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  1. 전자 레인지 바닥의 더러운 찌꺼기가 iOpener에 묻을  수 있으므로 진행하기 전에 전자 레인지 청소를 권장합니다. iOpener를 전자 레인지 중앙에 놓으세요.
    • 전자 레인지 바닥의 더러운 찌꺼기가 iOpener에 묻을 수 있으므로 진행하기 전에 전자 레인지 청소를 권장합니다.

    • iOpener를 전자 레인지 중앙에 놓으세요.

    • 회전식 전자 레인지: 플레이트가 자유롭게 회전하는 것을 확인하세요. iOpener가 걸리면 과열되어 타버릴 수 있습니다.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - 답글

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - 답글

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - 답글

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - 답글

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - 답글

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - 답글

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - 답글

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - 답글

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - 답글

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - 답글

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - 답글

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - 답글

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 답글

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - 답글

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - 답글

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - 답글

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - 답글

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - 답글

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - 답글

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - 답글

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - 답글

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - 답글

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - 답글

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - 답글

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - 답글

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - 답글

  2. iOpener를 30초 동안 가열하세요.
    • iOpener를 30초 동안 가열하세요.

    • 수리하는 동안, iOpener가 식으면, 한 번에 30초 씩 전자 레인지로 다시 가열하세요.

    • 수리하는 동안 iOpener가 과열되지 않도록 주의하세요. 과열로 iOpener가 터질 수 있습니다.

    • 부풀어 오른 iOpener는 절대로 만지지 마세요.

    • iOpener 중간 부분이 여전히 뜨거워서 만질 수 없다면 더 식어서 다시 가열할 때까지 계속 사용하세요. 제대로 가열한 iOpener는 최대 10분 동안 따뜻함을 유지해야 합니다.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - 답글

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - 답글

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - 답글

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - 답글

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - 답글

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - 답글

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - 답글

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - 답글

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - 답글

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - 답글

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - 답글

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - 답글

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - 답글

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 답글

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - 답글

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - 답글

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - 답글

  3. iOpener의 뜨거운 중간 부분을 피하고 평평한 끝 둘 중 하나를 잡아서 iOpener를 전자 레인지에서 꺼내세요.
    • iOpener의 뜨거운 중간 부분을 피하고 평평한 끝 둘 중 하나를 잡아서 iOpener를 전자 레인지에서 꺼내세요.

    • iOpener는 매우 뜨겁습니다 취급시 주의하세요. 필요한 경우 오븐 장갑을 사용하세요.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - 답글

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - 답글

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - 답글

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - 답글

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - 답글

  4. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

    Need some extra instruction on how to handle a truly shattered glass. There was only one spot that the suction cup would even hold on the whole screen - top right, and even with tape there is very little structure to drive a pick under. how do you handle that?

    Greg Crawford - 답글

  5. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.
    • Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

    • Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

    Can you explain how using the iOpener ? That's can be great !

    Matthieu Nasri - 답글

    The iOpener used is essentially a bag of gel, which you put in the microwave for 30 seconds. You lay this against the screen edges to transfer heat and loosen up the glue.

    You could also use a hot-air blower with a re-work station but that's up to you. Mine worked well up to 150°C

    Sam Attwood -

    what about heating a cloth bag filled with rice in the microwave? Would that work?

    SkipR - 답글

    That might work! Rice is less likely to get, and stay, hot enough. But it can't hurt to try! Just be sure you're being patient and letting it really warm up before you pry. People have had luck double bagging a washcloth dipped in very hot water, too.

    Sam Goldheart -

  6. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side. Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal. While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
    • Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

    • Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

    • While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.

    • Be careful to only lift the glass enough to insert an opening pick—any more and you risk cracking the glass.

    I'm having trouble getting the suction cup to stay connected to the screen to pull it. It just isn't creating a seal no matter how flat I make it. I thought maybe the crack was causing it, so I tried tape. I originally didn't put tape on it because it wasn't losing glass. The tape made it worse of creating a seal. Any advice?

