이 번역은 원본 안내서의 최신 업데이트를 반영하지 않을 수 있습니다. 번역 업데이트를 돕거나 아니면 원본 안내서 보기를 참조하세요.
소개
iPhone 배터리는 사용에 따라 성능이 저하되며—시간이 지남에 따라 완전 충전 기능을 잃습니다. Apple 배터리는 80% 용량을 최대 500회 충전 사이클 동안 유지한다고 평가되며 일반 사용자에게는 약 18-24개월 정도입니다. 배터리의 화학적 특성이 저하되면 iPhone이 더 느리게 작동할 수 있습니다. 이 안내서를 사용하여 배터리를 교체하고 iPhone 성능을 최상으로 복원하십시오.
배터리가 부풀어 올랐으면 적절한 예방 조치를 취하십시오.
이 안내서는 배터리의 접착 스트립으로 잘 접근할 수 있도록 디스플레이를 완전히 떼어내고 아래편 스피커 및 Taptic Engine/탭틱 엔진을 분리하라고 지시합니다.
최적의 성능을 위하여 안내서를 따라 완료한 후 새로 설치된 배터리를 교정하십시오: 100%로 충전한 다음 최소 두 시간 이상 충전하십시오. 그다음에 배터리 부족으로 꺼질 때까지 iPhone을 사용하십시오. 마지막으로 중단없이 100%로 충전하십시오.
필요한 것
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분해를 시작하기 전에 iPhone 전원을 꺼주십시오.
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iPhone 하단 가장자리에 위치한 6.7mm-길이 pentalobe/펜타로브 나사 두 개를 빼주십시오.
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iPhone 스크린 전체가 덮일 때까지 투명 포장 테이프를 겹쳐 붙이세요.
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만약 다음 몇 과정에서 흡입 컵이 스크린에 잘 붙지 않으면, 강력 테이프(덕트 테이프 등)를 접어 손잡이 형태로 만들어 붙이고 들어 올리세요.
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파란색 손잡이를 뒤로 당겨 안티-클램프의 팔을 잠금 해제하세요.
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팔을 휴대폰의 왼편 또는 오른편 가장자리 위로 밀어 주세요.
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흡입 컵을 휴대폰의 하단 가장자리에 배치하세요—전면에 하나, 후면에 하나.
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적절한 위치에 컵을 함께 꽉 쥐고 흡착하세요.
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iOpener를 가열하여 안티-클램프의 팔에 끼워 넣습니다.
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iPhone 하단 가장자리에 놓이도록 iOpener를 접으세요.
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접착제가 풀려서 틈이 생길 때까지 1분 정도 기다리세요.
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스크린 자체가 아닌 스크린과 플라스틱 베젤 밑에 여는 픽을 끼우세요.
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다음 세 단계는 건너뛰세요.
Please UPDATE THIS STEP to say 'insert the opening pick underneath the PLASTIC FRAME OF THE SCREEN' and not the screen. Way too many people are taking this as the way to do it then posting their screen looks different when it's open when they've actually removed the screen leaving the frame in place. It's not rocket science.
Thanks for the suggestion! We updated this step to clarify that.
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헤어 드라이어 또는 열선총, 혹은 iOpener를 준비하여 iPhone 하단 가장자리를 약 1분 동안 가열하면 접착제가 부드러워집니다.
An alternative to the Iopener or heat gun is to heat water to EXACTLY 80 degrees F (cooking thermometer is great for this) and pour into a reinforced ziplock type bag. Leave the bag on the screen, but be sure that none of the hot water rests on the zipper portion, as the water is hot enough to soften that seal and leak out on to your device! This meat had is my personal favorite as the heat is distributed very equally and precisely as compared to a heat gun, but is more accessible than the Iopener.
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흡입 컵을 확실하고 일정한 압력으로 위로 당겨 전면 패널과 후면 케이스 사이에 약간의 틈을 만드세요.
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스크린 자체가 아닌 스크린과 플라스틱 베젤 밑에 여는 픽을 끼우세요.
