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Utilisez ce tutoriel pour remplacer le haut-parleur droit.

Ce tutoriel est destiné au haut-parleur situé sur le côté droit de votre ordinateur portable. Pendant une bonne partie du tutoriel, il sera sur votre gauche, car l'ordinateur portable sera à l'envers.

  1. Ôtez les dix vis suivantes, qui fixent le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :
    • Ôtez les dix vis suivantes, qui fixent le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :

    • Deux vis Pentalobe P5 de 2,3 mm

    • Huit vis Pentalobe P5 de 3,0 mm

    • Tout au long de cette réparation, prenez note de l'emplacement de chaque vis, et assurez-vous qu'elle retrouvera sa place initiale pour éviter d'endommager votre appareil.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - 답글

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - 답글

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - 답글

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - 답글

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - 답글

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - 답글

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - 답글

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - 답글

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - 답글

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - 답글

  2. Glissez vos doigts entre le boîtier inférieur et le boîtier supérieur.
    • Glissez vos doigts entre le boîtier inférieur et le boîtier supérieur.

    • Séparez avec précaution les deux boîtiers, soulevez et retirez le boîtier inférieur.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - 답글

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - 답글

  3. Le boîtier inférieur est attaché au boîtier supérieur par deux attaches en plastique au milieu. Lors du remontage, appuyez doucement sur le milieu du boîtier inférieur pour que les deux attaches s'enclenchent à nouveau.
    • Le boîtier inférieur est attaché au boîtier supérieur par deux attaches en plastique au milieu.

    • Lors du remontage, appuyez doucement sur le milieu du boîtier inférieur pour que les deux attaches s'enclenchent à nouveau.

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - 답글

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - 답글

    Can you make a youtube video showing the steps? I am not sure how to proceed with this step. I want to see it done.

    Thanks.

    Carol Garrett - 답글

  4. Si nécessaire, retirez le cache en plastique couvrant la carte de contact de la batterie.
    • Si nécessaire, retirez le cache en plastique couvrant la carte de contact de la batterie.

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - 답글

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - 답글

  5. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), tirez le connecteur de la batterie tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère. Assurez-vous de faire levier uniquement sur le connecteur et non pas sur sa prise, sinon vous risquez d'endommager irréversiblement la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), tirez le connecteur de la batterie tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier uniquement sur le connecteur et non pas sur sa prise, sinon vous risquez d'endommager irréversiblement la carte mère.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - 답글

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - 답글

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - 답글

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - 답글

  6. Pliez le connecteur de la batterie vers le haut afin d'éviter tout contact accidentel avec la prise pendant la réparation.
    • Pliez le connecteur de la batterie vers le haut afin d'éviter tout contact accidentel avec la prise pendant la réparation.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - 답글

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - 답글

  7. Dévissez les deux vis Torx T5 de 2,1 mm fixant le support de la nappe de la carte E/S du côté de la carte mère.
    • Dévissez les deux vis Torx T5 de 2,1 mm fixant le support de la nappe de la carte E/S du côté de la carte mère.

    At this point it's a good idea to take sheet of printer paper, like A4, and press each screw into the paper roughly in the position it was removed from. When it comes time to reassemble it, you wont get the different lengths mixed up.

    Martin Gray - 답글

    This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, skipped the I/O Cable removal (Steps 7, 8, 9, 10) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery.

    barak - 답글

    After this step I continued from step 13, the steps in between were not really necessary in my opinion ( I succeeded the replacement without them). Just be careful not to touch these connectors during replacement.

    driesverfaillie - 답글

    While it may not be necessary to remove the left and right speakers, doing so will make it much easier to get at (and under) the end batteries and their adhesive pads. Also, by removing the speakers, you also get them out of harm’s way while you wrestle with loosening the batteries’ adhesives.

    I recommend removing the speakers and their connectors as described in the iFixit instructions.

    doubleclutch - 답글

    I did this step when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” so it would be easier to access the speaker connector

    Evan Shulman - 답글

    I agree that moving the speakers out of the way makes battery removal easier but I didn’t disconnect the right speaker, just removed the screws and folded it back out of the way. I disconnected and removed the left speaker as instructed below.

    Jim Turney - 답글

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - 답글

  8. Saisissez le support de la nappe de la carte E/S avec une pincette et retirez-le du Macbook.
    • Saisissez le support de la nappe de la carte E/S avec une pincette et retirez-le du Macbook.

  9. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour ôter le connecteur de la carte E/S de sa prise sur la carte mère. Veillez à faire seulement levier sur la nappe de la carte E/S et non sur la prise elle-même, vous risqueriez d'endommager la carte mère.
    • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour ôter le connecteur de la carte E/S de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Veillez à faire seulement levier sur la nappe de la carte E/S et non sur la prise elle-même, vous risqueriez d'endommager la carte mère.

