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소개

Follow the steps in this guide to upgrade or replace the hard drive in the iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2889. Note that if you are upgrading your drive, you will need to clone your existing hard drive onto the replacement prior to performing this upgrade to keep your files and operating system.

    • With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs are fast and easy with an iMac service wedge, but can be completed without one.

    • If you are using the iFixit cardboard service wedge, follow these assembly directions to put it together.

    • Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.

    • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

    The wedge is an extremely tight fit for this model. I was worried that the amount of force needed to use it as shown might damage the stand, so I used it with the long side down instead. It worked fine that way and didn’t need anywhere near as much force to insert.

    roberttrevellyan - 답글

    Here are a couple tips from me:

    1) Expose the adhesive to extreme temperatures. I did this by transporting my iMac in my car, screen-down on a piece of cardboard on a cold February morning (in Chicago). When I went to pick up the iMac, the screen practically fell off the chassis. I would have been distraught by this if I hadn’t already planned this replacement. So it was a happy accident.

    2) Remember to expell the residual power from the power supply by pushing the power button while the iMac is unplugged. This does NOT guarantee it’s safe to touch, but when I accidentally brushed the solder and exposed capacitors, I didn’t get shocked.

    jerrid_foiles - 답글

    Instead of using the wedge, I placed the iMac faced up with the top side (web cam) facing me while I ran the pizza roller around. It worked out great!

    Sam Fung - 답글

    “All iMacs also come with a traditional hard drive” mine doesn’t!! it’s HDD bay is completely empty, no SATA cable or anything. I guess I’ll have to upgrade the PCIe SSD instead.

    Chris Hughes - 답글

    There is no replacement glass for this model, it is part of the LCD and impossible to remove or replace- the entire LCD has to be replaced unfortunately if the glass is cracked or damaged. You will have to Google search for a replacement. Also be careful with some of the lock tight tork screws as I broke one of my screw mounts taking one out.

    Phil Tesone - 답글

    I used this service wedge but also found it a very tight fit. The same stabilization can be achieved by using a big rolled up towel.

    Ernst - 답글

    While this is a good instruction guide, I recommend to also look at OWC’s instruction video about drive installation, before starting the exercise. Those install videos are very detailed and useful.

    Ernst - 답글

  1. Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear enclosure. The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. Otherwise, you risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.
    • Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear enclosure.

    • The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. Otherwise, you risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.

    Don’t get too worried about starting exactly where the picture says. The glue is stronger in some parts so just start wherever is easier and then work slowly and patiently around in the direction shown.

    Richard Cook - 답글

    As this guide doesn’t cover replacing the adhesive strips, I found referring to the following was useful (noting that it’s not for the same model of iMac, so the modification they mention wasn’t necessary): iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2544 Adhesive Strips Replacement

    Alan Digby - 답글

    It is very easy to crack the glass in front of the LCD during this step. I used the guitar pick, maybe it was too thick… crack is just on the frame but anyway it is disappointing :(

    Nikolay - 답글

    This part of the exercise should be done with extreme patience. I took my sweet time with the opening tool, rolling it through the entire panel and enclosure gap over and over again, until I was very sure no parts were sticking together anymore. And when I thought I was I done, I decided to do it over again.

    Ernst - 답글

  2. Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center. Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle. Run the tool up along the left side of the display.
    • Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

    • Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.

    • Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

    Erreur de traduction: "de bas en haut" et non de" haut en bas" sur le côté gauche de l'écran

    Moreau - 답글

    If re-opening a screen that was opened and re-attached using iFixit’s adhesive strips, I would strongly recommend heating it first with an iOpener, heat gun or hair dryer. 20 minutes after attaching with the iFixit adhesive I tried to open it again with the pizza slicer to fix something and cracked the screen on the left-hand side.

    plasticpool - 답글

  3. Continue running the tool up around the top left corner. Continue running the tool up around the top left corner. Continue running the tool up around the top left corner.
    • Continue running the tool up around the top left corner.

  4. Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display. Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.
    • Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

  5. Continue along the top of the display. You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.
    • Continue along the top of the display.

