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  1. Released alongside the Wii on November 19, 2006, the Wii Classic Controller is a great alternative to the Wii Remote for Virtual Console games, however, it has some compatibility with regular Wii games, like Mario Kart Wii. It features 2 analog sticks, a digital d-pad, 7 digital face buttons, 2 digital shoulder buttons, and 2 analog shoulder buttons. The controller connects through the extension plug in the Wii Remote, just like a Nunchuk. The model number is "RVL-005." "RVL", found on all official Wii products, references the Wii's development codename "Revolution."
    • Released alongside the Wii on November 19, 2006, the Wii Classic Controller is a great alternative to the Wii Remote for Virtual Console games, however, it has some compatibility with regular Wii games, like Mario Kart Wii.

    • It features 2 analog sticks, a digital d-pad, 7 digital face buttons, 2 digital shoulder buttons, and 2 analog shoulder buttons. The controller connects through the extension plug in the Wii Remote, just like a Nunchuk.

    • The model number is "RVL-005." "RVL", found on all official Wii products, references the Wii's development codename "Revolution."

    • I found this Classic Controller at a thrift store for a few dollars, which is a pretty good deal, however it is kind of dirty, so I'm going to disassemble it in order to clean it.

  2. First things first: remove the 5 triwing screws on the back. Ensure you have a proper triwing screwdriver, as a Phillips or flathead screwdriver will strip the screw pretty easily. First things first: remove the 5 triwing screws on the back. Ensure you have a proper triwing screwdriver, as a Phillips or flathead screwdriver will strip the screw pretty easily.
    • First things first: remove the 5 triwing screws on the back. Ensure you have a proper triwing screwdriver, as a Phillips or flathead screwdriver will strip the screw pretty easily.

  3. Upon removal of triwing screws, the rear panel assembly should lift right off. Upon removal of triwing screws, the rear panel assembly should lift right off. Upon removal of triwing screws, the rear panel assembly should lift right off.
    • Upon removal of triwing screws, the rear panel assembly should lift right off.

  4. We now focus our attention on the ZL and ZR shoulder buttons inside the rear panel assembly. Push the tab for each on sticking straight up towards the top of the rear case and thr button should fall out. And now for the bigger, plain ol' L and R shoulder buttons. Remove the two silver screws holding the shoulder button assemblies to the rear panel.
    • We now focus our attention on the ZL and ZR shoulder buttons inside the rear panel assembly.

    • Push the tab for each on sticking straight up towards the top of the rear case and thr button should fall out.

    • And now for the bigger, plain ol' L and R shoulder buttons. Remove the two silver screws holding the shoulder button assemblies to the rear panel.

    • Push down on the each button, then pull the black part of it towards you to free them from the rear panel.

  5. Remove the two black Phillips head screws pictured. Lift the piece up and out of the rear panel. Lift the piece up and out of the rear panel.
    • Remove the two black Phillips head screws pictured.

    • Lift the piece up and out of the rear panel.

  6. Set the rear panel aside and turn your attention to the other half of the Classic Controller with the logic board, analog sticks, and buttons.
    • Set the rear panel aside and turn your attention to the other half of the Classic Controller with the logic board, analog sticks, and buttons.

    • To start, remove two more black Phillips head screws holding the two Z shoulder button assemblies to the board.

  7. Next, reroute the cord on the bottom. Be careful not to pull the cord too hard or it could be separated from the board, requiring soldering to get back on. That said, the cord required more force to reroute than it looked, so just take it slow. Be careful not to pull the cord too hard or it could be separated from the board, requiring soldering to get back on. That said, the cord required more force to reroute than it looked, so just take it slow.
    • Next, reroute the cord on the bottom.

    • Be careful not to pull the cord too hard or it could be separated from the board, requiring soldering to get back on. That said, the cord required more force to reroute than it looked, so just take it slow.

  8. Now it's time to remove the logic board. Just pull it straight out; a good place to grip is where the ZL button lies on the board. Be careful with the logic board and only place it on an anti-staic mat or bag, like I have in the picture. It's probably fine to just lay it on the table, but it's better to lay it on something anti-static if you have it.
    • Now it's time to remove the logic board. Just pull it straight out; a good place to grip is where the ZL button lies on the board.

    • Be careful with the logic board and only place it on an anti-staic mat or bag, like I have in the picture. It's probably fine to just lay it on the table, but it's better to lay it on something anti-static if you have it.

  9. The analog stick covers just pull straight off from the stick on the logic board.
    • The analog stick covers just pull straight off from the stick on the logic board.

결론

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Talon Overstreet

회원 가입일: 2015년 05월 12일

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