이 번역은 원본 안내서의 최신 업데이트를 반영하지 않을 수 있습니다. 번역 업데이트를 돕거나 아니면 원본 안내서 보기를 참조하세요.
소개
iPhone X는 기본 loudspeaker/라우드 스피커와 earpiece/이어피스 스피커를 함께 사용하여 스테레오 사운드를 생성합니다. 이 안내서를 사용하여 휴대폰 하단의 기본 loudspeaker/라우드 스피커 만 교체하세요. 이 스피커를 교체하면 사운드 손실, 저하 및 왜곡 같은 문제를 해결하는데 도움이 됩니다.
필요한 것
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분해를 시작하기 전에 iPhone 전원을 꺼주세요.
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iPhone 하단 가장자리에 위치한 6.9mm-길이 pentalobe/펜타로브 나사 두 개를 빼주세요.
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iPhone 스크린 전체가 덮일 때까지 투명 포장 테이프를 겹쳐 붙이세요.
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만약 다음 몇 과정에서 흡입 컵이 스크린에 잘 붙지 않으면, 강력 테이프(덕트 테이프 등)를 접어 손잡이 형태로 만들어 붙이고 들어 올리세요.
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안티-클램프 사용법에 대한 전체 지침은 이 안내서를 확인하세요.
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파란색 손잡이를 뒤로 당겨 안티-클램프의 팔을 잠금 해제하세요.
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팔을 휴대폰의 왼편 또는 오른편 가장자리 위로 밀어 주세요.
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흡입 컵을 휴대폰의 하단 가장자리에 배치하세요—전면에 하나, 후면에 하나.
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적절한 위치에 컵을 함께 꽉 쥐고 흡착하세요.
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iOpener를 가열하여 안티-클램프의 팔에 끼워 넣습니다.
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iPhone 하단 가장자리에 놓이도록 iOpener를 접으세요.
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접착제가 풀려서 틈이 생길 때까지 1분 정도 기다리세요.
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스크린 자체가 아닌 스크린과 플라스틱 베젤 밑에 여는 픽을 끼우세요.
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다음 세 단계는 건너뛰세요.
DO NOT separate the glass from the plastic bumper or rim around it. These instructions don't clarify that the pick has to be inserted between the plastic rim and the metal body. It is likely that the glass will lift slightly off the plastic surround before the plastic will lift out of the metal body. I had success sliding a card or pick back and forth along the bottom edge of the plastic rim while pulling on the suction cup. Eventually there was a space large enough for the pick to go under the plastic rim.
Thanks for pointing this out! I'll revise this step to clarify this point.
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헤어 드라이어 또는 열선총, 혹은 iOpener를 준비하여 iPhone 하단 가장자리를 약 1분 동안 가열하면 접착제가 부드러워집니다.
General tip regarding heating necessary to remove adhesive:
consider using a heated tip of a small screwdriver or metal spudger (not the one made of plastic, provided in kit), rather than to heat the device itself.
You then need to be careful about the temp of the tool which if hot enough can melt plastic components or harm them. Keeping the heat source (heat gun) far enough away from the object that you’ll eventually melt the glue but would be much harder to melt components. I try to keep 4” or 5” gap between the source & object
Thanks for the info. Could a air convector do the job
If you have a 3d printer, heat the bed to 80c and put the phone screen side down on it for 30 secs
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단일 흡입 핸들을 사용하는 경우 유리의 구부러진 부분을 피하면서 휴대폰 하단 가장자리에 사용하세요.
If you were using some form of screen protector, it may come off first as soon as you pull on the suction cup. Do not be alarmed. That is normal behavior.
3m VSB double stick tape will stick to the screen when the suction cups fail (see my comment on step 1)
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흡입 컵을 확실하고 일정한 압력으로 위로 당겨 전면 패널과 후면 케이스 사이에 약간의 틈을 만드세요.
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스크린 자체가 아닌 스크린의 플라스틱 베젤 밑에 여는 픽을 끼우세요.
In addition to safety goggles, I would recommend you also wear good gloves to avoid getting cut with the glass as you try to pry it open.
The top about applying more heat and gently rocking the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive did the trick for me. Thank you!
