it’s extremely easy to move them out of the alignment while pressing them down.

    Aivar Kavshevich - 답글

    I think there is a better way - where you disconnect the wifi card using the black screw in middle of wire 2 and 3 first and then untie these connectors. I pryed away the connectors but the sockets on the card were all damaged during the process. Ended up having to get a replacement card before reassembly could be completed. So again there are 2 components - connectors which are being pryed away and really fine and delicate socket. Very easy to damage them. Better to take the card off and delicately peel these connectors off. I would not recommend using these pry sticks mentioned here for that.

    Abhishek Kathuria - 답글

    ATTENTION ! Cette étape est grandement sous-estimée, aucune mention de la délicatesse de l’opération contrairement à d’autres étapes bien plus facile… De plus, il semble possible de sauter cette étape en déconnectant seulement la carte comme expliquer sur la version anglophone du guide !!! J’ai endommagé le connecteur le plus proche du ventilateur, pour rien… Heureusement, tout semble fonctionner correctement…

    Antochny - 답글

    AirPort/Camera Cables? not AirPort/Bluetooth Cables?

    Marco Cappelli - 답글

    Je confirme qu’il est plus simple de déconnecter la carte (enlever la vis, et tirer délicatement sur la carte) que d’enlever les trois cables / I confirm that it’s a lot easier to disconnect the Airport card (just remove the screw and pull gently) than removing those 3 wires.

    Maen J - 답글

    Agreed with Abhishek - removing the wifi card first makes this much easier.

    Tammer Saleh - 답글

    How do you know which is which when reassembling?

    Bryan Province - 답글

    I highly suggest against disconnecting these wires. It's very likely that you will damage either sockets or wires. Do as others recommend, just remove the network card. Prying tool is not good for this step. I broke 1 out of 3 sockets. I wish I read all the comments before operating. Now I gotta get another card :(

    Adomas Aleknavičius - 답글

  7. Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way. Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

  8. Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.

  9. Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan. The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them. Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.
    • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

    • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

    • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

    • On reassembly, there should be enough adhesive still on these cables to stick them back down to the fan.

  10. Remove the four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable connector covers.
    • Remove the four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable connector covers.

    why is this needed for upper assembly replacement?

    Andrew Chu - 답글

  11. Remove the left connector cover. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Remove the left connector cover.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

  12. Remove the right connector cover. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Remove the right connector cover.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

  13. Peel the top I/O board cable up from the adhesive securing it to the fan.
    • Peel the top I/O board cable up from the adhesive securing it to the fan.

    • Remove the cable.

    Cable need not be removed.

    mayer - 답글

  14. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

    • One 5.0 mm screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder

    • One 4.0 mm screw with a wide head

    • One 4.4 mm screw

  15. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  16. Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket. The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.
    • Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.

    • The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.

    • Remove the fan.

  17. Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way. Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

  18. Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a wide head

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

  19. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  20. Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket. The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.
    • Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.

    • The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.

    • Remove the fan.

  21. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

  22. Lift the end of the SSD up enough to pass over the speaker directly behind it. Do not lift the SSD too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket. Pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Lift the end of the SSD up enough to pass over the speaker directly behind it.

    • Do not lift the SSD too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket.

    • Pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  23. Use the point of a spudger to flip up the locking mechanism on the I/O board connector. Flip the spudger around and use the flat end to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. Push on the opened locking mechanism for an easy way to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. This could help prevent accidental damage to the cable or connector contacts.
    • Use the point of a spudger to flip up the locking mechanism on the I/O board connector.

    • Flip the spudger around and use the flat end to slide the I/O cable out of the connector.

    • Push on the opened locking mechanism for an easy way to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. This could help prevent accidental damage to the cable or connector contacts.

  24. Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws from the I/O board.
    • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws from the I/O board.

    Remove the screw holding the heat pipe, it blocks the I/O board from coming out

    Gert Cuykens - 답글

  25. Slightly lift the interior edge of the I/O board and pull it toward the center of the MacBook, away from the side of the case. Remove the I/O board.
    • Slightly lift the interior edge of the I/O board and pull it toward the center of the MacBook, away from the side of the case.

    • Remove the I/O board.

  26. Remove the two 2.2 mm Torx T5 screws securing the touchpad cable connector cover to the logic board. Remove the cover.
    • Remove the two 2.2 mm Torx T5 screws securing the touchpad cable connector cover to the logic board.

    • Remove the cover.

  27. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the touchpad cable connector from its socket in the logic board. Slightly twisting the flat end of a spudger is an easy way to pry up the cable connector from these types of sockets. Be careful to only pry up against the connector, and not the logic board socket.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the touchpad cable connector from its socket in the logic board.

    • Slightly twisting the flat end of a spudger is an easy way to pry up the cable connector from these types of sockets.

    • Be careful to only pry up against the connector, and not the logic board socket.

  28. Remove a small rubber cap off the screw at the end of the heat sink.
    • Remove a small rubber cap off the screw at the end of the heat sink.

  29. Remove the following six screws securing the logic board assembly to the upper case.
    • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board assembly to the upper case.

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw (this one is silver and has a taller head than the others)

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.2 mm T5 Torx screw

    • On reassembly, start all six screws but do not tighten any of them. Move the logic board around until all of the screws are centered in their holes and the ports are lined up with their openings in the side of the upper case. Then tighten all of the screws.

    Top left and right screw (red, yellow) are silver, the other ones black.

    Peter G - 답글

  30. The following steps will detail disconnecting these six connectors. Be sure to read each step, as these connectors come in different styles that disconnect differently.
    • The following steps will detail disconnecting these six connectors. Be sure to read each step, as these connectors come in different styles that disconnect differently.

