이 번역은 원본 안내서의 최신 업데이트를 반영하지 않을 수 있습니다. 번역 업데이트를 돕거나 아니면 원본 안내서 보기를 참조하세요.
소개
이 안내서를 사용하여 16” MacBook Pro의 접착된 배터리를 iFixit 접착제 제거제 교체 키트의 도움으로 안전하게 분리하세요. 접착제 제거제는 배터리를 고정하는 접착제를 녹여서 배터리를 수월하게 분리하도록 디자인되어 있습니다.
‘’’iFixit 접착제 제거제는 가연성이 매우 높습니다.’’’ 통풍이 잘되는 곳에서 이 절차를 따르세요. 담배를 피우거나 불 근처에서 작업하지 마세요.
손상 위험을 최소화하려면 이 절차를 시작하기 전에 MacBook을 켜고 배터리를 완전히 방전하세요. 충전된 리튬-이온 배터리에 실수로 구멍이 나면 위험하고 걷잡을 수 없는 화재를 일으킬 수 있습니다. 배터리가 부풀어 올라 보이면, 추가 예방 조치를 취하세요.
참고: 배터리 접착제를 녹이는데 사용하는 용액은 MacBook Pro 플라스틱 스피커 인클로저와 같은 특정 플라스틱을 손상할 수 있습니다. 모든 지침을 따르고 어디에 접착제 제거제를 발라야 하는지 주의하세요.
필요한 것
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Mac 전원을 켜고 Terminal/터미널을 시작하세요.
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다음 명령을 복사하여 Terminal/터미널에 붙여 넣으세요 (또는 정확히 입력하세요).
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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[return]을 누르세요. 관리자 암호 입력 메시지가 나타나면 관리자 암호를 입력하고 [return]을 다시 누르세요. 참고: return 키는 ⏎ 또는 "enter/입력"으로 표시되어 있을 수도 있습니다.
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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P5 Pentalobe/별나사 드라이버를 사용하여 하단 케이스를 고정하는, 다음 길이의, 나사 여섯 개를 풀어주세요:
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3.7mm 나사 네 개
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7.3mm 나사 두 개
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흡입 핸들을 나사 구멍 사이 하단 케이스 전면 가장자리 근처에 누르세요.
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하단 케이스 아래에 작은 틈을 만들 수 있을 정도만 흡입 핸들을 위로 당기세요.
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여는 픽의 한쪽 모서리를 하단 케이스 아랫면 방금 만든 틈으로 넣으세요.
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여는 픽을 가장 가까운 모서리를 따라서 돌아 밀며 MacBook Pro 측면 절반 정도까지 위로 미세요.
I recommend being careful while sliding as you can scratch the speaker. The actual clip is about halfway up the side, whereas the speaker is closer to the front (further from the hinge). So stay very shallow with just the tip of the pick until you get halfway up the side.
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여는 픽을 사용하여 두 번째 클립을 풀기 위해, 맞은편에 이전 단계를 반복하세요.
Same advice that I gave for the other side — be careful not to scratch the speaker which is close to the bottom. Keep the pick shallow until you get halfway up the side.
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하단 케이스를 MacBook 전면 가장자리를 향해 단단히 당겨 (힌지 부분에서 멀리) 하단 케이스를 고정하는 마지막 클립을 풀어주세요.
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한쪽 모서리를 먼저 당기고 나서 다른 모서리를 당기세요.
This was made a lot easier by using a lever in the hinge area in combination with pulling. The amount of force required was more than the grip I could get on the metal allowed for my macbook.
Thank you for this comment! 🙏
For me it was the same way, wasn't able to get enough grip to pull sufficiently - but gently levering near the hinge with a spudger to "push" the bottom panel away worked well!There is no pulling required. Use an opening pick or a spudger at the hinge area to gently and easily nudge the bottom panel off the clips. It should be effortless.
If you do pull on the bottom case be careful of where you place the hand supporting the Mac, otherwise you'll make a blood sacrifice to the Mac gods! I placed my other hand too close to the feet on the bottom case and while removing it, the sharp edge of the bottom case sliced into my thumb.
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하단 케이스를 분리하세요.
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디스플레이 힌지 근처 슬라이딩 클립을 제자리에 맞추고 정렬하세요. 커버를 아래로 누르고 힌지를 향해 미세요. 클립이 맞물리면 미끄러짐은 멈춰야 합니다.
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슬라이딩 클립이 완전히 맞물리고 하단 케이스가 올바르게 정렬된 것처럼 보이면, 하단 케이스를 단단히 눌러 아래에있는 숨어있는 클립 네 개를 맞물리세요. 그들이 제자리에 끼워지는 것이 느껴지며 소리가 들려야 합니다.
