소개
Use this guide to replace the Logic Board in your MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015.
Don't forget to clean and re-apply thermal paste if you remove the heat sink. Follow this guide to learn how.
도구
부품
- MacBook Pro 15" Retina (Mid 2015, Integrated Graphics) 2.5 GHz 16 GB RAM Logic Board
- MacBook Pro 15" Retina (Mid 2015, Integrated Graphics) 2.8 GHz 16 GB RAM Logic Board
- MacBook Pro 15" Retina (Mid 2015, Dual Graphics) 2.5 GHz Logic Board
- MacBook Pro 15" Retina (Mid 2015, Dual Graphics) 2.8 GHz Logic Board
- MacBook Pro 15" Retina (Late 2013-Mid 2015) Screw Set
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Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
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Eight 3.1 mm
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Two 2.3 mm
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pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....
The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.
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Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.
You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.
+1 to above comment
Note that the photo is taken from the hinge side - the other way to the photo in step 3
I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.
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Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
@lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).
I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.
Picture doesn’t match the computer. Hard to tell which connector to disconnect
Hi James, are you sure you have the correct guide for your machine? Try using our MacBook Identification tool.
I used the identification tool and can confirm what James is seeing. The picture doesn’t match for this step. There is no piece with visible holes punched in it.
There is an extra piece of plastic on the connector, you might want to peel that off too. It’s not in the pictures.
Ellie B -
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Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board, and bend them up and out of the way.
When reconnecting these tiny wires, use one hand to guide and align the connector by holding the wire and the other hand to press them down with a flat end of a spudger. Spent 10 minutes figuring it out and connecting the first one, then only a few seconds on both of the remaining connectors :)
If you try to do this with one hand, it’s extremely easy to move them out of the alignment while pressing them down.
I think there is a better way - where you disconnect the wifi card using the black screw in middle of wire 2 and 3 first and then untie these connectors. I pryed away the connectors but the sockets on the card were all damaged during the process. Ended up having to get a replacement card before reassembly could be completed. So again there are 2 components - connectors which are being pryed away and really fine and delicate socket. Very easy to damage them. Better to take the card off and delicately peel these connectors off. I would not recommend using these pry sticks mentioned here for that.
ATTENTION ! Cette étape est grandement sous-estimée, aucune mention de la délicatesse de l’opération contrairement à d’autres étapes bien plus facile… De plus, il semble possible de sauter cette étape en déconnectant seulement la carte comme expliquer sur la version anglophone du guide !!! J’ai endommagé le connecteur le plus proche du ventilateur, pour rien… Heureusement, tout semble fonctionner correctement…
AirPort/Camera Cables? not AirPort/Bluetooth Cables?
Agreed with Abhishek - removing the wifi card first makes this much easier.
How do you know which is which when reassembling?
I highly suggest against disconnecting these wires. It's very likely that you will damage either sockets or wires. Do as others recommend, just remove the network card. Prying tool is not good for this step. I broke 1 out of 3 sockets. I wish I read all the comments before operating. Now I gotta get another card :(
what size driver does this require? My pentalobe doesnt seem to be the right size.
As many have mentioned, don’t disconnect the wires is reallly a pain in the a… to connect them, it wont be easy and will take a lot of patience….. Better disconnect the card and carefully leave the wires connected.
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Remove the four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable connector covers.
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Remove the right connector cover.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:
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One 5.0 mm screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder
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One 4.0 mm screw with a wide head
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One 4.4 mm screw
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Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.
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Remove the fan.
I recommend pushing the cable connector away with a spudger instead of using the fan to pull it away…there seems to be too much stress put on the cable using the method proposed here.
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Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.
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Remove the fan.
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Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws from the I/O board.
Remove the screw holding the heat pipe, it blocks the I/O board from coming out
Also make sure the I/O cable removed on previous step is out of the way before screwing this down
Keith Kern - 답글
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Remove the two 2.2 mm Torx T5 screws securing the touchpad cable connector cover to the logic board.
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Remove the cover.
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Remove the following six screws securing the logic board assembly to the upper case.
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One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw
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Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws
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One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw (this one is silver and has a taller head than the others)
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One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw
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One 3.2 mm T5 Torx screw
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard data cable ZIF socket.
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Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up.
The retaining flap broke on me during reassembly. I was careful, but it kind of got stuck. Pay extra attention and if it doesn’t give, don’t force it.
The last picture doesn’t show it but my cable had blue plastic material on both top and bottom, which I had not noticed during disassembly. It slid in nicely but now not sure if it is an insulating material of some kind that should have been set aside?
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
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Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.
Note that the connector sits inside of a little “box” which is the socket. Don’t try to pry up underneath that but stay under where the wires are connected. The pictures are good, and you can see the “box” in the last picture.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.
On reassembly it would be great to have some tips on how to properly locate this connector…it’s kind of fussy.
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer.
+(mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen)
Verwende die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Verschluss des Displaydatenkabels nach oben zu klappen (mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen) und ihn in Richtung MagSafe 2-Powerport zu drehen.
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Lift and pull the entire logic board assembly away from the wall of the upper case.
When reassembling, be careful not to leave any cables (such as keyboard backlight connector, step 36) under the board.
Also, make sure to align the right (and left) I/O properly, making sure the tabs on each port are underneath the lip of the aluminum frame. In my case, I couldn’t push the logic board far enough to align the screws until I had done this.
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining flap on the HDMI data transfer cable.
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Gently pull the HDMI data transfer cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the heat sink.
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On reassembly, be sure to clean the CPU and heat sink and reapply thermal compound to the CPU. Follow this guide to learn how.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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댓글 8개
Any tips on where to purchase a replacement logic board?
Isaac Hake - 답글
Can i use the mid-2015 logic board to mid-2012?
This logic board is the model whit just one graphic card, in the other model the logic board have one IC close to processor
Can the heatsink be removed without taking out the logic board?
i have a mid 2015 2.5ghz MacBook pro. Can I replace the defective logic board with the 2.8ghz logic board?
geomatrixx - 답글
The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.
anonymous 1286 - 답글
Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.
anonymous 1286 - 답글
WAIT!.. STOP.
iFixit has had a slew of defective batteries that they will require you take out and return (after gluing them in). Search on: "Battery percentage suddenly drops" here on this site. This process is 50 steps to get the new battery in, and another 50 to put all the parts back. For $199, Apple will do the whole repair, warranty it, and also replace the trackpad and the keyboard (because it's easier for THEM to do).
Ifixit WILL NOT stand behind defective batteries unless you spend another 4-6 hours swapping in a new one. NOT. WORTH. IT. See posts here (Battery percentage suddenly drops from ~60% to 7%) on frustrated customer’s multiple attempts and class-action lawsuits.
MFMauceri - 답글
Thank you for this info, you’ve probably saved a lot of time, and hassle (myself included, if I end up going through with this repair).
Andrew Poindexter -
The instructions below have you basically taking ALL of the guts out of case. I’ve been doing my own apple repairs since before ifixit was a thing and this one is a handful. My battery was swelling and I wanted to remove it before it burst or bent the case so I took it out without having a replacement and it occurs to me that aside from using the solvent (liquid) to remove the adhesive, you could probably do this only taking the trackpad ribbon out. I have mine reassembled now and will research the best battery to buy but I think installation will take about 5 minutes. See if you can slip a plastic gift card under the battery and wag/saw the adhesive out without the solvent before you go through all of this. It might work. Note, don’t bend or put too much stress on the battery and certainly don’t puncture it…
br1ansk - 답글