이 번역은 원본 안내서의 최신 업데이트를 반영하지 않을 수 있습니다. 번역 업데이트를 돕거나 아니면 원본 안내서 보기를 참조하세요.
소개
이 안내서의 단계를 좇아 iPhone XR 이어피스 스피커와 전면 센서 어셈블리를 분리, 이동 및/또는 교체하십시오. 이 어셈블리는 이어피스 스피커, 마이크, 주변 광 센서, 플러드 일루미네이터 및 근접 센서를 포함합니다.
이 어셈블리는 개별 iPhone과 페어링되어 출고됩니다 그러므로 디스플레이를 교체할 때 기존 디스플레이에서 새 디스플레이로 옮겨야 합니다.
플러드 일루미네이터는 생체 인식 Face ID 보안 기능 중 하나이며 원래 부품이 손상되거나 잘못 설치되면 Face ID 작동이 중단됩니다. 새 부품으로 교체할 경우 Face ID 작동이 중단될 수 있으므로 이 과정에서 이러한 부품이 손상되지 않도록 특별히 주의하여 주십시오. 손상된 경우 Apple 만이 Face ID 기능을 복원할 수 있습니다.
필요한 것
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분해를 시작하기 전에 iPhone 전원을 꺼주십시오.
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iPhone 하단 가장자리에 위치한 6.7mm-길이 pentalobe/펜타로브 나사 두 개를 빼주십시오.
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iPhone 스크린 전체가 덮일 때까지 투명 포장 테이프를 겹쳐 붙이세요.
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만약 다음 몇 과정에서 흡입 컵이 스크린에 잘 붙지 않으면, 강력 테이프(덕트 테이프 등)를 접어 손잡이 형태로 만들어 붙이고 들어 올리세요.
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:Anti-Clamp$24.95
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파란색 손잡이를 뒤로 당겨 안티-클램프의 팔을 잠금 해제하세요.
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팔을 휴대폰의 왼편 또는 오른편 가장자리 위로 밀어 주세요.
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흡입 컵을 휴대폰의 하단 가장자리에 배치하세요—전면에 하나, 후면에 하나.
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적절한 위치에 컵을 함께 꽉 쥐고 흡착하세요.
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iOpener를 가열하여 안티-클램프의 팔에 끼워 넣습니다.
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iPhone 하단 가장자리에 놓이도록 iOpener를 접으세요.
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접착제가 풀려서 틈이 생길 때까지 1분 정도 기다리세요.
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스크린 자체가 아닌 스크린과 플라스틱 베젤 밑에 여는 픽을 끼우세요.
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다음 세 단계는 건너뛰세요.
Please UPDATE THIS STEP to say 'insert the opening pick underneath the PLASTIC FRAME OF THE SCREEN' and not the screen. Way too many people are taking this as the way to do it then posting their screen looks different when it's open when they've actually removed the screen leaving the frame in place. It's not rocket science.
Thanks for the suggestion! We updated this step to clarify that.
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헤어 드라이어 또는 열선총, 혹은 iOpener를 준비하여 iPhone 하단 가장자리를 약 1분 동안 가열하면 접착제가 부드러워집니다.
An alternative to the Iopener or heat gun is to heat water to EXACTLY 80 degrees F (cooking thermometer is great for this) and pour into a reinforced ziplock type bag. Leave the bag on the screen, but be sure that none of the hot water rests on the zipper portion, as the water is hot enough to soften that seal and leak out on to your device! This meat had is my personal favorite as the heat is distributed very equally and precisely as compared to a heat gun, but is more accessible than the Iopener.
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흡입 컵을 확실하고 일정한 압력으로 위로 당겨 전면 패널과 후면 케이스 사이에 약간의 틈을 만드세요.
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스크린 자체가 아닌 스크린과 플라스틱 베젤 밑에 여는 픽을 끼우세요.
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Opening pick/여는 픽을 iPhone 하단 왼쪽 모서리부터 왼쪽 가장자리를 따라 위로 밀어서 디스플레이를 제자리에 고정하는 접착제를 잘라주세요.
I think it's important to note that depending on how a screen was damaged, make sure to insert the pic under the black bezel directly under the actual screen. This bezel is a frame around the digitizer. I unknowingly inserted the pic between the bezel and the screen, and separated them both. I did this all the way around the phone. So I basically had to struggle to keep together two different sections of the display assembly because of this mishap, until I removed all the ribbon connectors. It made things much more difficult.
