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Hearing things? Not hearing things? Use this guide to replace the right speaker in your 15" Mid 2015 MacBook Pro Retina.

Note that the right speaker is on the right of the machine while you're using it, and on the left while you're working on it.

  1. Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
    • Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.1 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

    The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

    anonymous 1286 - 답글

    Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

    anonymous 1286 - 답글

    WAIT!.. STOP.

    iFixit has had a slew of defective batteries that they will require you take out and return (after gluing them in). Search on: "Battery percentage suddenly drops" here on this site. This process is 50 steps to get the new battery in, and another 50 to put all the parts back. For $199, Apple will do the whole repair, warranty it, and also replace the trackpad and the keyboard (because it's easier for THEM to do).

    Ifixit WILL NOT stand behind defective batteries unless you spend another 4-6 hours swapping in a new one. NOT. WORTH. IT. See posts here (Battery percentage suddenly drops from ~60% to 7%) on frustrated customer’s multiple attempts and class-action lawsuits.

    MFMauceri - 답글

    Thank you for this info, you’ve probably saved a lot of time, and hassle (myself included, if I end up going through with this repair).

    Andrew Poindexter -

    The instructions below have you basically taking ALL of the guts out of case. I’ve been doing my own apple repairs since before ifixit was a thing and this one is a handful. My battery was swelling and I wanted to remove it before it burst or bent the case so I took it out without having a replacement and it occurs to me that aside from using the solvent (liquid) to remove the adhesive, you could probably do this only taking the trackpad ribbon out. I have mine reassembled now and will research the best battery to buy but I think installation will take about 5 minutes. See if you can slip a plastic gift card under the battery and wag/saw the adhesive out without the solvent before you go through all of this. It might work. Note, don’t bend or put too much stress on the battery and certainly don’t puncture it…

    br1ansk - 답글

    I’m having a problem trying to get the screws off. I have a set of pentalobe screwdriver set. I found one screwdriver that fits perfectly on one set of screws, but I am unable to unscrew it. I tried using some force pushing the screwdriver into the screw, but nothing happens. Any suggestions?

    henry_k_wong - 답글

    All the screws on mine are the same length for some reason.

    ccfman2004 - 답글

  2. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
    • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

  3. The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange). During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.
    • The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange).

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.

    pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

    jamiegan835 - 답글

    The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.

    Aaron Freidus - 답글

    You don't have to take so many steps.

    santa1234 - 답글

    I have magnets- is this the wrong guide?

    Benjamin Jones - 답글

  4. Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.
    • Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.

    You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.

    Aaron Freidus - 답글

    Note that the photo is taken from the hinge side - the other way to the photo in step 3

    Toby Thurston - 답글

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - 답글

  5. Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board. Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
    • Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

    why is this necessary to remove a hard drive?

    Lawtay - 답글

    @lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - 답글

    Picture doesn’t match the computer. Hard to tell which connector to disconnect

    James Mitchell - 답글

    Hi James, are you sure you have the correct guide for your machine? Try using our MacBook Identification tool.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Habe den Akkustecker beim putzen abgemacht um keinen Stromschlag zu kriegen, jetzt wieder eingebaut. Nun habe ich folgendes Problem: Akku wird geladen, aber steigt niemals ueber % und manchmal geht er trotz Anschluss an das Stromnetz einfach aus. Hat da jemand eine Idee?

    paul - 답글

    I used the identification tool and can confirm what James is seeing. The picture doesn’t match for this step. There is no piece with visible holes punched in it.

    Joshua McFarland - 답글

    There is an extra piece of plastic on the connector, you might want to peel that off too. It’s not in the pictures.

    Ellie B -

    There is a battery cover with two T5 screws that must be removed before prying on the connector.

    Dennis Newton - 답글

    Hi Dennis,

    Thanks for bringing this up! I’ll work on verifying this and adjust the guide as needed.

    Arthur Shi -

  6. Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board, and bend them up and out of the way. The cable connection points are very fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable. To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.
    • Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board, and bend them up and out of the way.

    • The cable connection points are very fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.

    • To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

    I seriously hate this step - it is pretty much the only difficult part of the job. Reconnecting these microscopic stinkin connectors is a monumental PITA…

    T Rowe - 답글

    Guys, be very carefull with these 3 cables.. If you are not going to replace the whole display, just be careful as much as possible.

