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MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2011 배터리 교체

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  1. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2011 배터리 교체, 하단 케이스: 1 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • 하단 케이스를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 다음 나사 열 개를 풀어주세요:

    • 13.5mm (14.1mm) Phillips/십자 나사 세 개.

    • 3mm Phillips/십자 나사 일곱 개

    • 이 나사들을 풀때 나사들이 약간 기울어져 나오는 것에 주목하세요. 같은 방법으로 다시 조여야 합니다.

    Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

    Bizarre much?

    Will - 답글

    It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

    Andrew Janke -

    I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!

    xtophr -

    I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

    leonie - 답글

    Great advise! Love it! :)

    Ririds -

    I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

    Now I use these:

    http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...

    The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

    Richard Sato -

    I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

    Roscoe -

    I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

    jelimoore -

    Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

    maccentric -

    I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

    Nils -

    @Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

    Roger - 답글

    Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

    So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

    wresnick - 답글

    Hi,

    Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

    H Stahl -

    MacBookPro8,2

    Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

    Mountain Lion

    May someone help me?

    I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

    Piero - 답글

    To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

    1982sketcher -

    Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

    - zerø K

    zeroK - 답글

    These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

    Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.

    Thanks!

    Marcos - 답글

    During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

    kusi - 답글

    There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

    Print the repair guide.

    Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

    When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

    You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

    Same thing with any part you remove.

    splashzoneent - 답글

    Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

    Tommy Kedar -

    Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

    nclarke36 -

    Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

    It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

    SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .

    SOME TRICKS -

    1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

    2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

    3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

    cheers- Durango CO!

    Dgodrummer - 답글

    Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

    kevicoll409 - 답글

    The link above is no longer available.

    Kristina Graham -

    I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.

    Pete Banks - 답글

    The instructions say that I am removing PH00 screws. I found that my MBP, mid ‘12, Retina has pentalobe screws instead!

    jsandersonq - 답글

    This laptop definitely originally shipped with Phillips screws—but, Apple has been known to replace Phillips screws with pentalobes when one of their devices is brought in for service. Sorry for the rude surprise! Fortunately the correct driver is easy to find nowadays. [Blatant self-promotion alert!] If you support free repair manuals, consider picking one up from iFixit. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Me, too, and it’s plausible that this machine has been serviced by Apple in the past, replacing the screws as Jeff Suovanen suggests.

    iFixit shipped a pentalobe bit with the kit, but it’s too large for the actual screws, so it looks like I now need to get another bit. But what size?

    Jeff’s link is to a driver with a P5 bit, and that page links to a P2 screwdriver, but since I don’t know what size I actually need (and I don’t have a micrometer to hand) I’m reluctant to buy two on spec.

    Norman Gray -

    (The bit in the kit appears to be a P6, so I’m inclined to order a P5 and see what happens)

    Norman Gray -

    You’re using the wrong repair guide. This guide is for the 2012 NON-Retina MBP. You have a Retina MBP. The stock case screws in the 2012 NON-Retina are all Phillips, just as the guide says.

    Steven Wymor -

    To keep track of screws, I used the suggestions above by taping a photo of the lower case to a piece of corrugated cardboard and inserting/taping the screws in place. Also, as some have noted, the screws go back in at a slight angle; they are angled toward the center of the unit.

    Kristina Graham - 답글

    If your vision, like mine, is getting too fuzzy to be able to distinguish between a tiny Phillips screwdriver and a tiny Tri screwdriver, there’s an easy way. With a Phillips (or a Pozidrive) you can get two opposite wings to reflect the light from a lamp or window straight towards your eye at the same time. With a Tri (or Penta) you can only get one wing to reflect at a time, however much you twiddle it.

    Alan Waller - 답글

    There’s a very easy way to avoid cross-threading a screw thread, any size.

    Put the screw into its hole and start by turning it gently, slowly BACKWARDS. When you hear a little “Click!” sound, the male thread has just passed the opening in the female thread and is in exactly the right position to enter into it correctly when you start to turn in the correct forward direction.

    Remember, all drivers except hex (Allen key) and TorX need pressure to avoid slipping out and damaging the head. So even when you want to turn it in with LOW moment/torque, keep the CONTACT PRESSURE high.

