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소개
La batterie ne tient plus la charge comme avant ? À l'aide de ce tutoriel vous pouvez remplacer la batterie de votre iPhone 5c. Si votre batterie est gonflée, prenez les précautions appropriées.
Utilisez ce tutoriel pour retirer la vitre tactile et vous éviter d'endommager les nappes de l'écran. Si vous vous sentez assez à l'aise pour tenir soigneusement l'écran pendant que vous sortez la batterie de l'iPhone, passez les étapes décrivant le démontage de l'écran et allez directement à celles concernant le retrait de la batterie.
Pour obtenir des performances optimales après avoir complété le guide, calibrez votre batterie nouvellement installée: Chargez-la à 100% et laissez-la charger pendant deux heures supplémentaires. Puis utilisez le téléphone jusqu'à ce qu'il s'éteigne à cause de la batterie faible. Rechargez-le ensuite sans interruption jusqu'à 100%.
필요한 것
동영상 개요
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Si la vitre de votre écran est fissurée, utilisez un adhésif pour éviter de l'endommager davantage ou de vous blesser lors de la réparation.
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Appliquez des bandes d'un ruban adhésif transparent se chevauchant sur l'écran de votre iPhone jusqu'à ce qu'il soit entièrement recouvert.
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Éteignez votre téléphone avant de commencer le démontage.
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Retirez les deux vis Pentalobe 3,8 mm des deux côtés du connecteur de charge Lightning.
I found that these screws did not remove easily. After turning several times and feeling the threads drop back, indicating they were loose, the heads did not extend far enough to grip with my fingernails to pull out. I had to use the tweezers and then it took a bit more force than expected to remove them.
Jim Thomas - 답글
My iPhone 5c has P1 Pentalobe screws, not P2. This guide caused me to buy wrong tools so I thought I would share my experience. Perhaps they vary.
@codycraven01 These guides are created using iFixit tools, and P2 is definitely the correct driver. If you’re using tools you bought somewhere else, then yes, results may vary.
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Serrez les poignées de l'iSclack et séparez ainsi les deux mâchoires avec les ventouses.
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Posez la partie inférieure de votre iPhone entre les deux ventouses contre la jauge de profondeur en plastique.
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Positionnez la ventouse supérieure juste au dessus du bouton home.
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Ouvrez les poignées pour fermer les mâchoires de l'iSclack. Centrez les ventouses et posez-les fermement sur le dessus et le dessous le l'iPhone.
I just replaced my iPhone 5C battery today and only used the I fix it repair kit that came with the suction cup. Getting the glass screen out was not too difficult as I used a little bit of upward motion on the suction cup while at the same time prying gently with the flat end of the opening tool at the same time. If you have two people it makes it a little easier as someone can hold the phone. After getting the end open, I was able to go around the perimeter and gently pry up the edges with very little trouble.
Experienced immediate problem: there is s strap going from the home button to the screen, about 1-1/2 inch long. After removing 3-4 screws I saw no way to disconnect it from either end. My daughter came to help get the screws back (my 70 years have problems with very tiny screws). Slid a piece back and the strap came free of the home button ares. Screen could only open then 75-80 degrees. Tapr tore. Pried battery out. Replaced on original sticky tape. Restarted fine and about to recycle the charge. Thanks for the kit and all. But 6 demos and 3 inatructions never mentioned this strip! So careful opening it up, please!!
@mikamazn What you’re describing sounds like an iPhone 5s. This guide is for the 5c. Glad to hear things worked out for you.
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Tenez bien votre iPhone et serrez les poignées de l'iSclack pour séparer les ventouses et enlever la vitre du boîtier arrière.
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L'iSclack est conçu pour ouvrir suffisamment votre iPhone en toute sécurité, sans risquer d'endommager les nappes de l'écran.
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Sautez les trois prochaines étapes et continuez à l'étape 8.
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Posez une ventouse sur la vitre, juste au-dessus du bouton home.
cool i diden't now
very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.
bromanmoon - 답글
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Tout en tenant l'iPhone avec une main, tirez sur la ventouse pour séparer légèrement l'écran du boîtier arrière.
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A l'aide d'un outil en plastique, commencez à pousser le boîtier délicatement vers le bas tout en tirant sur la ventouse vers le haut.
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Soulevez la partie de l'écran avec le bouton home pour pouvoir accéder aux connecteurs près de la partie supérieure de l'iPhone.
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Ouvrez l'écran à un angle de 90° par rapport au boîtier et calez-le contre un support pendant que vous travaillez.
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A la rigueur, une canette fermée peut vous dépanner.
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Rajoutez un élastique pour bien maintenir l'écran lorsque vous travaillez. Ceci évite de forcer inutilement sur les nappes.
I use an old iPhone box to support the open phone. Set the box up on its end, and rubber band the screen side to the box. It works perfectly!
What do I do if it’s a little sticky and dirty inside?
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Retirez les deux vis cruciformes #000 de 1,6 mm qui attachent le cache métallique du connecteur de la batterie à la carte mère.
