이 버전에는 잘못된 편집 사항이 있을 수 있습니다. 최신 확인된 스냅샷으로 전환하십시오.
필요한 것
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:iMac Intel 21.5" Cardboard Service Wedge$4.99
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iMac 작업을 시작하기 전에: 컴퓨터 플러그를 뽑고 전원 버튼을 10초 동안 눌러 전원 장치의 축전기를 방전하세요.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the following five Phillips screws holding the lower support bracket in place:
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Four 3.2 mm screws
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One 1.7 mm screw
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Gently pull the right speaker cable connector straight down and out of its socket on the logic board.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the two 10 mm T10 Torx screws securing the right speaker to the rear enclosure.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Insert the tip of a spudger between the right speaker and the antenna cable, running it down the right side of the speaker to de-route the cable from its channel.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Tip the right speaker forward out of the rear enclosure, about 1 cm.
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Pull the speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the following T10 Torx screws securing the hard drive brackets to the iMac:
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Two 21 mm screws
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One 9 mm screw
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One 27 mm screw
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power button cable connector and gently walk it out of its socket.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power supply control cable connector and gently walk it out of its socket.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the two 7.2 mm T10 Torx screws securing the power supply to the rear enclosure.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Pull the power supply slightly up and out from the rear enclosure.
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Rotate the power supply counterclockwise, lifting the right side up about an inch higher than the left.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Slide the power supply to the right to clear the screw posts on the rear enclosure.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Rock the power supply forward and remove it from its recess in the rear enclosure.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Squeeze the tab on the back side of the DC power cable connector and pull it straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use the flat end of a spudger to press the clip on the side of the AC inlet cable connector inward.
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While pressing on the release clip with the spudger, grasp the AC inlet cable, and pull the connector straight out of its socket.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Gently pull the fan cable connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the three 10 mm T10 Torx screws securing the fan to the rear enclosure.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the 7.3 mm T8 Torx screw securing the hard drive tray to the rear enclosure.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Gently pull the left speaker cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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De-route the left speaker cable by pulling it straight up out of the retaining clip in the back of the rear enclosure.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Similarly to the previous step, de-route the SATA and power cables by pulling the braid straight up out of the retaining clip.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Peel up the piece of tape connecting the left speaker connector to the SATA power and data cables.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the FaceTime camera cable connector.
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Pull the FaceTime camera cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws securing the four antenna connectors to the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Disconnect all four antenna connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the following T8 Torx screws securing the exhaust duct to the rear enclosure:
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Two 6.2 mm screws
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Two 4.7 mm screws
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the four 7.3 mm T8 Torx screws securing the logic board to the rear enclosure.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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You can use a USB flash drive and/or ethernet cable to ensure the logic board is seated correctly while you screw it in.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Gently push the battery away from the two plastic nubs. (This puts increased pressure on the spring contact at the other end.)
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Once the battery's edge clears the two nubs, tilt it up out of its socket.
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다른 3명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
댓글 3개
Hmm. I don't see a single place in these instruction, including the parts needed list, that tells which battery is required. From one of the photos it looks like BR2032.
As I needed to replace the failing hard drive in my late 2015 21.5" iMac anyway, and the iMac is now nearly 8 years old, I figured I may as well replace the PRAM battery as well since I've got the screen off. The battery must be getting near its end of life anyway, right? And I don't want to have to open this iMac up again anytime soon. And there seems to be no way to tell what its voltage is without taking it out. So after going through this whole process and putting in a new battery (which registered 3.40 volts at installation), I measured the voltage of the old, original battery. 3.19 volts. I guess I could have waited another 8 years at this rate before replacing it! So if this helps anyone - as long as you keep your iMac plugged in, the PRAM battery in these models might last a good 16 years I guess. (I really wish that if they could not provide a way to measure the remaining life span or at least the voltage of the battery, they would have put it on the other side of the logic board!)
By the way, regarding BR2032 vs CR2032: Apple used BR2032 for the PRAM battery on these and many other iMac models, but the BR2032 is much more difficult to get hold of than the CR2032, as well as more expensive. (It's supposed to hold up better under the heat of the environment it's in.) However, I recently had to open a 2009 iMac again, two years after doing some prior work on it: beside the other work I had put in a CR2032 back then. The CR2032 I removed still had 3.14 volts after two full years in the 2009 iMac. So I don't think the CR2032 would hold up as long as a BR2032, but at that rate I suppose it would get at least 4 years of service before dropping too low.