이 번역은 원본 안내서의 최신 업데이트를 반영하지 않을 수 있습니다. 번역 업데이트를 돕거나 아니면 원본 안내서 보기를 참조하세요.
소개
이 안내서를 사용하여 번아웃된 LCD 및/또는 백라이트를 교체하세요.
필요한 것
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Insert a metal spudger between the right edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.
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Rotate the spudger away from you to release the tabs along the top edge of the display.
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Insert a second metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly to keep the tabs from snapping back into place.
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Pry the display assembly away from the rear panel.
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Continue prying the display assembly away from the rear panel along the bottom and left edges of the iPad.
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Lift the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly by its bottom edge.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the antenna connector closest to the bottom of the iPad up off its socket on the communications board.
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In the following steps, you will disconnect the three cables attaching the display assembly to the logic board. The cables are for the following components:
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Digitizer
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Ambient Light Sensor
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Display Data Cable
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Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to flip up the retaining flaps holding the digitizer ribbon cables in their sockets on the logic board.
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Pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use an iPod opening tool to remove the ambient light sensor connector from its socket by gently prying upward.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Disconnect the display data cable from the main board by flipping up the metal retainer by its black plastic pull tab.
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Pull the cable connector away from its socket.
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Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to carefully pry the ambient light sensor board off the adhesive securing it to the display frame.
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Once you've gained enough clearance, peel the ambient light sensor off the LCD.
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While holding the digitizer cable down, carefully peel back the piece of tape connecting the digitizer cable to the display frame.
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Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to peel the antenna off the adhesive securing it to the top edge of the display.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the three T5 Torx screws securing the clips and LCD brackets covered in EMI tape near the home button switch.
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Carefully peel the display clip and its attached tape off the black plastic display frame.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the remaining T5 Torx screws securing the LCD to the black plastic display frame.
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Insert the edge of an iPod opening tool under one of the ears attached to the steel LCD frame.
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Twist the iPod opening tool to gently pry the LCD up off the adhesive securing it to the front glass panel.
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Repeat the process detailed on the previous step to pry up the display around the three sides opposite the digitizer cable side of the display.
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Lift the LCD from its free end, and remove it from the display frame.
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Carefully peel the adhesive securing the long side of the LCD to the display frame, then remove the LCD.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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If it is still stuck to the front panel, remove the strip of EMI tape near the ambient light sensor socket.
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기기를 재조립하려면 이 지침을 역순으로 따르세요.
기기를 재조립하려면 이 지침을 역순으로 따르세요.
다른 41명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
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댓글 4개
Did this and everything worked great, but I forgot to re-attach the 3G antenna so I went back in to do that, closed it back up again and now my wifi isn't working. Any thoughts on what I likely messed up?
The first repair didn't require a software/firmware restore, but the second one did. I've restored twice now and reset network settings... all the suggestions Apple makes for troubleshooting a software issue, so I do think I messed something up inside.
Be very careful on step 14 as the piece of tape holding down the digitizer cable will TEAR your cable if not properly peeled. Ask me how I know.
to ifixit.com:
I'm very disappointed in the lack of caution advised during this step. Almost as if you wanted us to mess this up for the purpose of purchasing a digitizer from you. Shame.
A short remark about how much force will then be needed to separate the old battery from the heated adhesive would be helpful. I found that even after I was able to begin the insertion of a plastic card between the battery and the case, it required a great deal of force to push the card further under the battery to complete the separation. Refer: soundcloud converter
Thanks for this helpful steps, its clear and easy, Refer: children toys one and half olds