    Adi - 답글

    When reconnecting these tiny wires, use one hand to guide and align the connector by holding the wire and the other hand to press them down with a flat end of a spudger. Spent 10 minutes figuring it out and connecting the first one, then only a few seconds on both of the remaining connectors :)

    If you try to do this with one hand, it’s extremely easy to move them out of the alignment while pressing them down.

    Aivar Kavshevich - 답글

    I think there is a better way - where you disconnect the wifi card using the black screw in middle of wire 2 and 3 first and then untie these connectors. I pryed away the connectors but the sockets on the card were all damaged during the process. Ended up having to get a replacement card before reassembly could be completed. So again there are 2 components - connectors which are being pryed away and really fine and delicate socket. Very easy to damage them. Better to take the card off and delicately peel these connectors off. I would not recommend using these pry sticks mentioned here for that.

    Abhishek Kathuria - 답글

    ATTENTION ! Cette étape est grandement sous-estimée, aucune mention de la délicatesse de l’opération contrairement à d’autres étapes bien plus facile… De plus, il semble possible de sauter cette étape en déconnectant seulement la carte comme expliquer sur la version anglophone du guide !!! J’ai endommagé le connecteur le plus proche du ventilateur, pour rien… Heureusement, tout semble fonctionner correctement…

    Antochny - 답글

    AirPort/Camera Cables? not AirPort/Bluetooth Cables?

    Marco Cappelli - 답글

    Je confirme qu’il est plus simple de déconnecter la carte (enlever la vis, et tirer délicatement sur la carte) que d’enlever les trois cables / I confirm that it’s a lot easier to disconnect the Airport card (just remove the screw and pull gently) than removing those 3 wires.

    Maen J - 답글

    Agreed with Abhishek - removing the wifi card first makes this much easier.

    Tammer Saleh - 답글

    How do you know which is which when reassembling?

    Bryan Province - 답글

    I highly suggest against disconnecting these wires. It's very likely that you will damage either sockets or wires. Do as others recommend, just remove the network card. Prying tool is not good for this step. I broke 1 out of 3 sockets. I wish I read all the comments before operating. Now I gotta get another card :(

    Adomas Aleknavičius - 답글

    what size driver does this require? My pentalobe doesnt seem to be the right size.

    jack32878 -

    As many have mentioned, don’t disconnect the wires is reallly a pain in the a… to connect them, it wont be easy and will take a lot of patience….. Better disconnect the card and carefully leave the wires connected.

    ilukewitschalejandro - 답글

    Just finished replacing both speakers using this guide. VERY good. I did not remove the individual wires - just removed the card with wires attached. Seemed to be the safer, easier way to go.

    Dwight Vaughn - 답글

    Just finished replacing my display LVDS Cable with this guide and another one; awesome. I as well just removed the card and left the wires attached. Much easier.

    Alex DeLeon - 답글

    Can anyone explain how to remove the card instead of wires? About to try that out instead, but am going in blind! I see the screw holding the card down, just not sure what to do next…

    Peter Scalzitti IV - 답글

    This is one of those skills that you get experience right after you need it.

    I learned these connectors doing RF work. They require a deft touch. Put slight downward pressure while you work to align the pair. Once you get the hang of it, you will know when they are aligned, and they will go back together with a light push and make a slight snap.

    If they don’t immediately pop together with a light push, they’re not aligned quite right. Don’t force them, they have a very limited number of make/break cycles.

    The cables should retain their bent shape well enough to show where each goes. One it too short to go too far off, and one is too long to fit to the nearest connection.

    prreitz - 답글

  7. Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way. Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

  8. Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.

    This connector is very fragile, the left edge of mine cracked off and ended up in the socket. And during figuring that out the cable or the socket appears to have got damaged because “no camera detected”.

    Malcolm Hall - 답글

    All connectors are incredibly fragile. I damaged the fan connector locking latch just by trying to lock it back in place. Fortunately the cable, by the way it inserts, it’s being pushed in rather than pulled on, however, I do have concerns with it not making a proper connection. Malcolm, I am wondering how you fixed your damaged connector?

    Robert Habib - 답글

    The connector slides into the socket so using the flat end of the Splunger under the cable and gently lifting draws the connector apart.

    Dennis Newton - 답글

  9. Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan. The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them. Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.
    • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

    • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

    • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

    • On reassembly, there should be enough adhesive still on these cables to stick them back down to the fan.

