도움말
이벤트 | 개수 | 델타 |
---|---|---|
누군가 귀하의 안내서를 완성하였습니다 | 87 | 1458 |
누군가 귀하의 안내서를 좋아요 하였습니다 | 60 | 506 |
관리자가 귀하의 안내서를 승인하였습니다 | 2 | 200 |
게시물이 추천되었습니다 | 8 | 96 |
답변 승인함 | 3 | 90 |
귀하의 안내서 링크를 포함한 추천 게시물 | 7 | 57 |
안내서 단계 편집 검토가 승인되었습니다 | 10 | 10 |
위키 편집 검토가 승인되었습니다 | 1 | 1 |
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
Heating the wrist-pad area and carefully using a plastic card to separate the adhesive allowed me to remove the battery without needing to use the solvent or removing the track-pad. No need for taping the speakers.
A 3.0 Hex driver worked for the T25 spacer screw.
Rather than unscrew the antenna cables, I usually unscrew the screws on the board and slide out the whole AirPort/Bluetooth module, which means I need not keep track of which antenna cable goes where.
I found removing the speaker (be careful of the antenna wire in the slot along the outside edge) made re-assembly much easier and it might have helped with disassembly.
I found removing the speaker (be careful of the antenna wire in the slot along the outside edge) made re-assembly much easier and it might have helped with disassembly.
A T9 bit fits and grips the screws tight enough to make it easier to work with the deep 4.7mm screw.
The thermal sensor cable is just two wires - it4art is suggesting plugging a tiny wire jumper between the two holes in the cable to create a short-circuit. I do not know how this impacts the system. I tend to use “Macs Fan Control” for these types of things.
If the drive was not formatted has HFS+ by Disk Utility.app it may not be recognized by the installer. I usually format and install a system on a drive before intalling it inside the machine, but you can use Target Disk mode or maybe Internet Recovery to format it after installation.
I typically just use duct-tape to hold it in place.
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