소개
Replacement of rear connectors on the Supernova M99 Pro bicycle light.
필요한 것
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Figure out if you need to replace one or both connectors. If in doubt replace it, you don't want to do this job twice.
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Using a T25 driver remove the red "service port" from the rear of the light.
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There will be an oring under this screw, do not lose it
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The front glass of the light is about 2.5mm thick tempered glass. It is held in with what appears to be RTV silicone. This adhesive will not soften with heat, don't waste your time.
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Use a piece of thin aluminum cut from a beverage can to cut the adhesive between the glass and aluminum light body. If you can fit it you can fold the aluminum in half to make a stiffer tool.
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You can try to scrape out the adhesive as you go. This should not be necessary as you just need to cut the bond line.
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It may be possible to pry the glass out with a plastic pry tool or guitar pick. Using metal for this risks breaking the front glass.
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Another option for removing the front glass is gently pressurizing the light body with compressed air to "pop" the glass out.
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A blow off nozzle with a rubber tip can be inserted into the service port hole on the back. It takes very little pressure to force the glass out, only a few psi.
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The glass may eject itself from the light during this process, make sure there is a soft place for it to land to avoid breakage.
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Be sure to wear safety glasses during this step in case the glass breaks.
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Remove the three screws holding the DRL assembly and reflector in place
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Gently lift out the DRL assembly then remove the reflector and set aside
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The LED assembly is held in with two screws that are very hard to access. The short side of an L-handle hex key will work. Slowly, 60 degrees at a time.
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These screws should have lock washers under them.
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The emitter has a thermal transfer material under it that will hold it in place. Break this bond by prying gently.
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Cut the RTV blobs on each side of the PCB free from the housing. You do not need to remove this material, just cut it free from the housing. Running a metal pick around the edge works well.
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This RTV is covering an indicator LED and the ambient light sensor. Be careful not to damage these components.
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Remove the two screws on the PCB
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The PCB is also stuck down with thermal compound and may be difficult to break lose. Heating the back of the main housing might help soften this material.
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Try to remove by pulling on the edge of the PCB near the connectors.
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As a last resort you can try pushing the PCB free by threading an M5 screw into the service port on the back of the light until it pushes on the PCB.
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Using a plastic screw, plastic tipped screw or sticking a small piece of plastic to the tip of a metal screw will prevent scratching the PCB.
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Cut the wires between the connectors and the main PCB
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Here are images of the factory wiring colors and locations for reference. Schematics and diagrams in later steps.
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The nuts on the back of the connectors take a 9mm socket.
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However they seem to be glues to the connectors. Even after removing the visible adhesive enough to get the socket on the connectors just spun in the housing
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You can use a rotary tool with a small burr cutter to split the nuts and pry them off. You could also attack the connectors from the outside and push them thru.
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Clean all the old thermal compound off with solvent, 99% isopropyl worked well.
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Also clean out any dust and metal shavings.
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Desolder wires and clean PCB holes with solder sucker or wick.
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If your connectors did not come with wires you will need to solder and heat shrink pigtails on. 50mm length works well.
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Note the female signal connector has two pins on the back that are connected together. See wiring table
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Install the new connectors into the housing. Make sure you place them in the correct holes
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Oring goes on the outside of the housing
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Install and tighten nuts
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Glue nuts in place. There was glue on these connectors from the factory likely to keep the nuts from coming loose. Use a small amount of epoxy or CA glue on the threads to secure the nuts
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Using the wiring chart and PCB diagram in the above step solder all wires to their correct locations.
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Note some of the wire colors in these images do not match the OE wire colors
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Apply thermal grease to the flat raised areas under the PCB
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Install PBC, it is very tight to get the PCB into place. You will need to bend the wires out of the way very close to the connectors. But it will fit
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Once you have the main PCB under the connectors and under the ledge for the LED emitter assembly. Apply thermal grease to the backside of of the LED assembly.
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Screws with Lock washers go on the LED PCB
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Screws without washers go on main PCB
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Tighten screws and clean up any excess thermal grease
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Now is the time to plug the light in and make sure it works before you seal the housing.
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Best practice would be to secure the loose wires to the PCB or housing with RTV or similar for strain relief and vibration
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Dust the inside of the housing well using compressed air or similar.
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Install the reflector then the DRL PCB on top of the reflector
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Install the 3 screws used to secure the DRL PCB
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Dust the reflector and DRL assembly in preparation for installing front glass
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Clean the from glass to remove all leftover OE adhesive using light abrasive like ScotchBrite
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Clean the inside of the glass very well. This is your last chance and finger prints or dust on the inside will be there forever.
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Clean the edges of the glass and mating surface on the housing with isopropyl alcohol.
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Apply a very small bead of RTV sealant the entire way around the housing. Be sure there are no gaps in the bead. A syringe with a small dispensing needle is very helpful for this step
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Place the front glass, be sure the it is right side up. Push down into place fully
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Clean of excess RTV from the outside by wiping with isopropyl and a clean cloth.
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Is you mess up or have any concerns about the amount of adhesive you used immediately remove the glass. Clean off all the uncured adhesive with IPA and repeat this step.
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Do not disturb the glass for 24 hours (including removing the suction cup if you used one).
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Install red Service Port plug on back of light using a small amount of blue thread locker.
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Don't forget the oring under this screw.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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댓글 2개
Excellent work, thank you
Is there a way to modify a Supernova to run on a 12v battery and eliminate all the other wires, I have one that only works with the Turbo Vado system
