iPhone 7 Lightning 커넥터 어셈블리 교체

Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

Can’t get the display front

From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.

Before starting, I would recommend backing up your Iphone’s data just in case.

If you managed to make it to this section, just send the phone into apple for 50 + 6 dollars shipping. The ribbon cables on the screen are designed to break. I can literally twist on the rest of the cable and it won’t fall apart but there is a diagonal section where it snaps. This is the fault of apple and the fault of ifixit for misrepresenting the fragility of the cables.

Had to reheat it a few times for a minute each with a hairdryer to get the seal to break after pulling and rocking the suction

I’m technically challenged. Is there a premier national service who can professionally install a replacement battery got my 7 +?

Is it the P2 you should use for the bottom??

I heated the bottom of the phone with a hairdryer and then used a syringe to put a couple of drops of acetone directly into the bottom two screw holes. I GENTLY pulled on the screen with the suction cup and used the pry tool to GENTLY separate the screen. The sealant is applied around the entire display so be very careful pulling it off so you don’t break the fragile display cables.

At first it was very difficult to open, per instructions. I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, place the taptic engine before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit. Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.

I love the fact that the screw bit and shaft are magnetic! I almost lost a screw and found it attached to the magnet.

I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. At first the display cover was very difficult to open with the pry tool, per instructions. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used the blade of my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, see the taptic engine in place before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit because I placed it almost too low.

Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.

I replaced the lightning connector assembly and reassembled. The old one did not 'click' into the cable and had corrosion inside, it needed the cable to be placed in a specific way to charge. The new part - does not recognize that a charger is plugged in at all.

I backtracked the assembly - took it apart, put it back again - and find that every thing on the part works - the mic, speakers, taptic engine.

The original problem with the cable still persists. Any ideas?

Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

Can’t get them removed what to do ?

The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small.  use a magnetised screwdriver,  or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol

Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid

I couldn’t get the lowest one out and just turned the metal bracket out of the way and replaced battery.

Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.

The top screw in the step was much longer than 1.2mm. It has the same head as the 1.2mm, but different than the 2.4mm. It’s good to keep track of where they came from.

All are so small that I thought I’d lost one, when it was still sitting in the phone.

To help tell if the screw is turning, put a small dot from a marker on the head of the screws.  This helped me to know I wasn't just stripping the head.

try heating the iPhone with a hairdryer or a bag of rice or about 60 degrees in an oven for 3 minutes . It has worked for me. If the screws don’t come out while hot the will come out as the iPhone cools.

A small tapered triangle file using moderate pressure did the trick for me.

my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

Thanks, Josh Martin! Mine was stuck too, so I lifted carefully.

Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.

I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.

The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.

It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.

In my case, the battery connector was attached to the bracket. We just left it connected bracket when we pryed it up.

Reconnecting the battery connector was a bit difficult in my case. The cable that comes out of the battery was a tiny bit too long, or that I placed the battery a bit too high (i.e., too close to the top of the phone). It took me several frustrating minutes of fiddling with the connector for it to sit right into the socket. I was not sure if that was connected correctly but, alas, the phone came back to life when it was turned back on.

VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Please READ the reply here by jason.

It is very easy to knock off or nudge the little pins near the battery socket, see https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/... and https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/....

Those pins are the data lines to extract battery info: temperature, charge, etc. If you accidentally nudge/knock off them the phone could appear to work normally, even for a few days. But then you will start getting wrong battery reads and then after that it may suffer a reboot loop. If you enter settings > privacy > analytics & improvements and you scroll down you will find panic errors from thermalmonitord that there are missing sensors (TG0B or TGXXX) and you will have to micro solder them. DO NOT NUDGE THEM and double check the socket connector when reconnecting the battery.

After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all! Careful removing the lower bracket - mine was stuck to this battery connector, which came up with the bracket. Luckily no cable or connector damage. Be careful. Thank you all!

after installing new ifixit battery kit, note the foam on the new battery is thicker than old apple one, managed to remove the old foam and swap to new battery connector, sheild plate now level

To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

iPhone 디스플레이 접착제 교체

MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.

Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(

An earlier comment said to re-apply the suction cup to the right side of the display so that it acts as a stand when the phone is partially opened. That’s a great idea, and helps a lot for this step and the next.

Hey – I broke one of these flex cables and I cant find them to purchase anywhere. Can somebody help me? It’s the LCD connector first and what is the second flex cable for? Thanks!