    William - 답글

    After following instructions to cover cracked glass with packing tape, the suction cup won’t adhere at all. Not even a little bit. Any suggestions?

    Brian Tate - 답글

    I had that exact problem when I fixed an Iphone 8. What I did was that I put some ducktape where the suction cup would be placed. That worked for me. That’s of course is if you where doing to replace the glass anyway.

    Pontus Sennerstam -

    I had a screen on an iPad 4 that was so shattered that I literally had to spend 2.5 hours picking every single piece of glass out with tweezers after pulling the few larger pieces off with tape on them. Sometimes you need a lot of patience to be successful. The final cleaning out of the sticky tape along the sides is also very important once the glass is removed. Or the new screen will stick out an/or not go in neatly.

    Michael Burger - 답글

  7. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad. Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD. Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
    • While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.

    • Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

    • Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

    Could I use some guitar picks? If so, what gauge (thickness) of a picks should I get?

    SkipR - 답글

    I'm not sure what the correct balance of thickness to strength you'd need, maybe try a couple different types. The idea is to be thin and fit into the smallest gap, but if it gets bogged down in adhesive, it needs to be strong enough to push through. Be sure to use heat and be patient!

    Sam Goldheart -

  8. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Reheat and reapply the iOpener.
    • Reheat and reapply the iOpener.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.

    Well if you want to save some time and your screen is shattered just pry up one corner either left or right side at the top and tear the whole screen off going down towards the home button but do not completely remove the screen there is a wire connecting the digitizer to the board inside but tearing off the screen will skip you down to step 29 :-) i seen this in a video and saved me about an hour after the fact because my screen was cracking as i was inserting the blue picks so i ripped the whole screen off and used some adhesive remover to get off all the extra goo leftover

    Chris Grayden - 답글

  9. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass.
    • Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

    • Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass.

    I found that all the following step were much easier for me using a heat gun while keeping the pull on the screen with the suction cup. Basically heat up a section, put the suction cup on, keep pulling the screen upwards on that side, while using the heat gun to continuously heat along the side. It came nicely off, one or two inches at a time. Once I had a whole side up, I just put some of the picks in to keep it up and continued along the side, heating, pulling, heating pulling. This obviously only works if the screen is not totally shattered. Mine only had two cracks.

    Michael Burger - 답글

  10. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
    • Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

    • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

  11. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad. If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off. If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
    • Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

    • If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

  12. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

  13. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
    • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

  14. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera. The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad. Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.
    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

    • The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.

    • Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.

  15. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge. Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge. Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.
    • Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

  16. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera. Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive. Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.
    • Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

    • Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.

    • Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.

  17. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
    • Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

    If you have the LTE there is a cable on the right upper side! There’s no mention of this in this guide even though it’s for the LTE. I found out after the fact when I saw I cut the cable with the pick.

    Will Lyon - 답글

    Will Lyon, you may want to look again. This is the guide for the WiFi version.

    mcr4u2 -

  18. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
    • Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

  19. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass. Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.
    • Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass.

    • Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

  20. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
    • Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

    This is not an LTE ipad mini 3, it is a wifi ipad mini 3

    lordofmordor - 답글

  21. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive. Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive. Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.
    • Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.

  22. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.
    • Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.

    • Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every ten minutes.

    • Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

    For those who are replacing a severely shattered front panel, be aware that there are two smart cover magnets attached to the interior side of the front panel that you will need later. Keep an eye out for them (see steps 49 and 50 below for pictures of what these tiny magnets look like) so that you don't have to go digging through the debris later.

    Jeff G - 답글

  23. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner. Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad. There are quite a few things to avoid beneath the lower bezel, so study the third image closely:
    • Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.

    • Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.

    • There are quite a few things to avoid beneath the lower bezel, so study the third image closely:

    • Antennas

    • Home button cavity

    • Digitizer cable

    • The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

  24. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing. With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button. Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.
    • Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

    • With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.

    • Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.

    • If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.

    • Leave the pick in place before moving on.

  25. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step's pick, and slide it beneath the home button. Stop about an inch from the right-hand side to avoid cutting the digitizer cable. Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.
    • Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step's pick, and slide it beneath the home button.

    • Stop about an inch from the right-hand side to avoid cutting the digitizer cable.

    • Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.

    • Again, be sure to only slide the pick toward the center of the iPad when it is fully inserted; otherwise you may damage the antenna beneath the glass.

    Do NOT insert the pick much deeper to the right of the home button, you can easily damage the fingerprint ID chip.

    kimhoover - 답글

    There is no fingerprint id chip in an iPad mini 2 (retina)

    blakebest -

  26. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.
    • Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.

  27. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat. At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.
    • Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.

    • At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.

    • If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, stop twisting. Leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas, and run a pick through the sticking point one more time.

  28. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge. Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.
    • Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.

  29. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace. If reusing the front panel assembly during reassembly, you will need to replace your display adhesive. Use our display adhesive application guide to reapply your display adhesive and reseal your device.
    • Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.

    • If reusing the front panel assembly during reassembly, you will need to replace your display adhesive. Use our display adhesive application guide to reapply your display adhesive and reseal your device.

    This picture and several others that follow are not for the "LTE" model.

    Tim Osborn - 답글

    Some of the steps, including the comments, are replicated between guides.  Be aware! This can render them somewhat generic, and possibly non-optimal.  For instance, this step is replicated between at least the mini 2 LTE, mini 2 Wi-Fi, mini 3 LTE, & mini 3 Wi-Fi.

    ciradrak -

    Maybe that’s because this is for the WiFi model.

    mcr4u2 -

    Remember to remove the old black adhesive from the digitizer and iPad frame. Some can be pulled out and some needs a sharp blade to remove. This will give you room to apply your new adhesive strips when reassembling.

    Yousef Ghalib - 답글

  30. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it. Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel. Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.
    • The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it.

    • Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel.

    • Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.

  31. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD: Three 3.3 mm screws
    • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD:

    • Three 3.3 mm screws

    • One 4.5 mm screw

    • If there is tape covering any LCD screws, peel it up with tweezers.

    This is VERY IMPORTANT please be sure to put the screws EXACTLY how they were when you removed them otherwise your screen will not rotate when you put the new digitizer on. i closed my ipad thinking everything was ok but now the screen does not automatically rotate, but lucky i jailbroke my ipad first and have an activator gesture to rotate for me :-)

    Chris Grayden - 답글

    stripped the screws at the home button side of the ipad and the precision screw extractor set is too big to work. help?! paramedic064@gmail.com

    paramedic064 - 답글

    We have some great posts on Answers about getting stripped screws out, you can refer to What are your tips/tricks for removing or extracting stripped screws? for advice, or ask a new one and see if someone can come up with new ideas. We also have a stripped screw removal guide for you to check out. Good luck!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I found that Phillips #000 work better then the Phillips #00 for this entire product. I'll be recommending a change to the fix kit as well.

    William - 답글

    This is a tip:

    I have a terrible time cleaning the lcd because no matter how hard I try not to touch it, I always get smudges! So take my advice…remove the front film from the new digitizer and place it over the lcd. It is bigger so you can cut it down or just lift it to get to the screws. Now no fingerprints and also less chance for scratches. The front side is easy to clean once it’s installed so need to have that covered while working-the insides are what needs protecting.

    mamashannon4u - 답글

  32. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still adhered in place and connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end. Insert the flat end of a spudger under the LCD between it and the LCD shield plate and lift gently.
    • Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still adhered in place and connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger under the LCD between it and the LCD shield plate and lift gently.

    • Be very careful not to get the spudger under the shield plate. It must be between the LCD and the shield.

    • Even bending the LCD slightly can permanently damage it, so be extremely careful as you lift.

