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iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement

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  1. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement, Display: 1 단계, 이미지 1/1
    이 단계에 사용된 도구:
    iMac Intel 27" Cardboard Service Wedge
    $4.99
    구매
    • With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs can be completed with the iMac laying down, but are faster and easier with an iMac service wedge.

    • If you are using the iFixit cardboard service wedge, follow these assembly directions to put it together.

    This instruction page is not clear and is ambiguous if you have to do all the steps to just change the power supply please clarify another words do I have to remove the speaker and the hard drive to replace the power supply?

    crawfordjohn - 답글

    This is a display removal guide not the power supply guide!Here’s the guide you need to follow for that iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546 Power Supply Replacement

    Dan -

    Didn’t need the cardboard wedge to remove the display. Waste of money. Lay your Mac on its back.

    James Clive - 답글

    Die verlinkte Karton-Reparaturhilfe ist für den 21"-iMac. Passt sie auch 1:1 für das 27"-Modell?

    Stefan - 답글

  2. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 2 단계, 이미지 1/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 2 단계, 이미지 2/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 2 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case.

    • The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" (9.5 mm) into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.

    Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

    Clark Green - 답글

    A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

    Dan -

    Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

    When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

    Walter Hayden - 답글

    Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

    Walter Hayden - 답글

    I can confirm with Walter - trying to remove freshly applied adhesive is WAAAAY harder! My pizza cutter didn’t work correctly (the circle became a rectangle!) and I ended up with a small crack on the left of my screen. Dang it!

    Benon Koebsch -

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - 답글

    I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

    Anthony Zimmerman - 답글

    Don’t know if you are still around, but THANK YOU for posting this video! The video made it seem SO NOT SCARY and, in conjunction with the photos and comments and tips on this guide, was a lifesaver. Big thumbs up.

    Melissa Ortiz -

    First impressions so far: yes it can be a bit nerve wrecking if it is your first time doing this sort of thing and even with lots of experience with a 2011 model it’s still a bit unsettling haha (nervous laughter).

    What I recommend: use a guitar pick to start cutting the glue. You’ll need a bit of pressure so do just the tip.

    Once you’ve done the whole perimeter (minus bottom) do it again but now it should be easier to go deeper so go very slow and careful. Then get the old suction cups used to open older models and start lifting the display very carefully to see where it’s still glued and cut those as well.

    Then you should be done and now the real fun begins! :D

    Carlos Ferrari - 답글

    It’s ridiculous. Apple should pay for doing this. Like glue parts together to block a repair / make difficult. I smashed my iMac. FU Apple. Seriously, every product I owned had hardware issues. For example, bad solder joints. Never again Apple. I’m happy with Windows and in 2018 / 2019 there are many other manufacturers with high quality stuff. Apple is dying, if they do not change …

    Depple - 답글

    NOTE: I followed every step word for word, but the adhesive strips supplied are as bad as double sided tape. Within 48hours the screen had slipped off and cracked. Now I need to fork out for a new screen and try again.

    Not sure what to try next time with strips? Perhaps a bit of glue to help hold it??

    Dan Kelly - 답글

    Where do i get the “iMac Opening Tool?” its neither in the list of tools nor could i find it on the tool page.

    Patrick Cella - 답글

    Hi @snappadoodle! The opening tool is included in the adhesive kit included in the tool list, but you can purchase it separately here.

    Sam Goldheart -

    After disconnecting the power cord and before cutting the panel adhesive, push and hold the power button for 10 seconds. This will discharge the power supply capacitors. In case you accidentally touch the solder joints on the board, you won't be shocked and drop the panel.

    Paul Floro - 답글

    Bottom line: This repair seems to have worked (so far no more intermittent shut-downs). Thanks iFixit!

    As a novice who fully expected to destroy the display or worse, I make the following recommendations: (1) Before you start, read the steps several (many) times; visualize doing them and imagine how things could go wrong; (2) Read all the comments—there were some really helpful tips—like simply displacing the left speaker rather than fully removing it; (3) Get the recommended tools*; and (4) take your time—if you start to feel frustrated—seriously, stop and take a calming breath. Time is your friend. Failure is not an option.

    *I would add a 3-prong parts puller to the tool list—it’s great for pulling and starting loose screws so you don’t drop them down into the chassis like I did. It’s also great for retrieving the screws you’ve dropped into the chassis.

    Brad Bauknecht - 답글

    Hi brad, what exactly did you repair to stop the shutdowns? I’m having the same issue

    merinian -

    Merinian: I replaced the power supply and it’s still working fine at this late date. No more intermittent shut-downs. Fingers still crossed!

    Brad Bauknecht -

    Just completed the Core i5 to i7 CPU upgrade and can strongly recommend getting the “pizza tool” to cut the display adhesive. It worked flawlessly and was done in less than 5 minutes. No inadvertent cables cut. No display problems.

    John Fisk - 답글

    Thank you very much for the instructive tutorial. I just successfully replaced the hard drive on my 2012 iMac 27. I used a disposable surgical scalpel 15 blade, and locked the blade extending 9 mm from the scalpel shaft using office tape. I used regular double sided tape to reattach the screen. I cut the strips using the scalpel. I have no previous computer experience and this is the first time I replaced a computer part. This was easy and fun.

    Filip Dolatowski - Friday 11th Dec 2020

    Filip Dolatowski - 답글

    You are very lucky! I’ve had three systems come in which someone did the exact same thing! All three cut the display ribbon cables. Please don’t use surgical knifes or any other knife! Use the proper tool the special pizza cutter wheel designed for the task.

    .

    You likely spent more on the knifes than what the wheel cost with the correct tapes. You make the next time doubly hard to open not using the correct tapes! Hows the built in microphone? You may have messed it up.

    Dan -

    Thank you very much for the tutorial. You are the best!

    After reading all the post here I almost gave up doing this on my own. But I did it anyway and was succesful. I would recommend everyone to use the rollcutter. There is no risk of harming the screen if you use it. And in my case it was enough to open the imac. If you do not harm the screen connector or the screen the biggest part is done. It gets easier once you`ve stacked your screen somewhere safe. The parts inside are mostely not as delicate as the heavy and expensive screen!

    Take your time and work carefully. It is definitely doable!

    CONSULTINEL - 답글

    I found the cutter tool that came with my kit to work just fine. The wheel is extremely thin and I had no problem inserting the wheel to begin cutting. I follow the guide for the most part but took my time and use the cutting wheel slowly and then repeated the process a few times. Once I was able to pry the screen back about an inch I used the other end of the tool to cut additional adhesive that was still clinging to the body of the iMac and the screen. Having just replaced the power supply, and having my iMac running again, I do not think I will use the adhesive strips to reattach the screen. The screen fit back in place no problem which I did to test my Mac. Because the iMac screen sits at an angle I am quite comfortable that the screen is not gonna fall off. Also while having a screen off I was able to clean the inside of the Mac of dust buildup. I think I will only use the adhesive strips down the road if I’m gonna sell the Mac, which means I can give it a good clean before securing the screen.

    James Orwin - 답글

    If the screen falls off (which it will do!) it will damage the parts which would be a lot more expensive! PLEASE get the correct tapes and properly mount the screen back on.

    Think of it this way how many people have shot them selves with a gun not realizing it was loaded or set to go off!

    Dan -

    I think Dan is right as I decided it best to complete the process with the adhesive tapes to secure the screen. I just took some time to do a complete clean of the interior before sealing the display.

    James Orwin - 답글

    Ordered the full kit to replace my busted 3TB disc hard drive. All the tools work and are excellent. These pictorial and instructional install videos are complete, easy to use, and have good imagery. The 2TB SSD installed exactly as depicted. I used some 3M double sided automotive emblem tape to stick adapter to iMac case, no probs there. The adhesive strips also worked fine and stick firmly. Screen is solidly mounted, no falling out here. IFixit is awesome and this kit saved my over $1200 in getting another iMac. Highly recommended.

    Rick Pierce - 답글

  3. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 3 단계, 이미지 1/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 3 단계, 이미지 2/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 3 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

    • Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.

    • Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

    I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

    Gerry - 답글

    In my experience the cutter also worked very well for cutting the original adhesive. Unfortunately when I was reinstalling the display with the new adhesive strips, somehow the display power connector came loose. I had to open the display a second time and the cutter was not as effective against the new adhesive. I managed to break the cutter tool plastic wheel and cause a few small cracks in the edge of the displays glass as I worked! Be careful and go slowly!

    azaadkb - 답글

    The cutting tool worked great until I accidentally twisted it a bit while rounding a corner. A chunk of the wheel snapped off, making the rest of the job quite a bit more challenging. Just make sure you are keeping the tool directly parallel with the screen.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ - 답글

    I concur, opening the screen a 2nd time is considerably more difficult because the adhesive strips are thinner than the original, which makes getting the cutting tool inserted much more difficult….as a result unknowingly I elongated a small crack to a much longer crack and somehow, the LCD now has a wide grey strip from top to bottom….The first time opening was easy, second time resulted in a ruined screen.. The cost of. a replacement LCD is the same has replacing the entire computer….I would recommend anyone attempting to remove the screen for any reason, do not use the aftermarket adhesive strips if you ever intend to open it up; again, or cut the strips much shorter, or possibly use a few pieces of scotch tape or similar to hold the screen in place….since the screen tilts back, this should not be a problem…Good luck…

    S. Baxter - 답글

  4. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 4 단계, 이미지 1/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 4 단계, 이미지 2/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 4 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.

  5. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 5 단계, 이미지 1/2 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 5 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

    The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 답글

  6. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 6 단계, 이미지 1/2 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 6 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Continue along the top of the display.

    • You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

    what about the part where the camera is though? do I just treat it like the rest of the screen?

    Boris - 답글

    yes. the tool can’t go too deep

    flow in - 답글

    I measured a depth several positions.

    - About 6 centimeters near iSight Camera center, you must no use iMac opening tool, because iSight element exists.

    - iMac opening tool has a 9mm radius, so it may break iSight camera element.

    - Making a plastic card stacking 2 or 3 to 3mm, under the iMac opening tool, that makes inserting a gap 5~6mm like below.

    @. iMac opening tool

    ====== plastic card3 (credit card 1mm)

    ====== plastic card2 (1mm)

    ====== platic card1. (1mm)

    ———————————————— isight camera element (total 5~6cm) ————

    In my case, i got a display problem where lcd display yellow connector was torn without care.

    Be helpful.

    KWANGBOK, LEE - 답글

  7. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 7 단계, 이미지 1/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 7 단계, 이미지 2/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 7 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

  8. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 8 단계, 이미지 1/2 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 8 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

  9. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 9 단계, 이미지 1/2 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 9 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

    • At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

    I didn’t have the fancy cutter or cards. So I used my actual pizza cutter. Followed directions just the same, and it easily cut through the adhesive w/o issues or marring the surfaces. Actually used it to rock back and forth to lift the screen. It’s all about taking your time. I rolled it back and further until cut thru. The 3/8 to 1/4 inch is right, but the screen framing actually prevents further depth unless you force it further. The adhesive actually protected the glass while cutting thru, so no damage. Great instructions, but where to get the replacement adhesive to reinstall?? Should be four independent strips.

    Keith Thomas - 답글

    You are very lucky you didn't cut to deep! The plastic cutter that's in the kit is the only thing I would use. Spending a few bucks on a tool is a lot cheaper than $500 for a new display!

    Please don't use a real pizza cutter!

    Dan -

  10. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 10 단계, 이미지 1/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 10 단계, 이미지 2/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 10 단계, 이미지 3/3
    이 단계에 사용된 도구:
    Plastic Cards
    $2.99
    구매
    • While the opening tool did the lion's share of the work, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.

    • Set the iMac face-up on a table.

    • Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.

    • Be careful not to insert it more than 3/8" (9.5 mm), or you may damage internal components.

    I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

    Peter Fischer - 답글

    Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

    i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

    Edgar Broekema - 답글

    i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

    Eugene Kharkov - 답글

    I broke one too. And even if you think you did it correctly, you’ll not be able to see where you might have gone too far. You would think it’s very protected behind that metal plate, but no. Take special care with this offence to “right to repair” This should have been designed WAY better. I mean replacing a hardrive that is very likely to fail over the course of time, or even a simple desire to upgrade to an ssd!.

    Bummer

    Denis Sytmen - 답글

    HINT: If you turn the card and use the blue part of it, then you can avoid going to deep: no further then the blue part …

    Barthold - 답글

    On the cards I got with my iFixit kit, the blue part was way bigger than 9.5mm — closer to 20mm!