    • You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

    In this step can I cut along the display without make any damage to the front camera?

    arisnordico - 답글

    Hi! Actually - there is no need to cut the tape around the camera area - there is no tape to cut at all! And so, the way go is easy - just pass 10 mm to the left and to the right from camera and start cutting!

    P.S. Just did the whole procedure to replace a RAM and to add SSD on PSIe an hour ago! Seems to be different reading the instructions... you know - 2/10 and so on. But it's really not that hard, trust me. I'll give it 5/10.

    P.P.S. By the way there is one trick to pass the difficult steps. Any action which requires pulling smth (motherboard, speaker, power supply unit) from the narrow crack (or should i say - slit?) at the bottom of your Imac is really not so easy.

    And the trick is to first remove a thin metal stripe with some kind of insulation on it which held by 5 small (very small!!) screws at the bottom of your Imac. After you done it - it's easy to pull everything! Pay attention to the fact that one of this 5 screws at the center are more shortly than others.

    dv1977 - 답글

    After doing the replacement the adhesive still sticks quite good enough to hold the screen in place. Maybe this isn't rock-solid, but enough for me.

    Mirko - 답글

    I did all steps like this manuell but now the Display wont work only some colered strips are to see! Whats happend??

    Can anybody help me ? Maybe the connector cable is broken?

    djfanta - 답글

    Check both connectors, probably one of them not seated well

    pzhivulin -

    You can add a SATA SSD if you already have a PCIe SSD Factory?

    kaserlik - 답글

    If you're changing cracked EMC 2638 display to new assembly, there's two more steps:

    Step 24: Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

    Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the display assembly.

    Step 25: Use the tip of a spudger to unplug bracket of the thermal sensor small cable near display data cable.

    Carefully remove scotch tape covering thermal sensor. Using iSesamo or flat tip of the spudger carefully peel the thermal sensor away.

    pzhivulin - 답글

    omg - forgot to switch the termal sensor from the old display...

    now fan runs like crazy...

    Andrei Balotescu -

    The key thing is to never put any force on the opening tool when working through the tape. Just roll it back and forth with ease.

    Ernst - 답글

  6. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.
    • Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

  7. Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display. Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.
    • Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

  8. Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display. At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.
    • Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

    • At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

    Yes, do it many times to loosen the adhesive.

    Noah Ralston - 답글

  9. While the opening tool cut most of the adhesive, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive. Set the iMac face-up on a table. Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, wedge a plastic card between the display and frame.
    • While the opening tool cut most of the adhesive, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.

    • Set the iMac face-up on a table.

    • Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, wedge a plastic card between the display and frame.

    • Be careful not to insert the plastic card more than 3/8", or you may damage internal components.

    this step is extremely important NOT to stick in the cards too far….. doing so, you risk a 600 euro replacement as I experienced………

    Edgar Broekema - 답글

    I drew a 3/8” line on my cards with a marker first.

    Max Romano - 답글

    I’m reading this on the EU store, please change all measurements to cm/mm.

    Morgana Devina - 답글

    @ifixit The next batch of cards you create should have a line printed on the card 3/8” in from the edges. Would make a nice reference.

    Richard Giratd - 답글

    Here’s where OWC provides glass removal suction cups, which is a better solution than plastic cards.

    The suction cups help to easily lift the glass panel, without risking the damaging of any internal wiring that the plastic cards could cause.

    Ernst - 답글

    Better to remove stand wedge at this point? Can’t see from pics

    derekrobinson - 답글

  10. Gently twist the plastic card sideways to create a gap between the display and frame. Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".
    • Gently twist the plastic card sideways to create a gap between the display and frame.

    • Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".

    This part must be done very carefully or you can damage the flat cable from display, despite it was under a iron cover.

    Cassio Machado - 답글

  11. Slide the card toward the center of the display to cut any of the remaining adhesive along the top right corner of the iMac. Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it. Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it.
    • Slide the card toward the center of the display to cut any of the remaining adhesive along the top right corner of the iMac.

    • Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it.

    You don't need to do it like this, simply open the iMac bendidng the LCD completely and use the pizza cutter to remove the adhesive.

    Felix - 답글

    Agreed. The card is too thick to cut through the adhesive in this way. Use the pizza cutter or a sharper blade at this point.

    Max Romano -

    Using glass removal suction cups will avoid running this risk of damaging the camera (or any wiring).