    • Microphone cable

    • Left speaker cable

    • Keyboard data cable

    • Right speaker cable

    • Keyboard backlight cable

    • Display data cable

    • On reassembly, check to make sure all of these connectors are connected and fully seated in their sockets.

  31. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket. Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board. Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board.

  32. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board. Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

    • Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

  33. Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector. Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector.
    • Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector.

  34. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard data cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard data cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up.

  35. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board. Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

    • Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

  36. Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  37. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer.

    +(mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen)

    Verwende die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Verschluss des Displaydatenkabels nach oben zu klappen (mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen) und ihn in Richtung MagSafe 2-Powerport zu drehen.

    Mihály Plajner - 답글

  38. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Do not touch the contacts on the data connector or its socket with your fingers or any tools, as you may deposit oils or damage the pins.
    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    • Do not touch the contacts on the data connector or its socket with your fingers or any tools, as you may deposit oils or damage the pins.

    • Gently bend the display data cable toward the display hinge, to expose the screws on the MagSafe 2 board.

  39. Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws from the MagSafe 2 board.
    • Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws from the MagSafe 2 board.

  40. Lift and pull the entire logic board assembly away from the wall of the upper case. When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case. When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case.
    • Lift and pull the entire logic board assembly away from the wall of the upper case.

    • When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case.

  41. Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:
    • Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw (with 4.5 mm shoulder)

    • 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

  42. Remove the left speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in. Remove the left speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in.
    • Remove the left speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in.

  43. Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:
    • Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw (with 4.5 mm shoulder)

    • 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

  44. The right speaker cable is lightly adhered to the upper case. Peel the right speaker cable up to free it from the upper case.
    • The right speaker cable is lightly adhered to the upper case.

    • Peel the right speaker cable up to free it from the upper case.

    • On reassembly, tuck the cable up against the aluminum frame above the battery.

  45. Remove the right speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in. Remove the right speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in.
    • Remove the right speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in.

  46. Peel back the tape covering the trackpad connector ribbon cable, near the front edge of the MacBook Pro. Peel back the tape covering the trackpad connector ribbon cable, near the front edge of the MacBook Pro.
    • Peel back the tape covering the trackpad connector ribbon cable, near the front edge of the MacBook Pro.

  47. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the black locking tab on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the black locking tab on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF connector.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the black locking tab on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF connector.

    Personally I had problems getting the ZIF to disengage, so I disconnected the cable from the other side. Very easy, no problems taking the battery out and dealing with the rest of it.

    Wayne West - 답글

  48. Insert an opening pick between the trackpad ribbon cable and the battery. Carefully slide your pick underneath the length of the ribbon cable to separate the adhesive securing it to the battery. The ribbon cable is easily damaged. If necessary, use a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive so you can remove it with less force.
    • Insert an opening pick between the trackpad ribbon cable and the battery.

    • Carefully slide your pick underneath the length of the ribbon cable to separate the adhesive securing it to the battery.

    • The ribbon cable is easily damaged. If necessary, use a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive so you can remove it with less force.

  49. Remove the trackpad ribbon cable. Remove the trackpad ribbon cable.
    • Remove the trackpad ribbon cable.

  50. Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the battery board.
    • Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the battery board.

  51. The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.
    • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.

    • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

    Open screen and put MacBook on it’s side

    Gert Cuykens - 답글

  52. With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up at a slight angle, using a sturdy foam block or book. In the following steps, you'll apply liquid adhesive remover to the right (outer) edge of the battery. Keeping this side of the MacBook Pro elevated will help the adhesive remover flow underneath the battery.
    • With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up at a slight angle, using a sturdy foam block or book.

    • In the following steps, you'll apply liquid adhesive remover to the right (outer) edge of the battery. Keeping this side of the MacBook Pro elevated will help the adhesive remover flow underneath the battery.

  53. Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself. iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.
    • Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

    • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

  54. Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover. Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip. This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.
    • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

    • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

    • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

    • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

    • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

    • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

  55. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly along the elevated edge of the outer right battery cell. You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly along the elevated edge of the outer right battery cell.

    • You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

  56. Slide one corner of a plastic card under the outer edge of the battery cell. It may help to gently twist the card to open up a slight gap between the battery cell and the MacBook Pro's case. Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the MacBook Pro's upper case.
    • Slide one corner of a plastic card under the outer edge of the battery cell.

    • It may help to gently twist the card to open up a slight gap between the battery cell and the MacBook Pro's case.

    • Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the MacBook Pro's upper case.

  57. Lift the battery cell to separate it from the MacBook Pro's upper case, but don't try to remove it. Leave the plastic card underneath the battery cell to prevent it from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.
    • Lift the battery cell to separate it from the MacBook Pro's upper case, but don't try to remove it.

    • Leave the plastic card underneath the battery cell to prevent it from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.

  58. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly along the elevated edge of the next battery cell. Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly along the elevated edge of the next battery cell.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

  59. Slide one corner of your plastic card underneath the second battery cell. Push the card underneath the second battery cell, and slide it side to side to separate the adhesive underneath. Leave the plastic card underneath both battery cells (or flip them over) to prevent them from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.
    • Slide one corner of your plastic card underneath the second battery cell.

    • Push the card underneath the second battery cell, and slide it side to side to separate the adhesive underneath.

    • Leave the plastic card underneath both battery cells (or flip them over) to prevent them from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.

  60. It's time to switch sides. Remove your book or foam block and place it under the opposite side of your MacBook Pro. It's time to switch sides. Remove your book or foam block and place it under the opposite side of your MacBook Pro.
    • It's time to switch sides. Remove your book or foam block and place it under the opposite side of your MacBook Pro.

