This was a very helpful set of instructions. My A1302 is up and running again! Thanks!
I simply removed and checked all the capacitors. Different brands were used: Rubycon, Samson, Koshin and Su’scon. I simply used the capacitance checker on my multimeter. Only the Su’scon capacitor’s capacitance appeared to be about 50% below spec! In fact, very much in line with the quality ranking published on good’ol Tom’s Hardware (https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/pow...). Eventually replaced all capacitors for which I could buy a replacement at the local electronic components store; a bike ride distance. The 47uF’s (C3 and C4) were the only ones for which I couldn’t find a replacement so quickly; they were still within spec, so I placed them back.
After replacement of the other capacitors, I added the (repaired) power-unit cover and the machine became alive again.
Use an iron instead of a heating gun or hairdryer!
Gradually raise the temperature while checking for separation, while moving over the rubber. I first cleaned the rubber with some soap, to avoid scorching dust or grease. The setting for synthetic fabrics seemed to do the job with my Tefal iron; probably a little over 100 degrees centigrade. No steam off course!
Worked like a charm without leaving almost any residual glue.
Sticking the rubber sole back after the repair was also successful.
This was a very helpful set of instructions. My A1302 is up and running again! Thanks!
I simply removed and checked all the capacitors. Different brands were used: Rubycon, Samson, Koshin and Su’scon. I simply used the capacitance checker on my multimeter. Only the Su’scon capacitor’s capacitance appeared to be about 50% below spec! In fact, very much in line with the quality ranking published on good’ol Tom’s Hardware (https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/pow...). Eventually replaced all capacitors for which I could buy a replacement at the local electronic components store; a bike ride distance. The 47uF’s (C3 and C4) were the only ones for which I couldn’t find a replacement so quickly; they were still within spec, so I placed them back.
After replacement of the other capacitors, I added the (repaired) power-unit cover and the machine became alive again.
Use an iron instead of a heating gun or hairdryer!
Gradually raise the temperature while checking for separation, while moving over the rubber. I first cleaned the rubber with some soap, to avoid scorching dust or grease. The setting for synthetic fabrics seemed to do the job with my Tefal iron; probably a little over 100 degrees centigrade. No steam off course!
Worked like a charm without leaving almost any residual glue.
Sticking the rubber sole back after the repair was also successful.