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소개

Follow this guide to remove or replace the microphone assembly in an iPad 7 for both Wi-Fi only and Cellular models.

Be very careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily damaged, resulting in irreversible damage. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.

Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the guide procedure.

  1. We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

  2. Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

  3. Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

  4. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

  5. Handling it by the tag, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly. Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.
    • Handling it by the tag, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

    • Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

  6. While the iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under the front glass. To avoid damage, only heat and pry in the areas described in each step. As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas: Front-facing camera
    • While the iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under the front glass. To avoid damage, only heat and pry in the areas described in each step.

    • As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:

    • Front-facing camera

    • Antennas

    • Display cables

  7. Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side. Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal. While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
    • Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

    • Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

    • While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.

    • If your iPad's screen is badly cracked, covering it with a smooth layer of clear packing tape may help the suction cup adhere. Alternatively, use a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) and fold it into a handle.

  8. Place an opening pick in the gap opened by the suction cup. Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD. Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
    • Place an opening pick in the gap opened by the suction cup.

    • Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

    • Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

  9. Reheat and replace the iOpener.
    • Reheat and replace the iOpener.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

  10. Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
    • Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  11. Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
    • Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

    • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

  12. Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad. If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off. If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
    • Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

    • If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

  13. Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

  14. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
    • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

  15. Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera. The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad. Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front facing camera.
    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

    • The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.

    • Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front facing camera.

  16. Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge. Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge. Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.
    • Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

  17. Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera. Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, and then slide it to the corner of the iPad to finish cutting the adhesive on that edge. Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, and then slide it to the corner of the iPad to finish cutting the adhesive on that edge.
    • Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

    • Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, and then slide it to the corner of the iPad to finish cutting the adhesive on that edge.

  18. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
    • Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

  19. Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
    • Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

  20. Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there. Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.
    • Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.

    • Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

  21. Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~4.5" from the bottom of the iPad. The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~4.5" from the bottom of the iPad.
    • Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

    • The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~4.5" from the bottom of the iPad.

  22. Leave the opening picks in place, and set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad.
    • Leave the opening picks in place, and set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad.

  23. Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner. Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad. The third image shows the two antennas and the home button cavity in the lower case of the iPad.
    • Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.

    • Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.

    • The third image shows the two antennas and the home button cavity in the lower case of the iPad.

    • The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

  24. Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing. With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button. Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.
    • Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

    • With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.

    • Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.

    • If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.

    • Leave the pick in place before moving on.

  25. Take a new pick and slip it in to the right of the previous pick. Slide across the home button and right-hand antenna using only the very tip to remove the adhesive. Slide across the home button and right-hand antenna using only the very tip to remove the adhesive.
    • Take a new pick and slip it in to the right of the previous pick.

    • Slide across the home button and right-hand antenna using only the very tip to remove the adhesive.

  26. With the adhesive loosened, you can now insert the pick near the right-hand corner. Slide the pick to the left, and stop just short of the Home button. Just like with the left antenna, only slide from the outer edge toward the center. Reversing this direction may damage the antenna. Just like with the left antenna, only slide from the outer edge toward the center. Reversing this direction may damage the antenna.
    • With the adhesive loosened, you can now insert the pick near the right-hand corner. Slide the pick to the left, and stop just short of the Home button.

    • Just like with the left antenna, only slide from the outer edge toward the center. Reversing this direction may damage the antenna.

  27. Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the volume control side of the iPad.
    • Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the volume control side of the iPad.

  28. Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat. On the side of the iPad opposite the volume controls, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along the display cable edge.
    • Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.

    • On the side of the iPad opposite the volume controls, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along the display cable edge.

    • If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas.

  29. Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the display cable edge. Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the display cable edge.
    • Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the display cable edge.

  30. While supporting the front panel glass, use an opening pick to cut the last of the adhesive. Be very careful not to cut or damage any of the display cables. Be very careful not to cut or damage any of the display cables.
    • While supporting the front panel glass, use an opening pick to cut the last of the adhesive.

    • Be very careful not to cut or damage any of the display cables.

  31. Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace. During reassembly, clean the remains of the adhesive from the case (and the front glass if you are re-using it) with isopropyl alcohol, and replace the adhesive using our display adhesive application guide and pre-cut adhesive strips.
    • Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.

    • During reassembly, clean the remains of the adhesive from the case (and the front glass if you are re-using it) with isopropyl alcohol, and replace the adhesive using our display adhesive application guide and pre-cut adhesive strips.

