소개

Hearing things? Not hearing things? Use this guide to replace the right speaker in your 15" Mid 2015 MacBook Pro Retina.

Note that the right speaker is on the right of the machine while you're using it, and on the left while you're working on it.

  1. Remove the following pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
    • Remove the following pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.1 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

  2. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
    • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

  3. The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange). During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.
    • The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange).

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.

  4. Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.
    • Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.

  5. Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board. Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
    • Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

  6. Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board, and bend them up and out of the way. The cable connection points are fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable. To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.
    • Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board, and bend them up and out of the way.

    • The cable connection points are fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.

    • To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

  7. Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way. Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

  8. Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.

  9. Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan. The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them. Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.
    • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

    • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

    • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

    • On reassembly, there should be enough adhesive still on these cables to stick them back down to the fan.

  10. Remove the four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable connector covers.
    • Remove the four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable connector covers.

  11. Remove the left connector cover. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Remove the left connector cover.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

  12. Remove the right connector cover. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Remove the right connector cover.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

  13. Peel the top I/O board cable up from the adhesive securing it to the fan.
    • Peel the top I/O board cable up from the adhesive securing it to the fan.

    • Remove the cable.

  14. Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder

    • One 4.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a wide head

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

  15. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

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  17. Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket. The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.
    • Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.

    • The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.

    • Remove the fan.

  18. Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way. Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

  19. Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a wide head

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

  20. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  21. Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket. The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.
    • Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.

    • The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.

    • Remove the fan.

  22. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

  23. Lift the end of the SSD up enough to pass over the speaker directly behind it. Do not lift the SSD too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket. Pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Lift the end of the SSD up enough to pass over the speaker directly behind it.

    • Do not lift the SSD too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket.

    • Pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  24. Use the point of a spudger to flip up the locking mechanism on the I/O board connector. Flip the spudger around and use the flat end to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. Push on the opened locking mechanism for an easy way to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. This could help prevent accidental damage to the cable or connector contacts.
    • Use the point of a spudger to flip up the locking mechanism on the I/O board connector.

    • Flip the spudger around and use the flat end to slide the I/O cable out of the connector.

    • Push on the opened locking mechanism for an easy way to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. This could help prevent accidental damage to the cable or connector contacts.

  25. Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws from the I/O board.
    • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws from the I/O board.

  26. Slightly lift the interior edge of the I/O board and pull it toward the center of the MacBook, away from the side of the case. Remove the I/O board.
    • Slightly lift the interior edge of the I/O board and pull it toward the center of the MacBook, away from the side of the case.

    • Remove the I/O board.

  27. Remove the two 2.2 mm Torx T5 screws securing the touchpad cable connector cover to the logic board. Remove the cover.
    • Remove the two 2.2 mm Torx T5 screws securing the touchpad cable connector cover to the logic board.

    • Remove the cover.

  28. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the touchpad cable connector from its socket in the logic board. Slightly twisting the flat end of a spudger is an easy way to pry up the cable connector from these types of sockets. Be careful to only pry up against the connector, and not the logic board socket.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the touchpad cable connector from its socket in the logic board.

    • Slightly twisting the flat end of a spudger is an easy way to pry up the cable connector from these types of sockets.

    • Be careful to only pry up against the connector, and not the logic board socket.

  29. Remove a small rubber cap off the screw at the end of the heat sink.
    • Remove a small rubber cap off the screw at the end of the heat sink.

  30. Remove the following six screws securing the logic board assembly to the upper case.
    • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board assembly to the upper case.

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw (this one is silver and has a taller head than the others)

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.2 mm T5 Torx screw

    • On reassembly, start all six screws but do not tighten any of them. Move the logic board around until all of the screws are centered in their holes and the ports are lined up with their openings in the side of the upper case. Then tighten all of the screws.

  31. The following steps will detail disconnecting these six connectors. Be sure to read each step, as these connectors come in different styles that disconnect differently.
    • The following steps will detail disconnecting these six connectors. Be sure to read each step, as these connectors come in different styles that disconnect differently.

    • Microphone cable

    • Left speaker cable

    • Keyboard data cable

    • Right speaker cable

    • Keyboard backlight cable

    • Display data cable

    • On reassembly, check to make sure all of these connectors are connected and fully seated in their sockets.

  32. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket. Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board. Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board.

  33. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board. Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

    • Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

  34. Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector. Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector.
    • Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector.

  35. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard data cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard data cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up.

  36. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board. Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

    • Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

  37. Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  38. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer.

  39. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Do not touch the contacts on the data connector or its socket with your fingers or any tools, as you may deposit oils or damage the pins.
    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    • Do not touch the contacts on the data connector or its socket with your fingers or any tools, as you may deposit oils or damage the pins.

    • Gently bend the display data cable toward the display hinge, to expose the screws on the MagSafe 2 board.

  40. Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws from the MagSafe 2 board.
    • Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws from the MagSafe 2 board.

  41. Lift and pull the entire logic board assembly away from the wall of the upper case. When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case. When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case.
    • Lift and pull the entire logic board assembly away from the wall of the upper case.

    • When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case.

  42. Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:
    • Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw (with 4.5 mm shoulder)

    • 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

  43. The right speaker cable is lightly adhered to the upper case. Peel the right speaker cable up to free it from the upper case.
    • The right speaker cable is lightly adhered to the upper case.

    • Peel the right speaker cable up to free it from the upper case.

    • On reassembly, tuck the cable up against the aluminum frame above the battery.

  44. Remove the right speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in. Remove the right speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in.
    • Remove the right speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in.

결론

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

다른 14명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.

Andrew Optimus Goldberg

회원 가입일: 2009년 10월 17일

409,220 평판

안내서 412개 작성하였습니다

iFixit iFixit 회원

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안내서 8,301개 작성하였습니다

My Mac book pro 15” Mid 2015 got the right side speaker issue. I have ordered the speaker from iFixit and I am able to replace the speaker by following the steps given above. Thanks to iFixit.

KRISHNA PRASAD PSR - 답글

Is there any way replace right speaker without remove the mainboard? Can we cut off the cable socket of fail speaker to get speaker out without remove the mainboard, and then when reassembling, we put the cable wire lie on the mainboard?

Thank you!

Tai Le.

Tai Le - 답글

Excellent. Successfully replaced RH speaker in my 2015 retina MBP. Took about 3 hours.

Tricky bit: Before screwing main board back into case I forgot to first make sure the left speaker wire, keyboard light cable, etc were all poking above the board (rather than squidged underneath), so had to retrace some steps…. i.e., make sure that none of the connectors are stuck under the board.

My tips:

1. use correct screwdrivers which are also magnetic (to hold screws), and also to use a plastic spudger where shown in instructions.

2. Get a couple little bowls (like might hold sauce) and place screws for case in one, and some other bits in another.

3. Use couple of upturned post-it notes and stick the little screws on the tacky strip while noting with pen underneath what size, and what for.

4. For some bits (cable end cover plates, logic board, etc) rather than try to keep track of all these different screws I immediately loosely placed them back in the chassis mounting holes for safekeeping, after removing each part.

Ray Lowe - 답글

Insane how many steps need to be done for such simple device

Rombout Versluijs - 답글

This guide was awesome. 2 hardest parts where reinstalling the logic board without any ribbon cables under it, and reconnecting the antenna lines.

Joseph Dale - 답글

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