    I made a line 9mm from the edge of each of my cards and used that as a guide.

    Damian Chadwick -

    I’m thinking I might just use vinyl tape to keep the screen in place for at least a little while after an upgrade. The extra strength of the replacement tape sounds scary.

    Art Hackett - 답글

    I wrapped two layers of vinyl electrical tape around the short side of an old gift card 3/8” from the edge. This “stop" prevented the card from going in too far. The card really helps to break the panel free.

    Paul Floro - 답글

    This is a good tip!

    Lennart Saaf -

    Great idea! Wish I had read this before doing it. My less then optimal solution was to draw lines 3/8” around the cards, not as safe as your fix, but fast.

    Michael Piplani -

    Umm.. I’m not sure that I’d recommend using a repurposed credit card to open the display - I found that using the “pizza tool” to cut the old adhesive then using a pair of suction cups to gently pull the display up worked perfectly well.

    John Fisk - 답글

    surely the card should have been designed such not to go further than certain distance with a barrier band.

    S Hussain - 답글

    The cards don’t have any means to control the depth, its your skills which control it. Its no different from how you use a knife to cut your chicken up when you serve it for dinner.

    Dan -

    The pizza roller tool is enough to cut through the adhesive. You dont need to cut in a lot further. So the cards are really not necessary.

    sebastian.wittl - 답글

    might be a stupid question but would credit cards or state ids work too?

    John Ta - 답글

    You need the pizza cutter! The cards are used to hold the display off of the case frame.

    As for as using old credit cards and useless ID cards sure they will work. I wouldn’t use anything important ;-}

    Dan -

    No problems. I used two old credit cards and marked out a line using permanent marker so it was at the same depth as stipulated on this page. I even pushed it in a little deeper and no issues.

    James Clive - 답글

  11. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 11 단계, 이미지 1/2 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 11 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame, and cut any remaining adhesive near the corner.

    • Using too much force will crack the glass. Work carefully, and don't try to create a gap any larger than about 1/4" (6 mm).

    My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 답글

  12. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 12 단계, 이미지 1/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 12 단계, 이미지 2/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 12 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Be sure to stop cutting before the iSight camera in this step, or you may damage it.

    • Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.

    was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

    Julia S. - 답글

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    • Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.

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    • Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.

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    • Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

    • As with the other side, move slowly to allow the adhesive to break, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.

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    • Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

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    • Insert the card back into the top left corner.

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    • Only lift the display a few inches—it is still attached to the iMac by data and power cables.

    • With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case.

    • If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.

    • Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

    I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

    Marco De Palma - 답글

    I would strongly recommend using suction cups

    Luca Mucci - 답글

    Agreed about the suction cups. An extra pair of hands might be good here as well.

    Damian Chadwick - 답글

    I agree, I’m using iFixit suction cups right now.

    tanner85 - 답글

    Go very slowly when lifting the display – give time for the adhesive at the bottom edge to stretch and flow. If you lift too fast, the glass can crack. That’s what happened for me.

    Gerry - 답글

    The stickiest location on my iMac was the mid-to-lower section of the right side. There are a couple of thicker areas that needed attention from the plastic cards.

    Lennart Saaf - 답글

    This is the step where I cracked the screen.

    HABEEB102 - 답글

    Did you use the pizza cutter tool first?

    Dan -

    WARNING!!! This is where you can crack you screen. TAKE YOUR TIME! Everything work fine for me because I took my time. I was very shocked at how fragile the screen is. It does have a small amount of flex but don’t push your luck. There were two things that made this easy for me #1 Once you have used the cutting wheel to your best judgement to cut the adhesive, start using the iFixIt plastic cards as spacers and space them evenly around the screen. I used 10 individual cards of and gently moved them up and down at each section two at a time. Once I started having less resistance, I combined 2(i.e. 5 sets total) cards evenly space to allow for move rigid and stronger movement to separate the screen. This really helped me to free up more adhesive. #2 before lifting the screen up fully, use tweezers to pull the adhesive like a string from around the entire monitor. This will make lifting the screen much easier since all adhesive will be removed. Finally when lifting the screen use the cards with your hands under them.

    Andrew Phillips - 답글

    Would any of you consider the possibility of heating the glass with a hot-air fan before starting the process? In that way, the adhesive would let the screen go easier, I think.

    ManuG - 답글

    The type of tape has a lot to do with it. If the original tapes are still present then the pizza tool slices through the thin foam core of the tape so heating is not needed. If on the other hand someone replaced the tapes with just regular double sided tapes then there is no foam core to split and there is a sizable risk the display will get damaged in the process of taking it off. So sure in this case a bit of heat might help, just be aware the LCD panel area is quite close to the edge along the top three sides so you also have the risk of dating it from over heating!

    Dan -

    If not for iFixit tuts and tools, no way I could do this. iMac 27" takes the prize as the worst design ever for upgrades/maintenance, what were they smoking when they designed it like this?

    Jim Gavioli - 답글

    I have always believed that a properly placed screw can be a beautiful thing. A few decorative, but functional, screws placed in the back of the iMac case to attach the screen would be awesome, but this method is anything but beautiful and borders on insane.

    Leland Goertz - 답글

  19. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 19 단계, 이미지 1/2 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 19 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable.

    • Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connections, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

    Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

    Alastair Lack - 답글

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - 답글

    Quote - "Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility" You cannot be serious can you? So because someone attempted to repair their own Apple device that they OWN, you are saying that they may/will be locked out of using any Apple repair service again? Ridiculous claim sorry.

    Peter Newman -

    The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

    Ed tabickman - 답글

    Is it possible to replace the power cable if its damaged? I can’t seem to find anything about this.

    Joseph Orr - 답글

    After finishing my hard drive replacement I reconnected these connectors to test my display before using new adhesive. Everything was working beautifully. But then when I applied the new adhesive and went to seal the display on for good - the display power cable somehow became disconnected! I had to reopen the Mac for a second time which was far more difficult with new adhesive. When reinstalling double and triple check that the cables are securely inserted before the final seal. Sounds obvious but it’s quite the annoyance if something goes wrong at this point.

    azaadkb - 답글

    Very difficult to work with these connectors.

    Power cable very difficult to unplug - data cable veeeeery difficult to plug in.

    I noticed that working with the iMac positioned vertically (and with a proper support for inclination) makes this step slightly easier…

    Luca Mucci - 답글

    Interesting comments.. personally, I didn’t find the cables particularly difficult to detach and reattach. You do have to be patient and gentle. Personally, I found that a rolled up beach towel gently wedged between the unit and back of the display helped keep the glass up. Also, a small flashlight can be helpful to see the cables and connectors if you’re lighting isn’t perfect.

    John Fisk - 답글

    I’d agree to John - not overly difficult. My workaround was to prep the screen for re-installation and then place it in front of the standing machine. The cables are long and flexible enough to be put in place even in this state. You can easily attach the cables and continue with fixing the screen to the housing.

    stefan - 답글

    I would not recommend doing this step as pictured. The cable you are removing has little tabs on the wide side that can be depressed inwards towards the center of the connector, releasing the cable. If you just grab the cable as pictured and yank it out, without depressing the side tabs, you are likely to damage something. Don’t pull on the wires, use your fingernails at the connector to squeeze the very small little tabs inward to release the cable from the connector.

    maccentric - 답글

    The removal of the LCD power cable does require the left and right sides to be squeezed inwards towards each other first before removing, why this isn’t mentioned in the take apart can lead to damaging the iMac.

    robert - 답글

    I agree with maccentric. DO NOT just pull the power cable. Use your fingernail or spudger and gently press the tiny notch inward and towards you gently and one side will disengage. Do the same for the other side and it will slide right out. The notches just have enough edge to catch your nail or spudger. Using your nail is better as you can better feel when you have caught the edge and can feel the cable move.

    Andrew Phillips - 답글

    I lifted the display a few inches up and propped it open in the middle using my iPhone in portrait mode with its torch on. Did the job nicely:

    James Clive - 답글

  20. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 20 단계, 이미지 1/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 20 단계, 이미지 2/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 20 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

    • Disconnect the display data cable.

    • This is a delicate connection that can easily be broken. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

    I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

    I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

    Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

    chansung park - 답글

    Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

    Dan -

    Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

    redfoxydarrest - 답글

    Sorry damaged display

    Dan -

    I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

    john - 답글

    Yes, John is absolutely correct on this one. I damaged the display cable trying to get it back in. A close up would have helped and now my computer might have actually been fixed.

    Marsha Giardina -

    [|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

    Jim Kelly - 답글

    Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

    Sam Goldheart -

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - 답글

    Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it? I find it hard to believe (though I’m reading the horror stories here) that a whole display can get damaged. Especially when many of us were following to a T and being VERY CAREFUL.

    Thanks.

    Bryan - 답글

    First: During reassembly, I highly recommend you connect these cables and do a test boot BEFORE you remove the protective tape on the adhesive strips. That way you can fix any issues(like a damaged cable) if something is not right and you have not re-glued the screen back down which will cause a problem. If you have a second person and everything is working after test boot, you can just leave the cables connected, lift the bottom of the screen and have 2nd person pull the protective tape on the adhesive strips and you can set the screen in place. Second I damaged the video data cable during reassembly on my late 2015 iMac- I did not get the connector straight and I damaged the wires on the cable. I recommend you have someone else hold the screen while you attach the cables - they are fragile. Luckily, the data cable was easily replaced for only about $20. If you must do this by yourself, just be careful I highly recommend have 2 people at this step during reassembly.

    Chip T - 답글

    At least on my “late 2013” model, the smaller display cable connector has tiny, tiny clips on the outside edges. These must be squeezed to unlatch it. Don't pull on the cable itself or the wires can be pulled out. Even with my small fingers, it was hard to grip the clips. When reconnecting, the connector will lightly snap into place.

    Paul Floro - 답글

    I managed this step without any problems, but I had my wife hold the screen up while I disconnected/connected the cables. I STRONGLY encourage another pair of hands here so you can focus your full attention on being ultra careful with the cables.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ - 답글

    On the 2015 there are 2 cables.

    1. Once the display is loose use the Mac foam block sold from Ifixit to keep the display from rocking to hold open the glass

    2. Blow out dust with canned air

    3. Get a flash light and small flat edged screw driver

    4. Use the screw driver to slow pry loose the connector from the socket by gently inserting it in the gap on the left and then on the right slowly easing the connector from the socket towards the top of the glass

    5. The more center connector has a pull tape and a wire loop. Lift pull tape and the wire loop will raise up.

    6. Pull the wire loop towards the top of the glass to slide out the connector from its socket

    Anthony Crocker - 답글

    Good instructions except for the screwdriver - try and use a plastic spudger instead ! Also, getting a headworn LED light makes life a bit easier.

    Philip Sedlmair -

    Have a late 2013 model and went to do the SSD upgrade. When going to remove the display we cracked the bottom left corner of the glass (just the glass frame part - not part of the screen that displays anything). We were also having difficulty putting re-attaching the display flex cable. Whenever we finally went to test it before re-sealing the screen back on with new adhesive it would sound like it is turning on as it makes boot-up noises and the fans start running, but the screen would just remain black. Just wondering if the crack in the bottom left-hand side of the glass/display would have damaged a part of the display assembly or if it would be more likely that we just damaged the display flex cable (which can be replaced for $26)?

    Zach Tweel - 답글

    Did you get to the bottom.of this?

    paul.lynch1 -

    does anybody know how the Display Cabel pin assignment is? I want to try if I can attach the Panel to another grafic card

    Marco Rizzo-Scheible - 답글

    I’ve completed the upgrade to SSD, but while restarting my screen remains black. As if no connected.

    I assume I broke the sensitive connector.

    —> how to order a spare?

    Durain - 답글

    Did you get to the bottom of this?.

    paul.lynch1 -

    is the display assembly of 2015’s the same as 2017’s?

    zenu - 답글

    No! Apple loves to mess us up!

    Dan -

    The panels are different since technology progresses at a rapid pace and Apple does like to be on bleeding edge of things. When they do a manufacturing run of screens, there will be a few years that will have the same screen. I believe 2017 is when they introduced the higher resolution panels. Everything from 2012 late to 2015 should be the same though.

    Philip Sedlmair -

    That display cable connector is common to many Macs of the 2012 era. I’ve destroyed 2 in 38 years of servicing all types of computer equipment.

    As stated, there is a latch on this connector. If you put any incorrect force on the cable or connector during disassembly or reassembly, you will break the cable and possibly the connector. The cables can be purchased online and the video connector on the display is exactly the same.