These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!
I found that you don't need to disconnect the battery... why bother doing more fiddling with annoyingly tiny screws and obstinate cable connectors when you don't actually have to? Especially when you could only end up causing more damage. As a matter of fact, the original iFixit video didn't bother to disconnect the battery either, but they've since updated the video to include battery disconnection, I guess as a "belt and braces" approach in case the repair-hero forgets to power down the phone first?
Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution, and yes it's worth doing. Even with the phone powered off, there is some danger of blowing the backlight filter fuse if you disconnect the display while the battery is connected. At that point you're no longer looking at a simple DIY repair. Even though it's possible to skip this step and still come out okay, my advice is not to risk it.
It’s a relatively junky phone, so if it breaks, what the heck. I’m not going to disconnect the battery.
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A l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), faites levier pour enlever le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère.
Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.
Jona Wolff - 답글
Accidentally pulling out the logic board socket is no idle warning - exactly what I did without much effort. I think this shouldn’t be described as ‘prying’ up because it implies needing to use force - but these things actually pop off quite easily with a nudge, which you discover at later steps.
Peter Hill - 답글
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Retirez les vis cruciformes #000 suivantes qui attachent le cache de la nappe d'écran à la carte mère :
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Deux vis de 1,3 mm
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Une vis de 1,7 mm
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Une vis de 3,25 mm
I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.
I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.
I always take a picture of the phone, print it out, then use scotch tape to tape the screws onto the picture in the location where they go. You don't lose the screws and you always know where they go for re-assembly
good tip! but instead of taking & printing a picture of your own phone, you probably could just print the color coded pic from this step (assuming everything on your phone is exactly the same).
When reassembling, the screw holder that the screws screw into came off the board. Is there a way to superglue that back in?
no, do not use super-glue. Quite some of these ‘screw-holders’ are screws themselves with e hollow tread in the head (didn’t find the correct naming for it) - just like the things you screw into a PC case and fasten the mainboard on.
did NOT remove the front entirely. its not necessary to do this to remove the battery. these are only precautionary steps in case your clumsy or you feel you might not be able to manage it without. as always, be cautious.
Agree. Step 12 is unnecessary if one is extremely careful.
*warning* … this connector assembly is very messy to re-build. Next time I change such a battery, I’ll try to get it out carefully *without* detaching the display unit. My resumée: *never* unscrew more things than necessary. These things are not M five (5 mm bolt diameter) like on a bike, these are M zero-point-five. Even for a smirf, this is tiny stuff.
Hi Ali,
You can choose to not remove those screws and still be able to take the battery out. Be very careful supporting the display, or you may tear the display cables and damage your screen.
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A l'aide d'un outil en plastique ou de votre ongle, déconnectez le connecteur de la nappe de la caméra avant et du capteur.
You might get a more “modernised” part from eBay (for this very model, iPhone 5c) which has an ENTIRE CABLE missing… if you look closely, it’s been re-directed into the middle cable. And it all works perfectly, touch screen, and display. So it’s a optimisation.
In summary - if you get this version of the screen, you only need to deal with 2 cables, not 3. The rightmost socket will remain empty.
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Assurez-vous que la batterie est déconnectée avant de déconnecter ou reconnecter les nappes de cette étape.
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À l'aide d'un outil en plastique ou d'un ongle, déconnectez le connecteur de la nappe de l'écran LCD.
I replaced the broken front panel of the iPhone 5c and got the "famous white stripes" on the new screen. Reading about all kind of problems that the lcd/digitizer cable contacts may cause, I compared the cable connectors of the original Apple and the replacement part I bought online with a 35x magnifying glass. The quality difference was visible: The white description on the original part on the cable next to the connector is: 821-1784-A, while the inferior replacement part is: 821-1784-02. Check out the two numbers online and insist getting the "A" to avoid future troubles !!!
This person above is not knowledgeable. That number is a camera proxy part number, not the lcd or digitizer number. It changes with production date, both for original and aftermarket ones. A, B, D, 02, 04, 08 etc. Can all be either or.
vince -
Apple uses numerical revisions (-02) for pre-production parts, and alpha revisions (-A) for production revisions. It looks like you got a preproduction assembly, or a knock-off.
There are, in fact, three connectors in this step, not two. The front-facing camera and digitizer connector (Step 11) is really difficult to align when you put it back. Took me about 15 minutes before I succeeded.
Now I have a different problem. Everything works just dandy, EXCEPT:
Towards the bottom of the screen (in portrait) there is a horizontal line that is dead to the touch. For example, on the keyboard, I can use the spacebar, but not C V B N M, etcetera.
Three possibilities in my mind: One, when I dropped it, something else besides the glass and digitizer, etc, was damaged.
Two: I did not replace the cables correctly. This seems unlikely. They all "clicked" into place and stayed there.
Three: The digitizer supplied is faulty.
Comments? Which cable/connector could be causing this -- if it is that?
Take apart, Clean Connections, Put back together.... If same problem sounds like a fault part...
duston -
When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.