    Alan Waller - 답글

    The keep the pressure on is on point. In my case once I loosened my first screw I thought I could relief my initial pressure. It was a mistake. I was doing the whole thing very slowly as a precaution. That helped me notice that the Phillips screw driver was sliding up out of the screw head. Not being sure why, I put pressure back on the screw driver until almost all the screw was out of the hole. Once out, I examined closely to find out that the threads have some sort of coating. It looks to me like some kind of locktite. Then I understood the importance of keeping the pressure on all the way through. It made me uneasy having to keep so much pressure on such tiny screws, but I found it was the only way to prevent damage to the “slots” on the heads. Anyway, all of them suffered some degree of damage, but I was able to successfully remove them and reinstall all of them back in their original holes.

    Martin Mejia -

    After reading this page on iFixit several times, I just could not face all the work of replacing the Logic Boards on two MacBookPro 2011s even if I was prepared to pay approx 400 USD (which I wasn’t). Then I read the reviews of a couple of folks who’d stripped down their machines and put their logic boards in the oven and, it worked! I wondered, if I just used my new Steinel Hot Air Tool (heat gun in my language) recently delivered from iFixit, on the logic board in-situ, without removing it? So I removed the battery, hard drive, and RAM and unplugged all the leads I could see WITHOUT removing anything else physically. Then using the 500 degrees set on the gun (setting 2) I ‘played’ the gun over the logic board for about 60 seconds on machine one with the restart problem (plus latterly, not completing start-up). Long story short… it worked! I spent a long time getting the s/w to load, but the commentary is too short to let me relate that part… ping me if I can help you do the same! blackaye@gmail.com

    Ian Black - 답글

  2. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2011 배터리 교체: 2 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • 하단 케이스 벤트 근처를 두 손으로 들어올려 하단 케이스를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 클립 두 개를 분리하세요.

    • 하단 케이스를 분리하고 치워 놓으세요.

    What is the maximum amount of RAM that can be installed in this MacBook?

    michael - 답글

    16 GB is the max

    Bradon Kelley -

    I can’t get the back panel off !! Removed all 10 screws but the panel is still on. Not a quick easy lift like in the picture of videos on youtube what going on…are the hidden screws locking tabs?

    Tachyon - 답글

    Solved the tabs were hard to get off to the point I thought I was going to bend the back case off before it would let go.

    Tachyon - 답글

  3. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2011 배터리 교체, 배터리 커넥터: 3 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2011 배터리 교체, 배터리 커넥터: 3 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • 특정 수리는 (예. 하드 드라이브) 배터리를 분리할 필요가 없지만 배터리를 분리하면 전자 제품이 실수로 단락되는 것을 방지합니다. 배터리를 커넥터를 분리하지 않으면 마더보드 일부에 전기가 공급될 수 있으므로 주의하세요.

    • Spudger/스퍼저 가장자리를 사용하여 배터리 커넥터를 로직 보드 소켓에서 위로 들어 올리세요.

    • 커넥터의 짧은 양쪽을 위로 들어 올려 소켓에서 "조금씩 걸어 나오도록" 하세요.

    nails work pretty well as well...

    Sibe Jan Kramer - 답글

    At first sight I was confused when I read the description at this step, 'cause it seemed that disconnecting the battery connector was optional, in order to eliminate static discharge. While it's a helpful advice in other circumstances (as mentioned as an example changing hard drives), when changing the battery it is not an option - you have to disconnect the battery connector.

    It would have been better to mention the optional disconnecting recommendation in a side-note.

    Other than that, an excellent guide!

    Damienn - 답글

    the fact that this step is optional can not be stressed enough. i tried disconnecting the battery and in the process it short circuited which now leaves me with an even more expensive problem than i had before when i just wanted to change hard drives (at least the new hard drive works fine..)

    the hard drive changing worked though.

    nina - 답글

    Any tool used to pry on the battery connector must be non metallic, to prevent unintentional short circuit between the connector pins. In my case, my index finger nails were strong enough.

    Martin Mejia -

    Excellent guide, it was as easy as a breeze to replace my battery. I can't believe I nearly followed Apple in their saying that this part was not user replaceable. Great job for this description, and many thanks. iFixIt is THE reference for Mac owners.

    Patrick.