Monil Shah - 답글
There needs to be more clarity on where to shove the opening pick into. There is actually two openings that the pry tool can be forced into: one below the black plastic bezel, and one above the black plastic bezel. When I heated my screen with a warming pad and pulled up the suction cup, it actually pried apart above the black plastic bezel which removed the touch screen from the display panel. With this being the first newer iPhone I'd opened since the 3GS, I didn't realize that I was opening the wrong opening as the directions only mentioned one opening and did not warn of this. I was pretty disappointed in the lack of mentioning this, as I was taking my time and following it to the tee. As a result, it destroyed my original iPhone screen.
DO NOT separate the glass from the plastic bumper or rim around it. As someone else noted, these instructions don't clarify that the pick has to be inserted between the plastic rim and the metal body of the phone. When pulling upwards with the suction cup, it is likely that the glass will lift slightly off the plastic surround before the plastic will lift out of the metal body. I had success sliding a card or pick back and forth along the bottom edge of the plastic rim while pulling on the suction cup. Eventually there was a space large enough for the pick to go under the plastic rim.
Thank you for pointing this out! I've updated the step to reflect this.
The suction cup doesn't work at all... The minimum force I apply to lift it up, it comes off completely. This is very frustrating!!!
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Wouldn’t it be better to put this part BEFORE the step where you have to pry open the phone?
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iPhone의 하단 가장자리에 픽을 다시 넣고 오른쪽 가장자리를 따라 위로 밀어서 접착제를 계속 분리하세요.
If you have flat feeler gauges (for adjusting engine valve tappet clearance, ignition points … old school) the .003” thick gauge goes right in. Work your way up in thickness until you can get the pic or supplied pry tool in. Don’t insert metal feeler gauge in too far, just enough to hold crack open. I didn’t need to use the suction cup. I used a hot/cold gel pack heated in microwave to heat edges to soften glue a bit. Made sure it wasn’t so hot I couldn’t stand it on my skin.
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Lightning 포트 방향으로 디스플레이를 조심히 당기거나 흔들면서 여는 픽으로 디스플레이 상단 모서리 주위를 밀어주세요.
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픽을 반대쪽 모서리로 밀고 디스플레이를 고정하는 나머지 접착제를 자르세요.
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책의 뒷 표지처럼 디스플레이를 왼편을 위로 펼쳐서 iPhone을 열어주십시오.
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휴대폰에 작업하는 동안 디스플레이를 다른 물건에 기대어 세워 놓으십시오.
My phone came apart in a different way and looks not right the little box at the top of the display as actually bolted to the top of the frame body I think something went really wrong when I opened it.
It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way — only as far as shown in the photo. Otherwise it will strain the thin cable that connects the sensor module and then no more FaceID for you (or, as it turns out me). This could have been made more explicit in the instructions.
It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way … the small stainless steel tabs that hold the screen around the metal frame, that are on the bend place (right side of the phone)… are tend to bend, you can straighten them back to 90 deg. but the plastic base that they are on? very fragile- watch out not to break the plastic bezel … it may come apart of the glass.
Advice for re-assembly: Before closing up the phone with the seal, check if phone is powering up again and speaker, mic and sensors are still working. If done this check even before installing the board connector bracket in Step 13.
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로직 보드 커넥터 브래킷을 고정하는 Y000 나사 다섯 개를 풀어주세요:
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1.1mm 나사 세 개
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3.1mm 나사 한 개
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3.7mm 나사 한 개
One thing I found helpful for replacing the screws was to use only the 000screwdriver tip, without the handle. This way, the tip isn’t magnetized and the screw doesn’t tend to ‘roll’ off the screwdriver tip (the screw has almost no mass, so the head (largest surface) is pulled around to the side of the screwdriver tip when magnetized).
Rich May 23, 2020
My 3.1mm screw had a stripped head, could not remove it. (Factory defect, this iPhone was never opened)
So I had to give up removing the display assembly, and jumped directly to battery replacement, Step 20.
That was tricky as I had to keep the display at 90º with a risk of breaking display connectors, but hopefully the replacement went well.
I would not recommend to do this but to follow the guide, but, in case someone encounters a similar issue, that could help!
Be careful on reassembly. Keep the screen supported and not moving. I had difficulty getting the screws in and ended up ruining the screen connectivity at the back of the screen where the ribbon cables go in near the center. I was trying to hand hold the screen and it ended up moving around too much.