The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.
If the ESD plate covering the connectors is properly re-attached to the phone, you should not have to do this. The cover holds all the connectors in place just fine.
iBroke -
I replaced the display assembly to resolve an issue with the phone not responding to any touch input. I assumed it was a bad digitizer. However, I have the same problem with the new display assembly—no touch response at all. The phone starts up fine and the screen works, I just can’t “slide to unlock”. This is also preventing me from downloading photos from the phone since I can’t enter the passcode. I have cleaned the connections and reseated the cables. Is it possible this is a problem on the logic board? If so, is there any way to get the photos off the phone since I can’t enter the passcode on the screen?
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Enlevez le panneau frontal complet du boîtier arrière.
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Passez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) entre la batterie et la prise jack pour déplier la languette adhésive de la batterie.
I didn't need to remove the battery to replace the lightning connector assembly. Skip past steps 17 through 25.
I agree, waste of time and you risk damaging the battery if the adhesive is too strong.
I also didn't need to remove the battery to replace the lightening cable. I'd say skip it unless you have big fingers, because it is a tight space.
The adhesive tab has a small extension tab with a hole in the end closest to the ear phone jack. If you stick the tip of your spudger through it, you can use it to lift one end and get you started.
John Pitts - 답글
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Dégagez la languette adhésive de la batterie de l'iPhone.
It is a must to use a little heat. In my instance I used some hand warmers. My first attempt was with some older ones that didn’t get too hot. I then pulled out some others and using a little bit of time and several hand warmers it seemed to soften the grip of the tape underneath the battery. Using a hair dryer might have been my next step had my hand warmer trick not worked. USE HEAT!!!! It is your friend.
Removing the charging port can make accessing the pull tabs easier.
guardian10 - 답글
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Coupez la languette adhésive noire de la batterie entre les deux bandes adhésives blanches pour les séparer.
Use heat beforehand to soften the grip of the sticky double sided tape that is used to keep the battery in place. USING HEAT IS A PREREQUISITE if you want this to go smoother. I also ended up using a little dental floss the come from underneath and then used it to saw back and forth to loosen the grip of the tape. Just take your time and use the magic of heat to loosen the grip.
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Tirez lentement une des bandes adhésives de la batterie vers le bas de l'iPhone en l'éloignant de la batterie.
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Tirez sans interruption tout en maintenant une tension constante pendant que la bande se dégage de son emplacement entre la batterie et le boîtier arrière. L'idéal c'est de faire sortir la bande à un angle de 60° ou moins.
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Guidez la bande soigneusement autour du coin et le long du côté de la batterie. Veillez à ce qu'elle ne s'accroche pas aux autres composants internes de l'iPhone.
I pulled the first tab straight up and it snapped. I tried to see if I could pry the battery out but couldn't without bending the battery. So I left the battery in and was able to complete this without removing it. However, I'm pretty sure I damaged the battery. Waiting on the replacement battery now to confirm. Long story short, leave the battery in for this fix!
When I tried to remove the adhesive, it snapped on both sides. Even though I was careful not to bend or twist. But now the battery is still stuck in place. What do I do now?
Keep reading; there are some additional steps you can take toward the end of the guide. The battery is much easier to remove if you keep the pull tabs intact, but they can be tricky.
My tabs broke as well, quite close to the battery's lower corners. Then I discovered a reasonably hot surface to place the phone - my quite old Apple Airport Extreme. I warmed the phone for a couple of 3 minute sessions, that didn't loosen the glue but made it more malleable. Then proceeded to carefully pull the tab on the logic board's side with tweezers, which was a success. After that I could get an old ID card under the battery and push the other tab into itself. That done, the glue basically gave out and the battery was free.
So my advice would be to use some sort of heat before pulling on the tabs, which will make them a bit easier to work with. It does take some time but result counts, right?
This is the most awful thing: removing the battery. The adhesive holds sooo strong. I ripped it off very soon. So i heated the back of the iPhone with a hair dryer up and opened the battery with scissors. Then i could draw the battery off.
5c is much better to repair then my last repaired iPhone. A 3gs :-)
Tanx ifixit. You are the best.
I don't thnk we need Steps 9 to 12 to remove the battery
Leave the display attached is you only need to replace the battery !!!
@lmusolino of course you can skip those steps (9-12) but it's risky for those digitizer to be damaged if you are careless while removing the battery.
This was more tricky than I thought. I bent the original battery quite hard to get it of, while blowing the phone with a hair dryer. I fixed two 5c's for my kids and I ordered one kit and a extra battery. I didn't understand when ordering that just one pair of adhesive strips came along, with the kit. I partial them using one strip each on the phones. Hope that it will work. Everything seems to work with the phones.
Don't pull too hard or it will break just gently apply presaure
If u do break the tabs the lift the top end of th battery and get them from that end
the adhesive is very strong and does NOT pull free. you MUST use heat (iopener) or similar to apply heat to it. go slow and when (not if) the adhesive snaps you will have to find a way to shove a spudger or an old credit card under the battery. after that, just rub your finger over the adhesive firmly and “roll” it out. this stuff is really nasty.
