이 번역은 원본 안내서의 최신 업데이트를 반영하지 않을 수 있습니다. 번역 업데이트를 돕거나 아니면 원본 안내서 보기를 참조하세요.
소개
iPhone 배터리는 80% 용량을 최대 500회 충전 사이클 동안 유지한다고 평가되며 일반 사용자에게는 약 18-24개월 정도가 됩니다. 그 이후에는 iPhone을 더 자주 충전해야 하며 iOS가 성능 저하를 경고 할 수 있습니다 (즉, 휴대폰이 느리게 작동할 수 있습니다). 이 안내서를 사용하여 배터리를 교체하고 iPhone 성능을 최상으로 복원하세요.
배터리가 부풀어 올랐으면 적절한 예방 조치를 취하세요.
이 안내서는 배터리의 접착 스트립으로 잘 접근할 수 있도록 디스플레이를 완전히 떼어내고 아래편 스피커 및 Taptic Engine/탭틱 엔진을 분리하라고 지시합니다.
최적의 성능을 위하여 안내서를 따라 완료한 후 새로 설치된 배터리를 교정하세요: 100%로 충전한 다음 최소 두 시간 이상 충전하세요. 그다음에 배터리 부족으로 꺼질 때까지 iPhone을 사용하세요. 마지막으로 중단없이 100%로 충전하세요.
필요한 것
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분해를 시작하기 전에 iPhone 전원을 꺼주세요.
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iPhone 하단 가장자리에 위치한 6.9mm-길이 pentalobe/펜타로브 나사 두 개를 빼주세요.
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iPhone 스크린 전체가 덮일 때까지 투명 포장 테이프를 겹쳐 붙이세요.
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만약 다음 몇 과정에서 흡입 컵이 스크린에 잘 붙지 않으면, 강력 테이프(덕트 테이프 등)를 접어 손잡이 형태로 만들어 붙이고 들어 올리세요.
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:Anti-Clamp$24.95
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파란색 손잡이를 뒤로 당겨 안티-클램프의 팔을 잠금 해제하세요.
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팔을 휴대폰의 왼편 또는 오른편 가장자리 위로 밀어 주세요.
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흡입 컵을 휴대폰의 하단 가장자리에 배치하세요—전면에 하나, 후면에 하나.
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적절한 위치에 컵을 함께 꽉 쥐고 흡착하세요.
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iOpener를 가열하여 안티-클램프의 팔에 끼워 넣습니다.
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iPhone 하단 가장자리에 놓이도록 iOpener를 접으세요.
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접착제가 풀려서 틈이 생길 때까지 1분 정도 기다리세요.
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스크린 자체가 아닌 스크린과 플라스틱 베젤 밑의 틈에 여는 픽을 끼우세요.
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다음 세 단계는 건너뛰세요.
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흡입 컵을 확실하고 일정한 압력으로 위로 당겨 전면 패널과 후면 케이스 사이에 약간의 틈을 만드세요.
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스크린 자체가 아닌 스크린과 플라스틱 베젤 밑에 여는 픽을 끼우세요.
It seems like I need a third hand to do this. To hold the phone; hold the suction cup; and push the pick in the space.
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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로직 보드 커넥터 브래킷을 고정하는 나사 다섯 개를 풀어주세요:
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1.0mm Y000 나사 세 개
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1.3mm Y000 나사 한 개
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3.7mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개
FYI: I used a tiny piece of scotch tape to hold those 1mm screws in place while aligning the magnetic screwdriver. Otherwise they are so tiny the magnetic bit pulls them right out the hole.
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Spudger/스퍼저 또는 손톱을 사용하여 전면 패널 센서 어셈블리 커넥터를 들어 올려 분리하세요.
In my phone the connector made poor contact with the socket resulting in no sound audible through the phone receiver/headset. There was an overhang of insulation close to the socket which I believe may have prevented a good connection. So if you have these kinds of audio problems you might see if this is the problem.
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Spudger/스퍼저 또는 손톱을 사용하여 소켓에서 디지타이저 케이블 커넥터를 들어 올려 분리하세요.
