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Use this guide to replace the joystick control modules on your Nintendo Switch Controller. To complete this project, you must be able to solder. Care should be taken in the removal of the plastic body pieces and the internal circuit board of the device to avoid damage that could render the device inoperable. This project also involves the removal of a lithium-ion battery, and if swollen, be sure to take appropriate precautions.

  1. Flip the controller over so the model stickers face the ceiling.
    • Flip the controller over so the model stickers face the ceiling.

  2. Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the two black flathead 7 mm screws that secure the handles, located at the ends of the handles. Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the two black flathead 7 mm screws that secure the handles, located at the ends of the handles.
    • Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the two black flathead 7 mm screws that secure the handles, located at the ends of the handles.

    circle both screw locations - just for clarity

    Tasha Lee - 답글

    These screws were very tight on my controller. I stripped out the head of one of them despite using plenty of pressure. I was able to push down very hard as I turned to get the screw head out far enough that I could complete the unscrewing with a small pliers.

    nclee - 답글

  3. Carefully remove the handle covers by pulling them away from the main body. Carefully remove the handle covers by pulling them away from the main body.
    • Carefully remove the handle covers by pulling them away from the main body.

  4. Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the four silver 5 mm screws that secure the clear back plastic cover. Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the four silver 5 mm screws that secure the clear back plastic cover.
    • Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the four silver 5 mm screws that secure the clear back plastic cover.

  5. Carefully pry away the clear plastic cover  using your fingernail. Carefully pry away the clear plastic cover  using your fingernail.
    • Carefully pry away the clear plastic cover using your fingernail.

  6. Remove the lithium-ion battery by using a fingernail or plastic opening tool to pry it up on the left side. Only a small amount of force is needed. Only a small amount of force is needed.
    • Remove the lithium-ion battery by using a fingernail or plastic opening tool to pry it up on the left side.

    • Only a small amount of force is needed.

  7. Remove the five 5mm roundhead screws with the Phillips #00 screwdriver. Remove the five 5mm roundhead screws with the Phillips #00 screwdriver.
    • Remove the five 5mm roundhead screws with the Phillips #00 screwdriver.

    The ifixit screwdriver I have doesn’t quite reach the top right screw above the battery, so I had to go in at an angle

    Zachary Teeples - 답글

  8. Carefully pry the front plate off of the body using a plastic opening tool. Separate the plastic covers by pulling it apart from the controller body.
    • Carefully pry the front plate off of the body using a plastic opening tool.

    • Separate the plastic covers by pulling it apart from the controller body.

    • Avoid using excessive force when pulling the cover off to prevent damage to the white ribbon cable.

    Perhaps mention that you could use an opening tool instead of your fingernail (like you did in Step 6 above).

    Tasha Lee - 답글

  9. Use an iFixit opening tool to flip up the locking tab on the ZIF connector. Carefully remove the ribbon cable from the connector. Only a small amount of force should be needed to remove the ribbon cable.
    • Use an iFixit opening tool to flip up the locking tab on the ZIF connector.

    • Carefully remove the ribbon cable from the connector.

    • Only a small amount of force should be needed to remove the ribbon cable.

    Give a more in-depth explanation of how the ribbon-cable connector words; It was difficult to figure out at first.

    Tasha Lee - 답글

    Lift the black thing up

    Zachary Teeples -

  10. With light force pull the two joystick caps off of the controller. This step is not essential but will reduce clutter for the following steps.
    • With light force pull the two joystick caps off of the controller.

    • This step is not essential but will reduce clutter for the following steps.

  11. Remove the 5mm roundhead  screw with a Phillips #00 screwdriver. Use your fingernail to pry the LED light away from its slot. Set aside the LED light with its corresponding screw for reassembly.
    • Remove the 5mm roundhead screw with a Phillips #00 screwdriver.

    • Use your fingernail to pry the LED light away from its slot.

    • Set aside the LED light with its corresponding screw for reassembly.

  12. Remove the  three black 5mm roundhead screws with the Phillips #00 screwdriver. Loosen the circuit board off the chassis by gently pulling at the bottom right corner. Lift the circuit board up to expose  its backside.
    • Remove the three black 5mm roundhead screws with the Phillips #00 screwdriver.

    • Loosen the circuit board off the chassis by gently pulling at the bottom right corner.