    Leave them attached. Remove the single screw holding the board in place and gently wiggle the airport card out (see Airport card removal instructions). Fold the card up and towards the rear of the computer. Now follow the instructions for the camera cable removal. Lift the airport card with the three leads attached and the camera cable up and fold the, to the outside of the case.

    George R. O'Connor - 답글

  10. Remove the four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable connector covers.
    • Remove the four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable connector covers.

    why is this needed for upper assembly replacement?

    Andrew Chu - 답글

    My cable connector covers are not screwed down. Mid 2015 15” MBP. That’s the computer in the title of this article so idk.

    Andrew Sauk - 답글

  11. Remove the left connector cover. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Remove the left connector cover.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

  12. Remove the right connector cover. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Remove the right connector cover.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

    When re-assembling, the right connector cover is the smaller of the two.

    richardgraham_2000 - 답글

  13. Peel the top I/O board cable up from the adhesive securing it to the fan.
    • Peel the top I/O board cable up from the adhesive securing it to the fan.

    • Remove the cable.

    Cable need not be removed.

    mayer - 답글

    Why is this suddenly the Top I/O cable rather than just the I/O cable? This may seem trivial, but the change in terminology suggests its not the cable we just unfastened and to look for another one.

    prreitz - 답글

  14. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

    • One 5.0 mm screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder

    • One 4.0 mm screw with a wide head

    • One 4.4 mm screw

  15. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    This step needs a larger picture to show the retaining flap hinged upward. This photo doesn’t convey what the words say.

    prreitz - 답글

  16. Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket. The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.
    • Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.

    • The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.

    • Remove the fan.

    I recommend pushing the cable connector away with a spudger instead of using the fan to pull it away…there seems to be too much stress put on the cable using the method proposed here.

    Bill Klemme - 답글

    Using a spudger does help alleviate stress on the cable. I also used it to help get the cable up from being adhered to the logic board.

    Joshua McMillan - 답글

    Adding to the other comments, the fan is very light and has no resistance lifting out of the place it sits in.

    I carefully lifted the fan just before there was any tension on the cable.

    With the fan held in my right hand and spudger in my left, I moved the spudger under the fan approaching from the left side.

    This allowed me to easily place the flat end of the spudger under the cable where the thicker plastic sits and gently pry the cable up until the cable broke away from the body.

    I then used the pointed part of the spudger to gently pry the connector part of the cable away from the socket while gently pulling the fan away until the cable was disconnected and the entire fan was free.

    David Carroll - 답글

  17. Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way. Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

  18. Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a wide head

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

  19. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    All connectors are incredibly fragile. I didn’t have any problem unlocking the cable but rather after finishing the job and closing the hinged retaining flap. The hinged flap wiggles, it moves and wasn’t 100% properly aligned. It’s not like it was badly out of place and I tried to force it, no, on the contrary, I was being extremely delicate, but it wiggles in place so so very slightly since it’s not a real hinge. You need to make sure it hasn’t moved before applying any pressure trying to close it or IT WILL break off. It’s frustrating that I damaged the fan connector, not by prying on the socket, but in the last step of just locking the latch.

    Fortunately the cable, by the way it inserts, it’s being pushed in rather than pulled on, however, I do have concerns with it maybe not making a proper connection. I am now wondering how other’s have fixed your damaged connectors? As I mentioned at the beginning, I’m sure I’m not the first since all the connectors are incredibly fragile. Any feedback?

    Robert Habib - 답글

  20. Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket. The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.
    • Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.

    • The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.

    • Remove the fan.

    Same comment as on step 16…use spudger.

    Bill Klemme - 답글

  21. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

  22. Lift the end of the SSD up enough to pass over the speaker directly behind it. Do not lift the SSD too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket. Pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Lift the end of the SSD up enough to pass over the speaker directly behind it.

    • Do not lift the SSD too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket.

    • Pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  23. Use the point of a spudger to flip up the locking mechanism on the I/O board connector. Flip the spudger around and use the flat end to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. Push on the opened locking mechanism for an easy way to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. This could help prevent accidental damage to the cable or connector contacts.
    • Use the point of a spudger to flip up the locking mechanism on the I/O board connector.

    • Flip the spudger around and use the flat end to slide the I/O cable out of the connector.

    • Push on the opened locking mechanism for an easy way to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. This could help prevent accidental damage to the cable or connector contacts.

    Oh, you rotated the computer while I wasn’t watching.

    prreitz - 답글

  24. Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws from the I/O board.
    • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws from the I/O board.