    I repeat, if you pull out on the video cable after it has been unlatched instead of parallel to the logic board, YOU WILL BREAK IT.

    James Hendrickson - 답글

  21. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 21 단계, 이미지 1/2 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 21 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

    • At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

    • Remove as much of the adhesive as possible by grabbing it at the outer edges, and then pulling or rolling it towards the middle.

    Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

    dforgues - 답글

    Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

    David Zemsky - 답글

    Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

    Peter Haigh - 답글

    There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

    Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

    Todd Derek - 답글

    Are you sure your trying to remove a late 2013 model A1419 display assembly?

    robert -

    The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

    Andrew Stephens - 답글

    Niemals den unteren Klebestreifen mit einem scharfen Gegenstand wie Rasierklinge oder so versuchen zu trennen, davon geht die Beschichtung des Displays kaputt und man hat hässliche Streifen unten hinter dem Glas. Stattdessen lieber versuchen, das Display nach oben zu klappen und abzuziehen.

    Bas ti - 답글

    translation from Bas Ti because this is very important:

    Never try to separate the bottom adhesive strip with a sharp object such as a razor blade or something, the coating on the display will break and you will have ugly strips at the bottom behind the glass. Instead, try to flip up and pull off the display.

    Kurt Grootjans - 답글

    If you are just replacing the hard drive, I have found that it is quite possible to do while leaving the screen connected, making the process much easier. The amount you need to tilt the screen to access the little pull tabs at the bottom to release the screen is also sufficient to access the drive. I remove the drive while the iMac is upright. I also heat up the bottom of the screen to soften the glue and to help with the possibility of the glass cracking while doing this step.

    maccentric - 답글

    Very dangerous! You’ll stress the cables and the logic board connectors.

    Dan -

    I meant that you can leave the bottom strip of adhesive attached; you still need to disconnect the 2 cables.

    maccentric -

    As mentioned before you can pull out the lower adhesive strip. Dont cut it or move the display up and down. This is even more dangerous. On the lower side of mac where the display glass ends is a offset. When moving the display up and down you might crack it over that offset.

    sebastian.wittl - 답글

    When removing the adhesive from the top of the screen, be sure to start at the iSight camera location (= in the middle). If you start at an upper egde of the glass (side doesn’t matter) towards the middle, you risk removing the black background foil from the screen, which will result in ugly stripes behind the glass.

    christopher.winter - 답글

  22. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 22 단계, 이미지 1/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 22 단계, 이미지 2/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 22 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).

    • If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.

    Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

    Wizbang FL - 답글

    you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

    Thomas Webb - 답글

    What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

    Eric - 답글

    [|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

    John Warmann - 답글

    You probably had just an SSD installed and no HD, which is on the opposite side of the motherboard (and quite a bit more work to access).

    maccentric -

    Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

    Charlie Nancarrow - 답글

    J’ai réussi à intervenir dans l’iMac sans décoller l’ensemble de l’écran. Je l’ai ouvert en laissant la dernière partie collée (vers le logo Apple) et qui sert comme une charnière. Bien calé et assuré l’écran n’a pas bougé et j’ai pu changer mon disque dur facilement. Le grand avantage et d’avoir l’écran toute suite juste quand on le recolle par la suite.

    David Mariaux - 답글

    Well, I of course touched a soldering point in the red area as my hand slipped. I heard and felt a tiny “click” and after replacing the HDD with SSD etc I can not power the iMac up anymore. Not a sign of life :-( I suppose I broke the power supply. Can someone confirm? Or could something else have broken too?

    David Rosner - 답글

    I took my time and pulled both tabs slowly gently. Easily removed and glass came right off.

    Keith Thomas - 답글

  23. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 23 단계, 이미지 1/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 23 단계, 이미지 2/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 23 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass. The display has fragile edges. Avoid lifting the display by the corners.

    • Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. Lay the display face down on a flat, soft surface.

    • It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.

    • After the adhesive is cut, it cannot be used to re-seal the display in place. Follow this guide when your repair is complete to replace the adhesive strips that secure the display to the rear enclosure.

    You really should be using film handling or surgical type gloves to handle the screen to minimise finger grease on any of it. Even if it’s possible to clean most of it off, it can be corrosive over time.

    Art Hackett - 답글

    Use a large suction cup and latex gloves for this:

    https://www.amazon.com/FCHO-Suction-Alum...

    Philip Sedlmair - 답글

    I think iFixIt should have mentioned this step might be safer using a suction cup as mentioned by Philip.⏎
    I thought following the guide, holding the screen on each side would be fine, but the glass cracked almost immediately.

    I did not grab it by the corners, just the middle of the glass.

    This glass is horrendously fragile. I don't think I can afford to repair the screen :(

    Rod Landaeta - 답글

    Lowering the screen down at the end here does not need a suction cup. It sounds like you left something in the channel so you fractured the screen from the object (a loose screw?). I've done a ton of these systems and have not needed a suction cup at this step. I do agree a suction cup can be helpful in the screen removal process. just to give you a better purchase, not pulling! As you can damage the screen if you pull too hard.

    Dan -

  24. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 24 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • If you are replacing the display panel, you may need to transfer additional components from the old panel to the new one. Compare the back of the old display with the replacement display. Note all cables, sensors, and foam cushioning that are missing from the new display.

    • If there is a wire or cable underneath adhesive tape, always pull the tape off first.

    • If the cable is glued to the chassis, use a heated iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive first. You can then slide an opening pick underneath the cable to loosen it. Never pull directly on the delicate connectors.

    • Slide an opening pick underneath the foam cushion pieces to separate them from the display, and gently pull them off. You may need some double sided tape to re-attach them to the new display.

    Be extremely careful removing the LCD Temp Sensor from the rear of the screen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. Use a razor blade so “shave off” the sensor under the adhesive. I just had the screen replaced by a local shop and, upon boot, the fan was running full-speed and the Mac’s speed was miserable; Excel took 30 bounces in the Dock to launch rather than the expected 4-5. Novabench showed the Mac running at 4% of its expected speed (overall). The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the (partially disconnected) sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. No problem controlling the fan speed then but the iMac’s running speed was awful until the disconnected sensor wire was fixed.

    barryjaylevine - 답글

    Hi barryjaylevine,

    I’ve had my LCD replaced on my iMac 27 / 2013 and there is no LCD Temp Sensor cable on the replacement screen.

    I’m experiencing the same performance issues.

    I’ve ordered a new sensor, do you have any pointers as to how to install it?

    Thanks,

    Simon

    UK

    simon kennedy -

    hey Simon, I used 2-sided tape….this is assuming the new sensor doesn’t already come with an adhesive surface already applied.

    a roll of kapton tape for your own peace of mind will make sure nothing detaches from thermally-induced adhesive crystallization

    make sure you position it in such a way that you can easily plug the lead back into the mobo….not a lot of length to that wire

    placebomessiah - 답글

    Howdy folks,

    Thanks for all the tips, LCD sensor fitted and iMac back in action.

    Never again!

    Simon

    simon kennedy - 답글

    Hello all. So I’m trying to pinpoint my backlight issue on my 2015 retina 5k - I noticed I’m missing my thermal sensor on the LCD. Would this help with the backlight? I’m sure it will keep my fans from going crazy. Any help would be appreciated! Note: I have LEDs except the 4th one. Thanks!

    Jordan Shababy - 답글

    Be careful when removing the adhesive residue!

    I didn’t know it, but I ended up leaving slight scratch marks that can be seen from the front side.

    Eric - 답글

  25. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement, Remove the support bracket: 25 단계, 이미지 1/2 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement, Remove the support bracket: 25 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the nine 3.2 mm screws securing the support bracket.

    • You may need to peel up the display adhesive lining the bottom edge of the iMac enclosure to access the screws.

    These are new steps from when I did this on my late 2015 retina iMac so I believe step 25 and 26 are optional (you can cope without doing it).

    Amuseme - 답글

    I did not find it necessary to remove these screws and this bar

    James Orwin - 답글

    I lost these 8 during the reassemble. The manual tells I need eight 3.2mm screws.

    Can anyone help to clarify what screws I need. I don't really understand this size. Is this M2x3mm?

    Daniel - 답글

  26. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 26 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove the lower support bracket (a.k.a. "chin strap") from the iMac enclosure.

    No comments on this ?

    It's quite possibly the most difficult part to put back in the entire process

    The screws are tiny and the there is no easy way to line up the holes on the bracket with the screws

    Having got this far - it wasn't even all that necessary to remove this part in the first place

    Severe pain in the neck

    Eoin - 답글

    After an hour of painstaking mess - I managed to get 7 out of the 9 back in

    By that time I could care less about the remaining 2

    Eoin - 답글

    With the right tools and technique, the bracket can easily be replaced in under a couple of minutes.

    Use a screwdriver with a magnetized tip which frees up one hand and place a screw on the tip first.

    Then line up the screw hole on just one end of the bracket and using a pair of tweezers from the side, hold the bracket in place while you put in the screw.

    Next, do the same on the other end of the bracket. After that, all of the screws in the middle are quick to replace. I didn't really have to touch the bracket again after the end screws were in place.

    Hope that helps someone else since removing this bracket does make later steps a bit easier.

    Max Z - 답글

    I used Max Z tweezers technique but screwed one screw in at the end and then worked my way to the other end.

    Stephen B - 답글

  27. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement, Remove the left speaker: 27 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove two 10 mm T10 screws.

    I found i didn’t need to remove the speaker nor the hard drive. In fact I managed to remove the old PSU without even removing the chin strap. However, to install the replacement PSU, I had to remove the chin strap. So I would say, remove the chin strap, but you can optionally leave the speaker and hard drive in.

    Cool_Breeze - 답글

    While you do not need to fully remove the screws as once you loosen them a few turns the speaker becomes free. I found that after the removal of the speaker, I turned it over and popped the screws out as this made it easier to replace it later as I could see the alignment before putting the screws back in. If not you may be off a little and you do not want to force the screw back in.

    James Orwin - 답글

    I used a pill container that I got from Walgreens to hold all of the fasteners I removed during the disassembly process. The container has 14 compartments (individual compartments for each morning and evening of the week). I put a small piece of paper in the compartment with the fasteners to note the name and step of the procedure and the size of the tool I used. Hopefully this will be useful when I go to put it back together again.

    Dan Smith - 답글

  28. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 28 단계, 이미지 1/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 28 단계, 이미지 2/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 28 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Unplug the left speaker cable by pulling it straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • De-route the cable from the gap between the hard drive and logic board.

    • If the gap between the hard drive and logic board is too narrow for the speaker cable, disconnect it and leave the cable in place.

    I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 답글

    on the 2019 iMac, it is horizontal not vertical so pull it horizontally out.

    tarex7 - 답글

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    • Be careful not to touch any solder joints on the back of the power supply. Capacitors may be charged enough to give you a dangerous shock.

    • Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board.

    Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

    brianyu - 답글

    The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

    Robert -

    there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

    Thomas Webb - 답글

    Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

    Joseph Ashe - 답글

    The connector has a plain black side and the other side you can see the 2 silver connectors.. the side you can see the 2 silver connectors faces the front.. the plain side is to the back/against the logic board.

    paul.lynch1 -

    If I leave my iMac unplugged for an extended period, say 24 or 48 hours, is it still possible to get an electric shock from the PSU? Do the capacitors eventually discharge?

    Dominic Pettifer - 답글

    you can do this method, or just wear latex gloves.

    Philip Sedlmair -

    make sure you’ve actually unplugged the mac when running this cable, and not had it plugged in to test the diagnostic LEDs, because one of those wee silver spots is carrying 230v, and its 6mm away from the place the cable runs, So if you have fat fingers like mine, that’s a free wake up zap

    flow in - 답글

  30. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 30 단계, 이미지 1/2 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 30 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5 inches).

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board Replacement step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - 답글

  31. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 31 단계, 이미지 1/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 31 단계, 이미지 2/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 31 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker.

    Pay attention: if pulling out the loudspeaker tear off the wire of the power button, Apple have not any service parts except for the whole rear housing!

    Fabio Braga - 답글

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board Replacement step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - 답글

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    • Lift the left speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

    • If the gap between the hard drive and logic board was too narrow to free the speaker cable earlier, gently pull it free as you remove the speaker.

    • Push from the connector end as you pull from the speaker end to thread the cable under the hard drive's right bracket.

    I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

    Robert - 답글

    me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

    Alber Einsten -

    Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

    Matthew Gonzalez -

    It is difficult to remove the bottom of the speaker because it bends into the frame. Be careful to remove the power button cable, which also routes in a channel in the bottom of the speaker.