    • Lift the circuit board up to expose its backside.

    • Avoid using too much force when lifting the circuit board to prevent damaging the wires.

  13. Turn to the backside of the circuit board for clear access to the solder joints. Desolder all of the outlined solder joints.
    • Turn to the backside of the circuit board for clear access to the solder joints.

    • Desolder all of the outlined solder joints.

    • Remove the joystick module from the circuit board.

    • Refer to the following solder guide if necessary: How To Solder and Desolder Connections

    Bonjour,pour dessouder les joysticks, qu’avez-vous utilisez comme outil: de la tresse ou une pompe à dessouder ?

    Par avance merci.

    Patrick

    le hellegouarch - 답글

    J’ai utilisé une pompe, avec de bons résultats

    Brian - 답글

결론

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

다른 13명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.

Daniel Tagalog

회원 가입일: 2019년 10월 10일

883 평판

안내서 3개 작성하였습니다

Cal Poly, Team S11-G2, Regan Fall 2019 Cal Poly, Team S11-G2, Regan Fall 2019 회원

CPSU-REGAN-F19S11G2

5 회원들

안내서 21개 작성하였습니다

I managed to replace mine with much difficulty with the soldering but the stick does not seem to turn fully anymore, both with the replacement and the original. For reference, when I go to test it, it no longer registers as reaching the outer circle when pressed all the way down. Similarly when I go to calibrate it, it only reaches up til about the 2nd outer circle, not enough to actually trigger the green arrow. Since this seems to occur on both the replacement and original stick now, I’m guessing this must be some issue that arose while I was struggling with the desoldering process. Anybody have any ideas what might be causing my issue? Have I just damaged it beyond repair?

Tyler - 답글

Without pictures it is impossible to tell, but there is the possibility that you strips the metal connection on the solder point. This is fixable by “bridging” the connection. You will want to find schematics of the wiring for the PCB and then solder the wire over to the next connection.

As a side note, I should mention that I have never tried this on a controller of any sort and that I have only used this method on keyboards with single wire connections. It is possible that the connection in a controller PCB have more going on and that this technique will not work.

Gavin A -

I have the same problem, I buy 2 joystick module from iFixit and the two gave me the same issue, the joystick module don't reach the green arrow.

I can't calibrate because of that issue.

Any ideas?

Piero Grasso -

I have also had the same issue with replacement, only reaches roughly 75%. I contacted ifixit and they sent me a replacement thinking it might be a faulty pot, I installed the new stick and have the same issue. Maybe different years used different resistance.

marcos aguilera -

Excellent guide. Thank you. Saved me from having to buy a $70 controller.

One comment though, all the screws are actually Phillips #0 except for the grip screws, which are Phillips #00

Brian - 답글

I managed to repair a drifting stick input without any soldering by just replacing the potentiometer in the stick module. You can pry open the housing on the sides, swap it out (make sure it’s the right orientation), and snap it back into place. Potentiometers for Dualshock 4 analog sticks worked for me—apparently these parts are industry standard. Doing this from now on for all my drifty sticks.

Scott Baker - 답글

Hi Scott —

.

So, first off, thanks for the tip! Now, I realize I may be asking a bit much of you here, but, is there any chance you could post/take/fwd any pics of the (sub)procedure you describe? It’d be really helpful to have a reference like that before I tear into a functioning joystick — even if it has a sporadic (though no less infuriating for that) issue.

.

If that’s not feasible, then perhaps you know of and can post a link to a decent guide for doing so on any of the platforms that use these (apparently standard) items?

.

Thanks in advance for any help on this! :oD

anatinus -

Do you know how to correctly reassemble the grey piece in the picture?

First thought was something had snapped but after popping off the same piece from the other (working) thumbstick they seem to be identical and neither the part nor the socket seems damaged. I also can’t see any evidence of glue.

The problem is I can’t get the part to clip back into place - it is supposed to sit flush and taught without any movement when the stick is rotated. But no matter how I reapply it I can’t clip it into place.

https://i.imgur.com/mFOQEUy.jpg

Casey - 답글

After doing this. I lost charging capabilities and the capability to even plug it into a PC. Any advice will be beneficial.

Jose Godoi - 답글

I think the grip screws are JIS #00 which would make sense since this is made in Japan.

jorach - 답글

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