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Opening pick/여는 픽을 iPhone 하단 왼쪽 모서리부터 왼쪽 가장자리를 따라 위로 밀어서 디스플레이를 제자리에 고정하는 접착제를 잘라주세요.
I think it's important to note that depending on how a screen was damaged, make sure to insert the pic under the black bezel directly under the actual screen. This bezel is a frame around the digitizer. I unknowingly inserted the pic between the bezel and the screen, and separated them both. I did this all the way around the phone. So I basically had to struggle to keep together two different sections of the display assembly because of this mishap, until I removed all the ribbon connectors. It made things much more difficult.
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iPhone의 하단 가장자리에 픽을 다시 끼우고 오른편 가장자리를 따라 위로 밀어서 접착제를 분리하세요.
My replacement screen for the XR has a black rim but it looks pink. Is that normal?
Step 11 says not to insert your pick around the right side to avoid damaging cables, then Step 12 says to insert it on the right side. Help, I'm confused!
Hi there!
Thank you for the feedback! The wording in step 11 was definitely ambiguous, so we have changed it! You only need to avoid the marked spots rather than the right edge.
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책의 뒷 표지처럼 디스플레이를 왼편을 위로 펼쳐서 iPhone을 열어주십시오.
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휴대폰에 작업하는 동안 디스플레이를 다른 물건에 기대어 세워 놓으십시오.
sure looks like the "hinge" is on the right hand side to me.. not left...!
Doug Trout - 답글
If you leave the suction cup attached to the screen during the “hinging” process, it makes for a very handy holder for the screen until it’s completely detached.
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배터리 커넥터 브래킷을 고정하는 1.2mm Y000 나사 3개를 빼주십시오.
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브래킷을 분리하십시오.
Definitely make sure all three lobes of your tool are aligned before use (it’s a little harder to tell with this style of bit) and apply even and adequate pressure to ensure it grabs as you spin the driver to prevent disfiguring the lobes/slot of the screw head.
Unfortunately my Y000 tool was perhaps not the best fit (tolerance a bit off) in these screws and I ended up stripping out the heads of all three of these. I started to panic but after I sanded the tip of my Y000 bit down a little with super fine grit (1000CW-C) sand paper to flatten the domed tip (visible with macro lens) and give it a bit more bite I was able to remove and reinstall without issue—in fact I had to remove and install them twice since I forgot my adhesive tape during reassembly, so the screws survived and the sanded bit worked.
+1 to above comment. I bought a cheap kit from Amazon and the Y000 screw driver is not good for this job. I’m concerned that I may have disfigured the heads and i type this comment in the midst of my fix :D Be gentle and assess if you can remove at least one screw with your driver before rummaging through all three and other similar screws holding display connector as well.
Shan Potti - 답글
Update to above comment. I got hold of a Y0.8 screw driver bit (lucky to find an ORIA screw driver kit in my office) and it works like wonders :) Now back to work…
Shan Potti - 답글
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디스플레이 커넥터 브래킷을 고정하는 1.2mm Y000 나사 두 개를 분리하십시오.
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브래킷을 분리하십시오.
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Spudger/스퍼저의 끝을 사용하여 디스플레이 케이블 커넥터를 분리하십시오.
The new display cable isn’t snapping in but I was just able to snap in the old one. Did I break the new one somehow?
Same it is really frustrating, just keeps slipping up and its bound to get damaged
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로직 보드 커넥터 브래킷을 후면 케이스에 고정하는 나사 다섯 개를 풀어주십시오.
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1.2mm Y000 나사 세 개
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1.5mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개
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1.3mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개
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브래킷을 분리하십시오.
I’m not sure it makes much if any difference, but we went ahead and swapped the order for you guys. Thanks for your comments!
I just repaired another XR, and you are right! It doesn’t make any differnerce in the order these screws come out. I still damaged this fragile piece. As I work on more of these, I’ll figure out a way to remove this screw without damaging the clip. For now everyone, just use extra caution when removing the 1.3mm phillips screw! Thanks Jeff
I’ve now done at least 6 of these so far and I have fairly consistent good results by taking the 2 Philips head screws out first, then doing the Y screws.