    Eric - 답글

    easier to remove the speakers if you unscrew the front ‘chin strap’ - 6/9 phillips screws that you can see in the picture hold that aluminum piece in place

    flow in - 답글

    Agree. This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board Replacement step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough -

    The trick with removing the left speaker is that you have to slide it up toward the top of the iMac (continuing to de-route the power button cable carefully as you go) to get it out from under the chin before you lift it up to remove it.

    ace - 답글

  33. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement, Hard Drive: 33 단계, 이미지 1/2 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement, Hard Drive: 33 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive.

    Is the WD hard drive an Apple Special with some internal rom or other thing? Planning to put in a Seagate Firecuda 2TB. Is there some special plug or temperature sensor requirement? Seems like there is only the SATA connector. Will I encounter fast fans? (can load the software to stop that). Think it’s a swap and is “easy”.

    Carl Schultz - 답글

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    • Remove two 7.3 mm T10 screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.

    If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat.

    Robert - 답글

    Been there done that. Had to flip it and shake the heck out of it to get that srew to fall out!

    webmail54 - 답글

    Left hard drive bracket screws are T8!! Had to remove HD first before derouting left speaker cable.

    Macrepair SF - 답글

    Thank you iFixit for sending a T10 with magnetic tip. You saved me!

    Ben Hannam - 답글

    The bracket screws are T10. The screws on the left side of the SILVER hard drive itself, are T8. If you seem to need a T8, you are actually trying to remove the wrong two screws. Look immediately to the left of the hard drive & you will see the BLACK bracket frame with two screws that use T10.

    jumpoverpuddles - 답글

    I can confirm that some models are indeed a T8 on both sides of the bracket (NOT the drive itself). I have two 2015 A1419 and one is T10, the other T8

    Christopher Crogan -

    Bracket to iMac case screws,T8.

    Which is fine.

    Just as in the next step, T8 or T10.

    Mike Rehbein - 답글

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    • Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together.

    • Tilt the left side up away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left.

    • Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.

    Two notes here:  If you are using OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable, be sure to tuck the cable under the hard drive slightly.  You cannot allow the connector to sit near the top edge since this will not allow the monitor to sit flush with the chassis when it is reattached.  Additionally, the SATA connector does not seem to fit together as snuggly as when it was connect to the HDD, so tape or a plastic cable tie to keep the connection tight may be good insurance to prevent it from coming loose.

    If you are planning on dual booting with Windows 10, the Windows 10 installed failed when the SSD and HDD were both connected at the same time.  I had to disconnect the HDD until Windows 10 was installed.  Note: I did a fresh install on a new SSD not configured as a fusion drive.  If you are planning on doing this as well, use packing tape (or something similar) to hold the monitor in place until after installing the OSs.  Then reconnect the HDD and apply the adhesive to the monitor for a permanent seal.  Good Luck!

    Walter Hayden - 답글

    Hi Walter, i’m looking to replace the broken fusion drive with a SSD, do i have to get the OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable?

    Gregorio Alvarado Sahli -

    Full removal of the speaker is unnecessary - just very carefully unplug the two-conductor power button cable, which is routed through the groove along the edge of the speaker enclosure. Next, unfasten the two large torx screws holding the speaker enclosure to the chassis. Now you can easily scoot the speaker away from the drive mount - move it over just enough to reach the drive mount’s 2 torx fasteners beneath the edge of the speaker (a CM or two). There’s now enough room to easily remove and replace the drive assembly .

    clinton - 답글

    Just wondering if the HDD 3.5 (3TB) in my 2015 27’ 5K iMac case are the ones with the temp control firmware onboard. Just got quote from Auhorised repair centre for 2x the normal price of a 3TB drive. They say I can drop in one i source myself if I like but I don’t want to get it back and have the fans run all the time. Thanks in advance :)

    Declan Casey - 답글

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    • Remove the left hard drive bracket.

    This step is unnecessary. Just leave the bracket in place and set the assembly aside.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 답글

    On Late 2015 27” iMac I found that after removing this speaker, and the Right side one, I could reach under the motherboard and squeeze and disconnect the SATA data connector with a needle-nose and then remove the SATA power connector and slide the cable out from under the logic board without removing the board. The new cable slid in from the hard drive side with little effort.

    chuck solie - 답글

    If switching to an SSD, the posts on the drive can be removed and used on the 2.5” to 3.5” adapter tray.

    Andrew Gough - 답글

  37. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement, Remove the power supply: 37 단계, 이미지 1/2 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement, Remove the power supply: 37 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

    • Disconnect the power supply control cable from the power supply.

    I found this cable very difficult to disconnect, be very careful because the cable is between a black tape and it's stuck very hard to the logic board and the cable is very short and you don't have space to move and separate it from the connection! Be patient and take the time you need

    MrSchaeffer - 답글

    I found than putting the flat end of the spudger at the center of the cable, and tilting it got the cable out without an issue.

    jimboom006 - 답글

    I was able to use the flat end of the spudger on the sides. You can see a tiny little clip on each side. Be very gentle!

    Joseph Ashe - 답글

    I simultaneously used the fingernails on my 2 index fingers to dislodge the tabs and continue to pull the cable out. It took a couple seconds.

    Eric - 답글

    ultimately the trick for me was to just pull hard enough, but that part is the scariest part. any tips welcome

    Boris - 답글

    These connectors seem pretty tough to remove until one understands the latch. Each side of the plug are two little sprung tabs (the tab is part of the spring clip which runs down the side of the plug on each side - makes sense once you see the removed plug!). Squeeze them in towards each other and then gently pull the plug from the socket. No great force, or even the spudger, needed once that is done.

    Pete Mackenzie - 답글

    One more tip, has worked on other cables for me. Fish the skinniest spudger tip you have under the cable, and with a finger of your other hand put opposite pressure on the cable against the spudger and gently work it out

    Mike Fleming - 답글

    If u are right handed, i can recomend to use your index left nail to press de bottom sprung, and a flat spudger on the right hand, came off so easy

    Davo Montiel - 답글

    Davo Montiel's tip worked for me. Use the fingernail on your left index finger to press in the tab on the bottom side of the connector and with the right hand use a flat spudger to press in the tab on the top side of the connector.

    Dan Smith - 답글

    If you have a insulated long nose pliers along with a splugger and can get underneath the cable WITH the long nose pliers on the RIGHT side of the cable, towards the logic board, with the splugger on the LEFT Side of the cable doing the same, you can get the leverage to GENTLY pull this cable out very easily.

    George Martinez - 답글

  38. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 38 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove the following four screws securing the power supply to the rear case (size T8 or T10 depending on the exact model):

    • Two 23.7 mm Torx screws

    • Two 7.3 mm Torx screws

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    • Do not attempt to remove the power supply from the case; it is still attached to the logic board by two cables.

    • Move the power supply board towards the left edge of the case and up to free it from the notch in the logic board.

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board Replacement step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - 답글

    The top right screw on the power supply actually screws into a stand-off screw connected to the back of the iMac case. Once you have removed the 4 x Torx 8 or 10 screws you can move the power supply enough to see the upper face of it.

    It has a Torx 25 slot in it and comes out easily. This will give you a lot more room for your fingers in Step 40, depressing the tab on the DC power cable connector to pull it out, and when replacing it on reassembly. You may find it won’t require you removing the support bracket as in the suggestion above.

    John Blagden - 답글

  40. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 40 단계, 이미지 1/2 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 40 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Depress the tab on the DC power cable connector, then pull it straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.

    • If the cable is too difficult to disconnect, you can remove the power supply board and motherboard together.

    Remember to push in the disconnect tab on the large connector. Carefully insert your finger and push on the tab before you pull on the connector.

    Manuel Collazo - 답글

    Thank you Manuel, this was a tricky one.

    David Zemsky - 답글

    Yes, I pulled the whole socket out because I didn’t know about the tab. Fortunately I was able to place it back in. Not sure if it was glued or how it was anchored but it seems to have a solid connection and I can’t easily pull it out by hand. Once I plug the power cable back in should be ok.

    P. Hisada - 답글

    This connector was very difficult for me to remove (even after pushing the disconnect tab). Eventually I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to wiggle it back and forth out of the socket. A lot of the cables on the my late 2015 model were very tight and a struggle to get out.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 답글

    I'm struggling with this step. I presume that the tab to which you are referring is behind the connector. I can see a plastic protrusion there but it does not move when I push it. Just to get my finger behind it requires the power board to be moved quite a bit btw.

    Dave Sands - 답글

    Pressing on the release on the back with my finger and at the same time using a needle nose pliers to wiggle the connector with my other hand worked for me.

    Kimbo M - 답글

    i could not get it out by the force of my fingers, so what i did was slightly turn the imac 90 degrees so i could reach the area better, push up (so, vertically) the power control board, push in the tab on the bottom of the connector with my right hand, and slightly wiggle the connector out of its socket with a plier

    Boris - 답글

    removing the chin strap (the front bit of metal running along the bottom of where the screen was) makes this much easier as you can rotate the board and get to the underside

    flow in - 답글

    Left index finger pushing on the tab from behind the connector, using needle pliers in right hand to rock up & down did the trick thanks @starfleet_tone

    Frédérick Charette - 답글

    Just be careful! I’ve seen two systems where the socket was pulled fully off! So the logic board then needs repairs or replacing being just a bit too aggressive!

    Dan -

    Needle nose and wiggling worked for us too. We were stuggling like heck with it when just using hands!

    Mike Manasewitsch - 답글

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first - more space to angle the board upwards. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board Replacement step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - 답글

    I did as Andrew Gough did, per other videos reviewed. Removed it right away. Just makes things easier, more space for just a few screws :)

    Mike Rehbein - 답글

    The top right screw on the power supply actually screws into a stand-off screw connected to the back of the iMac case. Once you have removed the 4 x Torx 8 or 10 screws you can move the power supply enough to see the upper face of it.

    It has a Torx 25 slot in it and comes out easily. This will give you a lot more room for your fingers in Step 40, depressing the tab on the DC power cable connector to pull it out, and when replacing it on reassembly. You may find it won’t require you removing the support bracket as in the suggestion above.

    John Blagden - 답글

    I used your suggestion to remove the stand-off and then used my left hand index finger to press the tab while rocking the connector side to side with a needle nose pliers. Plug came out easily.

    Dan Smith -

    The tab is a pain in the a$$$ to get your finger in there. I was so horrified at the size of the capacitors that I put on gloves to reduce any amount of shock :-) . To get it loose I would pull out carefully the power board as far as I could than I wedge my index finger under and press the tab and slowly pull until I saw a slight gap between the end of the socket and the plug. I than place the flat part of the black spudger or blue one into the gap and use as it as a wedge to help move the plug forward as I kept the tab pressed.

    Andrew Phillips - 답글

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    • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

    • Flip the top of the power supply towards you, like opening a mailbox, to reveal the AC inlet cable connector.

    • Disconnect the AC inlet cable connector.

    To reassemble, do the same in reverse but keep power supply board more upright than slanted down when re-inserting it in to the lower right corner. The lower right screw post has an protrusion under/behind it and the Power Supply's small 2 wire plug must fit between the front of your Mac and the obstruction. Then it just slides right in and then screw it down.

    Dan H - 답글

    There is a small release tab on the cable.

    Eric - 답글

    Wear gloves when doing this to reduce any shock. The size of those capacitors are very unnerving and scary. Also those solder joints.

    Andrew Phillips - 답글

  42. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement, Right Speaker: 42 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.

  43. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 43 단계, 이미지 1/2 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 43 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Gently rock the right speaker slightly to the right, to allow access to its cable's connection on the logic board.

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    • Use a spudger to loosen the right speaker cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the connector to the right to remove it from its socket.

  45. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 45 단계, 이미지 1/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 45 단계, 이미지 2/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 45 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Lift the speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

    Did this tonight. I couldn’t get the right speaker out. But I was able to move it far enough to the right to be out of the way of the logic board.

    Kenneth Cluff - 답글

    You have to remove the five small screws on the lower edge of the iMac to remove a strange bracket or something, like the 21.5” 2012->… iMacs

    Federico Barutto -

    Same here. 2013 27”. If you remove two of the tiny screws along the bottom edge then it comes out.

    Dave Sands -

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board Replacement step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough -

    During reassemble, route the speaker cable behind the two protrusions under the logic board. I am not sure if this makes a huge difference but that’s was the configuration during disassembly.

