이 버전에는 잘못된 편집 사항이 있을 수 있습니다. 최신 확인된 스냅샷으로 전환하십시오.
필요한 것
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:iMac Intel 21.5" Cardboard Service Wedge$4.99
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iMac 작업을 시작하기 전에: 컴퓨터 플러그를 뽑고 전원 버튼을 10초 동안 눌러 전원 장치의 축전기를 방전하세요.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
이 단계에 사용된 도구:Plastic Cards$2.99-
Grasp the small tab at the end of one of the bottom edge display adhesive strips and pull the adhesive toward the top of the iMac to remove it.
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Repeat this step with the other adhesive strip and remove it.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac.
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It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side to peel against the remaining adhesive.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the following five Phillips screws holding the lower support bracket in place:
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Four 3.2 mm screws
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One 1.7 mm screw
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the lower support bracket (a.k.a. "chin strap") from the iMac enclosure.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the following T10 Torx screws securing the hard drive brackets to the iMac:
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Two 21 mm screws
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One 9 mm screw
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One 27 mm screw
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power button cable connector and gently walk it out of its socket.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power supply control cable connector and gently walk it out of its socket.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the two 7.2 mm T8 Torx screws securing the power supply to the rear enclosure.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Pull the power supply slightly up and out from the rear enclosure.
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Rotate the power supply counterclockwise, lifting the right side up about an inch higher than the left.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Slide the power supply to the right to clear the screw posts on the rear enclosure.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Rock the power supply forward and remove it from its recess in the rear enclosure.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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To disconnect the cable, squeeze the release clip on the back side of the connector, behind the logic board, and pull the connector straight out.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use the flat end of a spudger to press the release clip on the side of the AC inlet cable connector inward.
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While pressing on the release clip with the spudger, grasp the AC inlet cable, and pull the connector straight out of its socket.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Gently pull the fan cable connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the three 10 mm T10 Torx screws securing the fan to the rear enclosure.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the 7.3 mm T8 Torx screw securing the hard drive tray to the rear enclosure.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Gently pull the left speaker cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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De-route the left speaker cable by pulling it straight up out of the retaining clip in the back of the rear enclosure.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Similarly to the previous step, de-route the SATA and power cables by pulling the braid straight up out of the retaining clip.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Peel up the piece of tape connecting the left speaker connector to the SATA power and data cables.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the FaceTime camera cable connector.
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Pull the FaceTime camera cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws securing the four antenna connectors to the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Disconnect all four antenna connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Gently pull the right speaker cable connector parallel to the logic board, straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the following T8 Torx screws securing the exhaust duct to the rear enclosure:
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Two 6.2 mm screws
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Two 4.7 mm screws
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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Gently pull the microphone ribbon cable straight out of its socket.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the four 7.3 mm T8 Torx screws securing the logic board to the rear enclosure.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Tilt the top of the logic board away from the rear enclosure.
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Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use a USB flash drive and/or ethernet cable to ensure the logic board is aligned correctly while you screw it in.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Handling the board by the edges, flip the logic board over to access the two RAM modules.
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Two clips secure the RAM module in place, one on each side. Using your fingers, spread the clips away from the RAM module.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Peel off and transfer the thermal pad from the original RAM stick to your replacement RAM before you install it in the lower slot.
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다른 28명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
댓글 9개
Thought this was going to be extremely difficult but once I started with these instructions it actually wasn’t that bad, though it took me a slow and careful 3.5 hours. Was quite nervous handling that power supply though!
Excellent guide! It took me about 1.5 hours to complete the entire RAM+SSD installation. The iMac has massively improved and feels like a new computer: way way faster than before, with a 1TB Samsung SSD, 32GB of RAM and a brand new installation of macOS Catalina. Be very careful with the I/O ports, especially with the USB-C/Thunderbolt ones: the alignment is critical, as well as the correct position of the logic board in relation to the case. Even a slight misalignment can impede the USB-C plug from fully entering the port, making it hard or impossible to establish a connection.
Great guide… took a mediocre “unupgradable” iMac to 32 GB ram and new SSD HD (the other guide… but crosses with this). Excellent guidance. If you have to fix or upgrade anything else while changing out the RAM, this is the time and performed steps to do it with. Read the others to see the variations you need to do (like steps to clone the HD before changing, etc.) but as deep as you get into this machine, it exposes pretty much everything. Again, great work!
Wonderful guide! I was afraid that I am not going to make it since I don’t have a lot of experience in such things but following the steps carefully, paying attention to every detail, has led me to successfully upgrade my iMac 3086 with 1TB SSD and 32GB RAM. I was really afraid that this RAM upgrade probably won’t work because it’s been said on everymac.com that the maximum is 16GB and I’ve read somewhere about a person whose iMac didn’t even start after such intervention. I decided to purchase Crucial 2x16GB at 2400MHz, despite that the iMac has 2133Mhz bus. I trust this brand and I’ve already upgraded my MacBook Pro 15” mid-2012 with the same brand, again pushing the RAM beyond the official limits and it still works great. The SSD I put here is also from Crucial and I just turned on the iMac and it runs like never before! The whole procedure took me a bit over 2 hours. Thanks for the great work with this guide!!!
Hey Alex, I’m also worried about the compatibility of the Crucial RAM, so could you tell me which especific model did you use, please?