    • It's easy to pinch a flex cable between the front glass and the iPad's frame during reassembly. Be mindful of the flex cables and make sure they gently fold and tuck under the frame. If the folds in a flex cable are pressed completely flat, it may be damaged beyond repair.

    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 4.3 mm-long screws securing the LCD to the frame.

    • Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

  32. Don't attempt to fully remove the LCD during this step, as it's still connected by several cables at the home button end. Only lift the LCD from the front-facing camera end. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.
    • Don't attempt to fully remove the LCD during this step, as it's still connected by several cables at the home button end.

    • Only lift the LCD from the front-facing camera end.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.

    • Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.

    • Lay the LCD down onto a clean, soft, lint-free surface to allow access to the display cables.

  33. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the single 2.3 mm-long screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the single 2.3 mm-long screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

  34. These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery. Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery. Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.
    • These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.

    • Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

  35. Be careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily bent or broken, resulting in irreversible damage. Ensure that the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up. Slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board's battery connector at a 35 degree angle.
    • Be careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily bent or broken, resulting in irreversible damage.

    • Ensure that the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up.

    • Slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board's battery connector at a 35 degree angle.

    • Don't push the battery blocker underneath the connector with excessive force. If you're having trouble fitting the battery blocker underneath the logic board, you can try using a playing card to disconnect the battery instead.

    • The battery blocker or playing card ideally should slide under the logic board without encountering any blockages. After insertion, it should rest at a 15 degree angle.

    • Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.

  36. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the display cable bracket.
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the display cable bracket.

  37. Remove the display cable bracket. Remove the display cable bracket.
    • Remove the display cable bracket.

  38. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the LCD cable by lifting straight up on the press connector. To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the LCD cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

  39. Remove the LCD completely and rest it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface.
    • Remove the LCD completely and rest it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface.

  40. Use a pair of tweezers to peel off the tape covering the home button cable ZIF connector. Use a pair of tweezers to peel off the tape covering the home button cable ZIF connector.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to peel off the tape covering the home button cable ZIF connector.

  41. Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.
    • Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.

  42. Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

  43. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two digitizer cables by lifting straight up on the press connectors. To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, not on the socket on the logic board. To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, not on the socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two digitizer cables by lifting straight up on the press connectors.

    • To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, not on the socket on the logic board.

  44. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the vibration isolator below the SIM card reader. Take care not to puncture or tear the home button ribbon cable. Remove the vibration isolator.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the vibration isolator below the SIM card reader.

    • Take care not to puncture or tear the home button ribbon cable.

    • Remove the vibration isolator.

  45. Use a pair of tweezers to peel the home button cable away from the rear case. The cable is secured with some light adhesive. The cable is secured with some light adhesive.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to peel the home button cable away from the rear case.

    • The cable is secured with some light adhesive.

    • Remove the front panel assembly.

    • Use an opening pick to cut away any residual adhesive that may still be connecting the front panel assembly to the frame.

    • If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit replacement digitizers come with the proper insulation and should not require the addition of any tape.

    • Without the proper insulation, these areas of the digitizer can ground out against other components, causing touch input malfunction.

    • The insulation is not visible to the naked eye, and is different from the foam dust barrier strips found on many iPads.

    • During reassembly, before installing a display, remove any remaining adhesive from the iPad, and clean the glued areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) and a lint-free cloth. This helps prep the iPad for fresh adhesive and ensures that it will bond properly.

    • Test your iPad's functions and install pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using our display adhesive application guide before sealing it up.

  46. Carefully peel the LCD buffer tape up off of the upper component bracket. Carefully peel the LCD buffer tape up off of the upper component bracket.
    • Carefully peel the LCD buffer tape up off of the upper component bracket.

  47. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the upper component bracket.
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the upper component bracket.

    • Three 1.4 mm-long screws

    • Two 1.9 mm-long screws

  48. Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the upper component bracket until you can grip it with your fingers. Remove the upper component bracket. You may need to peel the upper component bracket off of some tape securing it to the logic board.
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the upper component bracket until you can grip it with your fingers.

    • Remove the upper component bracket.

    • You may need to peel the upper component bracket off of some tape securing it to the logic board.

  49. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front camera cable by lifting straight up on the press connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front camera cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front camera cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.

