MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015 Logic Board Replacement

작성자 Andrew Optimus Goldheart (또 다른 기여자 5명)

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MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015 Logic Board Replacement

난이도

어려움

단계

소요 시간

1 - 3 시간

소개

Use this guide to replace the Logic Board in your MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015.

Don't forget to clean and re-apply thermal paste if you remove the heat sink. Follow this guide to learn how.

도구

해당 도구 구매

부품

해당 부품 구매

MacBook Pro 15" Retina (Mid 2015, Integrated Graphics) 2.2 GHz Logic Board

US$499.99

구매

1 단계 Lower Case

Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
Eight 3.1 mm
Two 2.3 mm

편집

The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

anonymous 1286 - 2016년 10월 01일 답글

Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

anonymous 1286 - 2016년 10월 26일 답글

2 단계

Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

편집

3 단계

The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange).

During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.

The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange).
During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.

편집

pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

jamiegan835 - 2016년 06월 29일 답글

The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.

Aaron Freidus - 2018년 09월 16일 답글

4 단계 Battery Connector

Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.

Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.

편집

You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.

Aaron Freidus - 2018년 09월 16일 답글

+1 to above comment

Andrew Saunders - 2019년 01월 19일 답글

Note that the photo is taken from the hinge side - the other way to the photo in step 3

Toby Thurston - 2019년 05월 06일 답글

I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

Dermot O Logical - 2019년 07월 16일 답글

5 단계

Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board.
Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

편집

why is this necessary to remove a hard drive?

Lawtay - 2018년 05월 24일 답글

@lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).

Jeff Suovanen - 2018년 05월 28일

I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

Dermot O Logical - 2019년 07월 16일 답글

Picture doesn’t match the computer. Hard to tell which connector to disconnect

James Mitchell - 2019년 08월 02일 답글

Hi James, are you sure you have the correct guide for your machine? Try using our MacBook Identification tool.

Sam Goldheart - 2019년 08월 22일

Habe den Akkustecker beim putzen abgemacht um keinen Stromschlag zu kriegen, jetzt wieder eingebaut. Nun habe ich folgendes Problem: Akku wird geladen, aber steigt niemals ueber % und manchmal geht er trotz Anschluss an das Stromnetz einfach aus. Hat da jemand eine Idee?

paul - 2019년 08월 27일 답글

I used the identification tool and can confirm what James is seeing. The picture doesn’t match for this step. There is no piece with visible holes punched in it.

Joshua McFarland - 6 일 전10월 16, 2019 답글

6 단계 AirPort/Camera Cables

Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board, and bend them up and out of the way.

The cable connection points are fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.

To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board, and bend them up and out of the way.
The cable connection points are fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.
To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

편집

I seriously hate this step - it is pretty much the only difficult part of the job. Reconnecting these microscopic stinkin connectors is a monumental PITA…

T Rowe - 2017년 10월 24일 답글

Guys, be very carefull with these 3 cables.. If you are not going to replace the whole display, just be careful as much as possible.

Adi - 2017년 12월 03일 답글

When reconnecting these tiny wires, use one hand to guide and align the connector by holding the wire and the other hand to press them down with a flat end of a spudger. Spent 10 minutes figuring it out and connecting the first one, then only a few seconds on both of the remaining connectors :)

If you try to do this with one hand, it’s extremely easy to move them out of the alignment while pressing them down.

Aivar Kavshevich - 2018년 07월 01일 답글

I think there is a better way - where you disconnect the wifi card using the black screw in middle of wire 2 and 3 first and then untie these connectors. I pryed away the connectors but the sockets on the card were all damaged during the process. Ended up having to get a replacement card before reassembly could be completed. So again there are 2 components - connectors which are being pryed away and really fine and delicate socket. Very easy to damage them. Better to take the card off and delicately peel these connectors off. I would not recommend using these pry sticks mentioned here for that.