    • You can try these alternate removal methods to reduce your chance of cracking the LCD during the removal process:

    • Run a thin string (like floss or fishing line) under the display, starting from the top then working your way down

    • Use a thin, flexible card or plastic money note to cut through the adhesive starting from the top.

    Be very careful not to get the spudger under the shield plate, but between the LCD and the shield. Also, not that on the LTE models, the antennas are at this end and there is a bit of adhesive holding this end of the LCD down.

    Tim Osborn - 답글

    This bit of adhesive is located beneath the foam, and runs the entire length of the antennas. You must lift the foam and detach the tape before you're able to get the top to come out the chassis

    James - 답글

    This is not present in this tutorial and is very frustrating. I fix it must look into this

    James - 답글

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey - 답글

    Thanks for the fishing line suggestion. It certainly worked for me (used 6lb test line). With using the fishing line, one is a lot less likely to break the LCD compared to using a spudger.

    rgstout -

    awesome tip thanks

    Pa Du -

    The tutorial procedure should be edited once and for all to instruct to detach the adhesive strip from the top of the LCD prior to attempting to lift it. Failure to do so will invariably result in a broken LCD!!!

    The simplest way to do that is to first gently remove the foam strip running around the top of the LCD with a pair of tweezers. Only then will the shiny metallic adhesive tape be visible and accessible.

    lorenzocangiano - 답글

    I found that if you take two flat plastic spurgers and run one down each side together it works fairly well. Just take your time.

    Abbot - 답글

    The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

    Timothy McEvoy - 답글

    Yeah, I broke my LCD because the guide did not specify the glue on the top portion if you have an LTE model. I didn’t even try hard at all. I tried to lift it with the plastic spudger and saw that it did not move. Came to check the comments and when I looked back the top corner was already broken.

    Thanks iFixit! Awesome guide

    Jorge Tamez - 답글

  33. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    The LCD is secured by mild adhesive that should be loosened before you flip the LCD up from its shield plate. Insert the spudger between the LCD and LCD shield plate and slide it to the far edge of the iPad. Insert the spudger between the LCD and LCD shield plate and slide it to the far edge of the iPad.
    • The LCD is secured by mild adhesive that should be loosened before you flip the LCD up from its shield plate.

    • Insert the spudger between the LCD and LCD shield plate and slide it to the far edge of the iPad.

    Hi. I noticed that the tutorial is for an LTE iPad mini 2. However, these pictures do not show and LTE device. I'm having issues removing the LCD from the iPad due to the antenna. Any suggestions? (How to remove antenna?)

    Kevin Rodriguez - 답글

    This step needs extra detail on how the LCD adhesive should be loosened. I've now got stress marks on the LCD which show up when solid backgrounds are displayed on screen as the LCD flexed when trying to pry it out.

    Cool_Breeze - 답글

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey - 답글

    Great tip about the fishing wire because you will most certainly crack the LCD just yanking it out. Thank you and hit em with the hein

    Curtis Jordan Lenox - 답글

    I found that if you take two flat plastic spurgers and run one down each side together it works fairly well. Just take your time.

    Abbot - 답글

    The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

    Timothy McEvoy - 답글

  34. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Two wide strips of tape connect the LCD to the speakers. Hold the LCD with one hand, and the rear body of the iPad with the other.
    • Two wide strips of tape connect the LCD to the speakers.

    • Hold the LCD with one hand, and the rear body of the iPad with the other.

    • Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD from the iPad.

    • Gently pull the LCD away from the speakers to separate the tape, being careful not to pull on the digitizer cable.

    this was a pain to remove but the two pieces of tape should be separated using your spudger so that you can remove the lcd.

    Chris Grayden - 답글

    The screen was a tight fit in the recess. Whilst maneouvering it out, it flexed a little. Once reassembled, there are now feint stress marks visible when the screen displays a uniform background. With photos it's not noticeable, but on solid backgrounds, it is very noticeable. :-(

    Be careful when pulling the LCD out. Any hints for pulling it out safely should be added to this step.

