이 버전에는 잘못된 편집 사항이 있을 수 있습니다. 최신 확인된 스냅샷으로 전환하십시오.
필요한 것
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:iMac Intel 27" Cardboard Service Wedge$4.99
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자유롭게 움직이는 힌지로 인한 iMac 불균형은 작업을 어렵게 합니다. 수리는 iMac을 눕혀 놓고 완료할 수 있지만 iMac 서비스 웨지를 사용하면 수리를 더욱 빠르고 수월하게 할 수 있습니다.
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iFixit 카드 보드 서비스 웨지를 사용하는 경우, 다음 어셈블리 지침에 따라 조립하세요.
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하단 가장자리 디스플레이 접착 스트립 중 하나의 끝에 있는 작은 탭을 잡아서 iMac 상단을 향해 당기며 제거하세요.
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다른 접착 스트립에 이 단계를 반복하여 제거하세요.
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디스플레이를 프레임에서 들어 올려 iMac에서 분리하세요. 평평하고 부드러운 표면에 디스플레이를 엎어 놓으세요.
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나머지 접착제를 벗기기 위해서 한면을 천천히 들어 올려야 할 수도 있습니다.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the nine 3.2 mm screws securing the support bracket.
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You may need to peel up the display adhesive lining the bottom edge of the iMac enclosure to access the screws.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the lower support bracket (a.k.a. "chin strap") from the iMac enclosure.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Unplug the left speaker cable by pulling it straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
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De-route the cable from the gap between the hard drive and logic board.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5 inches).
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Lift the left speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.
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Push from the connector end as you pull from the speaker end to thread the cable under the hard drive's right bracket.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove two 7.3 mm T8 screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together.
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Tilt the left side up away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left.
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Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the following four screws securing the power supply to the rear case (size T8 or T10 depending on the exact model):
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Two 23.7 mm Torx screws
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Two 7.3 mm Torx screws
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Move the power supply board towards the left edge of the case and up to free it from the notch in the logic board.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Depress the tab on the DC power cable connector, then pull it straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Flip the top of the power supply towards you, like opening a mailbox, to reveal the AC inlet cable connector.
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Disconnect the AC inlet cable connector.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Gently rock the right speaker slightly to the right, to allow access to its cable's connection on the logic board.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use a spudger to loosen the right speaker cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Pull the connector to the right to remove it from its socket.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the fan cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Peel the black tape connecting the fan to the exhaust duct back slightly.
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Leave the tape in place on the exhaust duct—you only need to expose the joint to free the fan.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 4 mm screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth antenna cables.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use the point of a spudger to disconnect each of the four antenna connectors from the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
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Leftmost
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Top
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Upper right
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Lower right
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the iSight camera cable.
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Pull the camera cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Gently push the cable out of the way.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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Use tweezers to gently pull the microphone ribbon cable straight out of its socket.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the following screws securing the logic board:
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Two 23.7 mm T8 screws
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One 20.1 mm T25 spacer screw
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One 17.6 mm T8 screw
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One 7.2 mm T8 screw
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Three 7.1 mm T8 screws
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One captive T8 screw
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Pull the hard drive SATA cable and connector through the right hard drive bracket. Move the cable to the right side of the iMac, out of the way of the exhaust port.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use a T8 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 5.6 mm screws from the top of the heat sink exhaust duct.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Tilt the logic board slightly forward.
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Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac. Be careful not to snag it on any of the screw posts attached to the inside of the rear case.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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When reassembling your iMac, be very careful to align the exterior I/O ports correctly. The logic board can sit crooked even when secured with all its screws.
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You can use a USB flashdrive or ethernet cable to ensure the logic board is seated correctly while you screw it in.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Pull up on the SATA power cable connector to disconnect it.
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Unplug the SATA data cable connector by depressing its locking tab and pulling straight up on the connector.
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Remove the SATA cable from the logic board assembly to get it out of the way and prevent it from being damaged.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Lift the end of the SSD up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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다른 39명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
댓글 9개
is there any way to replace the I.O without swapping the motherboard?
From cutting through the adhesive to the smoke test this was just under a four hour job for me. One adhesive strip left a complete layer of glue on one side of the screen, and it took me the better part of an hour, about half my supply of wipes, and a plastic razor blade just to clean that one edge up. I’d break the time down as: removing, cleaning, or reapplying adhesives, 2 hours; non-adhesive disassembly, 50 minutes; reassembly, 40 minutes; “oh crap, where’s that tool?” 15 minutes; and about 10 minutes for cleanup, including vacuuming out the fan, heat sink, and vents.
Hi there, I need your professional help. I followed all instructions to change my iMac 2017 27" 5K fusion drive with a Samsung EVO 970 PLUS 2TB (with upgraded firmware) for macOS bootable drive and extra EVO 860 SSD 4TB data drive. Then updated to Monterey. My first test was 1200w 2900r, which was different from the youtube video which was roughly 3Krw. Why was that? Then after a few days of work, the mac froze during youtube watch and again during excel spreadsheet, and restarted with a "?" in a folder. I made an online hardware check all OK, then performed first aid, and again all OK. Then rebooted to the same "?" screen. And then rebooted again and now it works. So far! I see in the system prefs - Link Width x1. I made the speed test again and the reading now is roughly 700rw. Screenshots and sys error report bellow. What have I done wrong? And what to do to fix it all? Thanks!
Peter Lane - 답글
Did anyone already thought or experienced to just cut out a square at the back of the frame? its not elegant but my imacs back just faces the wall :) for thermal reasons i can imagine just to stick it back.
It's a shame Apple couldn't manage to put this on the front of the logic board--such a pain (by design).