  50. Use a spudger to lift the front camera out of its recess until you can grip it with your fingers. Use the spudger to pull the adhesive foam pad away from the front camera. Use the spudger to pull the adhesive foam pad away from the front camera.
    • Use a spudger to lift the front camera out of its recess until you can grip it with your fingers.

    • Use the spudger to pull the adhesive foam pad away from the front camera.

  51. Use a pair of tweezers to grip the front camera and rotate it to thread the cable through its slot in the rear case. Remove the front camera. Remove the front camera.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to grip the front camera and rotate it to thread the cable through its slot in the rear case.

    • Remove the front camera.

  52. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack by lifting straight up on the press connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack by lifting straight up on the press connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack by lifting straight up on the press connector.

  53. Use a pair of tweezers to peel the headphone jack up from the logic board and fold the cable out of the way. Use a pair of tweezers to peel the headphone jack up from the logic board and fold the cable out of the way.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to peel the headphone jack up from the logic board and fold the cable out of the way.

  54. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the cellular antennas to the rear case.
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the cellular antennas to the rear case.

  55. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 1.4 mm-long screws securing the cellular antennas to the rear case. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 1.4 mm-long screws securing the cellular antennas to the rear case.
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 1.4 mm-long screws securing the cellular antennas to the rear case.

  56. Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the right cellular antenna coaxial cable by prying up as close to the connector as possible. Disconnect the left antenna cable. Disconnect the left antenna cable.
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the right cellular antenna coaxial cable by prying up as close to the connector as possible.

    • Disconnect the left antenna cable.

  57. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect both cellular antennas by lifting straight up on their press connectors. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect both cellular antennas by lifting straight up on their press connectors. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect both cellular antennas by lifting straight up on their press connectors.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect both cellular antennas by lifting straight up on their press connectors.

  58. Insert the pointed end of a spudger behind the right cellular antenna bracket to dislodge it. Remove the right cellular antenna from the rear case. Remove the right cellular antenna from the rear case.
    • Insert the pointed end of a spudger behind the right cellular antenna bracket to dislodge it.

    • Remove the right cellular antenna from the rear case.

  59. Peel the left cellular antenna coaxial cable up from the rear case. Grip the antenna cable by the cable itself and not at its connector. Pulling coaxial cables by their connectors can break them. Grip the antenna cable by the cable itself and not at its connector. Pulling coaxial cables by their connectors can break them.
    • Peel the left cellular antenna coaxial cable up from the rear case.

    • Grip the antenna cable by the cable itself and not at its connector. Pulling coaxial cables by their connectors can break them.

  60. Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the left cellular antenna bracket and pry up to dislodge it. Remove the left cellular antenna from the rear case. Remove the left cellular antenna from the rear case.
    • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the left cellular antenna bracket and pry up to dislodge it.

    • Remove the left cellular antenna from the rear case.

  61. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.4 mm-long screw securing the microphone assembly to the rear case.
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.4 mm-long screw securing the microphone assembly to the rear case.

  62. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the microphone cable by lifting straight up on the press connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the microphone cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the microphone cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.

  63. Heat an iOpener and apply it to the microphone assembly for thirty seconds.
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the microphone assembly for thirty seconds.

  64. Insert a halberd spudger behind the upper microphone to peel it away from the rear case. If the microphone feels extra stuck, apply more heat and try again. If the microphone feels extra stuck, apply more heat and try again.
    • Insert a halberd spudger behind the upper microphone to peel it away from the rear case.

    • If the microphone feels extra stuck, apply more heat and try again.

  65. Insert the halberd spudger underneath the lower microphone and twist to peel it away from the rear case. Insert the halberd spudger underneath the lower microphone and twist to peel it away from the rear case. Insert the halberd spudger underneath the lower microphone and twist to peel it away from the rear case.
    • Insert the halberd spudger underneath the lower microphone and twist to peel it away from the rear case.

  66. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the microphone assembly flex cable through the slot in the rear case. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the microphone assembly flex cable through the slot in the rear case.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the microphone assembly flex cable through the slot in the rear case.

  67. Remove the microphone assembly. During reassembly, transfer the foam pad over to the new microphone assembly.
    • Remove the microphone assembly.

    • During reassembly, transfer the foam pad over to the new microphone assembly.

결론

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad 7 Answers community for help.

Robert Boyd

회원 가입일: 2021년 02월 01일

12,263 평판

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