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Things heating up inside your MacBook Pro with Retina Display? Could be trouble with the heat sink. Use this guide to remove the heat sink in the Mid 2015 MacBook Pro 15" with Retina display.

Don't forget to clean and re-apply thermal paste if you remove the heat sink. Follow this guide to learn how.

  1. Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
    • Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.1 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

    The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

    anonymous 1286 - 답글

    Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

    anonymous 1286 - 답글

    WAIT!.. STOP.

    iFixit has had a slew of defective batteries that they will require you take out and return (after gluing them in). Search on: "Battery percentage suddenly drops" here on this site. This process is 50 steps to get the new battery in, and another 50 to put all the parts back. For $199, Apple will do the whole repair, warranty it, and also replace the trackpad and the keyboard (because it's easier for THEM to do).

    Ifixit WILL NOT stand behind defective batteries unless you spend another 4-6 hours swapping in a new one. NOT. WORTH. IT. See posts here (Battery percentage suddenly drops from ~60% to 7%) on frustrated customer’s multiple attempts and class-action lawsuits.

    MFMauceri - 답글

    Thank you for this info, you’ve probably saved a lot of time, and hassle (myself included, if I end up going through with this repair).

    Andrew Poindexter -

    The instructions below have you basically taking ALL of the guts out of case. I’ve been doing my own apple repairs since before ifixit was a thing and this one is a handful. My battery was swelling and I wanted to remove it before it burst or bent the case so I took it out without having a replacement and it occurs to me that aside from using the solvent (liquid) to remove the adhesive, you could probably do this only taking the trackpad ribbon out. I have mine reassembled now and will research the best battery to buy but I think installation will take about 5 minutes. See if you can slip a plastic gift card under the battery and wag/saw the adhesive out without the solvent before you go through all of this. It might work. Note, don’t bend or put too much stress on the battery and certainly don’t puncture it…

    br1ansk - 답글

  2. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
    • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

  3. The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange). During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.
    • The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange).

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.

    pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

    jamiegan835 - 답글

    The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.

    Aaron Freidus - 답글

  4. Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.
    • Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.

    You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.

    Aaron Freidus - 답글

    Note that the photo is taken from the hinge side - the other way to the photo in step 3

    Toby Thurston - 답글

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - 답글

  5. Manta(만타) 드라이버 키트

    112 bits for every fix.

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    Manta(만타) 드라이버 키트

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  6. Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board. Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
    • Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

    why is this necessary to remove a hard drive?

    Lawtay - 답글

    @lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - 답글

    Picture doesn’t match the computer. Hard to tell which connector to disconnect

    James Mitchell - 답글

    Hi James, are you sure you have the correct guide for your machine? Try using our MacBook Identification tool.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Habe den Akkustecker beim putzen abgemacht um keinen Stromschlag zu kriegen, jetzt wieder eingebaut. Nun habe ich folgendes Problem: Akku wird geladen, aber steigt niemals ueber % und manchmal geht er trotz Anschluss an das Stromnetz einfach aus. Hat da jemand eine Idee?

    paul - 답글

    I used the identification tool and can confirm what James is seeing. The picture doesn’t match for this step. There is no piece with visible holes punched in it.

    Joshua McFarland - 답글

    There is an extra piece of plastic on the connector, you might want to peel that off too. It’s not in the pictures.

    Ellie B -

  7. Peel the rubber cover up off the right fan and fold it out of the way. Peel the rubber cover up off the right fan and fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the rubber cover up off the right fan and fold it out of the way.

  8. Peel the rubber cover up off the left fan and fold it out of the way. Peel the rubber cover up off the left fan and fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the rubber cover up off the left fan and fold it out of the way.

  9. Remove the small rubber cap from the screw at the end of the heat sink. Remove the small rubber cap from the screw at the end of the heat sink.
    • Remove the small rubber cap from the screw at the end of the heat sink.

    I lost this little cap. Will this cap cause any issues?

    diego - 답글

  10. Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board:
    • Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board:

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 3.4 mm T5 Torx screws

    • When you remove these screws, springy metal brackets securing the heat sink will be released. Take care not to lose these screws when the brackets spring free.

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    1. What are the dimenssions of the “Two 3.4 mm T5 Torx screws“?

    2. Are there any alternative screws that can be used?

    Note: I am asking as inside my macbook I have the screws missing and I cannot manage to find them online, I just managed to find the springy metal brackets.

    Mihai Iusan - 답글

    Remove also the screw for the video card if fitted!

    Petar Dzhuninski - 답글

  11. Flip the two spring clamps out of the way of the heat sink. Remove the heat sink from the MacBook Pro.
    • Flip the two spring clamps out of the way of the heat sink.

    • Remove the heat sink from the MacBook Pro.

    • On reassembly, be sure to clean the CPU and heat sink and reapply thermal compound to the CPU. Follow this guide to learn how.

결론

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

다른 37명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.

Andrew Optimus Goldheart

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On my macbook Pro 2015 it has an extra Square on the heatsink to cover the graphics card. So the Pictures does not look right on this guide. I would share my pictures but it’s not possible in the comments.

Mark Barner - 답글

I don’t have much to add other than that these squares on the GPU and CPU were hindering my ability to completely clean off the previous thermal paste. I actually would like to remove the squares, but would like to hear from folks who might have a sense of how essential it is for thermal transfer (or any other purpose it serves).

Rahul S -

Hey guys when I refreshed the thermal paste on my 2015 15” (top spec) mbp, I noticed four little metallic sponges in that area, one of those came off… I still have it, how critical is it? Should I replace it? If so are there any guides?

Many thanks

AlexMorse - 답글

I have the same issue as well— 2 of mine came off, and I just stuck them back where they were before and let the pressure of the heat sink hold it in place for now. But any expertise on this issue is appreciated!

Rahul S -

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