    Cool_Breeze - 답글

    This step is bad advise. Once you get the LCD unglued top and sides, drop those plastic tools behind it to keep it up and apply heat to the front bottom of the LCD where the tape is applied on either side, use your spudger to push the tape away before you attempt to pull or flip the LCD over. It is very easy to break if you don't get the tape loose enough, so do yourself a favor and free the LCD from the tape before you attempt to maneuver it.

    brentschwartz - 답글

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey - 답글

    As others have said this step is rather problematic and following the tuturial instructions will most definitely lead to damaging the LCD. One problem is that the two adhesive tapes are not indicated in the photo: they are large and black and they are partly covered by long strips of thicker material that looks like padding. To remove them it helps to heat a little with the opener and then one can slowly peel them away by alternating the sharp and flat tips of the spudger.

    lorenzocangiano - 답글

    This must be the most difficult part. I took the advice of using fishing line and it worked a treat. However, due to lack of knowledge - I managed to slice straight through the LCD ribbons (all of them). I figure it was glue so kept going! Please take not that fishing line is only good for the sides, not the top where the LCD is attached! New LCD on order for round 2.

    Mike - 답글

    Well. I cracked the LCD during this process, so another $100. But, it’s the journey that counts, right? There is adhesive keeping the LCD attached to the aluminum shield. As I was prying the LCD up (I didn't know about the adhesive), I did hear feint cracking. Also it is too tight to try to flip the LCD over as shown. I did heat the bottom strips, but still tried to do it as shown, more cracking. It seems best to heat it and push the adhesive strips back and separate them prior to lifting. As well as the sides of the LCD for lifting!!

    William Dailey - 답글

    I separated the small tape in the middle (5mm), and the large upper tape (20mm), but left the lower tape at the connector in place. That way, the LCD was much easier to pull away gently and to tilt over.

    peterhebbinckuys - 답글

    I used a needle nosed tweezers to remove the tape on the bottom left and right. I then used the plastic spudger and went between the LCD and the metal piece. I gently went down the left side about half way and then the right and slowly and gently worked both sides until they separated.

    Abbot - 답글

    This step is unclear and should be revised, but Abbot’s comment has the right idea.  The tape holding the LCD in place should be highlighted in the image. This tape wraps around the lower edge of the panel and extends onto the front face, then a piece of cushion is attached on top.  Heat that tape to soften the adhesive then peal it up.  The connector for the LCD is on the back side of the panel in the lower right hand corner, it is not near the tape you are pealing away from the panel. Once the tape is separated very little force is required to shift the panel toward the top of the device as depicted. If you attempt to ‘pull the LCD away from the speakers’ with two hands as shown, it will almost certainly be broken.  Also, all the youtube explanations (at least the ones I could find) of how to remove the LCD make it look like you lift up on the top which would only cause the LCD to break.  So youtube failed this step as well.  It’s not easy, be careful.

    P.S. as these steps are replicated between more than one device –– I’m working on an iPad mini 3 LTE, the tape may be in different places on other devices?

    ciradrak -

    The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

    Timothy McEvoy - 답글

    The three tapes is best removed with tweezers! Then the LCD is easily flipped over. Extremely odd it’s not explained in this way.

    trnilsson - 답글

    It is MANDATORY to loosen the 3 tapes as well (step 36), don’t even try to lift it without loosening them first!!!! After you did it you can turn the screen without any resistance! Should be added in this guide!!!!

    Ishino Akatawa - 답글

  35. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end. Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
    • Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.

    • Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.

    • Be gentle and keep an eye on the LCD cables as you flip the display over.

    • Lay the LCD on the front panel glass to allow access to the display cables.