I replaced the screen and have ended up with a blank screen. Touch control seem to work (touch button works and I can shut down the phone by pressing power button for some seconds and then swipe left to right in the upper part of the screen). But the screen is blank. I’ve tried to disconnect and connect the two connectors in step 16 but with the same result (blank screen). What do I need to do?

Thanks for advice!

this point is the most important in the whole manual.

Please pay attention not to strain the flex cables or they will end up breaking

I should have been more careful - the second cable tore off.

My own fault after having done this replacement about four times previously without any issues, I clearly got cocky and didn’t pay enough attention.

Be VERY CAREFUL and remember to unplug those cables. Don’t skip steps.

I’ve now had to order a replacement screen.

Echo minimalist’s comment here. Prop the display up and skip to step 19 to save time and remove risk.

If you replace the screen and there is no display apply io propyl alcohol 99.9 & purse to both connectors on the screen and on the iPhone with a clean toothbrush and let them dry for 45 minutes and then fit the screen and reassemble the iPhone..

It works for me . when I get a new screen I do t5his before fitting it.

Can somebody help me with the name of the part that these cables belong to? The bottom one got ripped during my battery replacement, I need a new one but unsure what to look for.

The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

i used the little +-shape 30 mm screwdriver (not the Y…but the + shape).

the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?

You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.

Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O

What can I do to remove the screw (I stripped it)

I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work

I skipped this step. Just be really careful not to pull on the screen.

The guide says they changed these to the Y000 “at some point in the t middle of the product’s lifecycle”…

That can’t be true, I have a *day one*, preordered iPhone 7, and mine had, unmistakably, Y000 screws!

and also, I’m just faithfully following the guide here, but can anyone clarify *why* is is necessary to entirely remove the display AND the Taptic Engine at all? The battery seems accessible just fine… oh well

PS- I’m doing this on an older backup iPhone 7. My iPhone 12 Pro just went berserk and stopped working completely a little over a year after I got it day one of its release… since the iPhone X I’ve only had easily breakable, overly sensitive phones. I’ve had every numbered iPhone except for the 8 (I got the X released at the same date) and the 11, and man, are these newer iPhones post X fragile!

This worked for me! As mentioned use PH000 and apply pressure and then unscrew the screws. They are tiny, adhere to a piece of tape so you don't lose them.

Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

This is the only connector that is quite easily possible to put back in the wrong way. If you do so, the phone will just get into a continuous loop where it shows the boot screen, goes blank and then shows the boot screen again and again. If this happens, do not despair-just put it back in the right way.

After putting together, I had a continuous loop boot up (as noted above). I saw articles where this (front panel sensor connection) was the reason. I disconnected this connection and the boot up loop stopped. I tried reconnecting several times but had the same problem (boot up loop). However, it turns out that I needed to apply extra pressure when installing until a heard a (faint) second click when pressing down. Note - before I was using the spudger to press the connection together, which didn’t do the job. I ended up using my finger to press harder to get it to click in. Solved that issue.

The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

If the instructions are followed step by step, then adding the adhesive comes before changing the battery.

If I had to do it all over again, I'd skip adding the adhesive, because you have to disconnect the battery, plus the two lower display connecters and the front panel sensor assembly connector. It was a nightmare trying to marry the components back together without disturbing the wire prongs, and I don't even want to talk about reinserting the tiny screws that kept twirling around on the tip of the screwdriver as well. It wasn't worth the time or aggravation!!

If you decide to skip this step, just avoid using your iPhone near water.

The barometric vent seems to have some foam cushioning towards the bottom of the case? does this get damaged via removal I wonder?

I didn't see the necessity, so I didn't remove the Barometric Vent since I decided I wasn't going to uplug the Taptic Engine, although I did remove screws for the Taptic Engine, but I didn't unplug it. I believe the point of removing the Taptic Engine is to gain access and space to pull the adhesive strips off the battery. If you attempt and are able to remove the adhesive off the battery, then I believe it's NOT necessary to remove the Barometric Vent nor the Taptic Engine.

I believe the point of removing the Taptic Engine is to gain access and space to pull the adhesive strips off the battery. If you attempt and are able to remove the adhesive off the battery, then I believe it's NOT necessary to remove the Barometric Vent nor the Taptic Engine.

My screws are stripped here. Please help, I don’t know what to do!

My screws are also stripped here, but the phone has never been opened before!

Hey Salva and Kyle, sorry to hear about all these stripped screws! For help with removing them, check out our guide.