    Ernst - 답글

  12. Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again, and leave it there to prevent the adhesive from resticking. Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again, and leave it there to prevent the adhesive from resticking.
    • Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again, and leave it there to prevent the adhesive from resticking.

  13. Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac. Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac. Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac.
    • Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac.

  14. Gently twist the card upward, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame. As with the other side, twist slowly to allow the adhesive time to separate, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.
    • Gently twist the card upward, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

    • As with the other side, twist slowly to allow the adhesive time to separate, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.

  15. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.
    • Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

  16. Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner. Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner.
    • Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner.

  17. With both plastic cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards sideways to increase the gap between display and case. If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the remaining adhesive. Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.
    • With both plastic cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards sideways to increase the gap between display and case.

    • If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the remaining adhesive.

    • Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

    • Only lift the display a few inches—the display data and power cables are still connected to the logic board.

  18. Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connector, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8"). Hold the display with one hand while using your other hand to unplug the display power cable.
    • Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connector, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

    • Hold the display with one hand while using your other hand to unplug the display power cable.

    It was difficult to remove this connection. I ended up having to gently pull-up vertically a little on the wire side to unsnap it about 1mm and then horizontally wiggle it out.

    delacrj2 - 답글

    I had a difficult time removing this connection. I had to lift the wire-side about 1mm before it unsnapped and then carefully wiggle it out horizontally.

    delacrj2 - 답글

    Can this cable be replaced? I am worried mine is damaged. I have no display after the screen fell and stressed the display flex cables following an SSD upgrade.

    Jeremy Brainard - 답글

    This step should be done with extreme caution and care, as this step 19 is not described in great detail (sorry, author).

    The first (most outward) cable will slide out by gently pulling it by its tabs. The second (inner) cable is more tricky, as the locking lever must be moved backward first, before gently pulling backward on the cable connector. The angled tweezers are useful here, to help lift that locking lever, because fingers are too big for this.

    Ernst - 답글

  19. Continuing to support the display with one hand, flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable. Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, keeping it parallel to the motherboard, to avoid damaging it.
    • Continuing to support the display with one hand, flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

    • Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, keeping it parallel to the motherboard, to avoid damaging it.

    Cannot seem to find a replacement cable for this, as I suspect mine is damaged. Can’t even find a part number. Anyone know what it might be?

    Jeremy Brainard - 답글

    I also need that cable.

    cameronjpu - 답글

  20. Lift the display up to a near-vertical position. At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.
    • Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

    • At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

    The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

    Andrew Stephens - 답글

    Yes, use the tabs as Andrew indicates. Super easy.

    Michael Adams - 답글

  21. If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip. If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.
    • If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.

  22. Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side to peel against the remaining adhesive. Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass.
    • Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac.

    • It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side to peel against the remaining adhesive.

    • Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass.

    • After the adhesive is cut, it cannot be used to re-seal the display in place. Follow this guide to replace the adhesive strips that secure the display to the rear enclosure.

    The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

    Andrew Stephens - 답글

    Andrew, FTW! This worked perfectly

    Megan O'Leary - 답글

  23. Remove the following T10 Torx screws securing the hard drive brackets to the iMac:
    • Remove the following T10 Torx screws securing the hard drive brackets to the iMac:

    • Two 21 mm screws

    • One 9 mm screw

    • One 27 mm screw

    At step 26, when reassembling, it's super easy to over-tighten the 9mm screw and strip the brass ferrule out of its hole in the plastic bracket (%#*@).

    roberttrevellyan - 답글

    Mine has 4 different length screws, the two red colored 21mm screws in this guide are actually two differ lengths

    anonymous 523 - 답글

    Mi imac does not have a HDrive whats the steps to follow?

    Charlie - 답글

  24. Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac. Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac.
    • Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac.

  25. Lift the hard drive from the edge nearest the logic board and pull it slightly out of its recess. The hard drive is still attached by its SATA cable; do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac yet. The hard drive is still attached by its SATA cable; do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac yet.
    • Lift the hard drive from the edge nearest the logic board and pull it slightly out of its recess.

    • The hard drive is still attached by its SATA cable; do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac yet.