SETH GREEN - 답글
To keep track of the screws, I copy the photos showing their places, then arrange these photos on document in Pages, print it. Next I apply two sided sticky tape (the roll-on type). So all screws have their corresponding places …
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브래킷을 분리하세요.
I tested it, then proceeded to close up the device without the bracket. Do I need to reopen and install? All connections are good?
The bracket helps those many connectors underneath maintain good contact. Probably in the short term nothing bad will happen, but I’d hang onto the bracket and reinstall it when convenient.
Agree with Jeff
cgtyoder -
for me, the replacement battery was completely dead, small panic when the power-on button was pressed, but quickly realised that this was the situation, and now watching the phone take a power cycle.
Before clicking the screen assembly back, I tried to test the iPhone by pushing the start button, but nothing happened. After taking off the bracket, reseating the plugs I tried again - nothing happened! Then I plugged in the charging cable connected with the iMac, and it started immediately. So if the phone does not start using the startup button, it might just be a glitch when reconnecting the battery.
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Spudger/스퍼저 또는 깨끗한 손톱으로 배터리 커넥터를 로직 보드의 커넥터 소켓에서 들어올리세요.
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수리 중에 실수로 소켓에 닿아 휴대폰에 전원이 공급되지 않도록 커넥터를 로직 보드에서 바깥쪽으로 약간 구부려 주세요.
cosa può succedere se non si disconnette la scheda logica'?
luca.valli - 답글
note: be careful not to crush or puncture your battery at this step!! I gave mine a minor dent, which I hope wont be a problem.. but something to keep in mind for fxlks in the future!
Thanks, already did it)
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Spudger/스퍼저를 사용하여 소켓에서 디지타이저 케이블 커넥터를 들어 올려 분리하세요.
This was probably the hardest part other than trying to get the screen off with the crappy suction cups. I re-installed the bracket only the find out that the touch screen would not respond to touch. Had to remove the five screws, remove the bracket and reseat the recessed screen connector. Reseating the bracket took another 10+ minutes. I carefully used the angled forceps to grab the cable and align the connector being careful not to damage the cable.
Once you have the connector seated, I would reconnect the battery, power on the phone, and check the touch screen response before re-installing the bracket (step 13).
Yeah, this was probably the trickiest part of the reassembly. The power connector cable kept getting in the way so I moved it carefully but fully out of the way. Then it was a matter of fiddling around with it a bit and being careful not to force it on.
I was positive that I had messed something up, I had powered up the phone to test three different times and everything seemed find except there was no touch at all. On my fourth attempt, I carefully examined everything for dust and debris (blowing gently), and I did notice that a corner of the connector (more like part of the ribbon) was bent slightly, and I straightened it. I don't know if it was the ribbon or some tiny debris, but after reseating a fourth time, it worked.
Pol Llovet - 답글
Very important part of the tutorial. Be careful and patience! In my case the screen and camera didn't respond after assemble, so I tried again to reconnect the connector like tutorial said and it worked well. Now my iPhone feel like a new one 💪🏼
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접착제가 분리될 때까지 케이블을 조심히 들어올리세요.
It is part of the face id part so yes. This is the ear piece too so if the ribbon tears there is a chance the ear piece will stop working as well.
Be super careful handling this ribbon particularly. I did a battery install and, when I was done, I had a phone with a new battery and no Face ID. That’s a $300 Apple repair, and no 3rd party shop will touch it. I believe the ribbon lays vertically (i.e., perpendicular to the “floor” of the phone, against the side edge of the battery. During the re-install, I must have forced the ribbon into position after seating the connector, causing fatal flexing of the ribbon. (Don’t know this for sure, but I see another comment saying that this cable is part of Face ID.) Anyway, bottom line: BE CAREFUL REMOVING AND REINSTALLING THIS RIBBON!
My flex cable was more than lightly adhered in place. I needed to use a guitar pic or similar to help encourage adhesive to separate. I wouldn’t pull too hard like shown in pictures unless you had just the right grip on the ribbon cable so as to avoid damaging flex cable. See note above (5/31/20)
Bizarre — it turns out my whole front panel sensor assembly came entire off of the front screen and is stuck to the logic board.
I also found the glue quite recluctant to release so I applied a second or two of heat using the wife's hair dryer which softened it and the cable lifted much easier then. Be careful not to apply too much heat though which could then impact other internal components.
