소개
This type of electric heater is sold in various variants and under different brand names. If they fail, it's usually the thermal cutout. This is quite easy to replace.
필요한 것
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I have encountered this type of stove broken a number of times; each time the thermal fuse had blown.
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This is from Intergamma BV, the turbo convector heater 471116 B07/13, but there are a number of comparable models with the same problem, for example the Tristar KA-5911.
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The manufacturer of the Tristar said on inquiry that the thermal fuse should be rated at 157°C.
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The thermal protection is located at the bottom of the radiator, usually if it has burned out its value can no longer be read.
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Opening is a little different for every stove, but not difficult. Usually you need to unscrew two or four screws under the legs; some require straightening of some thin steel tabs that connect two plates together.
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The broken thermal protection can be cut loose, and the new one can be soldered in.
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댓글 3개
Beste Pieter, ook ik heb de zekering vervangen. Ik kon de waarde nog wel lezen 157 graden
Wat mij opvalt is dat na vervanging de zekering er sneller kapot gaat.
Voor de zekering zit bij mijn kachel nog een soort schakelaar die bij hitte moet opengaan. Ook een zekering maar als deze afkoelt doet hij het
weer.
Wij hebben 4 kacheltjes in huis en wat opvalt is dat als de termische kapot gaat de andere schakelaar dicht dit (oxide)
Klopt dit en is zo'n schakelaar te vervangen.
Zijn er termische zekeringen die blokkeren maar daarna (na afkoeling) het weer doen, En ik bedoel dan niet de mechanische.
I have no experience with these, but apparently there are thermal switches that do so; one I found is https://www.limitor.com/en/products/prot...
which is available for 150°C.
They may not be able to handle the current though.
I haven't seen the switch you mention; can you post a picture?