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배터리에 가장 가까운 로직 보드 가장자리의 배터리 보드를 덮고있는 절연 스티커를 떼어내서 분리하세요.
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커버가 쉽게 벗겨지지 않으면 iOpener, 헤어 드라이어 또는 열선총으로 약한 열을 가하여 아랫면의 접착제를 부드럽게하고 다시 시도하세요.
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배터리 보드 데이터 케이블 커넥터를 덮고 있는 모든 테이프를 벗기세요.
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배터리 보드 데이터 케이블 반대편의 커넥터 잠금 플랩을 들어 올리세요.
I’ve seen versions of this battery board that the cable goes around and to the back of the board, so this step is not always necesary.
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배터리 보드의 소켓에서 배터리 보드 데이터 케이블을 밀어서 완전히 분리하세요.
I’ve seen versions of this battery board that the cable goes around and to the back of the board, so this step is not always necesary.
Putting a mark on the cable will be helpful when reinstalling so you don't put it backwards or upside down.
maccentric - 답글
This isn't necessary for many repairs, such as the Screen Replacement. I just lift the cable out of the way enough to do the next few steps and leave it attached.
maccentric - 답글
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T3 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여 키보드와 트랙패드 케이블 커넥터의 커버 브래킷을 고정하는 1.8mm 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.
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브래킷을 분리하세요.
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T5 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여 트랙패드 어셈블리를 고정하는 나사 열세 개를 분리하세요:
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5.8mm 나사 아홉 개
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4.9mm 나사 네 개
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디스플레이를 약간 열어 젖혀야 하지만 MacBook은 뒤집어 놓으세요. 트랙패드 어셈블리는 분리되고 디스플레이에 평평하게 놓여야 합니다.
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트랙패드 리본 케이블을 섀시의 틈으로 조심히 넣으세요.
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T3 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여 디스플레이 보드 커넥터 커버를 고정하는 3.5mm 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.
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디스플레이 보드 플렉스 커버를 분리하세요.
If you're familiar with repairing, you do not need to do a complete tear down, you can skip from here to step 63 and just loosen (or you can remove) the Three 3.3 mm T3 Torx screws (red) and the T5 screw (Yellow)below the left fan and slightly lift the logic board enough to slide out the battery board cable from under the logic board.
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T3 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여 힌지 커버에서 2.0mm 나사 네 개를 풀어주세요 (양쪽에 나사 두 개씩).
Bonjour @amaury29177 Merci de remarque. Vous avez l'œil ! J'ai corrigé l'erreur. iFixit étant un wiki, je vous invite à faire la correction de votre côté s'il vous arrive de trouver une autre erreur :) Excellente journée et merci encore !
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T3 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여 Touch ID 및 헤드폰 잭 케이블 커넥터 용 디스플레이 보드 커버 브래킷을 고정하는 2.4mm 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.
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브래킷을 분리하세요.
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T3 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여 Touch Bar 디지타이저 및 덮개 각도 센서 커넥터 용 덮개 브래킷을 고정하는 1.5mm 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.
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T3 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여 Touch Bar 디스플레이 케이블 커넥터 브래킷을 고정하는 1.9mm 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.
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브래킷을 분리하세요.
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T3 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여:
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왼편 Thunderbolt 플렉스 케이블 커버를 고정하는 1.3mm 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.
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오른편 Thunderbolt 케이블 커버에서 1.3mm 나사 두 개를 더 풀어주세요.
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키보드 백라이트 ZIF 커넥터의 잠금 플랩을 로직 보드에서 똑바로 들어 올려 열어주세요.
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안테나 케이블 세 개를 모두 소켓에서 똑바로 들어 올려 분리하세요.
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핀셋이나 spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 각 케이블 아랫면에서 소켓 근처까지 밀어 넣은 다음 살살 비틀거나 들어 올려 분리하세요.
One tip to make logic board removal and replacement easier, is to carefully tape all the flexes back out of the way. This makes it a lot easier, trust me. Paul Daniels of FlexBV fame taught me this https://pldaniels.com/flexbv/ See photo of taped back flexes here https://i.imgur.com/eriX0KV.jpg
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로직 보드 어셈블리를 고정하는 나사 열 한 개를 모두 풀어주세요:
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3.3mm T3 Torx/톡스 나사 세 개
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3.6mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 두 개
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2.9mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 네 개
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4.0mm T8 Torx/톡스 나사 한 개
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4.0mm T8 Torx/톡스 나사 한 개 (큰 머리)
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두 개의 고무 진동 댐퍼 스트립을 팬에 부착하는 접착제를 벗기세요 (분리는 하지마세요).