I had a new phone. These screws were missing when I disassembled it. Not sure what QC Apple has, but it ain’t great. If they’re missing it’s not the end of the world. You can just disable taptic touch.

I had my 7 battery replaced by an Apple Authorized dealer. Around 2 weeks after the taptic engine started to make a !&&* of a noise when it was activated (sounded as if it was loose)… then 1 month after that… it stopped working completely. fast forward 8-9 months later, the battery they had replaced just wasn’t holding its charge anymore (phone was spending more time plugged in charging and depleting very quickly = full charge lasted about 1-2 hours). Having bought the ifixit battery and have gotten as far as this step, I could see that all three of the 1.6mm screws were just floating around in the compartment and the taptic engine was just being held on via it’s ribbon lead. WTF?! Screws aren’t stripped and I managed to fix it in again. Why would these screws be floating around like this??

another person checking in here to assure you that, if you find a stripped screw (or more) at this step, you’re not crazy. I have one as well! I’m in dis-effing-belief. This phone has NEVER been serviced by anyone, and was allegedly brand new when purchased.

To the person suggesting a dremel tool to remedy this…. *blink**Blink*. Are you kidding me right now? *slap*. Vibrating the !&&* out of all those sensitive parts - not to mention what one slip could end in your phone being effectively sawed in half.

Hey may i ask…what is the use of both of the antenna cables?i just opened my iphone 7 plus and i found both of the cables are broken.if both of the cables are broken,what does it effect on my iphone?

Speaker and antenna?

I'm missing the black thing from my antenna and I have no signal, could this be the reason why? Is the black thing insulation?

These doodads are a pain to route and reconnect. I probably spent 15 minutes just on this part of reassembly. One of them is connected to the new part. It won’t have the soft grommet on top.

One of these came away from its base. The one nearest the battery.

When I reassemble it I’m thinking just a bit of glue at the side once re attached to base, so lomg as it touches the base contacts?

Any comments?

I am having the worst time imaginable trying to reconnect the antenna cable coming from the lightening connector assembly to the logic board. It’s barely long enough and will not snap into place. There’s a minature gold pin sticking up from a circular gold ring on the logic board and I must have spent an hour on this one step. The antenna end has the female end. Everything else went well. The antenna connector from the old lightening assembly will connect relatively quickly. I’m beginning to think the new antenna connector female end might be defective. I’m ready to cut the black antenna wire and try to solder in a longer piece using the old connector assembly. Any ideas? HELP !!!

These can be tricky to reconnect. I found the best way is to hold the connector with tweezers and use the point of a spudger on top of the connector in the other hand. Slowly moving the connector with the tweezers while applying gentle pressure with the spudger, you will eventually feel the connector and its seat line up and you can snap into place. Don’t force it, when it is lined up it is easy so you have to patiently work on aligning it.

please say which antenna is which, impossible to know now

Tip that helped me: remove the standoff screw next to the clip before derouting (or, upon reassembly, rerouting) the cables. This gives you a lot more space to work with! (Note: I only did this on reassembly, so I don’t know if there are any gotchas on disassembly.)

Please pay close attention to witch one goes where or take a picture bad mistake made.

They break very easily

difficile a retirer. Les 2 tables sont clipsés sur le haut parleur. Il m’a bien fallu 10 - 15 minutes pour arriver a les retirer. Aucune astuce a vous donner, a part de la persévérance.

One cable seems to stay attached to the speaker. Don’t try to pry it off the speaker! This is shown in the video but not in these photos.

Reassembly tip: after aligning the speaker with the bottom edge, instead of lowering the speaker into place, keep the speaker raised slightly and push the cables back into the clip (which were removed in step 28) with the flat end of a spudger. In doing so, though, make sure that the cable from the lightning connector piece remains above the flat metal piece protruding out the left side of the speaker.

Received a sim card tray from IFIXIT for my iphone 7. I can’t seem to get it to close flush no matter how hard I try. Any suggestions?

Why would it require a significant amount of force? Is it because the iPhone 7 is water resistant? When I removed my tray it was like it was stuck in goop inside the phone and the tray had a glue like sticky substance on it? It did not ‘click’ back in smoothly like my other iPhones, I had to push it against the ‘goop’. Is this normal for iPhone 7??

I used the tip of the super pointy tweezers, and it worked well.

I couldn’t get my 1.3mm screw out. It’s not required thankfully as you can just bend the cover up and out of the way to complete the rest of the steps.

i removed them with PH000

There is one Step missing before removing the flash light cable: Remove Camera cable, right?