Abhishek Kathuria - 2018년 08월 16일 답글

ATTENTION ! Cette étape est grandement sous-estimée, aucune mention de la délicatesse de l’opération contrairement à d’autres étapes bien plus facile… De plus, il semble possible de sauter cette étape en déconnectant seulement la carte comme expliquer sur la version anglophone du guide !!! J’ai endommagé le connecteur le plus proche du ventilateur, pour rien… Heureusement, tout semble fonctionner correctement…

Antochny - 2018년 10월 03일 답글

AirPort/Camera Cables? not AirPort/Bluetooth Cables?

Marco Cappelli - 2018년 10월 23일 답글

Je confirme qu’il est plus simple de déconnecter la carte (enlever la vis, et tirer délicatement sur la carte) que d’enlever les trois cables / I confirm that it’s a lot easier to disconnect the Airport card (just remove the screw and pull gently) than removing those 3 wires.

Maen J - 2019년 03월 28일 답글

Agreed with Abhishek - removing the wifi card first makes this much easier.

Tammer Saleh - 2019년 04월 26일 답글

How do you know which is which when reassembling?

Bryan Province - 2019년 10월 04일 답글

7 단계

Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

편집

8 단계

Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.

Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.

Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.
Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.

편집

9 단계

Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.
The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.
Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.
On reassembly, there should be enough adhesive still on these cables to stick them back down to the fan.

편집

10 단계 I/O Board Cable (Top)

Remove the four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable connector covers.

Remove the four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable connector covers.

편집

why is this needed for upper assembly replacement?

Andrew Chu - 2017년 04월 02일 답글

11 단계

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

Remove the left connector cover.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

편집

12 단계

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

Remove the right connector cover.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

편집

13 단계

Peel the top I/O board cable up from the adhesive securing it to the fan.

Peel the top I/O board cable up from the adhesive securing it to the fan.
Remove the cable.

편집

Cable need not be removed.

mayer - 2019년 02월 18일 답글

14 단계 Right Fan

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:
One 5.0 mm screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder
One 4.0 mm screw with a wide head
One 4.4 mm screw

편집

15 단계

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.
Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

편집

16 단계

Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.

The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.

Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.
The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.
Remove the fan.

편집

17 단계 Left Fan

Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

편집

18 단계

Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:
One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a wide head
One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder
One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

편집

19 단계

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.
Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

편집

20 단계

Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.
The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.
Remove the fan.

편집

21 단계 I/O Board

Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

편집

22 단계

Lift the end of the SSD up enough to pass over the speaker directly behind it.

Do not lift the SSD too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket.

Pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Lift the end of the SSD up enough to pass over the speaker directly behind it.
Do not lift the SSD too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket.
Pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.

편집

23 단계

Use the point of a spudger to flip up the locking mechanism on the I/O board connector.

Flip the spudger around and use the flat end to slide the I/O cable out of the connector.

Push on the opened locking mechanism for an easy way to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. This could help prevent accidental damage to the cable or connector contacts.

Use the point of a spudger to flip up the locking mechanism on the I/O board connector.
Flip the spudger around and use the flat end to slide the I/O cable out of the connector.
Push on the opened locking mechanism for an easy way to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. This could help prevent accidental damage to the cable or connector contacts.

편집

24 단계

Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws from the I/O board.

Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws from the I/O board.

편집

Remove the screw holding the heat pipe, it blocks the I/O board from coming out

Gert Cuykens - 2018년 12월 03일 답글

25 단계

Slightly lift the interior edge of the I/O board and pull it toward the center of the MacBook, away from the side of the case.

Slightly lift the interior edge of the I/O board and pull it toward the center of the MacBook, away from the side of the case.
Remove the I/O board.

편집

26 단계 Logic Board Assembly

Remove the two 2.2 mm Torx T5 screws securing the touchpad cable connector cover to the logic board.

Remove the two 2.2 mm Torx T5 screws securing the touchpad cable connector cover to the logic board.
Remove the cover.

편집

27 단계

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the touchpad cable connector from its socket in the logic board.

Slightly twisting the flat end of a spudger is an easy way to pry up the cable connector from these types of sockets.

Be careful to only pry up against the connector, and not the logic board socket.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the touchpad cable connector from its socket in the logic board.
Slightly twisting the flat end of a spudger is an easy way to pry up the cable connector from these types of sockets.
Be careful to only pry up against the connector, and not the logic board socket.