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iPhone의 하단 가장자리에 픽을 다시 끼우고 오른편 가장자리를 따라 위로 밀어서 접착제를 분리하세요.
My replacement screen for the XR has a black rim but it looks pink. Is that normal?
Step 11 says not to insert your pick around the right side to avoid damaging cables, then Step 12 says to insert it on the right side. Help, I'm confused!
Hi there!
Thank you for the feedback! The wording in step 11 was definitely ambiguous, so we have changed it! You only need to avoid the marked spots rather than the right edge.
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책의 뒷 표지처럼 디스플레이를 왼편을 위로 펼쳐서 iPhone을 열어주십시오.
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휴대폰에 작업하는 동안 디스플레이를 다른 물건에 기대어 세워 놓으십시오.
sure looks like the "hinge" is on the right hand side to me.. not left...!
Doug Trout - 답글
If you leave the suction cup attached to the screen during the “hinging” process, it makes for a very handy holder for the screen until it’s completely detached.
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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배터리 커넥터 브래킷을 고정하는 1.2mm Y000 나사 3개를 빼주십시오.
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브래킷을 분리하십시오.
Definitely make sure all three lobes of your tool are aligned before use (it’s a little harder to tell with this style of bit) and apply even and adequate pressure to ensure it grabs as you spin the driver to prevent disfiguring the lobes/slot of the screw head.
Unfortunately my Y000 tool was perhaps not the best fit (tolerance a bit off) in these screws and I ended up stripping out the heads of all three of these. I started to panic but after I sanded the tip of my Y000 bit down a little with super fine grit (1000CW-C) sand paper to flatten the domed tip (visible with macro lens) and give it a bit more bite I was able to remove and reinstall without issue—in fact I had to remove and install them twice since I forgot my adhesive tape during reassembly, so the screws survived and the sanded bit worked.
+1 to above comment. I bought a cheap kit from Amazon and the Y000 screw driver is not good for this job. I’m concerned that I may have disfigured the heads and i type this comment in the midst of my fix :D Be gentle and assess if you can remove at least one screw with your driver before rummaging through all three and other similar screws holding display connector as well.
Shan Potti - 답글
Update to above comment. I got hold of a Y0.8 screw driver bit (lucky to find an ORIA screw driver kit in my office) and it works like wonders :) Now back to work…
Shan Potti - 답글
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디스플레이 커넥터 브래킷을 고정하는 1.2mm Y000 나사 두 개를 분리하십시오.
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브래킷을 분리하십시오.
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Spudger/스퍼저의 끝을 사용하여 디스플레이 케이블 커넥터를 분리하십시오.
The new display cable isn’t snapping in but I was just able to snap in the old one. Did I break the new one somehow?
Same it is really frustrating, just keeps slipping up and its bound to get damaged
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로직 보드 커넥터 브래킷을 후면 케이스에 고정하는 나사 다섯 개를 풀어주십시오.
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1.2mm Y000 나사 세 개
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1.5mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개
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1.3mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개
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브래킷을 분리하십시오.
I’m not sure it makes much if any difference, but we went ahead and swapped the order for you guys. Thanks for your comments!
I just repaired another XR, and you are right! It doesn’t make any differnerce in the order these screws come out. I still damaged this fragile piece. As I work on more of these, I’ll figure out a way to remove this screw without damaging the clip. For now everyone, just use extra caution when removing the 1.3mm phillips screw! Thanks Jeff
I’ve now done at least 6 of these so far and I have fairly consistent good results by taking the 2 Philips head screws out first, then doing the Y screws.
Stow -
Is this piece important for the repair if broken? I have broken it on a home repair. What is it used for? Is it a grounding connection or is it completely unimportant. More information needed please
I’m wondering that too. Is this piece important?
I can confirm that taking out the 1.3 mm screw first then the 1.5 mm screw works the best. If done correctly, you should be able to to remove the rest of the screws and pull the panel off with the clip still attached to the panel. For reassembly, start with the 1.5 mm screw then the 1.3 mm screw.
I don’t remove the small screw at all. I just slide out the metal cover plate and slide back in to reassemble.
this is what i have done as well. Care is still needed to avoid damaging this part. However, it is seemingly far less prone to damage or loss and thus less risky for this repair process.