    Joe - 답글

    As with the left speaker, you need to slide the speaker toward the top of the iMac to get it out from under the chin before lifting up.

    ace - 답글

    For reassembly I had to undo the screws again, then plug in the cable with the speaker module slightly out of its final position and after that insert the module and fasten the screws.

    Stefan - 답글

  46. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement, Remove the fan: 46 단계, 이미지 1/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement, Remove the fan: 46 단계, 이미지 2/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement, Remove the fan: 46 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the fan cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.

  47. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 47 단계, 이미지 1/2 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 47 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Peel the black tape connecting the fan to the exhaust duct back slightly.

    • Leave the tape in place on the exhaust duct—you only need to expose the joint to free the fan.

  48. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 48 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove three 12.4 mm T10 screws securing the fan to the rear case.

  49. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 49 단계, 이미지 1/2 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 49 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Remove the fan from the iMac.

    Use a piece of tape around the antenna cables to keep them in the same order, makes reassembly a little easier.

    Walter Hayden - 답글

    On reassembly, start the fan power connector into its socket while you slide the fan in.

    ebay - 답글

    I left the antennas attached to the wifi card and removed the wifi card with wires attached. I accidentally broke one of the connectors on the wifi card and had to replace the entire card....

    S. Baxter - 답글

  50. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement, Logic Board Assembly: 50 단계, 이미지 1/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement, Logic Board Assembly: 50 단계, 이미지 2/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement, Logic Board Assembly: 50 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each of the four antenna connectors from the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

    • Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables. From left to right on the card, the antennas are connected in the following order:

    • Leftmost

    • Top

    • Upper right

    • Lower right

    My iMac has a slightly different assembly. There are 2 - T5 torx screws holding little clamps for each cable (2 clamps per screw). Certainly more secure but another size screw to deal with…

    Greg Freeman - 답글

    My iMac also same with Greg mentioned. need to T5 torx driver. A1419. Late 2015, Korean Version.

    Joseph Yang - 답글

    My 2017 has long WI-Fi card, It’s It’s a M.2, cuz no remove antenna. Undo WI-Fi card fix screws and pull out card. Easy one.

    Tanya Chachanova - 답글

    Before I disconnect the cables, I use different color sharpies and draw a different color on each one’s head & then I take a picture of the cables connected to the board. Pic is my reference of which cable goes to what connector.

    Macrepair SF - 답글

    I have a 2017 and I agree with Tanya. There are 2 T4 screws fastening the airport card to the motherboard. It’s easier to remove these and gently pull the airport card straight up out of the motherboard while leaving the 4 antenna wires fastened. You can’t see the connector or the airport card as it’s on the back side of the motherboard but just wiggle it side to side while pulling straight up and you’ll have no problem. I’ve broken off those tiny airport connectors in the past and it’s no fun replacing them.

    Mike Jones - 답글

    same as Greg, did with the torx t5

    Alejandro Piris Nino - 답글

    I have a 2019 iMac and we needed to use a T4 screw

    Mike Manasewitsch - 답글

    My late 2015 has a Airport/Bluetooth card secured with two T5 screws. After removing them you can just wiggle and unplug it from the logic board, without needing to fiddle with the antenna connectors.

    Robin Gottschalk - 답글

    Same as the other comments, in my iMac 27” retina 2015, the WiFi/Bluetooth board is a bit longer and the 4 coax cables are fixed by 2 T5 screws…

    SURIN Dominique - 답글

    When reassembling a removed WiFi card keep 4 antenna leads attached as mentioned by poster (tanya et al) when reassembling as you replace logic board keeping it tilted forward helps in aligning the notch on card for easy reassembly and T3 screws replacingonce card is firmly seated.

    robert - 답글

    When reassembling a removed WiFi card keep 4 antenna leads attached as mentioned by poster (tanya et al) when reassembling as you replace logic board keeping it tilted forward helps in aligning the notch on card for easy reassembly and T3 screws replacingonce card is firmly seated.

    robert - 답글

    Can also confirm it for a Late 2015 iMac, there’s just 2 T3 screws to remove, simple move out the WiFi/Bluetooth board and let cable on place.

    tomax - 답글

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    • This is a delicate connection that can be easily broken.

    • Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the iSight camera cable.

    • Pull the camera cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

    During disassembly, I taped the cable up and out of the way, as it tends to get in front of things.

    Tony Ross - 답글

    I recall comments here about this being particularly sensitive. I had an issue with no iSight on rebuild, however taking to bits again and seating and reseating this connector a few times resulted in the iSight camera working again (phew).

    Amuseme - 답글

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • Gently push the cable out of the way.

    On my 2017 iMac there is a tiny little cable and connector on the motherboard that is approximately half way along the motherboard and is connected down towards the base of the case. It came free easily when I removed my motherboard but just wanted to remind people to reconnect!

    Stuart Swaffer - 답글

    It’s the microphone cable!

    Koen van Eijk - 답글

    This pulls straight up, towards you.

    Eric - 답글

    I broke mine…when inserted the speaker… How do I replace the headphone jack and cable?

    mmx2000 - 답글

    Lift upwards with the spudger/fingernail, rocking it up back and forth.

    (For those who have not seen this style of connector.)

    Mike Rehbein - 답글

    +1 Missing the step on this 2019 iMac 27” guide to remove mic cable. It’s in other guides, just not here.

    joe - 답글

    I cannot determine how to reconnect the headphone jack cable to the logic board. Are there better pictures anywhere that I could access?

    Ron Owens - 답글

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    • Remove the following screws from the front of the logic board:

    • Two 23.7 mm T10 screws

    • Four 7.4 mm T10 screws

    • One 20.8 mm T25 spacer screw

    • One captive T10 screw

    • This screw is beneath a hole in the logic board. You'll need a fixed screwdriver or the 60 mm extension from an iFixit driver kit to reach it.

    The central screw is very difficult to reach! Use a long and very thin T10 screw driver

    MrSchaeffer - 답글

    On my late 2015 there is another T10 (approx 16 mm long) on the lower edge slightly left of the hole in the logic board giving a total of 4 screws along the bottom edge.

    Konrad Skeri Ekblad - 답글

    I’ve also found an extra T10 in my late 2015 iMac

    luis - 답글

    My 2017 has small flat cable and connector on logic board. And all screws are changed to T 9

    Tanya Chachanova - 답글

    Note: the T25 spacer is behind and to the left of the logic board and below the HDD bracket.

    Tom - 답글

    My 2017 had all T8’s, including the captive screw beneath the motherboard

    Mike Jones - 답글

    My 2017 had 4 T8 screws along the bottom of the logic board, not 3

    greg - 답글

    Late 2015 iMac - mine had all T8 screws and 4 along the bottom row

    Pete Mackenzie - 답글

    On 2019 iMac

    Red = T8

    Orange = T8

    Green = T8

    Yellow = T25

    Mike Manasewitsch - 답글

    2017 here.

    IMPORTANT - note Tanya’s comment. The narrow flat cable in the middle - it’s the mic cable on a *tiny* ZIF. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board Replacement

    Also has the extra bolt middle lower edge.

    All T8 except the yellow T25.

    Andrew Gough - 답글

    In my iMac 27” retina 2015 all screws are T8.

    There is also an another T8 screw between the left and central “orange” on bottom of the CPU board

    SURIN Dominique - 답글

    Just completed and removed logic board. All my screws were T6. The screw beneath is a captive screw, stays retained in the fixture after unscrewing.

    Keith Thomas - 답글

    If I change the logic card on an imac 27’ 2020, will the computer's memory be affected?

    nizarishi - 답글

    There is a 25T stand off that is not listed. It is not on the board but beside or underneath the yellow/red on power supply side.

    Tom Gordon - 답글

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    • The hard drive SATA cable can't be removed just yet, but will get in the way of removing the logic board.

    • Pull the cable and connector through the right hard drive bracket. Move the cable to the right side of the iMac, out of the way of the exhaust port.

    Anyone know if models that shipped with only a bladed SSD have the SATA cable still inside? I’m guessing probably not, but haven’t been able to confirm anywhere.

    Jesse Mitchell - 답글

    The cable was so stiff, I didn’t try to pull it through the bracket. Instead I removed the upper screw holding the right HDD bracket in place. Then I rotated it counter clockwise enough to just move the cable behind it and out of the way. Once I did that, I screwed the bracket back into place. I reversed the process when I put the machine back together. It’s a Torx-10 BTW.

    Kenneth Cluff - 답글

    Excellent tip, Kenneth! I did the same, made things easier.

    Dave Hoppenrath - 답글

    Jesse, no SATA cable inside. My iMac came only with the blade SSD and an empty HDD bay, so I have to buy the SATA cable separately.

    mveras1972 - 답글

    the card drive cable is affixed to the heat sink with some sort of adhesive. If it is not placed back similarly, the system cannot sense the heat sink temperature, and the fan will run at full speed continuously. I used double sided tape and pushed it back in adhered position after re-attaching logic board.

    labah - 답글

    the above should read “the hard drive cable” , not card drive (typo)!

    labah - 답글

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    • Remove two 5.7 mm T10 screws from the top of the heat sink exhaust duct.

    My model (2015) had another screw holding the heatsink duct and a stand-off holding the whole thing attached to the back. Even gently moving the logic board almost got the duct damaged till I realised what was going on so I’d suggest to be careful and DO NOT pull the logic board if it looks like it’s still attached - most likely it is!

    Carlos Ferrari - 답글

    Carlos,

    I am at a bit of a loss. I have a 2015 as well and removed everything else, but the motherboard is still not moving. I found the two, as shown in the picture, but can't find a third one anywhere on or around the heatsink duct. Any help is sincerely appreciated.

    Marc

    MarcW58 -

    Ditto for the 2013 27”. One extra screw

    Dave Sands - 답글

    My model 2546 late 2012 has 2 screws on heat sink shroud. First is on left side. The right can only be accessed with board tilted out a bit.

    Michael Wright - 답글

    I just finished disassembling a late 2017 27” Retina and for the life of me I couldn’t get the logic board to come out. What. I discovered was that there is a part of the heat sink shroud that is held in place by a stand off boss for the power supply. You will need to remove the stand off boss using a T25. Remove carefully and save for reassembly…

    David Brix - 답글

    Same here for late 2014.

    Jamuel Starkey -

    Yes, there is a screw holding down the fan shroud it is an angled black part where the guy's left hand index finger is located in Step 56

    Carl Schultz - 답글

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    • Tilt the logic board slightly forward.

    • Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac. Be careful not to snag on any of the screw posts attached to the inside of the rear case.

    You should add a step about removing the sata cable here. When following the directions in reverse I forgot to put in back on and had to remove the motherboard again.

    Ken Prows - 답글

    If you are having a hard time removing it, you might have forgot to remove the spacer rod when you removed all the motherboard screws. In my case, it was a T20.

    Eric - 답글

    The 2017 iMac has a small cable with a ZIF connector coming from the bottom of the machine that needs to be detached from the logic board before it can be removed.

    greg - 답글

    I can confirm this. As i recognized the cable after i removed the logic board i had some trouble to find the spot where to plug it in.

    sebastian.wittl -

    If you are having a hard time removing it, you might have forgot to remove the spacer rod when you removed all the motherboard screws. In my case, it was a T20. This is in my late 2015 the case. Just like Eric said 11-01-2020.

    John - 답글

    Same for late 2012. For those curious the spacer is just to the left and appears to attach to the heat sink.

    skiingjoo -

    The iMac 27” didn’t come with the PCIe SSD card so of course there wasn’t the necessary screw to mount one.

    Here is the screw to order;

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/283482947478?ch...

    What I did was find a screw that fit. Happened to be the case screw from the iFixit external 2.5” case but since that was a countersunk screw, I fabricated a washer for it.

    Mike Rehbein - 답글

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    • When reassembling your iMac, be very careful to align the exterior I/O ports correctly. The logic board can sit crooked even when secured with all its screws.

    • You can use a USB flashdrive or ethernet cable to ensure the logic board is seated correctly while you screw it in.

    To help me line up the IO ports, I filled all the USB ports on the back with thumb drives before I screwed the Logic board back down. Worked like a charm!

    Alex Grayson - 답글

    Ugh! Wish I saw this before. I did this mod and failed to do this step and now only one Thunderbolt 3 port works at a time and the SD card has to get pushed way further to get it to read. I hate taking this thing apart!

    scolvin - 답글

    iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, 2017) の場合、Thunderbolt 3(USB-C)ポートの位置がシビアです。

    Ethernet、USB 3ポート、Thunderbolt 3(USB-C)へ最低でも各1本(合計3本)を差し込んだままの状態でロジックボードのネジを閉めるようにすることを強くおすすめします。

    EthernetケーブルとUSBメモリの2本を挿して調整し組み上げましたが、最終的にThunderbolt 3(USB-C)が刺さらないことが後で判明し、結果組み直しをしなくてはいけませんでした。

    For iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, 2017), the location of the Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) port is severe.