편집

28 단계

Remove a small rubber cap off the screw at the end of the heat sink.

Remove a small rubber cap off the screw at the end of the heat sink.

편집

29 단계

Remove the following six screws securing the logic board assembly to the upper case.

Remove the following six screws securing the logic board assembly to the upper case.
One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw
Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws
One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw (this one is silver and has a taller head than the others)
One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw
One 3.2 mm T5 Torx screw
On reassembly, start all six screws but do not tighten any of them. Move the logic board around until all of the screws are centered in their holes and the ports are lined up with their openings in the side of the upper case. Then tighten all of the screws.

편집

Top left and right screw (red, yellow) are silver, the other ones black.

Peter G - 2019년 06월 04일 답글

30 단계

The following steps will detail disconnecting these six connectors. Be sure to read each step, as these connectors come in different styles that disconnect differently.

The following steps will detail disconnecting these six connectors. Be sure to read each step, as these connectors come in different styles that disconnect differently.
Microphone cable
Left speaker cable
Keyboard data cable
Right speaker cable
Keyboard backlight cable
Display data cable
On reassembly, check to make sure all of these connectors are connected and fully seated in their sockets.

편집

31 단계

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.
Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board.

편집

32 단계

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.
Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

편집

33 단계

Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector.

Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector.

편집

34 단계

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard data cable ZIF socket.

Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard data cable ZIF socket.
Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up.

편집

35 단계

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.
Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

편집

36 단계

Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

편집

37 단계

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer.

편집

+(mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen)

Verwende die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Verschluss des Displaydatenkabels nach oben zu klappen (mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen) und ihn in Richtung MagSafe 2-Powerport zu drehen.

Mihály Plajner - 2018년 09월 16일 답글

38 단계

Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Do not touch the contacts on the data connector or its socket with your fingers or any tools, as you may deposit oils or damage the pins.

Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.
Do not touch the contacts on the data connector or its socket with your fingers or any tools, as you may deposit oils or damage the pins.
Gently bend the display data cable toward the display hinge, to expose the screws on the MagSafe 2 board.

편집

39 단계

Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws from the MagSafe 2 board.

Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws from the MagSafe 2 board.

편집

40 단계

Lift and pull the entire logic board assembly away from the wall of the upper case.

When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case.

Lift and pull the entire logic board assembly away from the wall of the upper case.
When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case.

편집

41 단계 Logic Board

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining flap on the HDMI data transfer cable.

Gently pull the HDMI data transfer cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Just like the display data cable, be sure to pull the connector out of its socket parallel to the face of the logic board. Do not lift the connector up. Do not touch the connector.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining flap on the HDMI data transfer cable.
Gently pull the HDMI data transfer cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
Just like the display data cable, be sure to pull the connector out of its socket parallel to the face of the logic board. Do not lift the connector up. Do not touch the connector.

편집

42 단계

Pull the MagSafe 2 connector straight out of its socket (parallel to the logic board).

Pull the MagSafe 2 connector straight out of its socket (parallel to the logic board).

편집

43 단계

Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort board to the logic board.

Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort board to the logic board.

편집

44 단계

Lift the end of the AirPort board up enough to pass over the heat sink directly behind it.

Do not lift the AirPort board too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket.

Pull the AirPort board straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Lift the end of the AirPort board up enough to pass over the heat sink directly behind it.
Do not lift the AirPort board too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket.
Pull the AirPort board straight out of its socket on the logic board.
There is a slightly adhesive thermal pad beneath the AirPort board. Be sure to reapply this when reinstalling the board.

편집

45 단계

Remove the four 3.4 mm T5 Torx screws from the heat sink brackets.

These screws hold two springy heat sink brackets in place, which hold the heat sink against the CPU. They may spring up when you remove the first screw.

Remove the four 3.4 mm T5 Torx screws from the heat sink brackets.
These screws hold two springy heat sink brackets in place, which hold the heat sink against the CPU. They may spring up when you remove the first screw.
Remove the heat sink brackets.