Student4Life

After this procedure, my phone started and worked, then began continuously rebooting when I pressed the power button to try the camera. Like the power button was stuck pressed, but it wasn't pressed and the procedure doesn't touch the switch and I couldn't see the issue even under a microscope. But I removed the battery and reinserted it against the edge opposite the power switch as far from the power switch as I could. Seems to be working now, I conclude the battery was pressing against and bending the back wall of the power switch. Insert the new battery positioning it against the compartment-edge opposite the power switch!

Didn't have guitar picks. I grabbed some plastic packaging from my recycle bin and cut it into a bunch of triangles to hold the gap open as I worked my way around.

I like the dental floss idea. I set edges of the phone-back and also the blunt metal tool on an electric cooktop on low heat, and the adhesive softened enough to be workable. SAFETY TIP: the tool and phone were hot to touch, I wore cotton gloves throughout this task.

Thanks for doing this, Hugo. I too have the rattle. It sounds like a speaker rattle, but then I realized I can shake the headphones and something inside is completely loose. For my pair it’s the left ear, so I see from Hugo’s photo there’s a battery and a speaker in the case. I find others are drilling a hole and injecting some epoxy. What I wanted to understand is whether the objective is to glue the speaker to the inside wall (against my bone) or to the outside wall (the side with the control switch). I guess I’ll just go for it, maybe all that matters is that it’s secured to the case. Also I see all the conformal coating, so I’m wondering how the speaker was secured in the first place and whether I should use a rigid epoxy or a rubbery RTV / silicone caulk adhesive.

I was able to skip steps 6, 7, 8, and 9 after disconnecting only the battery ribbon cable. The battery ZIF socket has a wide black lever that needs to be tilted up from the outside edge to release (and again tilted flat during reassembly to clamp) the cable connection. Skipping steps 6-9 meant that on step 10 I had to remove the battery clip from behind the motherboard that I didn’t remove.

I didn’t have a T6 bit. My set only went down to T7. I was able to seat a jeweler’s flat-blade screwdriver into the head, press down firmly, and turn the screw head. Even after breaking the screw loose, there was significant drag to turn it, so be careful of the tool slipping out of the screw head.

I was able to remove the cover without cosmetic damage. I used a 6” sharp knife blade, slid it into the crack and twisted. As Kevin states in Step 2, you are trying to lift up the center of the long edge. The top short end has two tabs and the bottom end has one big tab in the center.

On an Insperion 15 model 3878, the Wi-Fi adapter wasn't under the keyboard. It was under the inset cover on the bottom.

I reseated the card connection and then Windows could communicate to configure it.