I'm interested in the outcome here. My (old) battery is draining very quickly, and I'm considering the replacement kit. But, of course, if it doesn't work...
On newer models with the white plastic battery case, apply thumb pressure to the batteries at the top of the case to nudge them out of the case. Once free, the white plastic case will slip off the battery pack easily. When reassembling, insert your new battery pack into the white plastic case before attaching the battery wires, and before replacing the battery assembly into the sweeper.
On newer models with the white molded plastic battery case, lift the batteries together with the case carefully out of the sweeper. Be careful to clear the red and black wires from small channels in the white plastic battery case before lifting the battery assembly out.
MUCH appreciation to the author of this guide, and to those who have posted very helpful comments along the way. The instructions - and especially the photos - are outstanding. This repair is definitely not “easy,” but it is certainly do-able. It’s important to follow the instructions very carefully, without jumping around, to assure no damage to delicate connectors. This repair should breathe new life into one of the very best laptop models ever made by Apple. My old battery lasted six years. If the replacement lasts half as long, I’ll be happy.
My replacement battery came with a clear plastic protective cover stuck across the top. This protective cover helps keep the four battery cells and their frame aligned properly for fitting into the space. Remove the protective cover (it peels off easily), however, before closing up your computer.
I agree that test-mounting the new battery, including re-attaching both speakers, BEFORE removing the adhesive covers, is essential for perfect alignment of the batteries… and especially important for alignment of the battery connector and its solo screw.
I used GooGone adhesive remover (non-flammable, non-toxic) to loosen remaining adhesive. It worked well, applied with a paper towel. It took several applications to thoroughly clean the computer case. Allow it to dry thoroughly before adhering the replacement battery.
My successful alternative to the plastic cards was to use a plastic putty knife, an inexpensive purchase from any pint or hardware store. This tool gave me a strong, grippable handle with which to carefully “work” the plastic blade under the battery cells.
Before proceeding with the solvent, I suggest considering using dental floss to slice through the old adhesive. (See next step 22 below for more details.) Because the solvent is so dangerous (flammable and caustic), I felt the “dry” use of floss would be better. I assumed that I could revert to the solvent if necessary after trying the floss.
My model (late 2013 MacBook Pro Retina), did not have any screws in these locations. They were rubber “feet” in the same locations. They are not attached in any way to the computer. They simply lift up with the plastic battery frame. My replacement batter kit came with the plastic frame - and these rubber “feet” - already installed. No need to save the old ones.
On newer models with the white plastic battery case, apply thumb pressure to the batteries at the top of the case to nudge them out of the case. Once free, the white plastic case will slip off the battery pack easily. When reassembling, insert your new battery pack into the white plastic case before attaching the battery wires, and before replacing the battery assembly into the sweeper.
On newer models with the white molded plastic battery case, lift the batteries together with the case carefully out of the sweeper. Be careful to clear the red and black wires from small channels in the white plastic battery case before lifting the battery assembly out.
Newer models have the silver battery cap only on the bottom. The top is a white, molded plastic case.
Remove the dirt-catcher compartment before attempting to separate the halves of the sweeper body.
MUCH appreciation to the author of this guide, and to those who have posted very helpful comments along the way. The instructions - and especially the photos - are outstanding. This repair is definitely not “easy,” but it is certainly do-able. It’s important to follow the instructions very carefully, without jumping around, to assure no damage to delicate connectors. This repair should breathe new life into one of the very best laptop models ever made by Apple. My old battery lasted six years. If the replacement lasts half as long, I’ll be happy.
My replacement battery came with a clear plastic protective cover stuck across the top. This protective cover helps keep the four battery cells and their frame aligned properly for fitting into the space. Remove the protective cover (it peels off easily), however, before closing up your computer.
I agree that test-mounting the new battery, including re-attaching both speakers, BEFORE removing the adhesive covers, is essential for perfect alignment of the batteries… and especially important for alignment of the battery connector and its solo screw.
I used GooGone adhesive remover (non-flammable, non-toxic) to loosen remaining adhesive. It worked well, applied with a paper towel. It took several applications to thoroughly clean the computer case. Allow it to dry thoroughly before adhering the replacement battery.
My successful alternative to the plastic cards was to use a plastic putty knife, an inexpensive purchase from any pint or hardware store. This tool gave me a strong, grippable handle with which to carefully “work” the plastic blade under the battery cells.
Before proceeding with the solvent, I suggest considering using dental floss to slice through the old adhesive. (See next step 22 below for more details.) Because the solvent is so dangerous (flammable and caustic), I felt the “dry” use of floss would be better. I assumed that I could revert to the solvent if necessary after trying the floss.
My model (late 2013 MacBook Pro Retina), did not have any screws in these locations. They were rubber “feet” in the same locations. They are not attached in any way to the computer. They simply lift up with the plastic battery frame. My replacement batter kit came with the plastic frame - and these rubber “feet” - already installed. No need to save the old ones.
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