  61. Repeat the procedure from the prior steps to separate the two battery cells on this side: Apply your adhesive remover to the elevated edge of the outer left battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate. Work one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery cell, and slide the card fully underneath the battery cell to separate it.
    • Repeat the procedure from the prior steps to separate the two battery cells on this side:

    • Apply your adhesive remover to the elevated edge of the outer left battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate.

    • Work one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery cell, and slide the card fully underneath the battery cell to separate it.

    • Do the same for the adjacent cell.

    • Leave your plastic card in place or flip the battery cells over to prevent them from re-adhering during the following steps.

  62. With the left edge of your MacBook Pro still propped up, apply a few drops of adhesive remover  down the center line between the two middle battery cells. Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.
    • With the left edge of your MacBook Pro still propped up, apply a few drops of adhesive remover down the center line between the two middle battery cells.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.

  63. Slide one corner of a plastic card between the middle two cells, and under the elevated edge of the center-right battery cell. Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place. Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.
    • Slide one corner of a plastic card between the middle two cells, and under the elevated edge of the center-right battery cell.

    • Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place.

    • Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.

  64. Flip the two de-adhered right-hand battery cells over the front edge of the MacBook Pro, if you haven’t already. This will allow access to the outside edge of the center cell. Flip the two de-adhered right-hand battery cells over the front edge of the MacBook Pro, if you haven’t already. This will allow access to the outside edge of the center cell.
    • Flip the two de-adhered right-hand battery cells over the front edge of the MacBook Pro, if you haven’t already. This will allow access to the outside edge of the center cell.

  65. Push one corner of a plastic card below the plastic battery frame and underneath the remaining adhered edge of the lower center cell. Do not pry along the edge nearest the battery connector, or you risk damaging the keyboard ribbon cable. Slide your card all the way under the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering.
    • Push one corner of a plastic card below the plastic battery frame and underneath the remaining adhered edge of the lower center cell.

    • Do not pry along the edge nearest the battery connector, or you risk damaging the keyboard ribbon cable.

    • Slide your card all the way under the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering.

  66. Remove the first plastic card that you inserted under the center-right battery cell. Push the other card in a little further and leave it in place to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering as you continue. Push the other card in a little further and leave it in place to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering as you continue.
    • Remove the first plastic card that you inserted under the center-right battery cell.

    • Push the other card in a little further and leave it in place to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering as you continue.

  67. Remove your book or foam block. With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up once again.
    • Remove your book or foam block.

    • With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up once again.

  68. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover between the two center battery cells, so that it flows underneath the remaining battery cell.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover between the two center battery cells, so that it flows underneath the remaining battery cell.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.

  69. Slide one corner of a plastic card under the elevated edge of the final battery cell. Push the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place. Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.
    • Slide one corner of a plastic card under the elevated edge of the final battery cell.

    • Push the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place.

    • Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.

  70. If you haven't already done so, lift and flip the two outer left battery cells to clear access to the outside edge of the final battery cell. If you haven't already done so, lift and flip the two outer left battery cells to clear access to the outside edge of the final battery cell.
    • If you haven't already done so, lift and flip the two outer left battery cells to clear access to the outside edge of the final battery cell.

  71. Repeat the process you used on the center-right battery cell to finish separating the adhesive on the center-left cell: Push one corner of a plastic card below the plastic battery frame and underneath the remaining adhered edge of the final battery cell. Slide your card all the way underneath the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering.
    • Repeat the process you used on the center-right battery cell to finish separating the adhesive on the center-left cell:

    • Push one corner of a plastic card below the plastic battery frame and underneath the remaining adhered edge of the final battery cell.

    • Slide your card all the way underneath the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering.

  72. Remove the first card that you  inserted under the final battery cell. Remove the first card that you  inserted under the final battery cell.
    • Remove the first card that you inserted under the final battery cell.

  73. With one plastic card underneath each of the two center battery cells, twist and lift both cards to fully separate the battery cells, together with the plastic frame and battery board, from the MacBook Pro. With one plastic card underneath each of the two center battery cells, twist and lift both cards to fully separate the battery cells, together with the plastic frame and battery board, from the MacBook Pro.
    • With one plastic card underneath each of the two center battery cells, twist and lift both cards to fully separate the battery cells, together with the plastic frame and battery board, from the MacBook Pro.

  74. Lift and remove the battery. Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.
    • Lift and remove the battery.

    • Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

    • Otherwise, soak each strip of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with a plastic tool. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

    • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place. If any additional films/liners are present that weren't on your original battery, remove them now.

    • Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

    Don’t paste the new battery before complete reassembly and testing.

    Gert Cuykens - 답글

    When positioning the new battery, pay close attention to the alignment of the two screw holes at the top.

    Tammer Saleh - 답글

    I would really appreciate some additional tips on placing the new battery set. I attempted to adhere just the middle two by screwing in the battery management board, but unfortunately I dropped the batteries, and of course, they stuck immediately and needed to be pried out to be seated properly. One I got the middle two placed, I could then peel the backing for the outside four. It’s probably worth mentioning that the outside pair of batteries share space with the speaker assembly, so be careful placing those two.

    Duane Pinkerton - 답글

    This process was quick and easy. Takes patience but was able to get it done in about 1.5 hours. Getting the adhesive took the longest after getting the battery removed.

    scottn - 답글

    I’d definitely put the speakers back before sticking the new battery down. The new battery got stuck slightly close to where the left speakers was going it, and I was just barely able to make it all fit.

    Henrik Holm - 답글

결론

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

다른 141명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.