I broke this and can’t find it on amazon. Is it part of the volume control flash connector? If not, can you send me a link on where to find this connector,…and possible instructions on how to replace?

these are too tight cant get rid off them from y000

ok with Y000 from pro tool kit

Had to push down to get the Y000 in place

Este cable q funciona tiene porfavor lo desconecte y funciona normal

I lost one of these 1.2 mm screws. Will that affect the signal reception?

There is another screw connecting the antenna to the case.

How do you open the 1.7mm screw? LOL

The screws are not threading in for some reason. I measured the screws to be exactly 1.2mm with a caliper.

** also remove the small Phillips screw fastening the WiFi antenna to the top rear casing of the phone

Möglicherweise muss man den Kleber zuerst entfernen!

What's this bracket called

%#*@, lost that part during the job, thought it’d be alright without it. Couple days later figured out NFC doesn’t work anymore. Any ideas on where to get this part from, colleagues?

What bit is this? The link doesn’t use the same name.

I didn’t even have an eyeglass repair kit flathead, so I hit the end of a paperclip with a hammer to make a flathead, and it works!

I received two boxes - one box contained the repair part, the other was the tool kit. I only opened the tool kit before disassembling the phone. The standoff screwdriver bit was not in there. Neither was the guitar pick. I used a real guitar pick and a small standard screwdriver from my toolbox. When I was ready to reassemble, I opened the repair part box and guess what was in there - the standoff screwdriver bit and guitar pick. So, I guess if you just order the part it will come with (at least) those two tools. The tool kit contains tweezers, suction cup, three screwdriver bits (tri-point, pentalobe, and phillips) and screwdriver handle, a long black spudger with a flat end and a pointy end, and a smaller, thicker spudger with a wide, flat ends.

The flat end of the spudger works a treat too.

Thank you, bronyar. Since there is a box labeled “Repair Tools”, I never would have looked in the parts box for tools. I was able to use the standoff tool to takie the phone apart, not just to put it back together.

I used standoff bit for iPhone from my pro tool kit

I accidentally broke the grounding bracket, is it very important to get a new one to replace? as I can't seem to find them for sale anywhere

also broken does it work without?

I broke mine while doing this step. A bit confusing. You’re just supposed to bend it out the way, not pull on it entirely. Will the phone still work without this?

$@$*, i broke the grounding bracket

I just didnt bend this one.. Ill tell you how it went

This is ‘hinged’ on the battery side.

For reassembly start here and work forwards. This connection is critical to successful placement of the lightning connector assembly which is glued to the back of the case.

The lowest standoff screw is different than others, so be careful when reinstaling them

Assurez-vous à cette étape (au moment du remontage) que le connecteur de l'antenne (que vous voyez à l’étape 35) est bien par dessus votre carte mère et qu’l n’est pas passé dessous !!!

Reassembly note: Remember to tuck the logic board under the logic board grounding bracket that we loosened in step #44.

Remember to remove the SIM card eject plunger (see step 47) or you may loose it seeing as there is no longer anything to stop it dropping out.

stick a small bit of sellotape over the sim card plunger hole to prevent it dropping out.

Reassembly note:

Peel up a couple centimeters of the lightening port and plug it in to the logic board *before* seating the logic board. Doing this, you can perfectly line up the connector and hold it to the board as you jimmy everything in to place. This makes the hardest part of the job a no-brainer.

Haven’t had any issues with any of the screws so far. Nothing stuck or even threatening to strip. Could it be that people are using the wrong driver bit and getting into trouble that way? You regularly have to swap between tri and normal 4 blade Phillips heads, best to double check each time.

Thread the screw through the spring contact before screwing it back in for an easier reassembly.

What’s the purpose of this contact? Is it just a ground?

Not sure but dont forget to place it

This step makes the whole guide invaluable! Those sneaky devils hide the screws perfectly!

I just ripped one.Never did a regular 7 thee only iPhone I’ve never done.Im pissd.Not sure if I should just pull another from a good phone or hook it up and see if it still works it looks like there grounding screws smh it’s only because for 2 years I had a used 7 housing I always bump into when going through my parts and whoever had that before me also ripped it but in both spots.So when the charge port wouldn’t come up I broke it smh

What are these connectors 4? I noticed a tiny chip next to the one on the right if you're looking at the phone face-to-face and on the backside of the charging port is some heavy circuitry for the left side... If the one on the right is broken what can a person expect their phone to do differently? Is this connector on the right hand side of the charging port attributed to anything specifically? Will my phone operate as normal without this?