Stow -
Is this piece important for the repair if broken? I have broken it on a home repair. What is it used for? Is it a grounding connection or is it completely unimportant. More information needed please
I’m wondering that too. Is this piece important?
I can confirm that taking out the 1.3 mm screw first then the 1.5 mm screw works the best. If done correctly, you should be able to to remove the rest of the screws and pull the panel off with the clip still attached to the panel. For reassembly, start with the 1.5 mm screw then the 1.3 mm screw.
I don’t remove the small screw at all. I just slide out the metal cover plate and slide back in to reassemble.
this is what i have done as well. Care is still needed to avoid damaging this part. However, it is seemingly far less prone to damage or loss and thus less risky for this repair process.
I too broke this shield. In looking over this problem I believe it’s best to loosen, but not remove, either screw first then the other. To be clear, loosen the red or yellow screw but only just to break it free, then the second screw. Then remove both and the others and the shield should remain in one piece. I put it back with the broken part (on the red screw) and made sure the two are in contact so there’s conductivity as these shields serve a purpose other than just holding in connectors. My phone works fine with this fix.
Is this small bracket important if broken??
Mine is broken
Mine is broken and my apple pay doesn’t work. Something to do with NFC antenna this little clip??
I'm guessing so. I replaced a screen on a phone I bought from a friend. I noticed this bracket was broken when I disassembled the phone but didn't think much of it. When I reassembled it my NFC also does not work. Bummer. A lot of people in these comments have asked if it is crucial that this bracket be connected. Can someone from iFixit or other please reply to those comments?
Kyaw-Zin is right because the shield contains of two tin parts. But there is another option:
1. Unscrew the yellow and orange screws first.
2. Lift the shield gently that it can turn about 20° anticlockwise.
3. Open the red screw and let the shield turn with it the first degrees.
The first time I did this repair, I didn’t see the comments ahead of time and broke the bracket, even removing the 1.3mm screws first. The second time I did the repair, I was prepared and being extra careful, but the simple act of turning the 1.3mm screw head was enough to break it. If I ever have to do this repair again, I’ll just leave the screw in and try to slide the plate out with the screw (and bracket, hopefully) still in tact, as per Kyaw-Zin Win.
None of the screw driver bits I got fits the 1.3mm and 1.5mm screws. How do I remove them?
Same issue as above. The bits provided in the kit do not work with the 1.3mm and 1.5mm screws
Further to above comment about bit not working. Had to go and purchase another PH000 from Home Depot and that worked
I’ve broken that little bracket attached to the red screw. Is it important and can I get a replacement????? Thanks all
steve.arfa - 답글
Broken the clip. Is this important??
Don't remove the 1.3 Phillips screw! Twisting this screw will break the smaller bracket that is clipped to the larger. Remove all the other screws. Block the smaller bracket from moving as you gently slide the larger bracket horizontally toward the battery until free. The smaller bracket can stay in place while the screen is replaced. When reassembling, support the small bracket by backing with a spudger or similar tool.
I just broke the smaller bracket also :( I didn´t notice these comments until now :(
It looks like part of the antenna for NFC, as all except NFC works on my iPhone now.
It should be repairable using some wire wrap wire, either twisted around the two screws that connected that part of the bracket (or soldered in place). I will try and report back if it works.
Success!! I managed to re-construct the small arm of the bracket by screwing the 1.3mm screw back in with some 0.3mm enamel wire soldered into what was left of the small bracket arm on the screw, then the other end of the enamel wire I wrapped under the 1.5 wire screw's head (enamel exposed to bare metal), then screwed both screws down. also I lifted up the small metal arm with a screw driver (to make sure it reconnects with the display grounding square) ..and NFC worked again (slightly different antenna pattern mind (need to place cards slightly higher up the rear of the phone). Anyway works again :)
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Spudger/스퍼저의 끝을 사용하여 전면 센서 어셈블리 커넥터를 소켓에서 들어 올려 주십시오.
During testing, make sure your proximity sensor is not on upside down, as it’s easy to connect upside down. Your phone will boot loop if it’s on incorrectly.