Jeff Suovanen

회원 가입일: 2013년 08월 06일

263,760 평판

안내서 218개 작성하였습니다

iFixit iFixit 회원

Community

108 회원들

안내서 9,884개 작성하였습니다

Do I need to remove all these things just to replace the battery or can I just remove the connectors above the battery than the battery?

Tony - 답글

I just went through this process yesterday, and today wondered why I needed to take all that crap out, because I don’t remember anything blocking the battery removal, that would require removing the speakers, logic board, etc. I think it’s because of the acetone adhesive solvent. It’s powerful stuff that can easily damage the system. Maybe, if you are able to get the battery out without the solvent, you can skip all the other stuff. I will say, however, that in my system, it seemed like the adhesive is real solid. It felt like I was pressing the card up against aluminum studs in the frame, until the solvent loosened it up. If you try to remove the battery without the solvent, be very careful not to use excessive force and warp your frame.

Edward Harvey -

I made it within 1 hour doing Steps 1-5, then Steps 46-50.

I removed battery heating the aluminium frame in the location of battery pack on the opposite side of the frame with NTE HG-300D Mini Heat Gun, and then gently peeling this battery pack with plastic spudger. You may need to reheat the area several times.

For 2 central battery elements you can't heat aluminium frame because they are below touchpad, so I peeled batteries a little bit with spudger, heated the underneath gently, and then peeled it again. Also dental floss could help cutting the glue underneath the battery.

pzhivulin - 답글

Thanks for your fast approach, worked fine for me as well! I did not use any glue dissolver at all.

Tom Vandepoel -

Same for me, about an hour. I didn’t use a heat gun, just finagled the tip of the adhesive dissolver around the edges and otherwise followed the directions using the plastic cards. That dissolver is great stuff, worked twice as fast as the instructions.

Bob Compono -

These batteries appear to be actual Apple batteries. How did iFixit remove them from the case? If iFixit didn't, were they able to get replacement batteries directly from Apple (since the adhesive is already installed)?

plink53 - 답글

Battery seems to be working fine but trackpad and keyboard no longer work. They were working fine before I changed the battery. I checked the trackkpad cable but that seems fine and inserted properly. Reset SMC but still not working.

Jaime Hovey - 답글

Might want to disconnect and reconnect both cables (in the case of the trackpad cable, do this at both ends). Compare with the photos to make sure they're inserted far enough. Check carefully for any sign of physical damage to the cables, connectors, or the board itself. If you continue to have trouble, consider taking your question over to the Answers forum for more suggestions. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Thanks Jeff! I'm afraid this repair is a wash. Trackpad won't even click. I will ask around.

Jaime Hovey - 답글

Jeff, thanks so much for this guide. I was able to resurrect a Mid-2015 MBP that was thrown away due to water damage! It was stuck in an automatic boot loop whenever AC power was connected and would not even power on via the battery alone.

I admit that I did not do a complete teardown nor did I use the kit with the adhesive remover. I was able to lever the outer battery sections up enough with a plastic spudger to slide an old, used gift card underneath them to forcefully cut through the adhesive.

Here’s the System Information output for the installed battery part:

Battery Information:

  Model Information:

  Serial Number: <redacted>

  Manufacturer: DP

  Device Name: bq20z451

  Pack Lot Code: 0

  PCB Lot Code: 0

  Firmware Version: 702

  Hardware Revision: 1

  Cell Revision: 3241

  Charge Information:

  Charge Remaining (mAh): 8635

  Fully Charged: No

  Charging: Yes

  Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 8723

  Health Information:

  Cycle Count: 1

  Condition: Normal

  Battery Installed: Yes

  Amperage (mA): 900

  Voltage (mV): 13029

codelogic - 답글

Great job Jeff. Didn’t seem like there was a need to remove everything, but I’m glad I did. It’s all clean and working perfectly again. Best of all, no bulging battery warping the case!

Ben DeJong - 답글

Just did this today, January 17, 2018. Took me about 3 hours. The instructions were awesome. Taking the battery out was actually far easier than I imagined it would be. Really appreciate you guys making this guide. Apple was going to charge me $1500 to replace my battery, but I did it myself for $120.

Eric Warncke - 답글

Responding to Jeff: how did you reset your smc without a working keyboard??

JCRGH - 답글

I recommend people to check out the thread trick soo you dont need to remove all the components inside! You basicllyy just need to take of the backplate. remove two screws on the battery frame and then use a thread to cut the gluestrips between battery and bessel. I used builder string for leveling as its strong and thin. I used roughly 5 min to remove the battery from the bessel, and then another 30min to clean of the old glue. I recommend the Arctic Thermal removal (mainly for cleaning cpu), it resolves the glue at makes it gel like, then use a spachelor like the one you get un screen replacement kit and scrape it of, use a cloth or toilet paper to remove the liquid undderway. Since its in such a small bottle with drop adding you do not risk damaging the screen etc due to the acid. One of my most easiest repairs i have done! ifixit should update their approach with an alternative. Youtube “macbook retina battery replacement“ ;)

svennand - 답글

I agree with everyone that you don’t need to go through the entire process. Do Steps 1-5, then 46-50. WARNING: use as little force as possible when removing the battery, as you most certainly will rip or disconnect something else if you are not careful. Take special care with the keyboard/trackpad ribbon. When I did this repair I somehow ruined the keyboard/trackpad ribbon, and neither worked until I put another ribbon in—which is very easy. They cost pennies to replace, so you might even want to have some on hand. Everything works perfectly now!