Reassembly: reconnecting the press connectors upon reassembly was so hard, even for the ones not seated in a recessed location !! It took me two days to get them reconnected. What helped me was to shine bright lights on all sides of the iPhone and then hold the iPhone vertically like a book and press it in that way. They are now all in, but the touchscreen functionality has disappeared :( so I will need to reconnect that one.
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접착제가 분리될 때까지 케이블을 조심히 들어올리세요.
Will replacing camera and sensors fix damaged face I'd
No, FaceID will be disabled because the original sensors are paired with the logic board.
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Taptic engine/탭틱 엔진 및 주 스피커 아래 브래킷 두 개를 고정하는 다섯 개의 나사를 분리하세요:
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1.0mm tri-point/트라이-포인트 Y000 나사 한 개
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1.3mm Phillips/십자 나사 두 개
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1.7mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개
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1.8mm Phillips/십자 나사 한 개
Bonjour,
Plus pratique avec une Y000. Dans mon cas c’était impossible en Y00.
Bonne journée. :)
got stuck on the 1.8 mm screw and had to abort. The Phillips head provided “PH000” didn’t quite fit and stripped the screw.
I ended up skipping this step through 32. It’s not necessary to take the speaker and taptic thing off. I just used the thin black spudger flat edge and pried under the battery on the L-shaped edge and dislodged the adhesive and then did the same on the top edge. You will end up bending the old battery but that’s ok—just don’t poke it. keep poking the flat edge of the spudger in there kind of like a knife to break the adhesive. once you get at least two spots of the adhesive pulled, the rest comes up quite easily when you lift the whole battery.
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스피커를 분리하세요.
I thought my speaker gasket was also missing, however looking back into the part box I found it tucked under the flap at the other (unopened) side of the box. Glad I took a second (and closer) look. IFIXIT needs to do a better job securing very small parts as it is very easy for these types of parts to get jostled during shipping and then could fall out or stuck in the box unnoticed. I've purchased iFixit products for more than 10 years and am super satisfied their quality in parts and provided instructions. Hopefully they'll make some adjustments to their shipping containers as I'd love to continue using them.
My speaker gasket was stuck to the inside of the box also. Unfortunately it has the back peal removed and has stuck itself to the cardboard box. I tried to remove it but it was firmly attached. Bummer. This is my first iFixIt. Please package it more carefully as the other person said.
I can't find mine in the part box. Is it possible it was excluded?
It might have fallen out. Search in the crevasses of the box. If you still cannot find it contact iFixit.
Update to last comment, I looked again at the listing for the battery with and without the "fix it kit". I ordered without, and apparently, the speaker gasket is part of the kit. Will need to order separately and take the phone apart again and replace the seal and battery adhesive again to install the gasket.
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Spudger/스퍼저를 사용하여 Taptic Engine/탭틱 엔진 플렉스 케이블을 소켓에서 똑바로 들어 올려 분리하세요.
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위의 단계를 반복하여 배터리 하단 가장자리에 있는 나머지 접착 스트립 두 개를 제거하세요.
The tabs are stuck on with the same glue that is holding the battery down. It is fairly strong but will come off with some patience and consistent progress.
Despite the photo, I do NOT suggest using the tweezers for this but the black plastic spudger that comes with the kit. I say this after having the tweezers lose grip and slide across the bottom black ribbon attached to the case. If you must use the tweezers because of the strength of the glue, use a downward force into the case bottom, not an outward force. That way, you will not have the same happen to you…
Here is hoping the slight scratch did not damage anything vital…
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성공 확률을 높이려면 :
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배터리를 누르지 마세요. iPhone을 옆으로 단단히 잡으세요.
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스트립을 평평하고 주름없게 당겨주세요.
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스트립이 충분히 늘어나서 떨어지도록 매우 천천히 당기세요. 스트립을 늘려 제거하는데 약 15-30초가 걸립니다.
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스트립이 배터리의 하단 가장자리를 따라 걸리지 않도록 낮은 각도로 당기세요.
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배터리 아랫면에서 접착 스트립이 끊어져 회수할 수 없는 경우 다른 스트립으로 이동하고 다음 절차로 진행하세요.