I too broke this shield. In looking over this problem I believe it’s best to loosen, but not remove, either screw first then the other. To be clear, loosen the red or yellow screw but only just to break it free, then the second screw. Then remove both and the others and the shield should remain in one piece. I put it back with the broken part (on the red screw) and made sure the two are in contact so there’s conductivity as these shields serve a purpose other than just holding in connectors. My phone works fine with this fix.
Is this small bracket important if broken??
Mine is broken
Mine is broken and my apple pay doesn’t work. Something to do with NFC antenna this little clip??
I'm guessing so. I replaced a screen on a phone I bought from a friend. I noticed this bracket was broken when I disassembled the phone but didn't think much of it. When I reassembled it my NFC also does not work. Bummer. A lot of people in these comments have asked if it is crucial that this bracket be connected. Can someone from iFixit or other please reply to those comments?
Kyaw-Zin is right because the shield contains of two tin parts. But there is another option:
1. Unscrew the yellow and orange screws first.
2. Lift the shield gently that it can turn about 20° anticlockwise.
3. Open the red screw and let the shield turn with it the first degrees.
The first time I did this repair, I didn’t see the comments ahead of time and broke the bracket, even removing the 1.3mm screws first. The second time I did the repair, I was prepared and being extra careful, but the simple act of turning the 1.3mm screw head was enough to break it. If I ever have to do this repair again, I’ll just leave the screw in and try to slide the plate out with the screw (and bracket, hopefully) still in tact, as per Kyaw-Zin Win.
None of the screw driver bits I got fits the 1.3mm and 1.5mm screws. How do I remove them?
Same issue as above. The bits provided in the kit do not work with the 1.3mm and 1.5mm screws
Further to above comment about bit not working. Had to go and purchase another PH000 from Home Depot and that worked
I’ve broken that little bracket attached to the red screw. Is it important and can I get a replacement????? Thanks all
steve.arfa - 답글
Broken the clip. Is this important??
Don't remove the 1.3 Phillips screw! Twisting this screw will break the smaller bracket that is clipped to the larger. Remove all the other screws. Block the smaller bracket from moving as you gently slide the larger bracket horizontally toward the battery until free. The smaller bracket can stay in place while the screen is replaced. When reassembling, support the small bracket by backing with a spudger or similar tool.
I just broke the smaller bracket also :( I didn´t notice these comments until now :(
It looks like part of the antenna for NFC, as all except NFC works on my iPhone now.
It should be repairable using some wire wrap wire, either twisted around the two screws that connected that part of the bracket (or soldered in place). I will try and report back if it works.
Success!! I managed to re-construct the small arm of the bracket by screwing the 1.3mm screw back in with some 0.3mm enamel wire soldered into what was left of the small bracket arm on the screw, then the other end of the enamel wire I wrapped under the 1.5 wire screw's head (enamel exposed to bare metal), then screwed both screws down. also I lifted up the small metal arm with a screw driver (to make sure it reconnects with the display grounding square) ..and NFC worked again (slightly different antenna pattern mind (need to place cards slightly higher up the rear of the phone). Anyway works again :)
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Spudger/스퍼저의 끝을 사용하여 전면 센서 어셈블리 커넥터를 소켓에서 들어 올려 주십시오.
During testing, make sure your proximity sensor is not on upside down, as it’s easy to connect upside down. Your phone will boot loop if it’s on incorrectly.
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디스플레이 어셈블리를 분리하십시오.
unclear if this is where screen removal ends
I had the same question, but the answer is yes. Steps 21-30 are removing parts from the original screen that need to be reattached onto the new screen. You are no longer working inside the frame, but on the back of the screen itself.
I apologize for missing these comments initially, but yes that’s correct, the screen is removed now and the rest of the guide goes on to other parts, either in the phone or on the back of the screen. Good luck with the repair!
The alternate method of removing the battery should be highlighted as a standard option. There is so much more work and potential to damage the parts than if you left them in place and carefully with plenty of heat remove the battery. I so wish I had seen this before!
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스피커/센서 어셈블리를 디스플레이 뒷면에 고정하는 나사 네 개를 빼주십시오:
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1.6mm Phillips/십자 나사 두 개
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2.3mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개
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1.2mm Y000 나사 한 개
Do you really need to do step 21-30, because it says to replace, do it in reverse. Which means you are taking the components off and putting them back on without touching the screen? sorry if this is a dumb question, i’ve never done this before.