Jaime Hovey - 답글

I just did the swap, followed all the directions (and it did make sense to me to do it properly and remove the speakers and everything to avoid damaging anything) . Either way, when I booted back up and am doing the initial discharge, my battery indicator has turned red and says “service battery” I am not sure if this is just because its in the middle of calibration, or if there is a problem. I assume there is no problem, but worth mentioning that it showed up.

Sam Massa - 답글

Did a full calibration cycle (that took for EVER because this battery (thankfully) lasts so much longer than my old tired one!!! woohoo!) All is well. If you get the red battery light just complete a full calibration cycle and bob’s your uncle!

Sam Massa - 답글

Heh… I ended up opening up the most CPU intensive programs I could muster to drain the battery for calibration. It definitely did last longer that I was anticipating. Yay for a fresh battery!

Mikel Pickett -

Worked for me too—I followed all the steps before I read the comment thread here. Wasn’t that big a deal, although I can’t say I was confident that everything was going to work when I switched it on, but all is good. Great instructions—thanks!

Geoffrey Peake - 답글

my mac won’t start after the replacement. booting in “scan for new hardware” mode, says that the new installed battery is faulty…

iulian miu - 답글

Being as cheap as I am, I bought the battery from Ebay. Tried to be lazy and just pop the battery out of the computer. Opened the case. . .Well it actually flew open as one of the original cells were swollen. Tried to pry the battery out with freeze spray, hoping to freeze the crappy adhesive and hoping it will just pop out. Spark. . .Hiss. . .Smoke. Long story short, I ended up buying iFixit’s Adhesive remover kit. Amazing product. The included cards just cut through that crappy adhesive like butter. Also, I did the repair the long way and took everything out. Best to be safe than sorry as there is a risk in damaging the sensitive logic board with the adhesive remover or with your tools trying to free the crappy batteries from the crappy adhesive. Right now I’m calibrating the battery. Wish I bought the battery from iFixit in the first place to support such a great company with great products. Kudos!

Jeffy - 답글

Went slow and steady. Followed all the steps. Seem to have pulled it off. Everything appears to be working. Amazing guide and great price on the battery. Thank you.

Raza Ahmad - 답글

Why did Apple make this so difficult?

Gary Gruda - 답글

Worked well, but the screen’s black. I tried resetting the SMC, zapping PRAM, and removed/replaced the display connector, but I’ve still got the same problem. FWIW, an external Thunderbolt/MiniDisplay Port screen works w/o an issue.

Anyone have any ideas?

Andy Mowrey - 답글

@amowrey Just a guess, but you might want to check the display cable in steps 37-38. Make sure the socket is clean and the cable is fully inserted and locked in place.

Jeff Suovanen -

Did This Repair using some waterproof pvc playing cards, a syringe squeeze bottle with 99.9% isopropyl and a black stick. Took about 15 minutes to free the battery, just watch out for the flex cables on the trackpad and its no problem. No real need to gut the entire frame. Would of been a bit easier with some heat applied to the outter most cells.

Joshua Sites - 답글

Replaced my battery today, everything works perfectly. Went through steps 1-5 and then 46-50. There is literally no need to disassemble the entire laptop. Thanks for this repair kit :)

Pavel Denisjuk - 답글

By starting at 45, didn’t you meet problems with the two speakers standing in the way? They limit a lot the space in which you can pour the liquid to soften the glue, and are in the way when inserting tools to lift the outer batteries. I’d really like to follow the same procedure and avoid disassembling everything, but I am wondering if I am able to. Maybe is possible to remove partially the speakers? Their cables run under the motherboard so I guess they can’t be taken out without a full disassembly, but maybe they can just be lifted a little? Thanks for any suggestion.

Andrea Viceré -

I replaced my battery after being inspired by the instructions on the process. My MacBook is out of warranty and I suspected Apple would charge me several hundred dollars to fix it and require my laptop for at least a couple days. I didn’t like that proposition and decided to brave the DIY repair.

.

I bought the kit from IFixIt and received it about a week later. I’ve seen the comments about only doing the first five and last five steps. My experience with these types of things is that it’s usually best to clear as much out of the way as possible in case something goes wrong. Fortunately, little went wrong for me by following the instructions provided (well written and sufficiently descriptive).

.

I took my time and made sure I was patient when pulling cables as many of them have seemingly fragile locking mechanisms. Very much appreciate the author’s attention to detail and willingness to produce such a helpful work. As an homage to the DIY process, I made a time lapse of my effort (https://youtu.be/l4J6SFOrCQI).

MIGUEL JARDINE - 답글

Replaced a battery today, guide was very helpful and the repair went perfectly.

My Mac had a swollen battery, to the point where the chassis was bent outward both ways and the laptop wasn’t closing properly. Didn’t notice this early on since it serves as a desktop machine for me and I’m using external displays, mouse and keyboard. There are no Apple service centers in my area, so my only option was to do it myself.

There’s probably no real need to completely disassemble it (acetone, when it reacts with an adhesive used in a mac, turns into a jelly-like substance with no actual risk of flooding the internal components), but I did this anyway just to clean out all the dust inside. Now my mac is as flat, as cold and as silent as new. :)

Thanks for a great guide and kit!

Aivar Kavshevich - 답글

I ordered the battery replacement not really knowing how difficult a surgery it was going to be. I’ve always repaired my old laptops, but never needed to do anything super major like removing the logic board. After the kit arrived, I began to review the replacement guide and was suddenly feeling really overwhelmed. The iFixit tutorial however was a fantastic resource.

Just take your time and be diligently organized and thoroughly follow each step. I used sticky notes and bottle caps to keep and label all the screws and pieces I was removing from the machine. When putting the logic board back in, watch to make sure all the ribbon cables that need reconnected don’t get buried. It’s pretty easy to do.