It should be noted that these two 1.3 mm Phillips screws are different from the other 1.3 mm Philips screws removed in steps 16, 25, 33, and 41. All those screws are identical, but these two have a slightly wider shank so they won’t fit in the others’ bores.

I dropped one of these screws, never to be found again. The replacement port doesn’t work for me now - would this missing screw be the culprit, or is it something else?

I'm not able to remove these screws with the screwdriver Phillips that was used throughout the rest of this repair. How do I remove them safely?

When reassembling, the right microphone (the one on the left in the above picture) has a metal back that has two alignment tabs. One is on the bottom left, and if you just try to push the microphone down into position it will be held up by the tab. The tab is black plastic and not real apparent unless you have some decent light on it.

Everything popped out when I disassembled mine. I was able to get the spacers apart after the lightning connector was out. My kit came with new ones, but I just used the old ones. As the above comment states, there are alignment tabs on each one that are hard to see. Be sure to use the adhesive strips that come in the kit.

May I suggest not bothering to separate the microphone , and thus avoid dmage, ..juts release the rectangular foam as a complete assembly, its just stuck to the bottom of the case each side. less risky than trying to prize off the micro phones.

issues so far

Ive had one small glitch so far …one the anntenas, the one nearest the battery, came off its base. Im hoping to just reconnect to base to make a contact and secure after with a spot of glue each side…

This step was surprisingly hard - the plastic guitar pick was a bit finer and made it easier. Perhaps some heating helped as well?

I agree with Andrew - just taken the foam bits out and either replace with the new ones that come with the kit or swap over. My tip would be don’t reinsert them until you’ve got the lightning connector in place when reversing steps, as they get caught otherwise.

Could I use something like an hotel card instead?

Getting this thing out really wasn’t that big of a deal. Of note, if you’re also replacing the batter this is a good spot to put the new one in.

I'd go so far as to say line the holes up first before you secure the rest of that part. There is no room for error here!

Totally agree, it is absolutely paramount that it has to be perfect, as my three attempts at re-assembly can attest to!

I said this on step 49, but since you guys are mentioning it here, DEFINITELY plug the lightening port in to the logic board before seating the logic board. Then your exact placement doesn’t matter, as long as it’s relatively okay.

It would be nice to have tips for the best way to actually apply the adheasives on the lightning assembly to beat maintain proper positioning. Otherwise, great guide!

agreed!! I am staring at these tiny adhesive pieces and a bit stumped!!!

The gasket is a pain. I’m not even convinced I did it right. The guide stops here and lets you figure out the installation on your own. You can screw yourself if the new connector isn’t placed just right as the connector won’t align. Use the old adhesive areas as guides. I had to take my new part out and install it a second time to get the cable connected. I imagine the usual error is it is too high. The connector ribbon should bend down toward the case just above the connector. Seriously, millimeters count here.

I reconnected the battery to when putting the new sealer in then disconnected it before I reconnected the screen. New batteries come with a charge. It’s best to connect that last.

It would be good to have some additional steps explaining how to install the Speaker and Microphone Mesh Set that comes with the kit. I did appreciate that it was included but it took some fiddling around (and almost ruining the seals) before I figured out where the parts needed to go and still I ended up with 2 tiny black gaskets, that looked similar to the microphone gakets, that I couldn’t place and ended up not using. If they were important, I’ll find out soon I guess :D.

all this is great and all, but how do I reinstall all the stuff I took out of the phone. Am I seposed to scroll backward step for step from 64 to 1?

Amazing guide thanks so much! It would be great to show how to reattach the new lightning connector including the mesh bits etc as this is very hard to work backwards through particularly as it looks a bit different to the original

E muito demorado, mas pelo guia da para fazer direitinho.

Waste of two days, the new lightning connector was not recognized by the phone - it did not charge, but the speakers and mic worked fine. I then took it apart again and made sure everything was installed correctly.

Only now, the touch screen no longer works.

So I am back where I was was with a brick.

Awesome guide - my iphone 7 is like new again. BUT reassembly is definitely not simply disassembly in reverse. I found it very necessary to first connect the new lightning connector assembly to the logic board (Step 49) and then place and attach the logic board (Step 50) with the new assembly underneath before sticking the lightning connector assembly into place. If you first adhere the lightning connector assembly, there is zero chance that the logic board connector will be in the right place for connection to the logic board, which is screwed into place and has no freedom of movement. Also reassembly is twice as hard and takes much longer than disassembly.