    Patrick Demaret - 답글

    So - I have a weird comment about this. I wanted to make sure that I was getting the right model - so I opened up my laptop and then thought "well, why not just remove the battery while i'm in here, it's shot anyway". Though, I forgot about the stupid screws (Apple really did us over on that one!). Though I disconnected the battery connector and didn't bother to re-connect it when I was finished and just put the cover back on.

    Here's the weird part - when I went to turn my laptop back on...MY BATTERY WAS RECOGNIZED...AND WORKING! I was under the impression that the connector "connects" the battery's charge to the laptop, but this just doesn't make sense! Plus, now my very dead battery is in "normal" condition according to the system report. I haven't worked for apple, but have about 5 years of IT experience and am baffled by this! I'm starting to think i've experience a miracle! Has this happened to anyone else?

    Shelly - 답글

    Possibly disconnecting the battery caused the System Management Controller to reset. That might have been your problem rather than the battery itself. See http://osxdaily.com/2010/03/24/when-and-...

    Duke Briscoe -

    I'd just like an advise of where to dispose the old battery. Thanks

    Jaime Serafim - 답글

    Any Best Buy or Batteries + Bulbs accepts batteries for recycling in their stores. Many other stores such as Home Depot do as well.

    xtophr -

    Office Depot will take any batteries and dispose of them for free

    silas -

    My battery connector pulled off parallel to the board surface

    Mazo - 답글

    I tried spudging the corner closer to the wires which was probably a bad idea. The corner broke off! I can't believe it was that brittle. So be careful. If it did it again, I'd aim for the corners AWAY from the wires or the sides themselves, though I seem to recall there not being much of a lip.

    Dave Kitabjian - 답글

    I used the spudger to gently ease the battery connector out. I then placed a q-tip between the connector and it’s socket to avoid making an accidental connection. A toothpick or some other soft stick might also work.

    Kristina Graham - 답글

    My battery connector had a shiny metal cover over it like a male USB plug. I had to take the 3 peace symbol screws oit and remove the battery before I could access thr plug properly. My battery plug also came off parallel to the board by walking the black plastic part off the metal part towards the battery. It required quite a bit of force to walk it off the connector. I broke a spudger trying. Something nonconductive but strong like a wittled down bamboo chopstick could work well.

    Pii - 답글

    Translate to Spanish:

    Para ciertas reparaciones (por ejemplo, el disco duro), no es necesario desconectar el conector de la batería, pero evita cualquier cortocircuito accidental de la electrónica en la placa base. Si no desconecta el conector de la batería, tenga cuidado ya que partes de la placa base pueden estar electrificadas.

    Use el borde de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería hacia arriba desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    Es útil hacer palanca hacia arriba en ambos lados cortos del conector para "sacarlo" de su zócalo.

    Pakito Villaseñor - 답글

    The BATTERY MUST BE DISCONNECTED - it is NOT OPTIONAL if you are going to remove the logic board.

    These instructions are for Removing The Logic Board, so if that is what you are going to do the battery MUST be disconnected.

    The informational item beginning with the words “For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), disconnecting the battery connector is not necessary … “ is NOT applicable to a set of instructions on removing a logic board and it should be deleted from this otherwise excellent set of instructions.

    Michael Walsh - 답글

    In my opinion the RAM should be removed first - i.e., before the battery is removed.

    The RAM DIMMS are just in the way if they are left in their sockets on the logic board until step 33.

    I cannot see any useful reason to not remove them very early in the sequence.

    Michael Walsh - 답글

    I disconnected the battery because it is an opportunity to reset the SMC (which is how the SMC has to be reset in some older Macs.)

    Barb - 답글

  4. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2011 배터리 교체: 4 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • 배터리 케이블을 로직 보드 소켓에서 약간 구부려 멀리하여 작업 도중 실수로 연결하지 않도록 하세요.

    My battery connect was like mid 2010 model

    Iain Friend - 답글

    Why not go ahead and remove the battery at this point instead of bending the battery connector back (see steps 23 -25 below)?

    BilMcKelvy - 답글

    Translate to Sanish: Doble el cable de la batería ligeramente lejos de su zócalo en la placa lógica para que no se conecte accidentalmente mientras trabaja.