After everything went back together, the machine powered up and has been working flawlessly. After calibrating the battery, I’m totally satisfied! Thanks, iFixit!

Mikel Pickett - 답글

Great guide! Done the replacement today and everything went well.

Thanks,

Matej

Matej Svržnjak - 답글

just performed this fix and it took less than hour. skipped most of the steps, just doing 1-5 and 46-49.

after CAREFULLY removing trackpad ribbon (46-49) all you need to do is apply solvent and wait 5mins, then reapply solvent and wait another few minutes. from there you don’t even need string; just wedge the card tool and slowly work it under the batteries at the far edges, and proceed to center. that’s it. just make sure your solvent really has the time to saturate the old adhesive. also, running the battery down will help keep the area warm which definitely helps with getting things loosened up.

hope that helps. great tutorial and as usual, excellent product from ifixit.

vas - 답글

Awesome guide, really detailed, every step carefully written down. I had no problems at all to get my MacBook up and running again.

It’s actually easier than it seems, the whole process took me about 1h 30min.

Here’s a time-lapse video for those who are interested in it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yeWb7Yzu...

Jan - 답글

Mode opératoire bien fait et efficace, échange batterie effectué et réussi en 2 h 45 minutes. Merci

Erick ANDRE - 답글

I Just completed this. I also skipped the disassembly of the whole machine as others have pointed out above. My battery was enormously swollen so much so that I wasn’t sure how to get the solvent in underneath it. I was able to push the battery up enough with the plastic cards to get the liquid in and start it working.

I think the swelling also meant that the battery had partially unglued itself so that made it a touch better.

Good luck all who try and thanks to iFixit for their amazing kit which is perfect in every way.

I had no options in Israel that I would trust to do this.

Brian of London - 답글

Completed the guide very well without removing all of the parts.

Good job! Thank you.

alexseceleanu - 답글

Just finished battery replacement. Works great. The guide is perfect. Thank you, IFixit!

Also, I used the opportunity to remove all dirt and dust that gathered inside.

I hope, it going to be cooler now - with funs free of dust.

yukpun - 답글

Just followed the guide successfully. Does anyone know what the case is for re-adhering the replacement battery after going through all that trouble removing adhesive in the first place?

Isani Cayetano - 답글

@isanicayetano It’s a soft-shell battery and needs to be firmly secured in place, so that it doesn’t move around and get damaged, which among other things could cause a fire. Unfortunately since there are no screws or brackets for securing the battery in this design, you have to just re-glue it.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi, can you advise on the shelf life of the iFixit supplied battery? For example, would a battery bought now still be ok to fit in six months, twelve months, or 24 months?

Thanks

Davo - 답글

@davo_b Technically that should be fine, although the battery may be quite dead by then—so after installing it, be prepared to charge it for a while before the system can boot up. However, the battery warranty is for 1 year from date of purchase, so I wouldn’t recommend waiting quite so long.

Jeff Suovanen -

Jeff Hi, many thanks for the quick reply. I have already purchased and, following your excellent instructions, fitted an iFixit Macbook Pro battery without any problems. I believe my MBP is of a spec that should serve me for several more years. I think the main problem in extending my MBP’s life seems to be the availability of a replacement battery though, fingers crossed, I may not need one for another couple of years. How long do you think iFixit will be able to offer the mid-2015 MBP replacement batteries? I’d hope to purchase another replacement to keep my MBP going before the battery becomes obsolete.

Kind regards

Davo - 답글

@davo_b That’s great! As far as future replacements, you may be worrying needlessly—demand for MacBook Pro batteries is pretty steady, and we’re still offering batteries for Core Duo models released over a decade ago. We’re supporting your model for the foreseeable future, so barring catastrophe, I think you can safely check back in a year or two and decide then. Our stock of that battery is a little low at the moment, but that’s part of the normal ebb and flow of inventory—so rest easy, it’s not going away. :) Hope this helps!

Jeff Suovanen -

I just followed the instructions, installed my new battery, and now my computer won’t boot past the login screen. The battery symbol on the login screen shows a triangle with an exclamation point. Network boot is not working either. I’m wondering if I got a bad battery? I emailed customer service last night but haven’t heard back. Has anyone here had this issue?

Garrett Porter - 답글

I am also having this issue. Gonna search google to try and figure it out unless someone can reply on here what is going on?

Kevin Boen Vergara -

Either a problem with the installation, or a faulty battery. This has been discussed in our forum—Replaced battery now I cannot log in—and Google will certainly turn up more. If you need a replacement battery, the customer service team will fix you up as soon as they can. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

I disagree that it’s easy to go straight from step 1 - 5 to removing the battery. In my case, the battery was misaligned to one side, which made the gap between the speaker and battery too steep to slide the ifixit-card underneath. Completed the swap be following the complete guide, which tbh. isn’t too hard. The most time i used on removing the batteries anyway.

Bjørn Wiegell - 답글

Just to add to the confidence of others. I, too, did the repair without all this disassembly. Once the cover is off the back, take the two screws out of the trackpad logic board connection (step 26). then unplug that ribbon cable and pull away from the battery. You can remove the other end of this, but you don’t need to just fold it back. There are two more torx screws holding the battery in, remove them (step 50) then unplug the battery connection. That’s it, then pried up one battery one the end and got some nylon string under it (dental floss didn’t work, broke) and saw back and forth. Once the end section of battery is loose, I used a combination of string and the plastic cards to saw back and forth to cut the double sided tape. Took me 30 minutes. Don’t get me wrong, the ifixit plan is solid and the kit is great but if you can avoid steps, it’s better. less to go wrong in re assembly.

tvstudio65 - 답글

I did this today veeeery carefully. Took probably 2.5 hours start to stop. Booted laptop back up and everything works fine. I was tempted to not do all the logic board etc. but decided to go by iFixit’s guide. Worked well, but be patient, careful and gentle. I made a large piece of paper and placed components with a note of the step number as they came off. Then was easy to locate when re-assembling.