LosBenitos - 답글
Cho ít cồn 90° vào để mềm keo dễ tháo
my iphone x doesn't have a front panel sensor? in fact, it looks completely different than the picture???
@kennethmcleod, most likely you've separated the screen frame from the screen itself. We see this most commonly when people neglect to remove the pentalobe screws next to the charging port. Usually the cure is to take out those screws, then repeat the screen removal process on the frame that's still attached to the phone.
You don't need to disconnect the front sensor to change the screen. Just leave it connected and remove from the screen side.
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디스플레이 어셈블리를 분리하세요.
I tried this and broke the cable can it still repair
CAUTION:
Removing the Taptic Engine or Speaker in next step is optional and the guide continues as this was per se needed.
Unnecessary work and also If you remove the speaker you lose the adhesive gasket and this is not included in the scope of delivery of the "Battery replacement" offering.
So do not remove and avoid losing waterproofing.
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Taptic Engine/탭틱 엔진 및 스피커 하단의 브래킷을 고정하는 나사 일곱 개를 풀어주세요:
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1.9mm Y000 나사 두 개
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1.2mm Y000 나사 한 개
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1.2mm Y000 나사 한 개
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2.4mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개
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1.7mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개
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1.5mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개
For battery replacement:
It is not necessary to remove Taptic Engine and speaker to replace a battery. Go straight to the step #33
Additional video: https://youtu.be/2GfBOlJEW10
I wish I seen this before I did all that! Thank you for that information. Next time I do something like this. I'm gonna pay more attention to the comments.
Removing the Taptic Engine and speaker greatly improves your chances of getting the battery adhesive strips out intact. If those break, you’ll have a much tougher time.
Boy, I tried to skip removing these items but was unable to get the glue strips out with them in place, not much to grab and tabs were kind of stuck to a seam in the battery, and hard to tell the difference between the seam and the strip tabs. For me I had to remove these items to get this done.
I stopped removing things after getting the display side off. There were 3 screws stripped on the speaker cover which wouldn't come out so I punted. Just pried the battery out with a smudger tool and some patience, starting at the top and working towards the bottom. New battery is in and working fine.
Andy Price - 답글
Thanks for not removing the following steps. this made me break the connector for the bottom speakers >:(
The screws color and quantities in list don’t match the schematic ! I wish i had a magnetic screw mat before starting, because not only i removed the Taptic Engine and speaker unnecessarily, but i also lost a screw ?
Does anyone know the purpose of this bracket "with grounding pads"? What would be the possible side effects if it was damaged or not connected properly during reassembly?
Sure would like to know WHY the warning "Be careful not to touch the three rows of grounding pads..." What would or could happen if I did touch them??
Removing the battery strips is a major PITA, just skip this step and everything onwards, remove the one strip on the top part of the battery (according to step 33) and for the bottom part of the battery, pry it off with a plastic spudger.
Yes, this is not the elegant solution, but the quickest and easiest one. This method is better, as you don't want to keep the old battery anyway, so why bother. (You must not puncture the battery though! But as long as you're only working with a plastic tool and are careful, nothing can happen from my experience.)
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스피커 커넥터 커버를 고정하는 2.1mm Y000 나사를 풀어주세요.
L'unique vis non?
Effectivement ;-) Merci pour les bons yeux et la remarque !
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Spudger/스퍼저 끝을 사용하여 스피커 커넥터를 들어 올려 분리하세요.
As mentioned in a comment by timblake2112 (see step 29), this step is not necessary and can be skipped skipped. I would advise you to do so, as removing your speaker is guaranteed to ruin your gasket and rubber seal. This will result in loss of water resistancy of your iPhone and could potentially harm the sound quality of your speaker.
Try removing the Taptic Engine without removing the speaker. It might still be possible removing the battery adhesive strips and your speaker will stay in its original condition.
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스피커의 측면 가장자리를 잡고 좌우로 흔들어 iPhone 하단 가장자리에 고정하는 접착제를 분리하세요.
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접착 개스킷이 분리될 때까지 스피커를 iPhone 하단 가장자리에서 당겨 주세요.
As mentioned in a comment by timblake2112 (see step 29), this step is not necessary and can be skipped skipped. I would advise you to do so, as removing your speaker is guaranteed to ruin your gasket and rubber seal. This will result in loss of water resistancy of your iPhone and could potentially harm the sound quality of your speaker.