Whilst pulling the adhesive strips from beneath the battery, I was making sure to not pull too fast and also to keep in flat, not twisted, and it still snapped on both sides way before I even got half way… I haven’t had my battery replaced at all so the adhesive should be authentic Apple factory standards. Be SUPER careful at this stage people, I’m going to try and remove the battery with the adhesive in place :S
Steve Hind - 답글
Both my tabs broke immediately with the gentlest tug, as if they were dry and ready to come off. So I heated the back of the phone with warm heat from a hair dryer and was able to push a thin flexible plastic piece (thinner than a credit card but strong enough to be pushed in) under the corner of the battery near its connector. It would go in only so far, so I kept reheating and pushing it in more, moving up the long side of the battery. This works because you’re pushing toward / against the frame side so you can exert enough pressure. You don’t need to pry or lift the battery up (and you shouldn’t anyway because you may damage the components along the side of the battery and/or the battery itself) until it’s mostly loose.
This part was really difficult. After reading other comments, I applied heat right away (I balanced my phone and screen (rubber-banded like in step 8) on top of the iOpener - had to be very careful to keep it balanced). The case-side strip pulled around the battery corner and snapped; the logic board-side strip snapped immediately.
I couldn’t get plastic cards or triangle wedges in far enough to get leverage; I carefully used two spudgers to pry up the bottom of the battery. From there I used tweezers to grab the edge of the logic-side adhesive. It took many tries to grab enough to continue to pull it, but once I had it, I got the whole strip out. Then my battery was loose enough to pry it up and off of the other strip with a plastic card.
It’s definitely easier to get the battery out if you can get the logic board-side strip out. The strips came out easier when I stopped pulling and grabbed the base instead of pulling from the end. I tried to keep the angle as flat as possible but there’s not much room.
Both tabs broke. I tried heat multiple times and alcohol. Based on this step the rating on this repair should be changed to difficult. It is too easy to damage other cables. I’ve damaged some cable but I don’t know which one from the videos. I would say if you get to this point and it doesn’t come up easily after applying heat, go to a professional or risk further damage to other components. It is very difficult to use the card to pry without damaging something.
Now that the phone is reassembled, I can say that what is broken is the touch sensitivity on the screen. The sensory perception is off.
Now that the phone is reassembled, I can say that what is broken is the touch sensitivity on the screen. The sensory perception is off.
THE FLOSS is where it’s at. Heat slowly and work the floss through.
eastkyprog - 답글
When I (gently) start pulling strips, they both TORN.
After try out (unsuccessfully) different recommendations, it works out the one with (pure) ALCOHOL.
My way was in particularly like that: I take SPUDGER and wet it FLAT-HEAD with alcohol. And start to pry up battery from left side, near middle (there's some more space). Step by step, for a LITTLE bit, deeper and deeper, and EVERYTIME to wet spudger with alcohol. So all way down to bottom, and from the bottom (not from the motherboard on the right, and upper side at all). It takes couple (or more) dozens prying ups. Eventually battery came off, and leave adhesive at the case (removed with alcohol and spudger again).
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Répétez la même procédure pour la deuxième bande.
I was able to remove the first strip as the guide discusses in Step#20. When I attempted to peel the second strip, as in Step #21 above, it broke. This left the adhesive strip on half of the battery and I was unable to grip anything. I got some dental floss and threaded it underneath the already free side. I then used a slight back and forth motion to loosen the grip of the other half of the strip enough that I could "GENTLY" pry the free side of the battery up. Taking extreme care not to pry against any components of the phone. I then gently pried the battery up a little at a time along with using a sawing motion on the dental floss to eventually free the battery from the underlying adhesive strip. Takes patience and persistence. GENTLY being the operative word.
At this step, be VERY careful with the two gold-colored prongs (pins) right next to the lightening cable port. If you crush/bend/collapse these pins, they won’t make contact with the screen side when re-assemble the phone, making your Home button non-functional.
If accidentally collapsed the pin because you pushed on it, be VERY careful bending it back. You have one shot at getting this right. Over-bending leads to the pins breaking off, and then you’re really f’ed. That’s what happened to me, and I had to solder some tin onto the base to build-up to the right height; very tedious.
https://s.real.com/jnjcW3 This shows photo of what I’m talking about.
Jack Chang - 답글
The adhesive tape snapped on me as well. Tried strong cotton to cheesewire it out, much like the dental floss, but didn’t work, kept snapping. Tried a little heat from hair drier, didn’t help! Had to prise the bottom end up enough to insert very thin metal scaper, approx. 1” wide and slowly force it up . Nerve wracking, but finally came out.
Oops, just seen the next step was to help with this problem!
I did not use the recommended tools, so it’s not the best advice.
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Retirez la batterie de l'iPhone.