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디스플레이 어셈블리를 분리하십시오.
unclear if this is where screen removal ends
I had the same question, but the answer is yes. Steps 21-30 are removing parts from the original screen that need to be reattached onto the new screen. You are no longer working inside the frame, but on the back of the screen itself.
I apologize for missing these comments initially, but yes that’s correct, the screen is removed now and the rest of the guide goes on to other parts, either in the phone or on the back of the screen. Good luck with the repair!
The alternate method of removing the battery should be highlighted as a standard option. There is so much more work and potential to damage the parts than if you left them in place and carefully with plenty of heat remove the battery. I so wish I had seen this before!
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Taptic engine/탭틱 엔진 및 스피커 아래 브래킷을 고정하는 일곱 개의 나사를 분리하십시오.
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Phillips/필립스 1.4mm 나사 세 개
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Phillips/필립스 1.7mm 나사 두 개
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Phillips/필립스 1.9mm 나사 한 개
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Phillips/필립스 1.6mm 나사 한 개
Why remove all this stuff for the battery? Is it necessary to do any of steps from here to 32 for the battery at all?
Removing these parts facilitates removing the bottom adhesive tabs but is not necessary. If you remove the upper adhesive tabs, then heat the backside of the lower ones (which you do if you couldn't get the tabs out), the battery comes out easily. Removes 14 steps from this procedure.
teamhudson - 답글
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하단 스피커를 고정하는 나사 다섯 개를 분리하십시오:
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2.8mm 스탠드오프 나사 한 개
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2.3mm 스탠드오프 나사 한 개
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2.3mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개
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1.8mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개
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1.6mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개
I was able to get the 2.8mm standoff screw out with a 1.5 mm flat head from my iFixit kit but was not able to find anything to get the 2.3mm screw out. Buying the standoff screwdriver begrudgingly. I wish I'd known about this before I started.
leeprobert - 답글
Recommend PH00 for the 1.8 and PH000 for the rest.
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스피커를 분리하십시오.
you may be able to reuse the gasket if you heat the glue. You may want to consider this because I can’t find the gasket through ifixit.
do we have to remove all the extra stuff such as this if we're just replacing screen display? what is the importance?
If you want to get the surface prepped nicely, tightly roll up the corner of a KimTech wipe, add some IP, then gently use your spudger tip to wipe excess gasket material from the area. Take your time!
Tal Pipkin - 답글
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첫 번째 배터리 접착 탭을 배터리의 오른편 하단에서 벗겨냅니다.
Yes I think this is very discouraged to use tweezers to do this task (like it is shown on the picture), applying a force to pull the adhesives can easily result in an unintended action on the battery. These adhesive do generally break anyway. Better use the dental floss solution as mentioned in step 41.
Welp fellas extra careful on this part, I wasn't enough and punctured the battery which led to a small fire reaction, luckily with only 15% of charge it barely did anything. EXTRA CAREFUL I REPEAT TAKE IT SLOW
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접착 스트립이 끊어지고 배터리가 후면 케이스에 붙어 있으면 iOpener를 준비하거나 헤어 드라이기를 사용하여 후면 케이스 배터리 바로 뒤를 가열하십시오. 열은 접착제를 부드럽게 하는데 도움이됩니다.
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iPhone을 뒤집어 놓고 배터리 아래에 강한 줄 (치실 또는 얇은 기타 줄)을 끼워주십시오.
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톱질 동작으로 배터리 길이를 따라 끈을 좌우로 잡아 당겨 접착제를 분리하십시오. 접착제는 느리게 변형되기 때문에 다소 시간이 걸릴 수 있지만 인내심을 갖고 견디면 떨어질 것입니다. 배터리를 변형시키거나 손상시키지 마십시오.
Personally, I would recommend using drops of isopropyl alcohol. This softens most kind of sticky things. Then pry the battery out. Since you're replacing the battery, damaging it shouldn't be a worry.
As long as you don't puncture it as i did lol
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iPhone에서 배터리를 떼어내십시오.
