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소개
Follow the steps in this guide to replace the display assembly in an iPad Pro 12.9", or to access other internal components for servicing.
Note that the Home Button installed in your original display assembly is paired to the iPad's logic board, and will need to be removed and transferred to the new display to retain Touch ID functionality.
Before beginning, check to see if your replacement part has a daughterboard adhered to its back. If so, this guide will work for you. Otherwise, you will need to transfer the board from the old display to the new one. Transferring the daughterboard from the original to replacement unit will require specialty microsoldering equipment and we recommend DIY users source a new part rather than attempt the procedure.
Parts of this guide were shot with a Wi-Fi model and as such the internals may look slightly different from the LTE model. The procedure is the same for both models except where noted.
Be very careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily damaged, resulting in irreversible damage. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.
필요한 것
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Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
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Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
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Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
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Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
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Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
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Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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Lay a hot iOpener along the bottom left corner of the iPad, spanning from the opening pick to the home button.
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After letting the adhesive soften, insert a halberd spudger into the iPad next to the opening pick.
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Cut the adhesive along the bottom left side of the iPad using the halberd spudger. This may require reheating the edge of the iPad.
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Continue to slide the halberd spudger back and forth to ensure most of the adhesive is separated.
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Lay a hot iOpener along the upper left corner of the iPad, spanning from the opening pick to the front-facing camera.
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After letting the adhesive soften, insert the blade of your halberd spudger into the iPad above the opening pick.
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Cut the adhesive along the upper left side of the iPad towards the front-facing camera using the halberd spudger. This may require reheating the edge of the iPad.
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Reheat your iOpener and lay it over the top edge of the device. Wait a couple minutes for the adhesive to soften.
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Once the front panel is adequately heated, insert the blade of a halberd spudger next to the opening pick from the previous step.
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Slide the blade along the top edge of the iPad, stopping before reaching the front-facing camera.
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If necessary, reheat your iOpener and lay it over the top edge of the device. Wait a couple minutes for the adhesive to soften before reinserting the blade of the halberd spudger.
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Insert the blade of the halberd spudger just past the front-facing camera, on the opposite side of the opening pick.
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Continue to slide the blade of the halberd spudger to the upper right corner of the iPad.
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Return to step 5 of this guide and ensure the thick portions of adhesive are adequately separated from the display assembly. If they are, continue with this step. Otherwise, slice the adhesive to break it up until the display assembly is freed.
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Lift up the upper edge of the display and slide it towards the front-facing camera to access the iPads internal components.
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Remove the display assembly.
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Be sure to remove all remaining adhesive from the iPad's enclosure, and use our display adhesive application guide to install fresh pre-cut adhesive strips when reassembling your iPad.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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댓글 21개
Hello there OK so I have 2 screens with 2 different connectors one L shaped (which is on the new screen) and the old cracked screen has a rectangular type? I’m not sure rather it’s a 1gen/2nd gen type of problem? I’m about to grab my hot air gun to completely disassemble the cracked screen, as maybe I’m missing something? Any assistance is welcome… well actually please help me with this before I get a headache since this has totally frustrated me and i’ve had this sitting for nearly 2 1/2 months now but it’s about that time that I readdress this in attempt to fix it.
Hi, does your replacement screen have the home button assembly included? Otherwise there's need of soldering the assembly to it before it can be installed.
Dreetn -
hi
does anyone knows why there is a foam adhesive in thr back of the screen ? do i need to put back when i replaxe screen ?
thanks
screensguy - 답글
I suppose the foam adhesive is similar to the one on the back of the 6s screens. I guess it has more of a heat dissipation function or is meant to absorb any pointy pressure points from inside that may develop (loose screw, sand, dirt...)
Dreetn -
hi
hope someone can help . i tested couple of screens before fitting them in they were working but once tech close it there no touch or black lcd (backlight on but no image )
NB : they disconnect battery before connecting Screen
screensguy - 답글
If you don't have this problem while the assembly is still loose, my best guess is that you have an unwanted contact somewhere, causing a short circuit or malfunction. Perhaps in the bending of the flex?