Use heat before attempting to remove adhesive strips. They will break. Heat helps tp loosen the grip and is your friend. Dental floss can also be a good helper to saw back and forth once you get it under one corner of the battery. Go slow and take your time. USE HEAT BEFOREHAND. I FOUNF THAT IT TOOK A GOOD 3-5 minutes to get everything hot enough to loosen the grip of the tape.
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Suivez nos instructions pour chauffer l'iOpener pour dissoudre l'adhésif qui scelle votre batterie au boîtier arrière.
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Posez l'iOpener sur l'arrière de l'iPhone à droite de la caméra. Lissez-le pour assurer un bon contact entre le dos de l'iPhone et l'iOpener.
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Laissez-le sur l'iPhone pendant environ 90 secondes avant d'essayer d'enlever la batterie.
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Si vous utilisez un sèche-cheveux ou un pistolet à air chaud, chauffez le dos de l'iPhone jusqu'à ce qu'il soit légèrement trop chaud pour être touché.
you can substitute a 'bed buddy' or similar microwave activated heating pack here for the iOpener. i eventually wound up working on-top-of the heading pad as at softened the adhesive. take your time and let the heat work
A hairdryer works too. Aim it at the same spot on the back of the phone, don't let it get too hot though.
Dan Harris - 답글
Instead of using the iOpener, I opted for my “patented” “Rice in a sock” and heated the sock for 1 minute, which worked perfectly. I laid the heated sock flat and used it as a mini work bench while removing the adhesive strip! My wife uses this for when she has head aches, which caused “me to not have a headache”, when peeling back the adhesive strips!
I always have to do this because the adhesive strips never work because they can’t be pulled out at a flat enough angle. As you heat the back of the case in preparation for battery removal, also load some heat into some kind of smooth, flat metal tool to slide under one end of the battery as you pry it up. This makes for much less prying on the battery and much less chance of damaging it. It also makes for faster removal. The metal spatula tool provided in the fixit Pro Tech Toolkit, Pro Tech Toolkit, (an earlier version of which I use CONSTANTLY and is one of the most used toolkits I have) is perfect for this job.
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Insérez soigneusement une carte en plastique sous la batterie sur le côté le plus près de la carte mère.
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Faites glisser la carte du haut en bas de la batterie en poussant vers le côté du boîtier.
A picture of the position of the upper ribbon cable would be useful here. I have falsely thought that you only have to be careful around the top edge of the battery that is near the logic board, and have managed to cut the upper component cable with the plastic card.. :(
The third bullet of this step has a link to two photos of the cable.
I destroyed the ribbon cable that runs down the side of the case toward the headphone jack (not mentioned in the instructions!) while trying to wedge the battery out with a credit card. Am I SOL or is there a fix?
Peter Hill - 답글
Sounds like you hit the upper component cable mentioned in red in the instructions. “Avoid prying near the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the upper component ribbon cable.” You’ll likely need to replace the cable, or use on-screen accessibility button replacements. If you’d like to post photos to our Answers Forum, you may get more specific help for your situation. Best of luck!
Wow. Good luck removing your battery by this method. The adhesive on mine was impossible to remove, finally the battery foil peeled off, the battery was totally destroyed, and I had to scrape the adhesive off the phone bit by bit. Scary to abuse a lithium battery that way… Destroyed my ribbon cable, too, so now I can spend another $30 and a bunch more time… Wow. Not recommended; impossible to accomplish as described. Battery is not removable. Those adhesive strips are from !&&*. There is no reason to use that adhesive in that location, except to deliberately make the phone non-serviceable. Once the adhesive gets old, it just snaps and heat doesn’t help. Good luck.
Well… That was interesting. I dropped my phone this morning at some weird angle and the housing bent a little. I opened the phone only to reveal a torn battery. The adhesive strips were so old they were impossible to remove even after I removed the exploded battery. Just, wow, I never thought a caseless phone drop + a hot summer day would result in this. What a scary thing to see blue-green chemical flames inside a phone! I’ve never seen this happen with a Note 7 so I thought I’d never see a burning battery, but boy was I wrong!
Ryan Scott - 답글
dental floss works great but needs lots of pressure and heat
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Soulevez et retirez la batterie de l'iPhone.
My repair went well. However, the teeny screws were a nuisance putting the parts back. I have relatively large hands, so I used the tweezers. I finally got all of them in, save one. It popped out, and I thought I lost it. Luckily, it was stuck to my hand! The magnetic screwdriver helped, but if it was off a bit it would pull the screw out. Not bad for my first repair. Apple must use elves to assemble their products.
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Comparez votre nouvelle pièce de rechange à la pièce d'origine, vous devrez peut-être transférer les composants restants ou enlever les films adhésif au dos de la nouvelle pièce avant de l'installer.
Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez les étapes ci-dessus dans l'ordre inverse.
Apportez vos déchets électroniques à un recycleur R2 ou de déchets électroniques certifié.
La réparation ne s'est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez notre forum de réponses pour obtenir de l'aide au diagnostic.