    It is highly recommended to close the logic board screws with at least one cable each (total of three) plugged into the Ethernet, USB 3 port, and Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C).

    I plugged in two Ethernet cables and a USB memory stick, adjusted and assembled the board, but in the end I found out later that the Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) would not stick, so I had to reassemble the board.

    Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

    JapanWolf - 답글

    貴重な情報ありがとうございました!

    Midori Doi -

    I do this job fairly frequently and I have a small box in my iMac tool kit containing a headphone jack, four USB drives, a short two-ended Thunderbolt cable and the end of a red moulded Ethernet cable to keep things aligned from the back when screwing the logic board back into place.

    I loosely screw all the screws in, then tighten them gradually, going round the board several times to make sure it lands in exactly the right position.

    John Blagden - 답글

  58. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement, Heat Sink: 58 단계, 이미지 1/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement, Heat Sink: 58 단계, 이미지 2/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement, Heat Sink: 58 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Remove the four 7.5 mm T8 screws from behind the GPU on the logic board.

    • These screws are set inside large, spring-loaded Phillips #2 screws. To prevent the larger screws from spinning when you loosen the T8 screws, hold them with a fingertip or Phillips #2 screwdriver.

  59. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 59 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove the bracket from behind the GPU heat sink.

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    • Remove four black stickers from the back of the CPU heat sink.

  61. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 61 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove four 12.3 mm T10 screws from the back of the CPU heat sink.

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    • Remove the spring plate from behind the CPU heat sink.

    • Lift and remove the backing plate from behind the CPU heat sink. The backing plate has two posts that fit into alignment holes in the logic board.

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    • Lift the heat sink up from the logic board.

    • The CPU will most likely stick to the heat sink, so be careful about where you put it down.

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    • The CPU will most likely be stuck to the heat sink with thermal compound.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the CPU and heat sink.

    • Gently pry the CPU up by slightly twisting the spudger.

    • Remove the CPU from the heat sink. Be careful not to touch the contacts.

    • Disassembly is now complete—the following steps are for reinstalling the CPU.

    Putting the heat sync back on your new CPU is really difficult. I over tightened and borked my new CPU. Also, it's quite possible that you're going to put a great deal of stress on your Logic Board if you are putting an i7 processor in an i5 board. There is extra cooling installed on the i7 boards with bigger graphics cards. I wound up getting new logic board designed for i7 and having a repair shop do the upgrade (Which is a difficult feat in itself as it's difficult to procure Apple parts on your own). I still came out ahead over buying new or buying a used model with the full specs. But only barely. I'd highly recommend working with a friend or someone that has taken an iMac apart before. Look very carefully at how much tension and is applied on the current CPU before disassembly of the heat sync and adding a new one. Once you've done it once it's not to complicated.

    Chris Bernard - 답글

    I second that note about installing a new CPU. It is VERY hard to put it back undamaged and I too got mine bent.

    The way I managed to do it was working sort of upside down: left the board on the desk then sat on the floor to screw the GPU bracket in place first then one side of the CPU bracket one-handed whilst using the other and to make sure the heatsink wouldn’t move and F my CPU again. Only then I flipped the board to attach the other screws which was extra hard as that spring is very strong.

    Didnt know about that issue replacing a i5 with a i7 though… saw several guides online where people did exactly that with no problems at all…

    Carlos Ferrari - 답글

    Opening my iMac 27 EMC2546 due to a broken display.

    It showed me that though iMac are build with will with good parts , Apple surely goes a long way to be extra user unfriendly , like placing the bios battery in such a way, that to replace it is almost as much work as changing a CPU , while it might just as well have been placed somewhere in the memory compartment.

    solos - 답글

    Re the comments about it being hard to put the new i7 in.. I’ve done a few now and actually found it ok. Put one of the four bracket screws in but only by a few threads. Then put the diagonally opposite one in the same amount. Then put the remaining two in - the last one is always the hardest. Just apply a little pressure to the bracket. Then tighten the four screws a little at a time, always moving to an opposite screw, not the one next to it.

    aboucher - 답글

    OK.. I nearly borked my system upgrade at this step. I have a 3.4 GHz Core i5 system and wanted to upgrade the CPU to a Core i7-4771. I found a new one on Amazon last week. Everything went very smoothly until I got to the final “Then, reinstall the heat sink over the top.” step. As others have pointed out - this is really difficult. I had a heck of a time getting the four screws in the tension plate back in. And, after reinstalling everything and hitting the power button, NOTHING happened. Nada. So, I tore the system back down and removed the heat sink. The CPU was stuck fast to the heat sink and it took a lot of twisting and pulling to dislodge it. The CPU looked OK, but when I checked the Haswell socket, I discovered that several of the delicate pins had been bent and were touching. I used a pair of fine pointed tweezers to VERY gently bend the pins back into place. Then, it was “lather, rinse, repeat”.. This time, when I plugged the iMac back in, I got the 3-chime error signal, so I reset the RAM (cont…)

    John Fisk - 답글

    (cont.) chips and hit the power button again. Nada. I started cursing Steve Jobs in his grave. After a couple minutes, it suddenly chimed and in a few seconds the Apple logo appeared and all was well. I’m writing this on my freshly upgraded iMac. What I learned was that as soon as the heat sink touches the CPU, the thermal paste “glues” it to the heat sink - if you twist or hog on the heat sink, the CPU goes with it. The trick is to make sure that the CPU is firmly seated in the socket and then KEEP it there. It takes a good deal of finesse. As “aboucher” pointed out - it is helpful to insert the first screw *just to the point of catching” - then start adding the others in an “X” pattern. Also, I found that removing the “hood” over the adjacent RAM bay (remove the three T5 screws) gives you just a bit more exposure of the CPU and heat sink. I am still amazed that there isn’t a single decent video tutorial that walks you through this step - this is where you’re at the greatest risk of damaging your system..

    John Fisk - 답글

    (cont.) and it’s where a detailed walk through would be the most helpful. Anyway, if you keep these precautions in mind, you should be able to get through this - but be prepared. And, as a side note, the upgrade from the Core i5 3.4 GHz (4670) to the Core i7 3.5 GHz (4771) didn’t exactly set off fireworks in terms of benchmarks. I saw a 15-20% increase in the Geekbench 5 Multi-Core Score and a nice 30% increase in performance with the Cinebench 20 Score - so, it’s probably going to be worth it in the long run to have upgraded the CPU. If you have a base Core i5 3.2 GHz CPU, you should really see a difference. If you have 3.4 GHz system, you may or may not want to risk going through the upgrade process, as the benefit is much more modest. Your call. I found the biggest bang to be upgrading the 7200 rpm HDD to a PCIe NVMe M.2 SSD drive (I used a Sabrent Rocket Q 1 TB 2280 drive). Personally, I’d do that first and make sure that you have at least 16 GB of memory. You might be happy at this point. Good luck! J

    John Fisk - 답글

    Part 1 of 3

    Many thanks to you who’ve shared your experiences, happy to say they really helped make my cpu and ssd upgrade successful, though not without some trepidation. So here are a few things that helped me in case they help someone down the road.

    Regarding the cpu grease and “gapping” compounds, I read a lot of discussion about what’s best and how much to use. I ended up using 2 rice grains of grease on the cpu, 1 rice grain on the gpu, and the equivalent of approx 6mm diameter ball of K5-Pro thermal paste on the Vram chips. K5-pro is essentially a “gapping” compound often used to replace thermal pads. After securing the heat sink I peaked underneath it and it appeared that amount was about the same as what was used at the factory.

    Mike Fleming - 답글

    part 2 of 3

    Before re-securing the heat sink, I removed the cage around the ram for easier access. I laid the board off the edge of a table so the gpu was accessible to me working under it, and also far enough to get the awkward heat sink over the cpu off the table to avoid rocking. I laid a heavy book (nearly 5lbs) across the ports on the opposite side for stability. I secured the gpu side of the heat sink under the table looking up, and experienced no shifting of the board at all. After *completely* tightening those screws (i.e. until they stop) I was able to work with it back on the topside of the desk, again without any shifting. Regarding securing the heat sink over the cpu, of course follow good practice of tightening screws opposite one another, and like the gpu, tighten the screws all the way down or until they stop. This point was made clear by an iFixit rep who called attention to an image of the original position of that spring clip, which is *all the way down to the board* essentially (step 58).

    Mike Fleming - 답글

    Part 3 of 3

    And finally the last step, re-securing the glass panel. I decided to not remove the tape backings after putting the adhesive strips in place, to avoid sealing the unit and have something wrong and have to tear it open again. With the iMac on its back on the table, I propped it up in a couple places so that the top edge of the iMac was at least level with the bottom edge, laid the bottom edge of the glass down and inserted the display power/data cables. I then set the glass down gently and made sure the iMac turned on and all was ok.

    Mike Fleming - 답글

    Attempted to upgrade from i5 to i7, bent pins on socket and bent CPU corner. The CPU became slightly dislodged when I flipped the board over to install the screws. Goodbye previously perfectly working i5 5k iMac.

    Really cannot stress enough to take your time when working on Apple products.

    HABEEB102 - 답글

    The same for me too. Repairing the pins is in my case impossible, so I ordered a new unused logic board. It‘s not here yet but hopefully this time the upgrade works.

    Manfred Mueller -

    I just ordered a new i7 6700K to replace my i5 6600K. With your stories I will be extra careful with the pins…. I will tell you when I finished the job.

    John - 답글

    Just finished upgrading to an i7 6700K. All went well, but I had to take it apart again because the cooling wasn’t good of the CPU and the GPU. Starting a game and it got overheated and shutdown. I ordered heatpads for the gpu memorychips and thermal compound (1mm) from Arctic (MX-4). Also bought an app iStat Menus ($$) and an app called Intel Power Gadget (free). Real cool monitoring tool. CPU and GPU are cool now, 28-32 degr Celcius. Playing a game temperature climbs to max 90 degr Celcius.

    John - 답글

    Dont remove the thermal paste with the spudger. You might scratch the heatsink. Its not a great deal as the new paste will fill those scratches. But still better to not scratch it in the first place.

    Attaching the CPU and the heatsink is actually not as hard as mentioned before, but you really need to take your time to put it all together.

    Four hands are very helpful here. Two hands hold the CPU in place and the other two hands hold the GPU part. Start with screwing in the GPU side and then the CPU.

    sebastian.wittl - 답글

  65. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement, Install the CPU: 65 단계, 이미지 1/2 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement, Install the CPU: 65 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Replace the backing plate on the motherboard, and hold it in place while you turn the board over so the side with the CPU socket faces up.

  66. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 66 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Before installing the heat sink, see our thermal paste guide for instructions on cleaning and preparing the thermal surfaces and applying a new layer of thermal compound onto the CPU and GPU dies.

    • For the VRAM chips surrounding the GPU, install thermal pads or a thick thermal paste such as K5-PRO, rather than regular thermal paste.

    • The above-mentioned "thermal surfaces" are as follows:

    • The CPU

    • The GPU

    • The VRAM chips

    • The heat sink plates

    • Note that the heat sink does not need new thermal paste. Clean it, but only apply thermal paste to the other surfaces.

    WARNING! When applying thermal paste on the GPU, spread it with a gloved finger! Apply a little more thermal paste on top of it and then make you push the heat sink down firmly onto the GPU die!

    Mahir - 답글

    Cleaning with isopropyl alcohol

    - Lincoln - 답글

    Clean the surface thoroughly with 90% isopropyl alcohol (or higher) and a lint-free cloth. Always wipe in the same direction, do not go back and forth.

    - Lincoln - 답글

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    • Align the CPU so that the cutouts in the CPU match the tabs in the socket.

    • Gently place the CPU in the socket. Try to set it straight down and avoid sliding it around once it is in the socket.

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    • Align the holes on the CPU section of the heat sink with the pins on the backing plate.

    • Set the heat sink straight down on the CPU, GPU, and VRAM chips.

    • Do not move the heat sink around once it contacts the CPU. The thermal paste will adhere the CPU to the heat sink and moving it around can bend the CPU pins.

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    • Keeping inward pressure on both the heat sink and the backing plate, flip the logic board over so the heat sink faces down.