Good question! It depends on which guide you are completing. If you are replacing the screen, you do need to complete steps 21-30, in order to remove the front assembly and transfer it to your replacement screen. The front assembly contains the Face ID hardware, which is biometrically linked to the logic board.
Now, if you are completing other guides, you may not need to remove the front assembly. Guides should have the steps slotted in only if they are pertinent to the procedure.
I had the same question, but the answer is yes. Steps 21-30 are removing parts from the original screen that need to be reattached onto the new screen. You are no longer working inside the frame, but on the back of the screen itself.
Im reassembling and notice there are no threaded screw holes to secure the speaker/sensor assembly on the new display. no way to secure it at all. Do i not need to secure it?
Hi Ashley,
There should definitely be screw holes to secure the assembly to the new display. If you purchased the part from iFixit, please contact our customer support, and we will sort things out for you!
Please contact our customer support and we will get the issue resolved!
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핀셋을 사용하여 스피커 어셈블리를 조심히 뒤집어—디스플레이 상단 가장자리에서 멀리하십시오.
I don’t understand. It clearly appears that one should stop disassembling after this step. Peeling off the tape here should provide access to the solder connections. Why remove a bunch of other adhered parts? ESD concerns?
Of course, taking care not to transmit heat to the screen assembly below would be prudent. But it’s unlikely much if any heat would conduct even without using any sort of insulating spacer, assuming one’s soldering technique is acceptable. With a thermal mass that small, overheating the connection is the big concern. Especially since it is lead-free solder.
(It has a high melting point. If you didn’t already know that, this is definitely not the best project to develop your soldering skills! You can still do it, but should def practice on similar connections until you feel proficient. Lifting a pad or overheating a nearby component are both dangers. Yet, the cost of the part is low enough you could buy two (just in case) and still come out ahead of Apple’s fee. Use flux or you’ll struggle!)
Ryan Lewis - 답글
Hey Ryan,
You are right in that after this step, you could de-solder and replace the earpiece individually, if you choose to do some careful de-soldering and soldering. Alas, not everyone has the background and skill to do so! By instructing users to replace the complete assembly, we bypass the need to solder, and allow a wider audience to successfully complete the repair.
When reassembling or placing the whole sensor module on a replacement screen, make sure to gently rock the speaker back into place. There is a rubber gasket lip around the speaker that must be seated all of the way against the screen and speaker grill to function properly. You should feel a gentle click when is goes in. If is not seated correctly it still easily can be screwed in making it difficult to tell if the speaker is in correctly.
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센서를 고정하는 접착제를 부드럽게하기 위하여 헤어 드라이어, 히트 건 또는 가열된 iOpener를 디스플레이 상단 전면에 약 일 분 동안 사용하십시오.
Review steps 24-29 prior to doing this. Step 27 shows removing ambient sensor. It is attached….barely…to the rest of this assembly. I thought I was being overly cautions, and it still broke. Don’t be afraid to use heat. Do not force. Any resistance, do not force it.. Heat it up and then try. Other than that, sound and camera works fine, and it appears that FaceID works. Not my phone, so I can’t test that part without unlocking customer’s phone. No error messages appeared, so Im assuming all is good. With the touch home button on older models, if touch wouldn’t work, you’d receive a message as soon as you booted the phone up. OK.. That’s enough. Just be careful over the next 5 steps..
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여는 픽을 플렉스 케이블 및 근접 센서 + 플러드 일루미네이터 아래에서 왼쪽에서 오른쪽으로 밀어주십시오.
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조심히 흔들면서 들어 올려 전면 패널 노치에서 모듈을 분리하여 주십시오.
what happens if the metal plate from the sensor separates from the flood illuminator module?
At this point I thought looking at the image that I was lifting the speaker away and tore off the thin cable completely unaware. Please read and view the next two instruction stages before doing this one and then come back and ensure you keep the speaker very close to the screen as you do it.
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핀셋을 사용하여 작은 브래킷을 똑바로 밀어 올려 주변 광 센서에서 분리하십시오.
I tore the ribbon cable that connects to the light sensor, what do I do? will the phone work even if the sensor doesn’t?