  26. Use a spudger to disconnect the single SATA cable by prying it gently away from the hard drive. Remove the hard drive assembly from the iMac. Remove the hard drive assembly from the iMac.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the single SATA cable by prying it gently away from the hard drive.

    • Remove the hard drive assembly from the iMac.

    I’ve found that loosening the T10 screws on the enclosure to the left helps give some room to remove and reinstall the drive. Otherwise reattaching the SATA cable can be a hassle.

    rothgar - 답글

  27. Peel the rubber bumper off one side of the hard drive. Repeat for the other side. When installing a new drive, it's helpful to use double-sided tape to stick the bumpers to your new drive.
    • Peel the rubber bumper off one side of the hard drive.

    • Repeat for the other side.

    • When installing a new drive, it's helpful to use double-sided tape to stick the bumpers to your new drive.

    reconnecting the new drive can be a little tricky as the sata connector in the Mac is hard to align. I found that it helps to move the end of the bumpers out of the way, then push them back into position once the drive is connected.

    Gareth Jones - 답글

    thats what it did as well, thx for the hint. also i used a plastic spudger to reconnect the plug unto the new drive and leveled it against the speaker casing thats so close to the drive bay

    Stef999 - 답글

    Can I install a Samsung 850 EVO 500GB to replace my 1TB 5400rpm disk? and is a seperate thermal sensor/cable needed to prohibit the fan to run at 100% all the time?

    Maurits K - 답글

    Yes you can install ANY SATA SSD.

    And no … there is no thermal sensor on the drive. You don’t need them on these models.

    robert Seith -

    Can I install a Seagate FireCuda 2TB to replace my 1TB 5400rpm disk? and is a seperate thermal sensor/cable needed to prohibit the fan to run at 100% all the time?

    andrew mudd - 답글

    Did you ever find out if you could replace your 500 GB with that Firecuda? I’m looking at doing that. I need more storage for my 500 GB photos library and don’t want to pay so a ton for the SSD that is big enough.

    shippster -

    where is the guide for the follow up ?

    installing a new hard disk and closing the screen back up.

    yog1389 - 답글

    The SSD was a HUGE performance boost over the 5400rpm drive my iMac came with. If you’re pulling your hair out because Lightroom has become excruciatingly slow, upgrade your hard drive to SSD. You will not be disappointed.

    The kit has everything you need. Follow these instructions carefully and you’ll be fine.

    Mike Mullis - 답글

    Huge improvement! It’s like a new machine. Highly recommended upgrade.

    Take care with the adhesive strips, and don’t forget to set new SSD as the boot disk (System Preferences, Startup Disk) after you’ve tested its bootable.

    Stephen Babbage - 답글

    I previously had a fusion drive and installed a SSD. Will there be any issues with the ssd portion of the fusion drive? I still see it there in disc utility. Also, I’m showing two SSDs, along with the 32 gig one. Is that correct or did I create something that shouldn’t be there?

    rossmueller - 답글

    I have this same question. I’m showing 2 drives but 1 is grayed out on the computer screen when I click on it nothing happens.

    Frank -

    A fusion drive combines two physical disks via software to act as one. It it something that has to be done manually and expressly. When you first got the computer, your fusion drive combined disks A (SSD) and B (HDD). If you replaced B, then you probably have an unused 32 GB blade SSD along with your new SSD. It possible to create another Fusion drive, but you’d have to start from zero, because creating a fusion drive erases the individual disks completely.

    also, not 100%, but I tried for several hours the other day and I’ve come to the conclusion that my version of Big Sur (11.1) doesn’t support Fusion Drives. Correct me if I’m wrong. Or maybe it’s because I’m running Big Sur on an unsupported iMac.

    David -

    It is also possible install the bumpers after getting the drive cable attached. This gives you more room to work with the cable and drive.

    Sean Kane - 답글

    The hardest part was to plug the connector into the new SSD. I loose the two screws of the adjacent (left) speaker and move it just enough to have sufficient space to introduce my fingers to push the conector into the SSD. Left the replace of the rubber bumpers after reconnect the SSD, is easy to handle without it.

