MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2018 Battery Replacement

Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.

Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:

sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."

sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove six screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

Four 4.7 mm screws

Two 6.6 mm screws

Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.

Pull up on the suction handle just enough to open a small gap under the lower case.

Slide the corner of an opening pick into the gap you just created underneath the lower case.

Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro.

Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip.

Lift the front edge of the lower case (the side opposite the display hinge) enough to slide your fingertips underneath and get a good grip on it.

Pull firmly to slide the lower case towards the front edge of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.

Pull first at one corner, then the other.

Remove the lower case.

Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.

When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.

Peel up and remove the insulating sticker covering the battery board, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.

If the cover doesn't peel up easily, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive underneath, and try again.

Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector.

Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.

Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.

Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.

Pry up and disconnect the locking flap on the connector at the opposite end of the battery board data cable.

Slide the battery board data cable out of its socket on the battery board, and remove it completely.

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

Use a spudger to lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the cover bracket for the keyboard and trackpad cable connectors.

Remove the bracket.

Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

Apply mild heat to the trackpad ribbon cable to soften the adhesive securing it to the battery.

Carefully peel the trackpad cable up off the battery, and push it out of the way.

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 13 screws securing the trackpad assembly:

Nine 5.8 mm screws

Four 4.9 mm screws

Swing the display open slightly, but keep the MacBook upside-down. The trackpad assembly should separate and lay flat on the display.

Carefully feed the trackpad's ribbon cable through its slot in the chassis.

As you remove the trackpad assembly, be very careful not to lose the nine small metal washers resting on the screw posts. (They will fly off and get lost with very little provocation.)

Remove the trackpad assembly.

Use your spudger to disconnect the keyboard by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the cover on the display board flex cable.

Remove the display board flex cover.

Using a T3 Torx driver, remove the two 1.7 mm screws securing the bracket for the display board cable connector.

Remove the display board cable connector bracket.

Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 2.0 mm screws from the hinge covers (two screws on each side).

Remove the two hinge covers.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.4 mm screws securing the cover bracket for the Touch ID and headphone jack cable connectors.

Remove the bracket.

Disconnect the headphone jack flex connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Disconnect the power button and Touch ID sensor by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

Using a T3 Torx driver, remove the 1.3 mm screw securing the cover bracket for the Touch Bar digitizer connector.

Using your tweezers, slide the bracket toward the side edge of the MacBook Pro until it clears the slotted retaining tab on the logic board.

Remove the bracket.

Disconnect the Touch Bar digitizer cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the bracket for the Touch Bar display cable connector.

Remove the bracket.

Disconnect the Touch Bar display cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

Using a T3 Torx Driver:

Remove the two 1.3 mm screws securing the Thunderbolt flex cable cover on the left.

Remove two more 1.3 mm screws from the Thunderbolt cable cover on the right.

Remove the cover brackets from both Thunderbolt cable sockets.

Use a spudger to disconnect the left-side Thunderbolt flex cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Pry from the inside edge, nearest the fan.

Gently push the flex cable connector off to the side so it doesn't interfere with logic board removal.

Repeat to disconnect the Thunderbolt flex cable connector on the opposite side.

Carefully push the flex cable connector aside so there's clearance for the logic board to come out without snagging.

Disconnect the two speaker connectors by sliding the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable near its connector.

Gently twist or pry up to disconnect both speakers.

Peel up any tape covering the microphone cable connector socket.

Open the locking flap on the microphone cable's ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Disconnect the microphone by pulling its cable toward the fan until it releases from its socket.

If possible, pull on the tape attached to the cable, rather than the cable itself, to reduce the risk of damage.

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the single 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle.

Disconnect all three antenna cables by prying each one straight up from its socket.

Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.

Remove all ten screws securing the logic board assembly:

Two 2.6 mm T3 Torx screws

Five 2.9 mm T5 Torx screws

One 3.7 mm T5 Torx screw

One 3.9 mm T8 Torx screw (large head)

One 4.0 mm T8 Torx screw

Peel up (but don't remove) the two rubber vibration damping strips from the adhesive holding them to the fans.

If needed, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive and make the dampers easier to separate.

Lifting from the left side, remove the logic board.

Check the alignment of the rubber vibration dampers, and adjust them as needed.

Feed the antenna cable bundle through the gap between the logic board and heat sink, and make sure it lines up correctly as you lower the board into place.

Verify that no cables get trapped under the board as you install it. Check each marked location carefully.

Remove the two screws securing the battery board:

2016-2017 models: Use a T5 Torx driver to remove both 3.5 mm screws.

2018-2019 models: Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove both 3.2 mm screws.

To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

Additionally, use painter's tape to seal off the area under the trackpad as best you can. Optionally, you may also layer an absorbent towel directly underneath the trackpad area to soak up any excess adhesive remover.

To control the flow of adhesive remover, raise the back edge (hinge side) of your MacBook Pro a few inches using a book or foam block.

Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about possible skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

Apply a few drops of adhesive remover underneath the two battery cells on the right, starting along the edge nearest the fan.

Add a few more drops of adhesive remover in between the two battery cells on the right, so that it flows down underneath the lower battery cell.

Wait about two minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate and weaken the battery adhesive before you proceed to the next step.

After a couple minutes, insert one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery, starting from the lower edge of the bottom, right-most cell.

Wiggle the card from side to side and slide it all the way underneath both battery cells.

Lift the cells to fully separate the adhesive, but don't try to remove them from your MacBook yet.

Leave the plastic card temporarily underneath the cells to prevent the adhesive from re-bonding as you proceed to the next step.

Switch to the left side of the MacBook Pro, and repeat the previous step to separate two more battery cells.

Leave the second plastic card in place temporarily.

Apply a few drops of adhesive remover along the top edges of the two center battery cells.

Be mindful of leaks, and apply more adhesive remover along the side edges if needed.

After a couple minutes, retrieve your first plastic card and insert one corner under the top edge of one of the center battery cells.

Wiggle it from side to side and slide it underneath the battery cell until all the adhesive separates.

Retrieve your second plastic card and repeat the previous step to separate the remaining center battery cell.

If you had trouble getting the card underneath any of the battery cells, try working a piece of floss or wire underneath the battery cell and pull it side-to-side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive.

Lift and remove the battery.

Peel off any large strips of adhesive using tweezers or gloved fingers.

Scrape away any remaining chunks of adhesive with a plastic tool, and clean the underlying areas with adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol. Wipe in one direction (not back and forth) until the chassis is clean and ready for your new battery.

If your battery came with adhesive pre-installed on the bottom, flip it over and carefully peel away the liner to expose the adhesive. If your battery did not come with adhesive, apply a thin double-sided adhesive tape such as Tesa 61395 to keep your battery in place.

Carefully position the battery and set it into place.

Press and hold each cell firmly for 5-10 seconds to secure it to the lower case.

After your battery is properly positioned and installed, peel off and discard the clear plastic liner from the top.

Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.