Changed the Battery but the new battery shows Service symbol..what to do?
Just replaced the battery, but the new one is draining like crazy. Even faster then the old one? Did I get a faulty battery?
I might have the same issue ill try calibrating it and force restarting.
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새 교체 부품을 원래 부품과 비교하십시오—설치하기 전에 남아있는 부품을 옮기거나 새 부품에서 접착 백킹을 제거해야 할 수 있습니다.
기기를 재조립하려면 위의 단계를 역순으로 수행하십시오.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 센터로 가져가십시오.
수리가 계획대로 진행되지 않았습니까? 자사의Answers 커뮤니티를 확인하십시오.
새 교체 부품을 원래 부품과 비교하십시오—설치하기 전에 남아있는 부품을 옮기거나 새 부품에서 접착 백킹을 제거해야 할 수 있습니다.
기기를 재조립하려면 위의 단계를 역순으로 수행하십시오.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 센터로 가져가십시오.
수리가 계획대로 진행되지 않았습니까? 자사의Answers 커뮤니티를 확인하십시오.
다른 110명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
다음 번역가들에게 특별히 감사 드립니다:
63%
Christian Kim님은 저희가 세상을 수리하는데 동참하신 분입니다! 기여하시겠습니까?
번역 시작하기 ›
댓글 12개
Hello and Good morning please I wanted to know if iPhone 8 battery can be fixed in iPhone XR?
Not sure what you’re asking; if your asking if the iPhone 8 battery will fit in an Xr, or vise-versa, the answer is no.
After battery replacement, battery health is disabled. Will a factory reset reenable the battery health?
Hi Jon,
Unfortunately, Apple disables battery health for non-Apple battery repairs. I’ll make sure to add this into the guide intro.
What about the constant repeating message that “could not check if battery is genuine”. Does it stop showing up on the screen?
After you clear the message it will only come up again when the iPhone is restarted.
The step by step guide shows and tells you in detail how to take it out and how to replace it.
Instructions were clear enough, though lengthy and often redundant. I disassembled my phone, replaced the battery, and closed it up in about two hours (first-timer).
For the love of God, iFixit, you need to do a much better job linking videos for procedures like replacing screen adhesive in your instructions. I eventually found one for applying the adhesive, but it was still little confusing so I looked at your YouTube video. That video, is no longer even relevant because the procedure shown in the video does not match with the current adhesive kit you see. Or, at least, sure doesn't look the same.
Anyway, I encourage anybody trying this to purchase and extra screen adhesive or two. you'll probably need them.
this is before i buy the battery replacement kit, i was wondering if i need to buy the adhesive battery strips or if it comes with the kit
Hey, Danke für die ausführliche Anleitung. Es ist nicht der erste Akku, den ich in einem iPhone tausche und ich komme immer gut mit den Anleitungen klar.
Ich hätte eine Bitte / Empfehlung falls ihr diese oder andere Anleitungen zu neueren iPhones nochmal aktualisiert:
Ich vermute es geht nicht nur mir so, dass es relativ komplex ist, die neue Klebedichtung richtig zu befestigen. Hierfür wären Tipps und ggf. Bilder hilfreich..
One of my gaskets was as shown in your second photo, the other had been worked into the threads (as if smeared) probably from the factory and was completely unusable.
In place of replacements (unsure of where to purchase) I just used a clear silicone caulking on both screws upon reassembly to offer at least some water seal. I wish these gaskets were included with the gasket waterproofing sealant kit!
Erica - 답글
Is there any place to buy these screw gaskets? I haven’t seen it mentioned anywhere but one of mine was pretty much chewed up. Silicone should work but I’d prefer the oem solution.
Chilinh Nguyen - 답글
I found a place on Amazon that sells them. It's cheapest to get a full set of screws than to get just these. $5-$6 USD.
J Olin -
Can it be dead?
Lulu navarro - 답글
If I transfer the data from the old to the new battery with an icopy, don't I get an error message?
David Julian Krause - 답글
how am i supposed to know if the battery is below 25% if the screen won't turn on?
Beth Jackson - 답글