    Dennis Salas - 답글

    I bought Samsung QVO 1TB SSD and now the fan is blasting fast and loud. So if these don’t use the thermal cables then what seems to be triggering the high temp? Obviously it’s the hard drive but could it be that the drive was cloned? I’m kinda stumped, I know I can control with software but some of you are saying it should run normal after install. Thanks for the info.

    MonoFrio - 답글

    Is there a PCIe slot for an SSD instead of the SATA 3.0 2.5”?

    thank you,

    deejaysurfer - 답글

    The step-by-step guide was awesome and easy to follow. As others have commented, getting the SATA connector onto the SSD is tricky but not impossible. Just pull back the rubber bumpers long enough to reach the connector, then flip them back into place before seating the drive. One comment for my machine (late 2015 21.5”): There is no mic hole for my model, so while I was a little confused at the instructions on reinstalling the adhesive, the drive replacement went like a dream. And I saved myself the $120 labor the local Mac shop wanted to charge me.

    Glenn Pettit - 답글

    Hat alles prima funktioniert. Leider läuft der Lüfter jetzt auf 100% und kernel_task Prozess ist bei über 300%. Was habe ich falsch gemacht. Diagnose meldet jetzt einen SMC Fehler und CPU-Proximity liefert keinen Wert.

    Kann jemand helfen?

    Michael Schmitz - 답글

    This is the least accurately described step (sorry, author). While removal is easy, inserting the new drive in its place is a bit tricky. The key here, is to insert the new drive with its rubber bumpers back in its space, so that it is fully seated down in its place *before* the connector can be re-attached. Once it is seated in place, use the flat end of the spudger to gently manoeuver the connector back into place until it is firmly connected to the drive.

    Ernst - 답글

    Reassembling the iMac is not simply following these instructions in reverse order (sorry, author).

    Before embarking on the home stretch, it is very important to carefully study the guide about the Adhesive Strips Replacement (iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Adhesive Strips Replacement - iFixit Repair Guide), as this a tedious and time consuming process. Perfect alignment of those adhesive strips takes some concentration, because you will want to have your display panel back nice and tight and fully aligned with the case. Once all strips are in place, the 2 display connectors need to be gently reattached to the motherboard, before closing up the panel. I took my sweet time for that step, and thankfully have a perfectly aligned display panel back in place looking no different from the factory fit.

    Ernst - 답글

    Here’s the rest of the information you need.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xDJ28Oe...

    John Smith - 답글

    I got a 4 TB Seagate Barracuda HDD as a replacement for a client. (Going for capacity over speed.) Does anyone know if it will fit? It’s definitely fatter than the other HDD/SSDs I’ve installed before.

    David - 답글

결론

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our Adhesive Strips Guide to reattach the display glass.

다른 59명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.

Jeff Suovanen

회원 가입일: 2013년 08월 06일

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Well done and thank you for this very precise description to access the hard drive. After that, reconnecting the hard drive or SSD is difficult because the very short SATA connector wires do not allow it to be presented well in the axis of the drive connector and it is impossible to hold it firmly with your fingers. Space is very small.

Hubert Despré - 답글

Thank you SO MUCH for this guide. I bought my iMac used from someone who was upgrading to a newer SSD model, and once I got it home and reset, I was understood all too well why he upgraded. So I ordered the kit here and followed these directions. With my iPad propped up next to the iMac on my table, I was able to follow it right through. As others have commented, the drive cable is very short, but I held back the rubber bumpers until I got it connected, and then everything else went smoothly. Now my iMac is like a new machine (minus the newer Thunderbolt ports and other newer amenities). Thanks again!

Glenn Pettit - 답글

I was just looking at the dismal trade in options for all my old apple products, and just assumed Id be buying a new computer every 2-3 yrs at retail whenever apple decided mine was out of date, but after stumbling on this site i love the mission, and am actually excited to try some of these articles on my old products and maybe learn a few things. Thank you for all this work its awesome and appreciated.

Christopher Pina - 답글

Can someone explicitly answer if the Temperature Sensor is need for this model? The internet says yes, but the space inside says no.

Thurston - 답글

I’ve the same question Thurston made. I’m planning to upgrade to a SSD but I’m worried about thermal sensor and the kernel_task issue some that some people mention. Is there a solution? This should be a concern?

Leonardo Lellis - 답글

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