    • Make sure to keep pressure on the backing plate while you move the logic board. If the backing plate falls out then the heat sink can shift and damage the CPU pins.

    I highly recommend removing the RAM cage, it is really challenging to align the heat sink over the CPU with the the cage in the way. The thermal paste wants to stick while aligning to the pins. It was much easier to remove the cage and drop the heat sink into alignment without the cage in the way.

    Chr Paris - 답글

    Yes, I agree, removing the cage makes it easier. After reinstalling the heatsink, I was able to reinstall the cage by cutting one side of it, which allowed the cage to be spread wider so that it could be reused. Once in place the screws held it into position. This upgrade was on my 2013 iMac which I upgraded from the base i5 to the i7 (4771) One thing I noticed is that the fan runs more because of the higher temperatures generated by the i7…I would say the gains were modest, but whether it is worth it….I am not sure.

    S. Baxter - 답글

    You don’t need to cut the cage , just bend it out slightly and move the RAM arms open to allow it to slot back into place.

    markduff - 답글

  70. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 70 단계, 이미지 1/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 70 단계, 이미지 2/3 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 70 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Place the spring plate on the backing plate.

    • Be very careful not to move the heat sink while you install the screws.

    • Carefully thread one of the CPU heat sink screws slightly into the heat sink so that just a couple threads are engaged.

    • Press down on the opposite corner of the spring plate from where you just installed a screw.

    • While holding the corner down, thread another screw into that corner of the heat sink, again just tightening it until a couple threads are engaged.

  71. iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 71 단계, 이미지 1/2 iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display CPU Replacement: 71 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Repeat the process of pressing down the spring plate and slightly threading in the screws to install the remaining two heat sink screws.

    • Tighten the screws down a little at a time in the same order that you installed them—in an "X" pattern starting at one corner and then crossing to the opposite corner.

    • Do not over-tighten the screws to avoid damaging the logic board. Just tighten them until they stop against the board.

    I upgraded a mid 2015 i5 3.3 CPU to the 4ghz i7 4790k by reversing the spring plate to release tension because the CPU of the i7 is significantly thicker than the stock i5 chip. Tighten in X patten but don’t over torque the screws! Alignment pins won’t be fully seated into heat sink.

    Chr Paris - 답글

    I can absolutely confirm that! Replaced an i5-6600K with an i7-6700K in a late-2015 27” iMac, and on the first try, I really tightened those screws, and that got me a dead iMac. But fortunately, after disassembling everything again, I could straighten out the bent CPU (looked really sad!) and against all odds, got it to work again, this time very carefully tightening the screws (if that is possible at all - you just can’t do it without any force!) and stopping early. I stopped approximately when the thicker part of the screws reached the upper margin of the board. Didn’t try to reverse the spring plate, though. Could also absolutely be worth a try.

    Cirkmann Zirkel - 답글

결론

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our Adhesive Strips Guide to reattach the display glass.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

다른 60명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.

Sam Goldheart

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댓글 67개

So is the CPU soldered on to the board or not? Your guide says it's soldered but the pictures show it as being stuck to the heatsink.

dibble9012 - 답글

it is not soldered

Alber Einsten -

Can i use the cpu lga 1150 for desktop i7 4790 to replace for the factory's cpu. Please reply to me soon.

When i removed the display to upgrade. After that, i have a hardware problem, can i use apple care or not

Thanks all

thaipl1991 - 답글

I do believe the 2014 is the LGA1150 socket however in late 2015 after intel released the Skylake platform the socket most likely has changed to the LGA 1151. Upon further reading on the page under the link the description states soldered so no more cpu swaps i Guess short of a clean room and some really skilled electronics technicians. This is the link where I found the info on the Late 2015 iMac 17.1: http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/im...

Muchofmyservice -

Someone finished this successful in the late 2015 model? Worked fine after?

Alber Einsten - 답글

Yes ! It worked fine. Just make sure to keep holding the CPU in place while screwing the heat sink back into place.

Leonardo Dabus -

Confirming successful replacement of Core i5 with Core i7 6700K with the late 2015 model iMac. It is possible, but you need to be very careful when attaching the heatsink to the CPU -- it is possible to tighten the screws so tight that it damages the processor.

Aleksi Asikainen - 답글

Any tips you can give me? I'm also planning to do the same and also replace the SSD.

lprather1995 -

where to buy ?

lghr95 -

eplaced an i5-6600K with an i7-6700K in a late-2015 27” iMac, and on the first try, I really tightened those screws, and that got me a dead iMac. But fortunately, after disassembling everything again, I could straighten out the bent CPU (looked really sad!) and against all odds, got it to work again, this time very carefully tightening the screws (if that is possible at all - you just can’t do it without any force!) and stopping early. I stopped approximately when the thicker part of the screws reached the upper margin of the board. Didn’t try to reverse the spring plate, though. Could also absolutely be worth a try.

Cirkmann Zirkel -

Question...

If you update the processor from an i5 to an i7 on the LATE 2015 iMac... can you upgrade the memory to 64GB as well?...

thanks,

R

RLinhares - 답글

Can you upgrade the CPU in a Retina 5K, 27-inch, Late 2015 to a Intel® Xeon® Processor E7-8890 v4?

Thanks

Jacques Kloppers - 답글

Can you upgrade the 2015 5k imac to a kabylake cpu, for example a 7700k?

ghostlp12345678910 - 답글

I'd really like to know if someone has tried this as well!

Maharaja -

Can anyone confirm if there's anywhere to go with a Late 2014 iMac r5K that already has the 4.0ghz i7?

For example, is there a 6-core version of this chip available that would run with the same chipset on the board?

Barry - 답글

You really need to replace the thermal compound on the GPU memory, which was a giant pain to find out after having the disassembled system in front of me.

I cleaned up and re-applied the old stuff – taking care not to contaminate and had screen artifacts from RAM over heating upon reconnecting. The previous year thread recommended Fujioply 100x15x.5 pads – this pad is not tall enough to make proper contact. I read the 1.5 was too high, so I might suggest you get a 1.0mm pad. You also dont need two, they are expensive, just cut the pad so that it covers only the memory chip tops and one pad fits with just a little left over. Went with K5 after the first pad didnt fit.

Confirmed that late 2015 3.2 to 4.0 i7 works. Thank you for the tip to not over-tighten the CPU, if you look under the board, you dont want to see the base of the screw coming through the hole or you are going too tight.

I am going to try the K5 paste route though, dont want to waste another 15$ on a pad that doesnt fit quite right.

Charles - 답글

Is 5K iMac compatible with Xeon E5 v3 processors if I want to upgrade?

Aaron Chen - 답글

Who would be willing to do this for me?? And for how much? I'll have in writing that you will not be held responsible if bricked. Let me know please bigfanpod@gmail.com live in Southern California

Big Fan Podcast - 답글

Sharaz101@yahoo.com message me

sharaz101 -

VALID QUESTION: Does the stock PSU and cooling system have enough capacity to handle higher power CPUs? Can anyone answer this?

fyun89 - 답글

The problem isn't the output voltage of the PSU it's if the logic board supports the cpu.

sharaz101 -

So here i was upgrading my CPU in my iMac late 2015 everything was put back perfectly. I tried turning the Mac on and the first led turns on but not the second one which was supposed to. I disassemble the Mac approximately X5 times and put it back X5 times but no luck. So the last time i did it I noticed the heat sink was bent I straightened it out and wobbled it alittle and reassemble the iMac and wala it boots perfectly. Sometimes the heat sink bents and tbe cpu doesn't sit straight on the logic board pins.

Also when disassembling the display and are on the slat step there's two strips you could pull instead of trying to work on the last adhesive strips.

sharaz101 - 답글

огромная благодарность Авторам статьи, я сам в домашних условиях заменил в I MAC RETINA 5K MK472 процессор на Core i7 - все работает идеально! Правда есть определенные тонкости ......

Андрей Касаткин - 답글

Does anyone know what thermal paste Apple uses in this model on the VRMs? I'm thinking of upgrading my CPU but I don't want it to overheat because of the thermal paste on the VRMs not being applied properly.

What thermal paste did you use on the VRMs? And how did it affect temperatures?

Khaleal - 답글

Form the Xbox heating woos in the past: Arctic Silver is king paste

grit -

Upgraded 1 base imac27 late 2015 i5 to 6700k i7. First split de large display from the unibody alluminium using allways the appropriate tool to cut de adhesive not damaging anything important. After you remove the screen is more ease…or not, wait till the very moment you have to remove the CPU and put the new one. Its just very difficult. rearrange and align the cpu with the heat sink is a something. When you reassemble everithing you have a few ways to know if exist any problem even before reconnect the display again. Just connect the electrical cable and power on the imac. If you see 2 litle green leds on the motherboard and the fan starts to wok you are probably in the right path. if you only have one gren led surch for some mistake, any bad connection, power suply is it connected or the CPU as seated correctly in the socket. Probably thats the problem and you have to disassembling all and remove again cpu and try again…once again…it is difficult. I did it only on my second atempt.

Maciel - 답글

I have 2 green LED’s on the logic board, but nothing on screen and it will loop on and off. Any idea what I did wrong in reassembly? Thanks

Adrian Pagano -

Hello all. I hope that its ok if I ask this here. So I am in process of figuring out why my i5 backlight is not working. I have 3 of 4 LEDs lit up on the board. I have another logic board from an 4.0ghz i7 that I want to try in my imac to fix the backlight (possibly.) Can I use the 4.0 i7 logic board in this unit? I still have to buy processor (6700k) but I don’t want to go through will all this if its not going to work. Thank you all!

Jordan Shababy -

For the thermal paste ended using the mx-4 for CPU and GPU and in the other areas around de gpu used K5 paste. I have cpu temperatures betwen 30 and 65 depending what i’m doing, i think is not bad.

Maciel - 답글

Hi all,

Does anyone know if I can realy upgrade my mid 2015 I5 4590 3.3ghz with a I7 4790k. Someone tell me that will crashed my mother board?

THX for reply

Mathieu Samuel - 답글

Hi Matthew did you replace the cpu? i have the same mid 2015 iMac and nobody knows if i can upgrade the i5 cpu to i7 4790k.. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Cheers

Andrea Zak -

Can one put a Intel Xeon into that board?

Patrick Jankun - 답글

The only question is what kind of socket is there!? And what Processors it does support. Can someone explain?

Ruslan Jo May - 답글

Hi to all. In imac 27” Late 2015, i want to xhange the CPU with the i7-7700k, and a new Blade SSD Sandisk 256GB. I have saw the CPU upgrade but i have no idea about the Blade ssd . Can anyone help with this? Will be compatible eith the mac?

George Siomos - 답글

Hello everyone,

can you tell me what type of thermal paste goes on the graphics memory (vram), we see what is different color (white), can I install the same as for the CPU and GPU (arctic silver MX4) please?

Axel

Bonjour à tous,

pouvez-vous me dire quel type de pate thermique va sur la mémoire graphique(vram), on aperçoit quelle est de couleur différente(blanche), puis-je installer la meme que pour le CPU et GPU(arctic silver MX4) svp ?

Axel

asequinox - 답글

HI Sam, first I wanted to congrats on the great tutorial that’s really an awesome job you’ve made thanks for that. On my side though I think I didn’t do so well lol… I followed each steps and I’ve double / triple check each steps when re-assembling the parts but now I cannot get the iMac to turn back ON. I’ve tried different power outlets, cords, checked every connections to the PSU and the logic board and everything looks just fine… except that it doesn’t boot :( I have a led on the motherboard (first of a series of 4) that turns on as soon as I connect the power cable but when I push the power button nothing happens (fan don’t even blink, no sound, nothing). Do you have any idea what’s going on? Are there some tests I could run to identify the problem? Many many thanks in advance for any answer ;) Cheers,

fpeliss - 답글

Hello, is there anyone who upgrade the cpu on a MID 2015 I5 4590 iMac with an i7 4790K ?

Thanks!

Andrea Zak - 답글

I guess the upshot of all these comments is that it still doesn’t make sense to upgrade a mac.

Hugh Probyn - 답글

I have made the change from i5 to i7 6700K successful. Delided and applied Liquid Metal on the CPU from inside and used MX-4 for the GPU and CPU outside. Results are not that great, although typical, since others with the same processor have similar results. I get temps from idle 50c to 100c until it throttles and fan goes full throttle at 2700+ RPM. Temp is stable to 95c afterwards at full load of course and stays there.

Don’t know what to think of this: Anyone done the switch to i7 6700k and saw different results temp wise?