Dreetn -
Removing the screen takes a great degree of patience. You apply heat, and pull on the suction cup, and for a long time nothing seems to happen. Do not try to replace time with force at this point keep heating and pulling on various areas, you will get separation. It took 5 or 6 heating/pulling cycles to start to see results. Then you can work your way around.
MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT INSERT ANY CARDS/PICKS/SPUDGERS MORE THAN 1/4 inch tops!! YOU WILL DAMAGE THE SCREEN. Just replaced the battery in my iPad Pro 12.9 (A1652). Unfortunately I did not read this until completed. I now have several areas on my $1000 iPad where the white screen has orange burn looking marks around the edges. Looks like it was a $200 oops. Live and Learn. I’m now a member and will utilize this website for future endeavors…
You know any workshop who does a repair for my three iPad Pro 12.9 front glasses with the digitizer,
Sometimes the process is called OCA refurbishment oder LCD refurbishment.
NOT the display-unit as a whole. I have two models from 2015 and one from 2017. The model numbers are a 1584 and a 1670.
In Germany there are a few companies who are able to do it, but not affordable. The prices are nearly as high as a complete swap of the display unit.
Just wondering, I work in a repair shop, and am replacing the front panel entirely but unfortunately screwed up soldering the daughterboard. Is this a part they MUST be transferred or am I safe to just replace it?
Zane Clark - 답글
Hello.
Is it possible to change only the “Glas” and not the Display? My display works fine but the Protecting Glas is broken.
Hi, that’s possible for very, very experienced technicians. Not only do you need to heat up the screen quite a lot to soften up the LOCA glue, but furthermore you need to cut it with a cutting wire while making sure not to damage the LCD underneath. I also fear the iPad pro will probably require some micro-soldering to be able to (dis)connect the glass from all the rest (but perhaps I’m confusing things with the first screen modules in mind that came out but still needed some micro-soldering to finish them of at that time). In short, if you haven’t separated touchscreens/glass plates several times before … don’t even think about it. The above is only half the trouble to go through as the new touchscreen/glass needs to be attached to the LCD again with new LOCA glue afterwards. Again a job which requires a lot of expertise.
Dreetn -
I used this guide to replace a screen for my iPad Pro. The device powers on but now gets stuck in a boot loop. I took it to a local phone repair shop and they said they don’t do repairs on iPad Pros because they always get stuck in boot loops. I wish there was a warning on this guide telling people this so they don’t go to all the effort and spend money on a new screen just to get their iPad stuck in a boot loop.
Brandon, I don’t know of any specific ‘sensitivity’ that iPad Pro’s have towards repairing that would result in bootloops.
I think it is more likely that either
- The repair shop isn’t keen on repairing your device because parts are expensive and/or difficult to find (for instance motherboard parts). They just tell you a believable story to avoid having to say ‘Too risky’ or ‘Not worth our effort/time’.
- Something got damaged during the repair.
Another possibility, which you can easily put aside yourself, is software damage. Try a full restore (without data retention) with tools such as 3uTools. It’s free software. I advise using the iTunes restore method. You can first try a restore with ‘retain user’s data’ but success ratio is minimal there. Best is to go for a clean flash/restore.
Good luck!
Dreetn -
No matter how many times I have tried to apply the iOpener, or to use a dryer for 10 mins (iPad was super hot), I’m simply unable to lift the screen with the suction cup, even for a micron. Anything I could have missed ?
Hi Laurent, it sounds like you’re on the right track—continue gradually applying more heat until the adhesive softens a little. Unfortunately these screens are super hard to remove. Just be careful about applying too much heat at once in a small area as that could damage the screen.
While removing the screen I accidentally pulled the soldering from the daughterboard to the display cable. is their a way to fix this or is it an issue?
This was an awesome guide! It was really fun, but a lot of really careful work!! How could anybody do this repair and charge a reasonable rate for the labor? It took me soooo long.