LARS BARFOD - 답글

As already mentioned above, just wanted to confirm that the whole procedure is *not* necessary.

Just do steps 1-5, 46-50 and then use a heat gun to heat the bottom part of the laptop, and a plastic card to carefully detach the old battery by cutting through the adhesive.

It’s super easy and can be done within an hour.

I think this guide should be updated.

Fulvio V - 답글

In order to soften the adhesive, you’d typically need to heat it to around 70° C or higher, often for an extended period. Using a heat gun, it’s fairly easy to overcook it and set the battery on fire, especially if you’re new at this. Including a heat gun would also significantly increase the cost to assemble and ship the battery kit. Happy that it worked out for you, but I hesitate to recommend that method to everyone.

Jeff Suovanen -

Many thanks for these really excellent instructions. Considering that they enabled me as an absolute novice to replace the battery successfully, the authors should be nominated for the literature Nobel prize.

Volker Friese - 답글

This is a bizarre instruction manual. Inexplicably it says to remove all manner of extremely delicate components that are not in the way and seem to have nothing to do with replacing the battery. It could be, as others have said, to protect delicate parts from the adhesive remover. I didn’t need that either and managed to remove the battery by simply prying it out gently. Perhaps the adhesive on others was tougher than mine. Anyway, I’d be hesitant to follow this if I were you.

Kathleen Seward - 답글

I went the easy route and just replaced the battery without taking out the guts of the unit, and it mostly was very straight-forward using the 1-5 and 46-50 technique.

I ran in to two issues. First, step 47, the ZIF connector for the trackpad cable. I found it much easier to take off the cover and connector on the top of the battery rather than the bottom of the battery. Do what works for you. Second, the two cells in the middle were an absolute bear to get out! And I do wish the instructions were a little more clear on explaining that the frame around them are part of the battery assembly and not of the laptop housing! If they get bent a little, no big deal - they’re coming out anyway!

But most importantly - TEST THE LAPTOP BEFORE FINAL REASSEMBLY! Mine worked just fine, which was great. One thing that does concern me about the iFixit battery: the sticky stuff covers 80%+ of the battery - those things are going to be a bear to replace if I ever need to!!!

Wayne West - 답글

Fantastic guide, everything worked. It just takes patience and time, a few hours for me. I bought the ifixit kit and everything was as shown.

The last few steps with the battery were not needed for my situation. I had puffy batteries and could insert acetone under the middle ones like the rest. No need to use two cards from both sides.

murdocca - 답글

Hello,

To anyone asking if it works, yes it does. It is not easy to remove the battery cuz it’ll take sometime but if you are good enough to do the job and repair it yourself then just work on the battery and avoid moving all the parts. If you’re a noob, then love all the parts and then work on the battery. WARNING: just like they said, the glue remover is super strong so make sure not to spill any on anywhere else but underneath the battery to cut the glue.

hope it helps.

Daniel Mazariego - 답글

Hello guys,

How many times do I have to calibrate this battery? I replaced it yesterday myself and everything went well. Today, while using my computer, I noticed that the battery was at 69% then rebooted and went down to 6%. Is there something wrong or did I not calibrate it right?

Daniel Mazariego

Daniel Mazariego - 답글

@poporobright Sorry for the trouble! Looks like you’re already getting some good advice over in our Answers forum (Battery replacement odd behavior ). You shouldn’t have to calibrate the battery more than once, so try the suggested troubleshooting steps—and if that doesn’t do the trick, touch base with the customer support team and see if they want to swap you out for a different battery in case yours has a defect of some kind. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Did anyone have problems with a faulty replacement battery where battery is detected but it doesn’t charge and status is “replace now” ? I have already send it back for a new one coming, i’m afraid to be stuck in the same situation with another faulty battery.

arnau marti - 답글

I also did 1-5 and 46-74. The adhesive remover works great, it comes out of the bottle fast so start with a small hole when you cut the opening. Use the remover sparingly and you’ll have no problem. I spread the remover on the edge of the card as I slid it under that battery in stead of letting the remover “run” under. The whole process took about 45 minuets with no issues. My battery was swollen and not covered by Apple’s recall, just be careful and you shouldn’t have any trouble.

Russell Smith - 답글

Hey buddy,

Did you have any problems with this battery at all?

What OS version are you running? Have you noticed any issues with the laptop at all? Or the battery? Please let me know. I'm on my third battery already coming tomorrow.

Thanks for the help!!

Daniel Mazariego -

My batteries had heated and swollen enough to destroy the factory adhesive pretty much. also they seemed to have less adhesive on them than the replacement batteries did. So it was fairly simple to pry out the factory battery without using the solvent. YMMV.

wengland - 답글

Excellent instructions. The repair was a success and the laptop, which blew it’s charging circuit from an iced-tea mishap, was resurrected! Thanks!d

dhwn - 답글

I did also 1-5 and 46-74. There was no need to use the adhesive remover. As suggested somewhere on YouTube, I would recommend starting to pry the second and fourth sections, since there’s an aluminum ridge on the side of the motherboard on which you can apply lever. Then you can proceed with the outer sections, and finally attack the central ones. All seem to be good, the only minor issue being that the trackpad feedback seems to me a bit less strong than it used to be; I might have applied excessive pull when taking out the central sections of the battery? Or it might be because the swollen battery acted as a resonance chamber? To stay on the safe side, I would advice using the adhesive remover at least on those sections. Anyway the trackpad is fully functional and the feedback is sufficient, so overall I am happy.