Comparez votre nouvelle pièce de rechange à la pièce d'origine, vous devrez peut-être transférer les composants restants ou enlever les films adhésif au dos de la nouvelle pièce avant de l'installer.
Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez les étapes ci-dessus dans l'ordre inverse.
Apportez vos déchets électroniques à un recycleur R2 ou de déchets électroniques certifié.
La réparation ne s'est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez notre forum de réponses pour obtenir de l'aide au diagnostic.
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I am disappointed with the guide - not up to iFixit's usual standards. I got the iPhone open and the battery out just fine, but there were *three* missing hints that would have cut a half-hour from my re-assembly:
1) The connector cover has three short screws and one long one. The video doesn't show which is the long one, so I had to farble around to get the screws back. (The long one is the top-right one, near the hinge on the right side of the phone)
2) There are no hints on the video or in the box about putting the adhesive strips back in. I was trying to get the tab to fold over, but got all wrapped up in the strips. It took a lot of time to fix it, and I still don't know if it's important to fold the tab over or not.
3) There is no information about whether to retain the clear cellophane wrapper that comes on the battery. I took it off - hope that's right.
That said, all the tools were included in the kit, they work as advertised. And the phone's back together, and we'll see how it works...
In reference to your #1 point, this is very good example of why a SCREW-MAT or iCracked Part Chart come in very handy!
Especially in repairs like the 5s ... some screws look the same, but are .01" different ... enough to scratch/break the trace underneath on the logic board .... adding another $100 (and a week travel time by mail, if you cannot do the repair yourself), to your repair - to have it micro-soldered.
With Screw-Mats or iCracked Part Charts, every screw is placed on it's corresponding marker, so you know exactly which screw is which.
If you are in a pinch, and do not have a Screw Mat, you can draw little diagrams on a piece of paper or a dry erase surface, and mark out where each and every screw goes, as sometimes there is that .01" difference in screw sizes, that can really screw up (no pun intended) your repair.
Cheers!
iBroke -
They did mention the screw size in the guide here by color coding the MM. I agree with point two, but that's nitpicking. Lastly (the reason I commented), you did it right. The plastic should be removed so it is just like the orig battery, if you would leave the cellophane on, the adhesive would be stuck to it instead of the battery and making for a poorly secured battery.
Overall, the parts and kit were good, but this phone is not my favorite iPhone to work on. Getting that old battery out was extremely annoying compared to the 4, 4s, 5, and 5s that I've all done in the past.
On a side note, this is the first ifixit branded battery I've received and I've ordered a lot of parts from them over the years. They used to source what looked line 100% orig batteries. I avoid non original batteries like the plague, I don't care if it's a phone, laptop, or even my APC UPS devices. Ifixit has earned my trust over the years with all the parts and tools so I went ahead and installed it, I'm sure it's good.
Apple doesn’t sell original batteries to outsiders.
If you are buying an Apple-branded battery, it’s either a fake or used.
toni -
Hey Toni, check out our parts and warranty information!
Hi,
I have a problem with the battery ever since I installed the battery in my iPhone 5c, the volume buttons are jammed. I think I moved the battery too close to the button and it may have jammed it, I want to take the battery out and place it back, but it is too sticky and is stuck, what should I do?
Hello, is there any chance I have damaged the battery when removed? I folded it when removed for replacement of the rear box. After that the device does not turn on.
The pictures on removing the battery adhesive strips are not very accurate, i have (sadly only later) found pictures on another guide that show how the adhesive strips need to be pulled past the SIDES of the battery. my careful attempt to follow your instructions here resulted in ripping both adhesives. so i did the plastic card thing which you suggest in step 24, AND THERE IS DEFINITELY A CAUTION NOTICE MISSING!! i had no idea that under the top of the battery was the upper component flex cable, which i then irreperably damaged with the card. now i had to order that one too and have to removely almost the whole phone from its casing to replace that cable... PLEASE put a caution notice in at step 24 to warn other users not to go too high up from the side of the battery in order to not damage the upper component cable. thanks
In steps 20-21, could you add another image to illustrate what you say about removing the two adhesive strips...how far to guide the strips around the corner and up the side of the battery?
And the phone doesn't seem to be charging but says it is
Chris -
I found the same problem, the home button stopped to work. The problem is related to the connectors of the home button, there are two on the left side of the button behind the touch screen and two on the base of the iPhone. When you close the iPhone, after the replacement of the battery, the connector is so delicate that it broken! Maybe is very low quality (!) (I'm very disappointed with Apple!).
Since I don't find the name of this flex cable (it's not the home button but the opposite one where you plug it) to buy it, I found a workaround that consists in to weld 2 wires in order to close the circuit when pressing the home button. Very bad solution but it works!!!
Marco -
My home button also stopped working. I opened the phone back up and noticed that one of the copper wires that Marco is alluding to was bent lower than the other. I took the spudger under the lower wire and teased it back up to match the other wire, and the home button now works again.
help, one side of adhesive broke, remains stuck. I will try heating with a therapeutic heat-or-cool-bag. Not practical to send off for i-opener.