Pour cette étape, vous pouvez saisir les bandes adhésives avec une pince à bouts ronds (pour éviter de percer la batterie) et l’enrouler petit à petit.
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접착 스트립이 끊어지고 배터리가 후면 케이스에 붙어 있으면 iOpener를 준비하거나 헤어 드라이기를 사용하여 후면 케이스 배터리 바로 뒤를 가열하세요.
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iPhone을 뒤집어 놓고 배터리 아랫면에 강한 줄 (치실 또는 얇은 기타 줄)을 끼우세요.
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톱질 동작으로 배터리 길이를 따라 끈을 좌우로 잡아 당겨 접착제를 분리하세요. 접착제는 느리게 변형되기 때문에 다소 시간이 걸릴 수 있지만 인내심을 갖고 견디면 떨어질 것입니다. 배터리를 변형 또는 손상시키지 마세요.
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배터리의 상단 또는 하단 가장자리에서 시작하여 중앙으로 당기세요. 배터리의 중앙 3분의 1 지점으로 줄을 당기지 마세요. 바로 아랫면에 위치한 리본 케이블 또는 무선 충전 코일이 손상될 수 있습니다.
I didn't have any of the alcholol, so came in straight here. Can't over stress the need for patience, but once I put the phone on my microwaved sock of rice (that's how we roll) and started to gently saw away with the floss - it all came good.
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배터리 하단 가장자리를 잡고 iPhone에서 분리하세요.
For those that plan to proceed with the hack that eliminates the “battery is not genuine” message and no battery health information (requires extra tools that most don’t have), be careful not to bend the original battery’s flex cable too much. I found out the hard way that the flex cable doesn’t really “flex” much and ended up snapping in half when trying to hook it up to a programmer. So much for trying to do the hack :(
Willy Parr - 답글
How do I force restart and calibrate the battery at the same time?
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새 교체 부품을 원래 부품과 비교하세요—설치하기 전에 남아있는 부품을 옮기거나 새 부품에서 접착 백킹을 제거해야 할 수 있습니다.
기기를 재조립하려면 이 지침을 역순으로 따르세요.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 센터로 가져가세요.
수리가 계획대로 진행되지 않았습니까? 자사의 Answers 커뮤니티에서 확인하세요.
새 교체 부품을 원래 부품과 비교하세요—설치하기 전에 남아있는 부품을 옮기거나 새 부품에서 접착 백킹을 제거해야 할 수 있습니다.
기기를 재조립하려면 이 지침을 역순으로 따르세요.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 센터로 가져가세요.
수리가 계획대로 진행되지 않았습니까? 자사의 Answers 커뮤니티에서 확인하세요.
다른 108명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
다음 번역가들에게 특별히 감사 드립니다:
61%
Christian Kim님은 저희가 세상을 수리하는데 동참하신 분입니다! 기여하시겠습니까?
번역 시작하기 ›
댓글 17개
i don’t know what happened but now my iphone xs will only boot into recovery mode and there is nothing showing up on the display. i have double triple quadruple checked and dont know what my issue is. any feedback on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
My iPhone has been turned off completely for the past few weeks, I have tried to hard restart it but nothing seems to work. It has a black screen and isn’t responding to anything. Nothing has ever been wrong with the phone it just shut down one day and hasn’t restarted since. Do you have a suggestion to get my phone working again?
Anyone have an issue where the phone won’t charge after replacing the battery/
Yes, I cant figure out why. I wonder if because its not the original battery, it wont let the new one charge? Idk.
Nick Lo -
It is possible the you went to deep with the plectrum, knocking of a capacitor from the logic board. I think it’s best you take it to a really good repair shop where the owner has expert solder skills to replace it.
Good luck
I ended up skipping steps 20-32. The kit didn’t come with the right screwdriver top and I realized it’s not necessary to take the speaker and taptic thing off.
I just used the thin black spudger flat edge and pried under the battery on the L-shaped edge and dislodged the adhesive and then did the same on the top edge. You will end up bending the old battery but that’s ok—just don’t poke it. keep poking the flat edge of the spudger in there kind of like a knife to break the adhesive. once you get at least two spots of the adhesive pulled, the rest comes up quite easily when you lift the whole battery.