    Remove the screw holding the heat pipe, it blocks the I/O board from coming out

    Gert Cuykens - 답글

    It's interesting that you had to remove the heat pipe screw. This didn't seem to be in the way for me. The I/O board came out quite easily without any issues.

    But… it could be different for others as it was for you. I just thought I'd share my experience.

    David Carroll -

    Also make sure the I/O cable removed on previous step is out of the way before screwing this down

    Keith Kern - 답글

  25. Slightly lift the interior edge of the I/O board and pull it toward the center of the MacBook, away from the side of the case. Remove the I/O board.
    • Slightly lift the interior edge of the I/O board and pull it toward the center of the MacBook, away from the side of the case.

    • Remove the I/O board.

  26. Remove the two 2.2 mm Torx T5 screws securing the touchpad cable connector cover to the logic board. Remove the cover.
    • Remove the two 2.2 mm Torx T5 screws securing the touchpad cable connector cover to the logic board.

    • Remove the cover.

  27. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the touchpad cable connector from its socket in the logic board. Slightly twisting the flat end of a spudger is an easy way to pry up the cable connector from these types of sockets. Be careful to only pry up against the connector, and not the logic board socket.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the touchpad cable connector from its socket in the logic board.

    • Slightly twisting the flat end of a spudger is an easy way to pry up the cable connector from these types of sockets.

    • Be careful to only pry up against the connector, and not the logic board socket.

  28. Remove a small rubber cap off the screw at the end of the heat sink.
    • Remove a small rubber cap off the screw at the end of the heat sink.

  29. Remove the following six screws securing the logic board assembly to the upper case.
    • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board assembly to the upper case.

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw (this one is silver and has a taller head than the others)

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.2 mm T5 Torx screw

    • On reassembly, start all six screws but do not tighten any of them. Move the logic board around until all of the screws are centered in their holes and the ports are lined up with their openings in the side of the upper case. Then tighten all of the screws.

    Top left and right screw (red, yellow) are silver, the other ones black.

    Peter G - 답글

    Screw with blue circle was in a slightly different position on my logic board; the gold plating surrounding it is the giveaway.

    prreitz - 답글

  30. The following steps will detail disconnecting these six connectors. Be sure to read each step, as these connectors come in different styles that disconnect differently.
    • The following steps will detail disconnecting these six connectors. Be sure to read each step, as these connectors come in different styles that disconnect differently.

    • Microphone cable

    • Left speaker cable

    • Keyboard data cable

    • Right speaker cable

    • Keyboard backlight cable

    • Display data cable

    • On reassembly, check to make sure all of these connectors are connected and fully seated in their sockets.

  31. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket. Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board. Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board.

  32. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board. Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

    • Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

  33. Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector. Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector.
    • Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector.

  34. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard data cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard data cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up.

    The retaining flap broke on me during reassembly. I was careful, but it kind of got stuck. Pay extra attention and if it doesn’t give, don’t force it.

    vincentdrummer - 답글

    The last picture doesn’t show it but my cable had blue plastic material on both top and bottom, which I had not noticed during disassembly. It slid in nicely but now not sure if it is an insulating material of some kind that should have been set aside?

    Bill Klemme - 답글

    I can confirm blue colour of cable tip.

    Mighty Sashiman -

  35. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board. Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

    • Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

    Note that the connector sits inside of a little “box” which is the socket. Don’t try to pry up underneath that but stay under where the wires are connected. The pictures are good, and you can see the “box” in the last picture.

    Bill Klemme - 답글

  36. Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    On reassembly it would be great to have some tips on how to properly locate this connector…it’s kind of fussy.

    Bill Klemme - 답글

    Thanks for calling this out. I took a picture of the socket after disconnecting. I can see why it might have been less obvious on reassembly.

    David Carroll -

  37. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer.

    +(mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen)

    Verwende die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Verschluss des Displaydatenkabels nach oben zu klappen (mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen) und ihn in Richtung MagSafe 2-Powerport zu drehen.

    Mihály Plajner - 답글

    My mid-2015 has a flexible plastic tape on the cable lock bar, pulling the tape up with tweezers easily rotated the locking bar.

    prreitz - 답글

  38. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Do not touch the contacts on the data connector or its socket with your fingers or any tools, as you may deposit oils or damage the pins.
    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    • Do not touch the contacts on the data connector or its socket with your fingers or any tools, as you may deposit oils or damage the pins.