A hair dryer will also work. You just need to get the adhesive good and hot to help soften it up. Flip the phone over and heat it from the back.
I was able to succeed in installing my battery following the guide. I have place a few comments on my experience in the steps above. Most notably, my second piece of adhesive strip broke and I had to revert to using some dental floss in order to get my battery removed. Gentle persuasion and persistence is the key... Have to be gentle when attempting to pry the battery up and not use the edge of the remaining components as leverage points. I would definitely rate this as moderate. Attempting to push the connectors back on during the reassembly steps was daunting. Everything is so small and you have to rely more on feel than site. Be methodical and gently push the connectors down. If they don't click or snap then you are not aligned correctly and you simply need to try again.
Seems like success. I bought the kit but I broke one of the battery strips, did not have the iopener so I used a container with hot water inside to warm instead of that. Still had to lose a lot of time with the removal of the battery. Secondly, I assembled the display wrongly two times before succeeding - very small structures and one of them was constantly badly connected. Had to reset the device two times before everything was into place. All the buttons work. The battery charges and I have calibrated it. This was the first time I ever fixed anything. Very neat packaging, with extra screws and a pack of gummy bears lol.
Followed this guide to replace battery due to water damage on my iPhone 5C. Both adhesive strips broke and I used heat pad to first heat up phone from backside and used a plastic card to remove battery. You need to be very careful while removing battery as any extra pressure will damage other parts. The difficult part was to put back the screws of connectors bracket. Screws are so tiny that aligning them just using screw driver is tough. Use tweezers to correctly place the screw and tighten using screw driver. All functions seem to be working fine. Thanks for well documented instructions.
I watched the video and then followed the guide step by step and thankfully I made it from beginning to end with virtually no mishaps. The worst part by far is the adhesive strips because the first side broke when nearly complete but the second half broke right at the top. I ended up having to use a "bed buddy" heating sock (all I had in a pinch since I didn't have your heat removal kit) and I cut down a piece of flexible cheap cutting mat that can be found at a place like IKEA to make my removal tool. With care and patience it worked. Without the instructions though I would have been totally stuck and had to take it to some kiosk repair shop to get it fixed for the $60 I was trying to save. Last Apple phone I ever buy, but not the last time I utilize ifixit.com. Thanks.
One more thing...I appreciate that you utilize all paper packaging with your kits instead of a paper box with plastic tray.
The battery adhesive strips included in the replacement kit were a real pain to install. One side of the strips would not come loose from the plastic protective cover and tore into pieces. I used some 3M Blu-Tac spread thinly under the battery. This seems to work well and should make the battery replacement easier in the future
Everything seems to be working after battery replacement. I hope it speeds things up, as Apple has promised. It took me almost 2 hours to replace due to fumbling with the teeny-tiny screws, even with tweezers. The screwdriver in the accompanying kit became magnetized and kept pulling the screws out of the hole before I could screw it down!
sugestion for everyone that seems to have trouble with those “teeny- tiny” screws. get a magnifying, lighted jewelers headset. this will give you a better view of everything. I have NO prob with the size of any of these parts because of that. it should be a standard part of your repair arsenal if you want to do it right without straining your eyes and/or fumbling.
The adhesive tabs broke the moment I touched them - the woman in the video must live in an alternate, better universe. The alternative of using a credit card definitely won’t work on its own as described - it’s thicker than the gap between the logic board and the battery. I fashioned a thinner piece from an old package and between that the leverage of a credit card a bit later, which still broke in two pieces, I got the battery out, but destroyed the ribbon cable running down the side of the phone. So looks like I’m off to the apple store after all.
Peter Hill - 답글
I followed this whole guide, and now I can’t even turn my phone on. It took way longer, and was way more difficult than I expected. I definitely damaged the old battery taking it out, and now my phone won’t even turn on or charge. Guess I’m going to the Apple store to see if they can fix it. So much for saving money, and doing it myself.
J’ai remplacé la batterie hier, à l’aide du kit de montage, et ça s’est fait facilement.
Une des bandes de fixation de la batterie s’est rompue, j’ai du chauffer l’arrière du téléphone avec un sèche cheveux, grâce aux commentaires, je n’ai pas endommagé la nappe qui passe juste dessous sur le haut de la batterie. J’ai ensuite positionné les bandes adhésives logiquement par rapport au démontage.
J’avais mal reconnecté une des nappes de l’écran, j’ai du le redémonter, mais en dehors de ça, avec l’aide des photos et de la vidéo, il n’y a aucune raison de ne pas se lancer.
j’ai juste pensé à une chose: attention de ne pas diriger le flux d’air chaud vers les vis démontées, car une fois envolées, pour les retrouver ça doit être coton. En conclusion, en restant concentré, en prenant son temps, il n’y a aucune raison que ça se passe mal.
Depuis, le téléphone a retrouvé sa capacité de charge, en ayant respecté la règle de le laisser se décharger en dessous de 10%, puis le recharger à bloc.