Hey, after changing the battery the volume and silent buttons stopped working. There is no apparent reason as why they would, what could it be and can it be fixed before I close the phone ??
you've likely damaged the volume flex cable that lies under the battery, it is very thin and easily damaged. unfortunately pull tabs rarely work as intended. alcohol is the best method for loosening adhesive.
I skipped removing the taptic engine and speaker because I knew I was going to break the adhesive strips when pulling as they break very easily. Just dripped some alcohol, waited 10 minutes and with a bit of force the battery came right off without even bending. Makes the process much quicker although that’s not the intended way of removal.
Ive got a metal protection plate of some sort in-between the screen and the battery around the inside perimeter of the phone. it is blocking access to most of the bottom screws. and does look like it pulls out. might be fixed at the bottom or sides.
anyone found one of these plates in their attempts? might have been placed by a repairer at some point
that is the display frame you have damaged it and you will need to replace the display because the display has its own frame and that frame holds it in place.
My phone's touch screen and camera were unresponsive after reassembly. I prised it all apart and checked all the connections 3 times unfortunately ruining the glue around the edge and then after Googling found a Forced Restart cleared the problem. Press and release volume up button then the volume down button then hold and keep holding the on off button on the right until the apple appeared. And hey presto it all worked!!! I'm well chuffed as I'm a 64 year old 'girl' with no experience of this sort of thing but am pretty competant with practical things - I thought 'how difficult can it be?' Not too difficult, except for removing the adhesive from behind the battery (should have read the detailed instructions properly) which I eventually did with some Isopropyl alcohol following the further instructions.
My top tip! I found putting all the screws on a bit of 'blue tac' kept them safe and in order.
Very tricky indeed but thankfully I managed to replace battery and screen and it worked 😊
Paul Tighe - 답글
After the change of battery the lower speaker has stopped to work. The battery it's ok and works fine but i have only speaker working right now.
I have tried to connect and disconnect it, with and without the battery connected but nothing. I don't thing that the speaker is dameged, but maybe the connector? What i can verify?
After replacing battery, I am getting ghost typing and activity on the touchscreen without touching it. And the phone is hot. What did I do wrong? Replaced a battery in my iPhone 6s prior to trying battery replacement on the XS, thought I would have equal success, not! Also noted the warning about the genuineness of the new battery, don't mind that but I also lost the health of the battery status; was that supposed to happen?
Friendly Suggestion: would have purchased the full fix kit had I know I would need to replace the adhesive gasket during reassembly. Having purchased many kits before, I have all the tools. When looking at the photo, it didn't seem to include anything other than the battery, so I just ordered the battery. Missed the tiny adhesive gasket! Might want to highlight items like that so when people order, they don't make a similar mistake.
Der Original Akku ist codiert. Egal, ob man einen zweiten Apple Original Akku oder einen neuen Fremdakku einbaut erscheint bereits in den Einstellungen eine "Wichtige Batterienachricht" mit einem roten Punkt. "Unbekanntes Bauteil" und die "Informationen zum Batteriezustand" sind nicht verfügbar. Diese Nachricht verbleibt immer und nervt auf Dauer immens.
Der Akku muss angelernt werden und dieses können von jetzt an nur authorisierte Apple Servicebetriebe und diesen ist es durch Apple verboten die notwendige Info weiterzugeben.
Dies ist nicht zu verwechseln mit der bereits bekannten Rekalibrierung seit iOS 14.5.
Seit dieser neuen Codierung kostet der Akkutausch bei Apple auch nicht mehr 75 € sondern aktuell 99 € (Stand Novmber 2023 in Deutschland).
Damit sind künftig alle nicht authorisierten Servicebetriebe raus - denn wer will schon dauernd diese Mitteilung auf dem Bildschirm haben?
Überlegt vorher, ob unter diesen Bedingungen ein eigener Akkutausch noch sinnvoll ist .....
Manfred Wachtel - 답글
Lieben Dank @manfredwachtel ! Mehr Infos dazu haben wir auch in unserem Blog zusammengefasst: https://de.ifixit.com/News/78890/teileko...
Sandra Hiller -