    • Gently bend the display data cable toward the display hinge, to expose the screws on the MagSafe 2 board.

    The wording of the instruction: “Pull the display data cable STRAIGHT OUT of its socket on the logic board” could lead to errors. It almost happened to me.

    Instead you should word it: “Pull the display data cable parallel to the face of the logic board being careful to keep it straight and NOT LIFT UP on the cable”.

    I realize you mention it later in the warning immediately below, however, by first saying “pull the cable straight out” leads to confusion and could lead the user to attempt to interpret “PULL STRAIGHT OUT” as “PULL UP” unsuccesfully only to later notice, maybe after breaking it, that there was a warning.

    Wording it properly the first time will make the warning unnecessary.

    Robert Habib - 답글

    I had the same thought as I almost proceeded without noticing the red text warning.

    I especially think the second warning about not touching the contacts on the data connectors should be listed before the instructions on removing it.

    David Carroll -

    Agree with Robert. Suggest “SLIDE the display cable to the right, out of its socket…” would be less misleading.

    prreitz - 답글

  39. Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws from the MagSafe 2 board.
    • Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws from the MagSafe 2 board.

  40. Lift and pull the entire logic board assembly away from the wall of the upper case. When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case. When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case.
    • Lift and pull the entire logic board assembly away from the wall of the upper case.

    • When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case.

    When reassembling, be careful not to leave any cables (such as keyboard backlight connector, step 36) under the board.

    Andrey Pirozhenko - 답글

    Also, make sure to align the right (and left) I/O properly, making sure the tabs on each port are underneath the lip of the aluminum frame. In my case, I couldn’t push the logic board far enough to align the screws until I had done this.

    Alek Curless - 답글

    Yes. This step is crucial. Thanks for pointing it out!

    jonvdez -

    I was struggling to align it and was beginning to get frustrated. I had to look back at photos to make sure the tabs had to go under the lip of the aluminum frame. Unfortunately I read your comment after the fact. Thank you.

    Robert Habib -

  41. Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:
    • Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw (with 4.5 mm shoulder)

    • 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

  42. The right speaker cable is lightly adhered to the upper case. Peel the right speaker cable up to free it from the upper case.
    • The right speaker cable is lightly adhered to the upper case.

    • Peel the right speaker cable up to free it from the upper case.

    • On reassembly, tuck the cable up against the aluminum frame above the battery.

    Small comment on starting the reassembly, make sure to check picture on step 30 so that all connectors are exposed and not covered by logic board, I wasted some time putting the logic board back in and then having to remove it again to expose some of the connectors I missed.

    Rafael Lüder - 답글

    note that it’s possible (even easy) to destroy the right speaker during installation - there’s a metal boss sticking up (when case is upside down) that will hit the speaker.

    mine came back from apple damaged last week and I just swapped that speaker to fix it.

    keen - 답글

  43. Remove the right speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in. Remove the right speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in.
    • Remove the right speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in.

결론

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

다른 58명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.

Andrew Optimus Goldheart

회원 가입일: 2009년 10월 17일

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안내서 410개 작성하였습니다

iFixit iFixit 회원

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My Mac book pro 15” Mid 2015 got the right side speaker issue. I have ordered the speaker from iFixit and I am able to replace the speaker by following the steps given above. Thanks to iFixit.

KRISHNA PRASAD PSR - 답글

Is there any way replace right speaker without remove the mainboard? Can we cut off the cable socket of fail speaker to get speaker out without remove the mainboard, and then when reassembling, we put the cable wire lie on the mainboard?

Thank you!

Tai Le.

Tai Le - 답글

I know this is 2 years too late probably, but you can by removing just the IO board and a few screws from the right side of the motherboard. You should be able to flex it enough without damaging it to gently pull the speaker cable out from under the board.

Zach -

Excellent. Successfully replaced RH speaker in my 2015 retina MBP. Took about 3 hours.

Tricky bit: Before screwing main board back into case I forgot to first make sure the left speaker wire, keyboard light cable, etc were all poking above the board (rather than squidged underneath), so had to retrace some steps…. i.e., make sure that none of the connectors are stuck under the board.

My tips:

1. use correct screwdrivers which are also magnetic (to hold screws), and also to use a plastic spudger where shown in instructions.

