Hi, am working on a procedure to do just that. If the Secure Enclave is intact, its possible on some early devices to read it back using a procedure I invented based on https://www.theinquirer.net/inquirer/new...-256-encryption-keys-cracked-by-hands-off-hack to guess the key based on inference and use of an SDR without directly accessing it using a directional antenna. This reduces the complexity to a level that a graphics card array can brute force in about 2 days of processing time. Note that this is technically feasible but complicated. Ideally you’d want to get a bitwise copy of the Flash chip as though encrypted it may be recoverable without this procedure depending on how computer technology advances which is why the earlier phones were obsoleted in the first place. Its also useful if the board is intact as other components (notably the fingerprint scanner) can be used as these have a direct line to the CPU so theoretically dummy data corresponding to the user’s fingerprint can be fed in and used to...
This can sometimes happen when the battery connector is removed, sometimes pressure from the “wrong” side will do this. Looking at this one it *should* be possible to just place a component and heat both ends having first pre-tinned the new one with a near-microscopic “dot” of 63/37 at each end. If done right and the tracks aren’t also damaged then it can be repaired. Ideally use exact part then image it with something like a projector lens to make sure it isn’t touching anything else, flux clean-up is advisable but if it tests OK then should all be fine if you used no-clean.
Check hdmi connector.. mine has an obvious bent pin and burn mark. I believe that this is the cause as battery voltage recovered when disconnected. Its possible that disconnecting the 5v to the socket might be a workaround but need to investigate further. Incidentally this is a weak point on many devices and backfeeding can cause serious damage.
Same here. The S6 has a pyrolytic graphite heat spreader so don't just chuck away the old screen! For those who aren't familar with it pyrolytic graphite can be used to make maglev setups among other things. Its also handy as EL substrate. I think the new ones do come with this preattached with tape and if you find a copper strip attached then the PG will be behind it. Unfortunately there's no way to repair a cracked OLED panel as once water gets in it eats the polymers and this is why a broken phone often has no picture.
Yup, needs micro-soldering. This is very similar to neurosurgery and the micro-jumpers used are so small that a surgical microscope is actually used to install/test them. Sometimes it needs 2 attempts before all the jumpers "take" and they are then fixed in place using UV adhesive similar to the sort used on LCD repairs. Interestingly the work I've done suggests that in fact the signal that is missing has nothing to do with the LCD drive directly it simply detects that a panel is there and correctly installed. This is similar to the EDID data on a laptop screen (cough OEM non user replaceable panels /cough) If Apple wanted to they could lock out third party screens but that would suck.
Long screw fix is easy (relatively) and done routinely for £60 or so depending on where you take it. I've looked into this but the micro-jumpers used are highly specialized. Also worth mentioning is that the Flash chips on older (*ie 4S*) phones are encrypted but there is a trivial way to break it using the IMEI (its on the SIM tray) , MAC address, Bluetooth address and a hash of the original iCloud email password and birth date. Won't work on the newer phones but the key space is far smaller than Apple want to admit which is why they obsoleted the older devices rather than permitting ios 10 to run on them. I also came up with a way to break the 4S security PIN using the headphone jack but legal issues prevent me revealing exactly how so that's a pain.
Hi, yes some folks also use a vacuum chamber which also gets the water out from inside the panel. I've also tried the following to fix corroded logic boards which are otherwise trashed, white vinegar with a very small amount of Lo-Salt (potassium chloride) and hydrogen peroxide which got the corrosion off the two test boards enough to use them again though the connector closest to the battery needed microsoldering. It also works on dead SD cards after they have gone for a swim.
I need to change my Note 4 as the touch is getting progressively more temperamental. I did look into regenerating OLED panelswith screen burn using recent discovery of molecule sensitivity in 593 and 1064nm (IR) direct laser scanning when in “black” mode *#0*# but the problem here is that you need the board connected for it to work and it takes weeks.
Intriguingly this also helps explain how the compensation cycles work on newer phones/TVs and why negative images sometimes appear for a while then go away as its the controller averaging out over many many frames.
Would this fix a bad charging situation? it worked before, won’t go over 3%, not the battery as checked this (and other things like connectors, etc). Also black screen can be bad backlight or (worse) motherboard fuse. I did find out that sometimes the screens are rejects and have good screen/touch but other problems.
I’ll just have to hope it isn’t the U2 or tiny missing SMD near the battery connector.
Hi, similar problem here. It might benefit others to know that some phones are very fussy about the EM permeability of the touch screen; the reason for low signal could be that simple. I am working on a Z and using my idea would allow a screen replacement to be graded without ever opening the box so if substandard could be sent back unopened (most sellers refuse to refund if screen is used at all) the same method can also be verifiably used to evaluate non OEM batteries and compare to the original to see if they are genuine new, genuine used or counterfeit.
I need to change my Note 4 as the touch is getting progressively more temperamental. I did look into regenerating OLED panelswith screen burn using recent discovery of molecule sensitivity in 593 and 1064nm (IR) direct laser scanning when in “black” mode *#0*# but the problem here is that you need the board connected for it to work and it takes weeks.
Intriguingly this also helps explain how the compensation cycles work on newer phones/TVs and why negative images sometimes appear for a while then go away as its the controller averaging out over many many frames.
Would this fix a bad charging situation? it worked before, won’t go over 3%, not the battery as checked this (and other things like connectors, etc). Also black screen can be bad backlight or (worse) motherboard fuse. I did find out that sometimes the screens are rejects and have good screen/touch but other problems.
I’ll just have to hope it isn’t the U2 or tiny missing SMD near the battery connector.
Hi, I found that a lot of the "bad" screens are fine but its the e2prom which is hosed.
Typically this happens when someone swaps out the cracked screen and does not do the two critical (that I discovered) modifications.
If anyone wants to know how email or tweet me, I am @darnstadium
Hi, similar problem here. It might benefit others to know that some phones are very fussy about the EM permeability of the touch screen; the reason for low signal could be that simple. I am working on a Z and using my idea would allow a screen replacement to be graded without ever opening the box so if substandard could be sent back unopened (most sellers refuse to refund if screen is used at all) the same method can also be verifiably used to evaluate non OEM batteries and compare to the original to see if they are genuine new, genuine used or counterfeit.