Vasileios Antoniadis - 답글

im getting the same problem here. max load @ 95 celcius, idle @ 36c, and normal 56c-65c. It sounds like how its supposed to be but my fan is running much louder than it used to during idle, max load it sounds like a vaccuum cleaner! I’ve changed my TIM twice, first I used Arctic Silver and it was a huge mess and ran my temps way hotter. Reapplied a different TIM (cooler master.. whatever) and ive gotten better temps but still a bit loud but better than the first time around.

I want to know if theres a better fan / heatsink for an i7. anyone?

Mike -

Hey,

same Problem here. Did you reach any solution?

regards

Fabian -

Having just completed this Sisyphean task, delirious w/ joy, having finally unearthing that CPU/GPU, I mistakenly wiped off all the thermal paste and thermal pads everywhere.

You will need thermal pads or thermal paste for the GPU modules to bridge the ~2cm gap between the GPU/modules and the heatsink. Based on pure necessity, I bought a little tub of this stuff, but as it turned out, not only isn’t there any major differences b/t paste & pads, but per this guys write up of 80 TIM variants, this $7 is conducts as well as the super pricey stuff!

MG Chemicals 860 Silicone HTC

https://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/ind...

Installation:

https://youtu.be/e9v5MDivZfc

After researching the distance between the ram modules and the heatsink, I applied the same volume of white thermal paste to both the modules and to the GPU.

Seperately I applied a line (as reco’d by Arctic Silver) of Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Grease to my newly-upgraded CPU (i7-4790, 4.0Ghz)

Jay F - 답글

I have an iMac 27” Mid 2015. I’d like to upgrade the ram from i5 to i7. Which CPU can I use for this upgrade?

Gino - 답글

i7-7700K does not work, you need i7-6700K instead.

Mart -

No. The CPU socket of iMac 2015-Mid is 1150. You CANNOT use i7-6700K which is compatible to socket 1151 but not 1150.

The best CPU for 1150 socket is i7-4790K. I have performed the CPU upgrade.

Kinglok, Fong -

Hi everyone hope all is good. I have IMAC PRO late 2015 i5 6700 processor. Is it possible to upgrade it to 7th gen ?? such as i7 7700k ?

nusair rahman - 답글

Hi, used k5-Pro thermal paste covering at least 60% of the surface of both GPU memory and GPU dye but it’s overheating and on a GPU stress test it reaches 105 Celcius and the iMac shut’s down. Any advice?

Ovidiu Visan - 답글

This image shows the factory thermal paste application right after the heat sink was removed. That’s the approximate amount you need (although hopefully much tidier, haha). Beyond that, just make sure the heat sink is installed correctly and check to make sure there’s good contact between the chips -> thermal compound -> heat sink. If the thermal compound doesn’t fully bridge that gap, the heat won’t go anywhere and before long the system will shut down to protect itself.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hello everyone! I have iMac late 2015 27 inch I found a i7 6700T is much cheaper than 6700K. Does i7 6700T is working in Imac late 2015? Thanks.

aixcel est - 답글

Just finish upgrade CPU, PCiE-SSD and RAM for my 2015-mid iMac.

My original CPU was i5-4590, socket is 1150. I was so stupid to have bought i7-6700K and CANNOT be installed to it. Finally, I managed to have i7-4790K and successfully install to the motherboard. Geekbench 5 marks increase from 873 -> 1066 (single-core score) and 2839 ->3978 (multi-core score). I would say upgrade CPU take some real effort but it should be manageable for those who are familiar with assembling parts for PC during your youth time.

Installing PCIE-SSD is easy while using parts from OWC. The writing speed 730MB/s and reading speed is 768MB/s. It seems to me 2015 Mid iMac still not unleash the true potential of the blade SSD.

Kinglok, Fong - 답글

Checking in and adding my report. I successfully updated the CPU and installed a PCI-e SSD in my “Mid 2015” 5K iMac 27. This model was released before the Skylake update and originally ships with a Core i5-4590 quad-core Haswell chip. The “Mid-2015” model is just a cheaper version of the 2014 model released the year prior, having a slower Radeon R9 M290, i5 quad, and hard drive (no Fusion drive).

These instructions are 100% accurate, since the Mid-2015 model is essentially a 2014 model. Also, of note, the Mid-2015 has a fully functioning PCI-e slot on the logic board, even when not configured with a Fusion Drive from the factory. I was able to install a 4th gen Apple blade SSD, 512GB, with no issues. Be advised, while the slot is there, you will need to source the small screw that holds the blade SSD in place.

As for the CPU, it was very straightforward. I installed the i7-4790K chip. The fans tend to ramp up a little more aggressively now, but nothing crazy.

formerglory - 답글

I just completed this in my late 2015 27” iMac (upgrade to 6700k). Worked really well. Thanks for a great guide.

One thing to keep in mind for those of you considering the upgrade - the i7 runs a lot hotter than the i5. A lot hotter. I used Arctic Silver MX-4 and did a good job on the thermalpaste - if I say so myself. This done, the new i7 CPU will go to 100 degrees under load easily - this is to be expected and I understand quite normal for the iMac. SMC fan control / Macs Fan Control both do a better job

Things were really hot for the first, day, but as the thermal-paste set (I imagine), things cooled down.

With a room temp of about 20 degrees C, the CPU idles around 50-60C with the fan at about 1200 rpm (automatic). This is with regular internet browsing, email, chat clients, etc. Once you start getting into processor intensive (or GPU intensive) tasks, things do heat up. That said, even at 100 C when it’s under heavy load, I am not seeing thermal throttling. The processor also sits happily at about 4.1GHz

Charlsy Dobell - 답글

One other quick note - I did do an upgrade to a Samsung 970 256GB drive with this CPU upgrade, and with APFS and Catalina, I get random kernel panics because of the NVMe. Hard to pinpoint - anyways - annoying to resolve if I have to open the iMac again. Be warned of APFS, Catalina, and “pro” samsung NVMe drives. Cheers!

Charlsy Dobell - 답글

Thanks for all the sharing. Below is my factory configured iMac 5K 27 in late 2014.

Question: As shared by Kinglok, is i7-4790K the best processor for this iMac with LGA1150 socket? That would mean I have no more upgrade options left.

Btw, I successfully swapped out the 1TB fusion drive with 1TB NVMe SSD with good result. Please note that I can only achieve x2 link width even though the SSD is capable of x4. It is still a significant speed upgrade though and highly recommended. Performance is similar to what was achieved by Kinglok. I needed an adaptor to fit Apple’s propriety port to ADATA SSD.

Hardware Overview:

  Model Name: iMac

  Model Identifier: iMac15,1

  Processor Name: Quad-Core Intel Core i7

  Processor Speed: 4 GHz

Generic SSD Controller:

ADATA SX8200PNP:

  Capacity: 1.02 TB (1,024,209,543,168 bytes)

  TRIM Support: Yes

  Model: ADATA SX8200PNP

  Revision: 42AZS6AC

  Serial Number: 2K22292BB8GD

  Link Width: x2

  Link Speed: 5.0 GT/s

Khoonkeat Ong - 답글

This guide is missing the most strenuous and difficult part of this procedure. Don’t be mislead, installing a new CPU into the socket in a 27” 5K iMac A1419 & A2115 takes major time and patience, due to the fact that Apple uses a proprietary heat sink that makes it impossible to be certain that your CPU didn’t slip out of place while you are literally flipping the whole unsecured logic board around to access the screws to secure the socket. IFixit makes money through traffic on their website. They obtain this traffic by downplaying the complexity of device repair and they do this with beautiful photos, clean white backgrounds and simple instructions but beware because its all BS to get you to believe you can do it yourself when really, you should be hiring a professional

Daniel Alan - 답글

We’ve stated right at the top of the guide that this is a “difficult”-level repair lasting 1-3 hours. But as I and many others in the comments directly above you have attested, the procedure is perfectly do-able so long as you’re careful and patient. If you can replace a socketed CPU in an ordinary desktop PC, you can certainly do this. In fact, many PCs I’ve worked on had coolers at least as fiddly as this one. I’m sorry you don’t like the instructions, but you’re always invited to hit the “Edit” button and improve them. If that’s not your cup of tea, fine, but please don’t needlessly discourage others. PS: iFixit makes literally zero money from traffic—all guides and photos are hosted for free, including those submitted by users, and we don’t sell ad space anywhere on the entire site. We support ourselves by selling tools, and the guides are still free even if you buy nothing from us.

Jeff Suovanen -

Just finished my upgrade from i5-6600 3,3GHz to i7-6700K 4.0GHz. It didn’t start after I finished it last night, crying :-(. Today I discovered that I had forgotten 1 small cable on the back of the powersupply, after connecting that, all went perfect.

John - 답글

I successfully upgraded my 27-inch, Mid 2015 CPU from the 3.3 ghz i5 to a 4 ghz i7 4790k. The i5 CPU is thinner than the i7 and made it challenging to install with the alignment pins and heat sink that is designed for the thinner chip of the i5. In order to get it to work I set the chip and the heat sink aligned to the alignment pins (the pins wont fully seat), flipped the logic board. The trick i found was to flip the spring loaded backing plate of the CPU so that it didn’t add additional tension to board. Then I reinstalled the 4, 12.3mm in an X patten until it was sufficiently tight. Don’t torque the screws down too much, you will still be able to see the alignment pins because of the increased thickness of the CPU.

I highly recommend removing the RAM cage. It is easy to remove and reinstall. The CPU replacement was the most challenging part of the upgrade and the cage was incredibly difficult to work around while trying to set with the thermal paste.

Chr Paris - 답글

i have replaced my i5 3.3 with the i7 4.0 on start up all i am getting is 3 beeps is there any way to update the bios

n.harvey -

Thanks iFixit for yet another invaluable guide. This was amazing. Also great many thanks on the advice regarding the CPU install. It was difficult, but the bit to remind you of putting the brace first so that’s the heatsink lines up was gold. I fumbled with it a few times, and once I thought it was okay, I tightened the screws.

Turn it on, and it ran first time.

Connected it to my Thunderbolt Display without the main display attached. “kernel_task” did not like to run without the main screen attached. The fans went full speed, and all the 8 cores were running full usage for the kernel task. I wanted it to make it work without attaching the screen, but I vaguely remembered that this happened the last time I replaced the M2 drive. It was about 2 years ago.

Eyvind Mondragon - 답글

BTW, I cannot emphasize enough to be careful when taking the main display connector off. It’s very delicate. I bent mine. The pins on the display side were curved, and the main board connector was a bit damaged. I managed to slide the curved pins in the connector and pulled the little handle back in position. Crossed my fingers and glued the display. Everything went well, albeit the display showing some bright spots at the top edge (went away on its own, probably the glue pulling some parts more as it settled).

At idle, the CPU runs at 45-55 Celsius. But it gets hot very quickly if I do something a bit more intensive.

BTW, I hadn’t mentioned that I replaced an i5 6500 with an i7 6700K.

The i5 hardly ever went over 70C, but the i7 runs up to 80-95C when pressed.

Don’t know if this is normal, but I have iStats Menus and it does a great job at keeping it cooled.

Very impressed with the speed, and the M2 running at 3,000MBs definitively helps. Got at Samsung 970 Evo.

I’ll keep it running and report back. Thank you

Eyvind Mondragon -

Bonjour

Bravo pour ce tuto

Cordialement

Jean Jacques Goudard - 답글

Hopefully this finds the ones who are searching for an answer:

I have successfully upgraded my iMac 19.1 (2019) with a Radeon 570X and an i5-8500 (non K) to an i9-9900K. Since it was open I swaped my 32GB Cache SSD to an Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1TB.

Things needed to consider: Before CPU upgrade I needed to update to the latest systemfirmware. It did work with usual Mac-OS Updates.

Next thing to care about is the NVME, with needed an firmware upgrade too. I have done it with my Windows2Go USB (You need to prepare it, since MacOS will just kernel panick without the update, or you can upgrade it from another Windows machine)

After cleaning the heat sink and the CPU, i put the CPU into the socket (carefully!) and placed the backplate (the one with two metal pins) in the middle and put the heat sink on it. First screwed the cooler for the GPU later the one for the CPU. Put pressure from the back side on it!

Then just clone your MacOS to the new drive or reinstall.

Afterwards everything went like a charme, no issues so far.

Thank you ifixit for this nice guide!

Enrico Cinardo - 답글

Is a Core i7-7700 compatible for a Late 2015?

Its TDP is 65W and fits the LGA 1151 v1 socket.

current processor is the 6th gen i7-6700K. Is the 7th gen processor an upgrade or is it no real difference?

George - 답글

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