Merci IFixit donc :)
Whew; experienced with Mac repair, but this was my first iPhone. The stupid adhesive tabs suck, but a few minutes with a heat gun fixed that. Managed to have one of the insanely small screws pop out of the tweezer and land in the rug at my feet; after a few minutes trying to spot it, I slapped my forehead and grabbed a couple of hefty magnets from my fridge and waved my hands over the area; I didn’t even notice when the screw was picked up, but there it was on the magnet when I was done. The last sticking point was that %#*@ multi-touch lcd cable kept popping up; angling the back forward while holding the cable connector down until the two top screws to the shield were back in helped; as it was, it took five tries (thus the bobbled screw, above). Getting those teensy tiny screws back in was the harder part of this. Calibrating battery now! Thanks again, iFixIt!
Generally a great guide. The tip about the LCD connector popping off during reassembly is well worth noting!
Take care when opening the phone that the top edge of the screen doesn’t foul the vibrate unit in the top left corner; I nearly sheared this off.
Might be nice to add a final step about seating the new adhesive strips before installing the new battery.
I’m pleased with the guide and kit. Not considered a “techie”, I was anxious about trying a Apple 5C battery replacement, but I’m glad I did. No problems encountered except removing the adhesive strip on the old battery and I was able to remedy that with the additional instructions for what appears to be a common disassembly problem. The phone powered on, I’m draining the battery before recharging, and then I am hoping all was reconnected correctly and I’m good to go!
This was great. Pretty straight forward and now my phone is like new again. I recommend warming the back of the phone up before attempting to peel off the adhesive strips. Also the strips are wider than I realized so you have to do a lot of perpendicular pulling, if that makes sense. Thanks!
Followed this and was able to repair my sons phone. Thanks for a great tutorial!
If you heat a hot/cold gel pack and place the phone on top of the pack for a couple minutes it will soften the adhesive. I continue to work on top of the gel pack until the battery is free. Usually less than 5 minutes.
I am not a techie person, but this tutorial really did the trick— who knew this could be done at home? My suggestions: do this when you won’t be distracted and have plenty of time. Read through the directions step by step, and the comments, before you start, so you can know the pitfalls on each step in advance. The tools worked really well- no need for anything from home, other than a can of soda, rubber band, and hair dryer (heat really does help with the adhesive strips; mine both broke and I had to use the card technique to remove the old battery). I also used a magnetic sheet magnet (the kind you get for the fridge with a calendar or ad on it) to hold the tiny screws, with post-its indicating which step they were associated with. Good luck!
The battery I bought from Ifixit expanded and cracked the plastic case of the phone.
Please, Ifixit, use better quality batteries!
Sorry to hear about the unsuccessful repair!
We don’t see an order associated with your account but our Support team is here to assist. In the event you need to find additional parts to complete your repairs, or if you decide you wish to return the kit that you ordered, feel free to reach out to us. If you purchased in the US, Canadian or Australian store please refer to help.ifixit.com, if you purchased in the EU store please write to eustore(at)ifixit.com.
Worked just fine for me. My biggest issue was the adhesive strips immediately tearing when I tried to pull them out. I used the hair dryer trick…slow, but eventually got the battery out. Good instructions overall, but I do a lot of repair work so not much new here. Appreciated the caution about keeping the screws straight. That could have been a disaster if those got mixed up.
This worked as advertised. I used it to repair and my wife’s old iPhone 5c with pictures of her late father. and going to gift to her this Christmas!!
I had some difficulties, but was ultimately successful. The biggest problem I had was that the old glue strips didn’t want to come off, and snapped easily. Fortunately, I had an iOpener kit as well (for another project), and eventually was able to get the old battery out and scrape off the old glue.
I didn’t have too much of a problem keeping track of the screws, although a screw mat would help in this regard. The problem I had with the screws is that they are so tiny! Very hard to work with. I managed to lose one, which I have deemed non-essential.
Another problem I had is that the screen and digitizer cables are too short for the screen to prop up at a full 90 degrees. I managed to disconnect (or perhaps it wasn’t re-connected right in the first place) the digitizer cable, as when I turned the phone on, it had vertical lines through the screen. I unplugged the battery and re-seated the 3 cables that connect to the screen, ensuring that they snapped into place. A bit tricky to reassemble.
Gary Wolfe - 답글
The instructions and video were very clear. I followed the steps and everything went back together perfectly, except for the screen. The top corner of the screen seems a 0.5mm above the edge compared to the rest of the screen. I’m worried I didn’t “sit” the screen correctly. The phone powers on and seems fine, but a little worried it could separate. I ordered a new case to hopefully keep it secure when I give it back to my 8 year-old.
One more thing… The battery kit came with a small card labeled, “iPhone 5c Liberation Kit,” that included two screws. They weren’t labeled. Are they meant to replace the P2 Pentalobe screws?
Step23 and 24. After it had warmed it up for ma while use the lifter. Light pressure up and let the heat do the work. The pressure up will stress the glue and with the heat it will let go.
marcheroux - 답글