    Pakito Villaseñor - 답글

  5. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2011 배터리 교체, 배터리: 5 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • 배터리를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 7.4mm 3-점 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.

    Where can I suggest that iFixit add a cross-referenced note/warning when purchasing a replacement battery (or other parts that require odd tools) that you also need to purchase yet another special-purpose *&$%#(%@ screwdriver, "because Apple"!!

    I had to wait for weeks to find time to complete this repair, and now have to wait weeks longer for another chance.

    Note to self: read the entire guide before purchasing, AND before starting the repair, AND while you're doing the repair...

    seijihuzz01 - 답글

    I preferred to use the Y0 for these screws, the Y1 felt too big for the screws they used with my battery.

    Aschwin de Hoog - 답글

    Are these Tri-wing or Tri-tip? Perhaps there isn't a difference but I've seen references to both.

    Robert Hammett - 답글

    I found that I could not remove the Tri-Wing screws with the guide recommended Y1 bit. It was way too large and instantly started stripping the screw. The Y0 bit fits perfectly. I believe the guide incorrectly recommends the Y1. There is also a 3rd Tri-Wing screw in the top left corner of the batters (same orientation as the guide) located UNDER a small black plastic flap.

    Vincent Glon - 답글

    For Logic board removal, I did not find it necessary to remove the 3 tri-point screws or the battery, the board came out no problem.

    Jokton Strealy - 답글

    I did not need to remove the tri-wing screws or the battery to remove the Logic board on my MBP. The logic board comes right out no problem.

    Jokton Strealy - 답글

    As many people above mentioned, I failed to check the tools required. I thought since I’d done other minor fixes/replacements that I’d already have everything I needed but didn’t have that blasted tri-tip screw driver. I got impatient though and forced a small flat head to work with the pliable screw material. Hopefully I didn’t ruin my ability to ever take them out again.

    Tyler Penrod - 답글

    I bought a tool-kit 1.5 years ago to replace the stock HDD with SSD. There’s only one screwdriver of Y type: an index on its facet that reads “CR-V Y2.0“. Will it do? I don’t understand the nomenclature.

    Elijah - 답글

    Replying to myself: I discovered that that screwdriver is a perfect fit for the screw’s in question bit.

    Elijah -

  6. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2011 배터리 교체: 6 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • 상단 케이스 배터리와 광학 드라이브 사이의 경고 라벨을 조심히 벗기고 추가 3-점 나사를 드러내세요.

    • 배터리를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 마지막 7.4mm Y0 3-점 나사를 풀어주세요.

    • 배터리에서 라벨을 떼지 마세요.

    Two of the three plastic screw eyelets on my old battery were broken - I guess someone had dropped the computer at some time. So these two little bits of black plastic fell down into the Unibody when I lifted the battery out. I’m glad I saw them so they didn’t rattle around and cause trouble later on!

    Alan Waller - 답글

    I also had all three of the plastic screw eyelets broken off of the battery after I unscrewed. Wasn’t a problem as I was only replacing the battery.

    silas - 답글

    Putting these screws back in was the only problem I ran into – I had to realign the battery a few times before they went in easily.

    Philip Machanick - 답글

  7. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2011 배터리 교체: 7 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • 부착된 플라스틱 당김 탭을 사용하여 배터리를 상단 케이스에서 분리하세요.

    • 새 배터리를 설치하는 경우 설치 후 보정해야 합니다.

    • 배터리를 100% 충전한 다음 최소 두 시간 더 충전하세요. 그런 다음 플러그는 뽑고 정상적으로 사용하여 배터리를 방전하세요. 배터리 부족 경고가 나타나면 작업을 저장하고 배터리 부족으로 인해 절전 모드가 활성화될 때까지 노트북을 켜놓으세요. 최소한 5시간 이상을 기다리고 나서 노트북을 중단없이 100% 충전하세요.

    • 새 배터리를 설치한 다음 비정상적 작동 또는 문제가 발생하면 MacBook의 SMC를 재설정해야 합니다.

    ifixit kit i bought linked to from here says to discharge below 10% then charge to 100%, but this says to charge, then discharge, then charge. Guess I’ll follow the instructions here, but would be good to update the notes to say whether to disregard the card that comes with the kit or not.