I gave up trying to get the clip back on. Appears to function properly without it.
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핀셋을 사용하여 주변 광 센서를 흔들고 디스플레이 노치에서 들어 올려 주십시오.
On picture two, the thin transparent thread between the sensor and the display is not the “very thin flex cable” they are talking about but just some glue remains. In my case this thread of glue was sticking onto the sensor in the exact same way which made me suspicious at first.
Konstantin - 답글
The top part of the ambient light sensor easily breaks off from the bottom part. In that case do not despair. Pry the stuck part from the old display and transfer it to the new display. Put the assembly back together without glue. It should hold together just fine. Usually the auto brightness feature will still work.
I broke the flex cable from the light sensor that connects to the rest. Anything I can do?
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이어피스 스피커 및 전면 센서 어셈블리를 분리하십시오.
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근접 센서
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플러드 일루미네이터
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이런 부품이 접착제에 막히지 않도록 모듈을 배치하여 주십시오.
To replace just the earspeaker, you will have to re-use the the flex assembly which is soldered to the earspeaker…….
the 2 solder connection are hidden under a tiny piece of thin black tape, on the underside of the speaker.
Alan Sears - 답글
Before attaching the sensor module to your replacement screen, ensure there is nothing blocking the earpiece screen on the new screen part. Mine had a mfg defect or something where there was a black foam like film on the outside of the speaker grill that I couldn’t remove with tape or sticky putty. I had to blow through the back of the grill with a computer duster compressed air can. Otherwise the call volume via the earpiece is extremely low, even when turned to max volume.
Hey there, if I have an iPhone bit damage and I remove the top speaker and sensor and put it on my other iPhone XR. Will it work? It is original iPhone XR and please let me know
The Face ID hardware is paired to the logic board and will not work if you transfer the front sensor assembly. Everything else should work.
super gemacht , danke der olli
The iPhone XR Screen Replacement Kit comes with an adhesive replacement on a blue plastic sheet. I didn’t know what this was and thought it was just protection for the screen during shipping.
Don’t throw it out - At this step 29 remove the old adhesive using this guide -> iPhone 디스플레이 접착제 교체
Don’t be dumb like me.
I would definitely add a step at the end –
30) Replace the adhesive seal -> iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement.You need to use an EEPROM programmer. This will read code from the old screen to the new screen (assuming the replacement screen is of decent quality and supports True Tone programming). Check out YouTube and you will find plenty of information on how to do this. It really should be mentioned in screen replacement guides/videos, that if you just replace the screen without this specialist equipment, the True Tone function is not available. This is the same for all iPhones that have True Tone.
Add a comment: remove blue protective covers from back of screen when installing
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새 교체 부품을 원래 부품과 비교하십시오—설치하기 전에 원래 부품에서 남은 부품을 옮기거나 새 부품에서 접착 뒷면을 제거해야 할 수도 있습니다.
기기를 다시 조립하려면 위의 단계를 역순으로 수행하십시오.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 업체로 가져 가십시오.
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댓글 6개
how can I separate the proximity sensor flat from the ear speaker? it is microsoldering?
yes 2 solder connection are hidden under a tiny piece of thin black tape, on the underside of the speaker.
Alan Sears - 답글
How to microsolder?
How do I pair a new flood illuminator to the phone
What temperature do you use on adhesive?
Merci. C'est très gentil merci beaucoup c'est très gentil
One of my gaskets was as shown in your second photo, the other had been worked into the threads (as if smeared) probably from the factory and was completely unusable.
In place of replacements (unsure of where to purchase) I just used a clear silicone caulking on both screws upon reassembly to offer at least some water seal. I wish these gaskets were included with the gasket waterproofing sealant kit!
Erica - 답글
Is there any place to buy these screw gaskets? I haven’t seen it mentioned anywhere but one of mine was pretty much chewed up. Silicone should work but I’d prefer the oem solution.
Chilinh Nguyen - 답글
I found a place on Amazon that sells them. It's cheapest to get a full set of screws than to get just these. $5-$6 USD.
J Olin -
Can it be dead?
Lulu navarro - 답글
If I transfer the data from the old to the new battery with an icopy, don't I get an error message?
David Julian Krause - 답글
how am i supposed to know if the battery is below 25% if the screen won't turn on?
Beth Jackson - 답글