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소개
Use this guide to repair PlayStation 3s with the "Yellow Light of Death" error.
Note: Your PlayStation may look slightly different inside. Be cautious when performing this process on your machine.
필요한 것
동영상 개요
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Use the tip of a spudger to remove the black rubber screw cover from the side of the PS3.
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Remove the following seven screws:
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Six 52 mm Phillips screws
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One 30 mm Phillips screw
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Lift the top cover from its rear edge and rotate it toward the front of the PS3.
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Remove the top cover.
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There is a plastic hook located in a hole on the top back right hand side corner. Carefully push the plastic hook a bit from the rear of the machine with a spudger to release the rear right of the casing.
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Pull the control board ribbon cable straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
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While lightly pulling the rear cover away from the logic board assembly, use the flat end of a spudger to release the clips along the top and bottom edges of the rear cover.
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De-route the fan cables from the plastic finger molded into the heat sink.
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Disconnect the fan from the motherboard.
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Flip up the retaining flap on the Blu-ray ribbon cable socket.
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Remove the Blu-ray ribbon cable.
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Using the flat end of the spudger, remove the old thermal paste off the CPU and GPU on the motherboard.
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Using a cleaner such as Arctic Silver's ArctiClean or high alcohol content rubbing alcohol, clean the CPU and GPU.
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If you have not applied thermal paste before you can check our thermal paste guide whilst it is cooling.
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Apply a thin bead of thermal paste on the CPU.
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Using the thermal paste spreader card, spread the paste out thinly and evenly on the chip.
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In the same way, apply a thin layer of thermal paste on the GPU.
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Clean up any excess thermal paste off the motherboard.
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댓글 224개
Done this twice, first time it lasted 2 weeks and the second time 10 days. I'll do it one more time and if it goes again, I think I'll be buying a new console.
Great repair guide, clear and simple -I don't know why it's rated as difficult -there's no soldering or wiring to do.
great repaier guiad
hamza -
I completed this repair last night. It wasn't as hard as I thought, though it did take me almost 3 hours to accomplish. My PS3 is back up and running, and the fan is so guiet not I can hardly hear it.
I will add that these pictures provided are from a 60GB launch PS3. I have an 80GB (MGS4 Bundle), and some of the inner workings are a little different. The card reader remains attached to the upper casing, and the ground wire for the A/C switch is run under the power supply... as opposed to over it as it is in this guide.
Overall, this is a great guide and the kit was a great price. I hope my PS3 will remain operational at least through Christmas... I've got my eye on the UC3 Bundle; )
This is an excellent guide! I've had the YLOD before about a year ago, and my brother shipped it off to get it fixed for me (his COD:MW2 was stuck inside). It cost him $150 to get it repaired because the warranty had run out. While it did work for an entire year after the repair (which is very surprising with most people saying theirs only worked for about a month after getting it fixed), I definitely don't think all that money was worth it. I am extremely pleased that I was able to fix it myself with absolutely no cost to me (I borrowed a heat gun and thermal paste from a friend). No cost is way better than $150 obviously. I do intend to sell my PS3 to Gamestop though and buy a new slim, which I hear is less likely to get the YLOD due to better cooling. I will most likely open it up at replace the thermal paste though, as I've heard the paste Sony uses is very cheap, along with a few modifications for better cooling.
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Long story short, this guide just saved me $150 dollars. Also, my PS3 is the 60GB backwards compatible if that is of interest to anyone.