    Nathan Loyer - 답글

    The instructions here in the guide are the most up-to-date. It takes a little longer to make changes/updates to printed materials. Sorry for any confusion!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    WARNING!

    When I lifted my dead battery out, I saw two old 3 mm Phillips case screws lying loose in the bottom of the Unibody. I lifted them out using the magnetism of the Phillips #00 screwdriver.

    On gently shaking the case I could hear that there was another loose item still in there somewhere, so I carefully turned the laptop over to have it fall out – and the whole hard disk fell out, though it remained hanging by its cable! I discovered that the two screws holding the retaining strip (that runs the whole length of the hard disk between it and the DVD unit) had been completely loose!

    Nothing broke, but it was a nasty surprise!

    I had bought this machine second-hand as factory refurbished with twelve months guarantee – and gotten three old case screws and a nasty surprise for free! Apart from that, I’ve been really pleased with it.

    Alan Waller - 답글

    I purchased this battery and kit for my late 2011 MacBook Pro on Wednesday and received it today; Monday. Great timing with shipping! Instructions were VERY handy. I almost missed the screw in STEP 6. Thanks for that guys! The kit is exactly what was needed and the battery came out smoothly and replacement went in without any issue!

    Derek Lipscomb - 답글

    After there complete discharge, it certainly needed helped figuring out how long to recharge – it kept telling me another hour and 30 minutes or so for a while. I hope now it knows as it is useful to have an idea how long it’s going to take.

    Philip Machanick - 답글

    How long should it take to drain when using it normally (just websurfing), after charging to 100% and waiting 2+ hours that first time?

    Annelisse Fifi - 답글

    I noticed after first full charge, the battery lasted a little less than 3 hours w constant web surfing… will it improve?

    yetixhunting - 답글

    yetixhunting - Sep 15, 2022.... Batteries are mass produced. it's not necessary that all the product exhibit the same characteristics.

    It's advisable, that you request for a replacement.

    The correct procedure to calibrate the new battery after it's installed, is to use it till discharge to 25% and then charge it to 100% and hold the charging process for 2 more hours

    Then repeat the process mentioned above namely; (discharge to 25% and charge to 100% hold for 2 hours etc)

    This is process is enough to almost stabilize the battery.

    But remember, you'd not obtain a result of OEM standards, in any case. Apple standards are very stringent and such standards will be be there in other manufacturers. Meaning 7 hrs continuous use, when new.

    FYI the device I'm presently on, is MacBook Pro (15-inch, Late 2011) and I have not replaced the Battery as yet.

    I will not discharge more than 20%.

    Modifications: 126GB HHD replaced to 256GB SSD. 8GB RAM to 16GB. The system is faster than before.

    This machine is the best. Cheers.

    Sree Kumar - 답글

    Hi, I've just bought a new battery from Ifixit for my mid 2012 MacBook Pro. It works well. But my computer doesn't wake up anymore without the Magsafe charger. Then, I can use my laptop. How do I change this ? Thank you.

    seraphinlampion - 답글

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Miroslav Djuric

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안내서 144개 작성하였습니다

댓글 5개

It would be nice if you provided a Y1 tri wing bit with the replacement battery you sell.

geoffbowen - 답글

My battery had swelled, making the triblade screws extra tight. Other than that - silky smooth guide.

Andrew Kegel - 답글

Great guide. Battery came out smoothly and new battery installed without issue. However, the battery I purchased here only lasted 3 months. I completed all the recommended steps to reset SMC and NVRAM but the battery now only lasts 10 minutes off the charger. Thankfully I kept my original battery and placed it back in the MBP and I’m now attempting to return the battery despite being out of the 30 day return period.

kahlichj - 답글

Not sure why this is rated moderately difficult. It’s a pretty easy job.

santamaria - 답글

I successfully replaced the battery, calibrated it, and worked fine for 4 charge cycles…..after this the battery just went dead!

The reported “battery condition” in the system Report says: “Replace now”…(!!!??).

Battery indicator in the desktop screen reports 100% charged, but system report states battery fully charged but with amperage (mA): 0

I tried to reset the SMC as per Apple’s website instructions for this MacBook Pro (15” late 2011). It did not resolve the problem either.

Was this a defective battery?

Luis Gimenez - 답글

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