2. Get a couple little bowls (like might hold sauce) and place screws for case in one, and some other bits in another.

3. Use couple of upturned post-it notes and stick the little screws on the tacky strip while noting with pen underneath what size, and what for.

4. For some bits (cable end cover plates, logic board, etc) rather than try to keep track of all these different screws I immediately loosely placed them back in the chassis mounting holes for safekeeping, after removing each part.

Ray Lowe - 답글

Insane how many steps need to be done for such simple device

Rombout Versluijs - 답글

This guide was awesome. 2 hardest parts where reinstalling the logic board without any ribbon cables under it, and reconnecting the antenna lines.

Joseph Dale - 답글

I lost all my love for APPLE / MAC after JOBS passed away. This company and its product are going to sh&t. Been a MACINTOSH user since 1992.

Mark Lugo - 답글

U ok? Like sure I get that this is a pretty complicated repair for one small speaker part but like why post this here. If you don’t like apple anymore then fine sure, but these comments should be about comments for the repair, not speaking about the “good ol’ days” before Steve Jobs died. Also why are so many things capitalized? “APPLE” “MAC” and “MACINTOSH” do not need to be capitalized, and they even then they don’t add anything to the comment like if you were to act like you were shouting. Same with the JOBS part. Sorry for correcting, just kinda had to. This is also prob a good year late but here we are. :) Have a nice day.

Ohhi There -

do you think there’s a way to to install the speakers from the 2018 15” MacBook Pro into this model with some modifications to the speaker case? Its about the only thing I really miss from the newer model

thebook55555 - 답글

Whole process took about 3 hours but went well as I had all required tools and some prior experience.

Agree that most difficult part is ensuring that all ribbon cables and connectors are outside logic board

and not underneath it during reinstallation….the antenna connectors were also a bit tricky - I use a binocular

magnifier on my reading glasses and strong work light. Also had air duster can on hand and isopropyl alcohol and cotton buds to clean

up interior of mac along the way - quite a lot of dust inside. Although mac sounds better now with replacement right

speaker it is still not perfect…I wonder whether audio drivers are also implicated in my original problem (fuzzy distortion

on right speaker especially of lower frequencies)…..

Richard Cox - 답글

I stopped after step 29 and then finagled the speaker cable out, and replaced it pretty easily. I just pulled up the motherboard a bit

Chase Lambert - 답글

Is it worth replacing the battery while doing this fix?

David Kim - 답글

I just did this and yes, its almost the same (time-consuming) steps to get to the battery as to get to the speakers.

martin froehlich -

good and comprehensive guide. if only the replacement parts were of the same quality.

martin froehlich - 답글

Ive done screen replacements on iPhone 4 and 6 with the instructions with these people and now both speaker replacements on my wifes Mac…. Always awesome detail, always complete… Thank you again!!!

Keith Kern - 답글

This is the first time I am disassembling a macbook. Thanks to the author, i was able to replace both the speakers:)

S/O V S Pakianathan Pavithren - 답글

I could not have done my speaker replacement without this. Many thanks! Went to YouTube first and found a lot of dumb stuff. This is perfect! I agree with Ray Lowe about making sure all the connectors are sticking out before fastening the big board.

I had a piece of paper for each step that had parts/screws, drew a diagram and stuck each screw into it’s own little hole in the diagram.

Bill Klemme - 답글

Great guide. I replaced the battery last week (speaker went bad a couple of days before battery was replaced). I didn’t remove all the components to replace the battery - used the string/floss/fishing line and pry method to remove old swollen battery. Having done that, I was ready to tackle the speakers. The iFixit video for battery replacement shows pretty much this whole process as well, but much easier to scroll through this guide.

Dwight Vaughn - 답글

Is this a manufacture fault in “RIGHT SPEAKER” in “MBP 15in, 2015 min”.. Where so many complaints even a complete tutorial about that.

Mine got issue too. with noise…

Muhammad Farooqi - 답글

Great instructions.

I replaced both right and left speakers by following these instructions.

The only gotcha was that I had a couple of the ribbon wires stuck underneath the logic board at first during reassembly, so as you slide it in make sure to count that all the wires are on top, otherwise you may need to rewind a step or two.

I was worried that this was going to take a very long time when I started, but I was done with everything in roughly an hour.

Metin Ufuk Ergener - 답글

Im curious if anyone here had an issue with the right speaker blowing after an SSD upgrade using a NVME replacement.

I had no issues with my speaker until I did the swap.

Dj Neff - 답글

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