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필요한 경우, iOpener, 헤어 드라이어, 또는 히트 건으로 약한 열을 가하여 접착제를 약하게 하고 댐퍼를 쉽게 분리할 수 있습니다.
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반대편 팬 또 다른 접착 스트립에도 반복하세요.
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로직 보드와 방열판 사이의 틈으로 안테나 케이블 번들을 넣고, 보드를 제위치에 내려놓을 때 올바르게 정렬되었는지 확인하세요.
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설치할 때 보드 밑에 케이블이 갇히지 않도록 하세요. 표시된 각 위치를 주의 깊게 확인하세요.
One tip to make logic board removal and replacement easier, is to carefully tape all the flexes back out of the way. This makes it a lot easier, trust me. Paul Daniels of FlexBV fame taught me this https://pldaniels.com/flexbv/ See photo of taped back flexes here https://i.imgur.com/eriX0KV.jpg
So easy to refit the logic board with all the flexes taped back out of the way. The only way to go IMO https://i.imgur.com/1fiRGhe.jpg
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배터리 밑바닥에 접착제가 사전-설치된 경우, 뒤집어서 조심히 라이너를 벗겨 접착제를 드러내세요. 배터리가 접착제를 포함하지 않은 경우, Tesa 61395와 같은 얇은 양면 접착 테이프를 사용하여 배터리를 제자리에 고정하세요.
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배터리를 조심히 배치하고 제자리에 맞추세요.
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각 셀을 5-10초 동안 길게 눌러 하단 케이스에 고정하세요.
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기기를 재조립하려면, 위의 단계들을 역순으로 따르세요.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 센터로 가져가세요.
수리가 계획대로 진행되지 않았습니까? 자사의
답변 커뮤니티에서 문제 해결 도움을 검색하세요.
기기를 재조립하려면, 위의 단계들을 역순으로 따르세요.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 센터로 가져가세요.
수리가 계획대로 진행되지 않았습니까? 자사의
답변 커뮤니티에서 문제 해결 도움을 검색하세요.
다른 45명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
다음 번역가들에게 특별히 감사 드립니다:
89%
Christian Kim님은 저희가 세상을 수리하는데 동참하신 분입니다! 기여하시겠습니까?
번역 시작하기 ›
댓글 29개
Amazing. This is truly thorough, and as soon as this battery starts to fail, will come back here. Nice work documenting a whole assembly line.
If I want to replace my fans, it looks like I can follow this guide to step 66 and then just figure it out from there? Is there a guide somewhere on this? Thanks!
You can do as you wrote for replacing only the fan. Ther’s nothing more to know about it.
I see that the MacBook Pro 13 logic board remains in place in iFixit battery replacement guide. Is there any reason why in the MacBook Pro 16 the logic board cannot remain in place while removing and reinstalling the battery?
Yes, there are two battery cables running under the logic board, clearly visible at step 68. No way to put the battery back with the logic board in place.
I recently did the 15” 2017 Macbook Pro battery replacement and that seemed more difficult than this one due to the speaker connectors. In my opinion, this 16” replacement can be marked as Moderate.
Because the battery connector is underneath the logic board here.
Peter H -
Great guide! Wow! Definitely not for the faint of heart! Thanks Carsten!
This is definitely a difficulty repair. I caused some damage to the speaker, likely while trying to get the battery out. (Luckily, that will be a very simple repair)
I definitely recommend double checking that you have all right screwdrivers, scrapers/spudgers, adhesive dissolvers, screw locker and a tray with lots of compartments to keep everything organized. I have done multiple complex repairs of mac laptops in the past including screen replacements, logic board replaceements and other battery replacements and this was the most difficult. I am very glad future generations included pull tabs for the adhesive.
Thanks for the guide!
FWIW I skipped about half the steps, and used spudgers to angle the motherboard up, in order to remove the battery. I'll list the steps I followed below:
1-21
27-29
35-36
41-49
53-54
61
63
68
I use 99% isopropyl alcohol, and an ifixit plastic card to cut through the battery adhesive. TBH that was the most time-consuming part, because I like to let the alcohol melt the adhesive a bit before cutting, in order to minimize the amount of pressure I have to apply.
The reason I skipped a lot of steps is to minimize risk, and also to save time. Thankfully the battery ribbons were easy to slide underneath the board, once the board was angled up a bit.
What a nightmare... There's no way this wasn't done in purpose.