  10. Saisissez la nappe de la carte E/S par son extrémité du côté de la carte mère et soulevez-la et pliez-la pour qu'elle ne vous dérange pas. Pour éviter d'endommager la nappe, pliez-la seulement au niveau du coude à l'extrémité de la nappe la plus proche de la carte E/S.
    • Saisissez la nappe de la carte E/S par son extrémité du côté de la carte mère et soulevez-la et pliez-la pour qu'elle ne vous dérange pas.

    • Pour éviter d'endommager la nappe, pliez-la seulement au niveau du coude à l'extrémité de la nappe la plus proche de la carte E/S.

    I removed I/O Board cable completely on both ends using a flat end plastic spudger tool. I did not feel comfortable “bending” it as shown in Pic. Be careful to not damage sockets on either end when removing battery. Extra care to not get any adhesive debris in exposed sockets. I have used the solvent with syringe and that can get rather messy and risk getting liquid onto keyboard/screen/motherboard components etc/. This time I used a plastic “Disposable Putty Knife” from Ace hardware. Speakers where easily removed in subsequent steps. Started pushing in from edges with plastic putty knife and battery cells separated surprisingly easy. This method is clean & much easier than the dental floss struggle!! I used Googone with QTips to remove adhesive remnants.

    lamajr - 답글

    What is the strip sticking out from behind the battery at the top right middle?? How do I reconnect that?? I think that's why my battery isn't working. I was going to get to the Trac pad until I realized how big a job it is. Just want to fix this connection and put it back the way it was :(

    numbers - 답글

    Besser: Das Kabel kann leicht an beiden Enden gelöst und dann herausgenommen werden. Dann ist es nicht im Weg.

    Karsten Franke - 답글

  11. Insérez délicatement l'extrémité pointue du spudger sous la nappe du haut-parleur droit à proximité du connecteur. Ensuite soulevez-la afin de la déconnecter de sa prise sur la carte mère. Insérez délicatement l'extrémité pointue du spudger sous la nappe du haut-parleur droit à proximité du connecteur. Ensuite soulevez-la afin de la déconnecter de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Insérez délicatement l'extrémité pointue du spudger sous la nappe du haut-parleur droit à proximité du connecteur. Ensuite soulevez-la afin de la déconnecter de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent)

    barak - 답글

    WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket! I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker… Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side!

    jiclark - 답글

    Put the spudger under the very centre where you see the cutout and be gentle !! It does in fact pry upward the wire itself is very fragile.

    Mmm ttt - 답글

    I used the flat end of the spudger and tried to match the width of the connector, while applying gentle upward pressure to pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - 답글

    The key to accomplishing this step easily and without danger to the socket… is to follow the instruction (and the picture) PRECISELY by placing the spudger flat end under the CABLE (not the connector). Lifting the CABLE easily removes the connector from the socket without getting anywhere near the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - 답글

    Seconding barak’s comment, no need to disconnect the speaker cables, keep them attached and just swing the brackets out of the way.

    Julio Garcia - 답글

  12. Soulevez délicatement la nappe du haut-parleur droit hors du boîtier supérieur. Soulevez délicatement la nappe du haut-parleur droit hors du boîtier supérieur. Soulevez délicatement la nappe du haut-parleur droit hors du boîtier supérieur.
    • Soulevez délicatement la nappe du haut-parleur droit hors du boîtier supérieur.

  13. Enlevez les vis suivantes, fixant le haut-parleur droit au boîtier supérieur :
    • Enlevez les vis suivantes, fixant le haut-parleur droit au boîtier supérieur :

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 5,7 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 6,5 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 3,8 mm

    Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - 답글

  14. Soulevez le haut-parleur droit à l'endroit où se situe la nappe et enlevez-le du boîtier. Soulevez le haut-parleur droit à l'endroit où se situe la nappe et enlevez-le du boîtier. Soulevez le haut-parleur droit à l'endroit où se situe la nappe et enlevez-le du boîtier.
    • Soulevez le haut-parleur droit à l'endroit où se situe la nappe et enlevez-le du boîtier.

    There may be some adhesive securing the cable - work it loose with a spudger before removal.

    Bob Kemp - 답글

결론

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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Sam Goldheart

회원 가입일: 2012년 10월 18일

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iFixit iFixit 회원

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Easy to follow guide! completed the installation within half an hour. Thanks guys :)

Jeevan Kumar - 답글

Parfait. Comptez 30 min au total. Merci

Jacques Krief - 답글

I bought all the suggested tools and parts and changed both the left and the right speaker on my wifes Mac Book Pro in 30 minutes. Fantastic guide and site for fixing things. I will come back to this site in the future for DIY repairs. Thank you.

Jodel Manning - 답글

On point, simple and complete, thanks

sintobeanrv - 답글

Waaay too easy — thx!

Bruce Coffman - 답글

Grazie mille, Ottima guida!

Chiara Di Gregorio - 답글

Easy to follow. Thanks!!

Obed Ruiz - 답글

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