  36. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Slide the tip of a spudger between the LCD and the adhesive tabs to free the display. Push gently between each of the two adhesive tabs; be careful not to damage any of the nearby cables. Push gently between each of the two adhesive tabs; be careful not to damage any of the nearby cables.
    • Slide the tip of a spudger between the LCD and the adhesive tabs to free the display.

    • Push gently between each of the two adhesive tabs; be careful not to damage any of the nearby cables.

    This was harder than it looks. The adhesive tape covers a lot of area and has stuck to it tiny wires that go to the speaker. I had to use the tweezers to very carefully separate the wire from the adhesive, and to then pull the adhesive off the circuit board area in one spot before it would finally come away.

    Ray Everett - 답글

    Be careful that it does not pull up all the foam strips, that was my issue.

    Shane - 답글

  37. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Remove the seven 1.8 mm Phillips #00 screws from the LCD shield plate.
    • Remove the seven 1.8 mm Phillips #00 screws from the LCD shield plate.

    My LCD shield plate had many more screws than this. You have to remove them all.

    David Rowthorn - 답글

    At the assembly stage I found it is easier to use Philips PH000 screw driver bit than PH00. It helped me to get these minuscule screws in place, catch the head holes and drive them into their tight position. While using PH00 the driver would not catch the holes in their head and I was risking scratching the display since the screws refused to settle in the openings.

    mxmbulat - 답글

  38. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD shield plate up and out of the iPad. Remove the LCD shield plate. Remove the LCD shield plate.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD shield plate up and out of the iPad.

    • Remove the LCD shield plate.

    You can also just slide it back to expose the cable bracket.

    Will - 답글

  39. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the display cable bracket:
    • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the display cable bracket:

    • One 2.7 mm screw

    • Two 1.4 mm screws

    Why remove the LDC if the microphones are on the other side?

    Yousef Ghalib - 답글

    PH000 seems to work better to remove these screws.

    Abbot - 답글

  40. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Remove the display cable bracket from the iPad.
    • Remove the display cable bracket from the iPad.

  41. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Use the point of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector up off its socket on the logic board. Be very careful to only pry up the battery connector, not the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely. Make sure to pry up the battery connector before attempting any other repairs inside the device.
    • Use the point of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Be very careful to only pry up the battery connector, not the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

    • Make sure to pry up the battery connector before attempting any other repairs inside the device.

    During reassembly, be sure to well press the battery connector in place. Otherwise, you will ave to re open... as I had to do !

    ZARAGOZA - 답글

    Any advice RE reassembly and the adhesive? Just heat and it re-adheres?

    drewmc - 답글

    This step is unnecessary. Or I don't know.

    Clément Marshall - 답글

    This step is unnecessary! I just replaced the screen, and skipped this step!

    trnilsson - 답글

  42. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Use flat end of a spudger to lift the LCD connector up off its socket on the logic board. Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.
    • Use flat end of a spudger to lift the LCD connector up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.

    This step i also unnecessary. Just flip the LCD back to uncover the digitizer connector.

    trnilsson - 답글

  43. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad.
    • Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad.

    Please note that there are 2 strips of adhesive on the left and the right side of the display. Use a string or fishing wire to loosen the adhesive. I cracked my LCD and had to order a new one because this step was missing.

    jdmasfuuck - 답글

결승점

다른 70명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.

Sam Goldheart

회원 가입일: 2012년 10월 18일

439,518 평판

안내서 547개 작성하였습니다

iFixit iFixit 회원

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안내서 16,439개 작성하였습니다

Would like to know how to remove old adhesive from the front glass and where to put the new adhesive. Is there another guide showing this. Great up to the part it says to follow in reverse.

Games James - 답글

ifixit puts the reverse the steps up. Not the author

Nicholas Reed -

Hello i really need a help, when i was turn it on the ipad mini 2 it was in the apple log and i try to put the display cable bracket and inmediatly turn it off i think was a short cut because y try with another screen and nothing happend thanks

Omar Araujo - 답글

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