2 years in and the battery's already dead. That's insane.
This took longer than expected due to the logic board removal, but wasn’t too difficult and everything went to plan.
Note that you need to be REALLY careful with the ZIF connector latches like on the battery board and logic board, they are very fragile and I had to re-attach the latch for one of them.
OMG!! I did not know that the process to change out the battery on the 2019 MBP was so intense. My old 2009 MBP was "cake walk" compared to this. Thanks for the HOW TO
For Step 16:
What does "damage" mean in this case? I have one of these that I was attempting to clean, so I lifted the battery power connector up, but I can't swear it didn't make contact. When I was trying to lay it down flat I thought it would stay flat until I put the screw in, but it popped back up a short way. I then held it down & put the screw it - now my MBP isn't powering on. Did this damage the logic board?
Nevermind my prior; took it to a local shop & they said it has liquid damage on logic board. Sending back to seller.
Woo hoo! Just finished. I don’t know who could do this battery repair on the quicker side of that range—mine took over 5 hours. Granted, I also redid the thermal paste on my CPU and my GPU. In addition, the old battery was really stuck in there, so that took extra time. Nonetheless, now I have more experience and, no need to buy a new computer ! Thanks, iFixIt !
Carsten did an excellent job in providing the correct information to do the job. But let us ALL NOT FORGET, this convoluted way of replacing a battery (something that would be considered a common and ordinary everyday routine need) is Apple's good faith attempt at preventing the everyday consumer from replacing their own battery in their own device. Take for example myself when it takes 80+ steps to change a battery, and provided I were wealthy, I'd have someone replace the battery for me. Not everyone is wealthy or similarly situated. Make sure you don't forget to encourage your elected officials in the U.S. Congress to vote to allow us Americans our right to repair our devices ourselves without long, drawn out, encumbering, and convoluted ways of doing it. Can you imagine how blinded in the night we would be if we had to go through all this just to change the batteries in our flashlights? We're no longer in the dark ages. I for one, am not prepared to go back even if Apple likes it or not.
Is there a way to replace the battery without removing everything? I can just slide the big battery out of my Dell Latitude E6500 and pop another one in. However, can I replace the battery in my 2019 MBP 16" without having to remove everything?
The repair guide is awesome. Unfortunately, replacing the battery didn't bring the machine back to life. Sadness!
But the repair guide was great. I felt very confident throughout.
Same with me. Did you figure out what was wrong with your machine? Replacing the battery was my best guess at what was wrong with my machine and now I'm stuck. Hopefully you had some luck diagnosing your issue?
Josef A -
Excellent guide
If I replace the battery, why coconut tool said that the manufacture date is 2013-03-18, is that normal?
So I just completed the whole sequence and everything went fine, really really well done Carsten! Only thing that went wrong is minor but still annoying: it seems I broke the left keyboard backlight cable. What to do in such a case?
Little extra onfo: I can't seem to find that part anywhere, and I can see the ribbon is slightly ripped in its angle, which must have happened when I put the logic board back in place. I can live without it, but it is strange having a keyboard lit only on one side... so any hint will be appreciated.
Yann,
Thank you for the kind words! Unfortunately, the keyboard, keyboard backlight, and their cables are integral to the laptop's upper case.
So thankful for this guide. Was able to resurrect an old unit that was collecting dust. Knew issue had to be the battery. Yes, a lot of steps; though, followed closely, you will succeed!!
3hours, with precaution and coffee time. All step are not so complicate. The unique attention is for the batterie removal. And cleaning step. So thanks for this tutorial.
Really thank you Carsten for this majestic guide, but shame on Apple for doing this job. I spent like 8 hours for doing everything (I know, I'm quite slow) and I even punctured the old battery while using the plastic card. I was a nightmare.
Hopefully, we will have easy-to-replace batteries by 2027 thanks to the European Union.
Special thanks to the Italian translators too, Grazie!
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
Macrepair SF - 답글
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - 답글
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - 답글
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - 답글
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - 답글
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - 답글
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - 답글
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - 답글
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - 답글
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - 답글
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - 답글
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'to display the current state, the default istrue- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=falsewhich turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - 답글
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - 답글
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - 답글
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - 답글
I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?
peter sussex -
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - 답글
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - 답글
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - 답글
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - 답글
Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?
maël muzelet - 답글
Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"
Claire Miesch -
Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.
Tom Markham - 답글
If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.
arichard2401 - 답글
For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.
Nicholas R Licato - 답글
Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).
Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.
Cédric Bontems - 답글
After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.
Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.
No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.
Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.
webrockers - 답글
I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.
I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.
webrockers -