Andrea Viceré - 답글

Bought the battery kit and with the instructions was able to get the old batteries out and new one in. Working Perfectly and like new! Thanks iFixit and the guide author. Saved me hundreds! Took about an hour being very cautious with screws and connectors.

My original battery was out of warranty by only 3 months. Batteries were swollen to the point of putting severe pressure on case and track pad.

Nathan Taylor - 답글

Perfect fix — thank you. From start to finish it took me 4 hours.

When you actually open up your computer it may be a bit stressful — the reality is that one mistake could potentially damage your entire computer. It helped me A LOT to take things slow. Go through the directions before you start so you know what is expected and you are not surprised — then everything will be fine. A few tips: 1) I labeled note cards with the step number, and placed the parts I took out of the computer onto the cards — makes things very organized. 2) Work somewhere where you won’t be bothered or have unexpected visitors. My friends visit me frequently with dogs, so, I texted them and asked they don’t enter my room until I let them know. 3) Take it slow and feel comfortable. I wore something cozy and made sure to stay hydrated and focused. Feel free to take a break if you are getting sloppy — drink some water, walk around, go pee, whatever you need to do.

Josh Barry - 답글

Just got a “service battery” warning on my MBP 2015 15”, is it possible to put the adhesive remover along the edge of the card? Or will it be best to take all components out?

JXC - 답글

Die Anleitung war perfekt! Vielen Dank!

Ich habe bei einem MBP das Display und den Akku getauscht. Die Zeitangabe von 2-3 Stunden (eher 3 Stunden) kommt absolut hin.

Z-City - 답글

Really regret following these instructions. As others have said, it’s just way too many delicate components being removed. And given that the main point was to avoid the speakers being damaged by the adhesive remover, I was really disappointed to go through the whole process only to find that, while everything else is working, the speakers no longer work.

I have no idea why they don’t work. I don’t think I’ve damaged their cables. I think the cables are correctly re-seated. Yet both speakers are dead. No sound from anything (though audio through headphones is still fine, and the system preferences correctly identifies whether it is on headphones or internal speakers). Is there something else I need to reset?

Also, although I am careful (not my first rodeo), the latch broke on the keyboard cable. The material is very brittle. I’ve managed to get it to stay well enough, but this is another reason to advise against following these detailed instructions that have you remove so many parts. Old latches are brittle

perl - 답글

After powering off I disconnected the battery and removed the strip that crosses over the battery. I took one strand about a foot long of fine copper wire from an electrical cable (14 or 16 gauge multi strand). I worked the wire under the outer battery on the right, using the wire like a saw, I pulled on each end of the wire a few inches at a time with a full size pliers. Had I held the computer in place with duct tape or other means I could have used two pliers to speed up the process. I repeated the process using a new strand of wire for each battery. It took about 35 minutes to cut the battery loose. Removing and cleaning the adhesive tape took forever, and that was using the adhesive softener and one other product.

In the past I damaged one of the plastic flip up/down connections on another main board, so I thought it best to leave all the components in place.

Joseph O'Brien - 답글

Based on ESD safety guidelines: You should remove all components from top case prior to replacing battery.

in reality it’s a waste of 2-3 hours. I swap these in 45 mins max. Disconnect battery, ribbon cable, and speakers.

afterwards use floss and card to pry up battery. Be careful not to damage cables underneath (riskiest part) mini heat gun does the trick.

This repair honestly should not be listed as max difficulty. It’s misleading and Apple overcharges for this: $1,000 - $1,500 as they treat it as a top case swap.

Ted

Ted Teske - 답글

Hi, I’ve just replaced my battery and everything looks fine until I try to boot the computer up, it starts, there’s the sound and the apple logo and also the bar showing the process but it stops at one tenth of the bar and shut down. Then, it automatically reboots and do the same over and over.

Could it be because the battery is so discharged that the computer doesn’t have enough power or is it something else?(the computer is connected to power cord)

Thanks for help

Hugo Mignot - 답글

Hello

I replaced my battery recently, it was around 50% charged when I powered on. Its an ifixit battery.

I don’t think its a power problem.

Joseph O'Brien -

GET CABLES OUT OF THE WAY, is the lesson. I got Apple’s recall notice on my MacBook Pro battery, but they said it could take two weeks - too long. So I got the iFixit battery replacement kit (with tools). All went seemingly well. When everything was buttoned up I booted, got the startup chime … but no display. Panic. Took the lower case off, checked everything I could see, all appeared well. Booted with the case off - got the display. Case back on, with just a couple of the screws to hold it, booted - got the display. Long story short, everything worked UNTIL I tightened the upper right red case screw (Step 1). lower case off again, discovered the display data cable was sitting just enough on the aluminum post (seen in Step 37) that screw goes into, when I tightened it down it pinched so the display wouldn’t light up. I snugged the cable away from that post, buttoned back up, and all is well. (So far, so good - I now only hope I didn’t damage the cable internally - fingers crossed.)

rpini - 답글

Are there other tutorials for replacing the force touch trackpad for this model?

The one here is a bit different to the one I have, though both are for the same force touch model macbook pro.

For example;

T5 screws in my trackpad cover plate are different from T3 screws for the cover plate in the above guide.

Here is the replacement part I bought.

Thanks,

Monsieur Bond - 답글

댓글 쓰기

조회 통계:

24 시간 전: 174

7일 전: 1,299

30일 전: 5,466

전체 시간: 118,416