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Follow this guide to replace a faulty motherboard in the Nintendo Switch game console.

Note: This procedure requires removing the shield plate and heat sink. The thermal paste will need to be cleaned off of both components—as well as the CPU—and reapplied before reinstalling the shield plate and heat sink.

  1. Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off. Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller. While you hold down the button, slide  the controller upward.
    • Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.

    • Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.

    • While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

  2. Continue sliding the controller upward until it's completely removed from the console. Repeat this same process for the other controller. Repeat this same process for the other controller.
    • Continue sliding the controller upward until it's completely removed from the console.

    • Repeat this same process for the other controller.

    • Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

  3. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel: One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:

    • One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device

    • Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device

  4. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side). Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

    I tried my JIS 000 on Step 5 and was unable to get the screw to budge. It’s partner from the other side came right out with no trouble. Don’t really want to narf up the screw, so I bailed out. Anyone else have this issue?

    mrhoyt - 답글

    Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!

    Craig Lloyd -

    I did finally get it out- one thing I noticed was some of the screws have blue Loctite on the threads. I guess they figure it’ll get tossed around. This underscores the importance of having the correct tools and making double darn sure you are using the correct size, etc.

    mrhoyt - 답글

  5. Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device. If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.
    • Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.

    • If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

  6. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.

  7. Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it. Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it. Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.
    • Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

    How to remove micro SD port?

    Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.

    Christopher Hernandez - 답글

  8. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.

  9. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it. During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it.

    • During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard

    Yes. The reverse is not so simple- you can’t see what you’re doing when you attempt to reconnect and it only takes one small error to completely bend the contacts on the connector. Very delicate.

    if you very gently remove the foam pad sticker, you can at least see better how it lines up and can feel your way to a degree… then you can stick the pad back in. The pad seems pretty critical in keeping things in place once reassembled.

    holmzee - 답글

    Definitely agree about not sticking the foam pad back on until the new SD card slot is connected. Saved a lot of headache. Great walkthrough and easy repair!

    Jonathan Stachewicz -

    Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.

    Bill Little - 답글

    Alors je suis en détresse total . Jai cassé les bouches en or sur le connecteur qui est soudé sur la carte mère.. comment changer cette toute petite pièces, oû la trouver . Cela fais 1 mois que je cherche partout. Sans remplacer la carte mère. Merci pour vos réponses

    Mike Snow - 답글

    I found it easier to connect it without the black foam pad so I could see and than add the foam pad over it. It was super easy and I an I 33 Mom doing this for my son. Was well worth the money for the kit saved us almost 100 bucks

    Katherine Harrison - 답글

    Had my son follow this guide to fix his own switch where the ad card reader didn't work. And he did. Great instructions!!!! Thanks a million!

    William Scott - 답글

    The only difficult part of following this guide is connecting the new sd card reader into the poorly designed motherboard connector. Its quite possible the sd card reader that came in the console wasnt broken at all.

    The repair kit works just as advertised and even comes with stickers.

    Matthias_ Links - 답글

    I’m still getting error 2002-2054 even after replacing memory card reader module. Thanks, Nintendo!

    Wes Stephenson - 답글

    My switch won’t read my microSD card after I reassembled it (error 2016-0641) please help!

    Nate Topical - 답글

    Tip: Keep the old SD reader piece loosely attached while you line up and gently press the new SD component into the connector on the motherboard. Once the new piece is snug, then carefully remove the old piece keeping the sticky foam in place.

    I am a middle-aged mom with absolutely no special tech skills and I easily followed the directions and successfully fixed the broken SD drive. ifixit is the best!

    Wende David - 답글

  10. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

  11. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.

    My Switch (bought about two weeks after launch) seems to be missing this foam piece… Was it added later, similar to the foam piece in the left joy-con (to improve connectivity)?

    firetech - 답글

    It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.

    Craig Lloyd -

  12. Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device. Pry up to lift the shield plate up. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
    • Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.

    • Pry up to lift the shield plate up.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

    • Remove the shield plate.

    • Clean off the old thermal paste from the shield plate and heat sink using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the heat sink before reassembly.

    How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?

    Youji Hong - 답글

    Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..

    MacTek -

    When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

    Diego Soto - 답글

    I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound

    Adam Stillman - 답글

    No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.

    MacTek -

    Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.

    Shawn Christensen -

  13. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

  14. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

  15. Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that's lightly adhered to the fan. The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that's lightly adhered to the fan.

    • The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

  16. Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste. Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.
    • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

    • Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

    What's on the heatsink?

    Raven.K - 답글

    Directions for this step say you can use Artic Silver ArctiClean but when adding to iFixit cart it says “This won’t work with your device (Nintendo Switch).

    Dan S. - 답글

    where do i get more of that black fabric like tape that is on the heat sink?

    Regal Pikachu - 답글

  17. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.

  18. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable out of its connector on the game card reader board. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable out of its connector on the game card reader board.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable out of its connector on the game card reader board.

    The reverse of this is a little tricky - it may be helpful to post some more detail about getting the ribbon all the way back in and ensuring the clasp goes down to troubleshoot some of the touchscreen comments below.

    Nick Wagner - 답글

  19. Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard.

  20. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the three 3.1 mm screws securing the headphone jack and game card reader board to the device.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the three 3.1 mm screws securing the headphone jack and game card reader board to the device.

  21. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack bracket. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack bracket.
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack bracket.

  22. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board.
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board.

  23. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

  24. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

  25. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector.

  26. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

  27. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the power and volume button ribbon cable ZIF connector. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the power and volume button ribbon cable ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the power and volume button ribbon cable ZIF connector.

  28. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

  29. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

  30. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

  31. Use the point of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail's data cable ZIF connector. Use the point of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail's data cable ZIF connector.
    • Use the point of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail's data cable ZIF connector.

  32. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

  33. Use the point of a spudger to pry up the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry up the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.

  34. Use the point of a spudger to pry up the white antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry up the white antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up the white antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.

  35. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the right speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard. Do not pull on the connector by the speaker wires. They're very thin and can easily snap off the connector.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the right speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard.

    • Do not pull on the connector by the speaker wires. They're very thin and can easily snap off the connector.

  36. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the left speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard. Do not pull on the connector by the speaker wires. They're very thin and can easily snap off the connector.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the left speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard.

    • Do not pull on the connector by the speaker wires. They're very thin and can easily snap off the connector.

  37. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail data cable ZIF connector. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail data cable ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail data cable ZIF connector.

  38. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the Joy Con rail data cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the Joy Con rail data cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the Joy Con rail data cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

  39. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the following screws:
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the following screws:

    • Four 2.5 mm screws

    • Two 3.1 mm screws

  40. Insert a spudger into a gap between the motherboard and the frame. Carefully lift up the motherboard and remove it from the frame. Carefully lift up the motherboard and remove it from the frame.
    • Insert a spudger into a gap between the motherboard and the frame.

    • Carefully lift up the motherboard and remove it from the frame.

결론

Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Answers community for help.

다른 34명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.

Craig Lloyd

회원 가입일: 2016년 02월 10일

15,431 평판

안내서 80개 작성하였습니다

iFixit iFixit 회원

Community

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Great guide! Thank you. Just one problem: Where the !&&* can I buy a replacement?

Rob - 답글

You can buy one on the ifixit parts store or you can find a used one on eBay.

HeyJacksonY -

What’s the name of the grey compound you insert on the cooper section on the motherboard? I’ve been wondering what that stuff is.

Steven Peck - 답글

That is thermal compound or commonly known as thermal paste. It improves performance of parts by bridging the gaps between the CPU and heat pipes.

HeyJacksonY -

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