Try removing the Taptic Engine without removing the speaker. It might still be possible removing the battery adhesive strips and your speaker will stay in its original condition.
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스피커를 분리하세요.
You don’t need to remove the speaker and ruin its gasket. You can wiggle and slide the taptic engine out without removing the speaker. I’ve done this twice on rear shell replacement jobs.
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새 교체 부품을 원래 부품과 비교하세요—설치하기 전에 원래 부품에서 남은 부품을 옮기거나 새 부품에서 접착 뒷면을 제거해야 할 수도 있습니다.
기기를 다시 조립하려면 위의 단계를 역순으로 따르세요.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 업체로 가져 가세요.
수리가 계획대로 진행되지 않았습니까? 문제 해결 도움말은 Answers 커뮤니티를 확인하세요.
새 교체 부품을 원래 부품과 비교하세요—설치하기 전에 원래 부품에서 남은 부품을 옮기거나 새 부품에서 접착 뒷면을 제거해야 할 수도 있습니다.
기기를 다시 조립하려면 위의 단계를 역순으로 따르세요.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 업체로 가져 가세요.
수리가 계획대로 진행되지 않았습니까? 문제 해결 도움말은 Answers 커뮤니티를 확인하세요.
다른 40명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
다음 번역가들에게 특별히 감사 드립니다:
92%
Christian Kim님은 저희가 세상을 수리하는데 동참하신 분입니다! 기여하시겠습니까?
번역 시작하기 ›
댓글 2개
Where would I apply B-7000 glue if I don’t have a replacement gasket?
There are 6.81mm long screws!
Daniel - 답글
One of the pentalobe screws is stripped :( - suggestions for how to get it out?
cgtyoder - 답글
same situation here
kaunomarcius - 답글
Same issue for me too, how do I get the stripped screw out?
patronics - 답글
Update: I was able to get the “stripped” screw out using another Pentalobe-2 screwdriver bit from another company. It seems it wasn’t the screw, but the screw driver that was actually stripped. Hence why the other screwdriver kit I got came with 3 of this bit, I suppose.
patronics - 답글
I ended up going to a jewelry store, and they drilled down into the screw, with of course an incredibly tiny bit. That allowed me to insert the P2 driver, and I was able to unscrew it at that point. Good luck!
cgtyoder - 답글
Same issue with the stripping. The tip of the iFixit P2 head in my $70 kit just ground off on the first screw and that was that. Not much you can do.
Kyle Harris - 답글
yes correct the same happened to me, the screws were perfect shaped never been open and as soon as i used the P2 it stripped the screws, seems like the P2 is slightly smaller but Dremel kit with a very small drill bits and precise knife tool is the way to go.
Dulce Vidal - 답글
This step in automatically followed through, without any thought. Why remove these screws? Can anybody explain? The Screen is detachable all the same, with them well screwed in…
Uri - 답글
These screws attach to a plate that’s part of the screen half of the phone. If you succeed in detaching the screen without removing those, it would seem reasonable that you will have damaged that plate or its ability to keep the two halves together.
Dan Long -
@Dan Long is right
Uri -
Clean out the pentalobe screw heads first so the tool goes all the way in. A small sewing needle works well to loosen any build up and then press some putty/chewing gum into the screw head and pull away quickly for a final clean out.
William Olstad - 답글
The this kit should include screws because you’re going to strip them. Can’t even get past step one. Did anybody figure this out
justin - 답글
Never opened my phone ever, when I went to look at the first step.. I noticed one of my screws was stripped. I thought it was impossible, but I removed the non stripped one, then once I got to the stripped one.. I learned my assumptions were correct. I bought this one straight from the apple site years ago ahaha Any tips to remove the stripped screw?
Clarence Williams - 답글
William Olstad's tip about cleaning the screws with a needle and a bit of poster putty worked well for me. There was a lot of crud in there! The opening is shallow, so it's easy to see how the screwdriver wouldn't catch with even a bit of grit in the way, No problem getting the pentalobe screws out with the ifixit screwdriver.
punkinann - 답글
If all else fails, very carefully cut a slot across the head of the screw with a Dremel tool using a diamond bit that dentist will gladly give you - I ask my dentist for used bits; and chuck them in a drill bit chuck designed for Dremel. The slot allows you to use a tiny, straight blade screwdriver. You can reuse the screw or replace it with a new pentalobe screw.
Dan Smith - 답글