Tom Chai

So I finally got an iPhone 6 Plus, I opened it up to check it out. During the disassembly I found a few QC issues, one...

Depending on which holes you poked. If it is the right side holes, probably water resistance wasn’t compromised in the first place. You can do a pressure test to determine if the phone is still sealed. If it is the left side holes, you’ve destroyed water resistance already and it is going to be a complex repair to replace all seals and meshes, and there will be no sure way to test after all this. So consider water resistance permanently lost if left holes are damaged.

This still feels like power issue to me. Try with BRAND NEW batteries, or use a USB power bank/phone charger to power the controller, but not using USB to connect to the PC. If it works with external power, then either battery does not have enough voltage or something is wrong with the power circuit.

There is no bottom left speaker, are you talking about the bottom left microphone? Replace the bottom flex cables.

Probably the screw length is right, but diameter and threads are still wrong. Therefore still wrong screw.

1: “First, I’ve read online that once data is marked as unused by the SSD controller, it is no longer encrypted. “ read online where? it’s nonsense. 2: Trim marks blocks no longer used by the file system ready for recycling, it doesn’t care about what data is in them and made no changes. 3: If all data is encrypted, recovery software is useless unless the software can recover encryption keys, which contradicts the “is encrypted” part, thus logically nonsense. 4: Data recovery software only works at file system level, it analyzes all blocks addressable and readable, to figure out previous data marked out by the file system. It doesn’t care about anything lower level. Even if the data blocks are still there, the metadata containing the keys are removed, therefore recovery is difficult and if the master key is securely removed, data recovery is impossible. What CAN be undone by Trim is the deletion of certain master keys if the deletion was not properly handled at physical level. Apple made this kind of...

If you didn’t get it back then, don’t bother trying it now, especially with encrypted console data.

That’s the water resistance gasket. Open up the phone, loosen the home button, reseat or replace the gasket, replace the screen adhesive so it is still water resistant after you reassemble it.

Baseband chip is paired with all major chips in the phone and encrypted. It is not possible to reverse this encryption. There are baseband EEPROM chip reprogramming processes, but that only works if good data from the EEPROM chip is read out first or damage to the data is limited and logical error recovery possible. If the chip is missing altogether, no fix.

Actually the most likely reason is the dot projector. The DP has some kind of active optics in front of the IR/laser chip, water or impact may have damaged them and you may need to find a way to separate the optical block from the silicon part and solder a replacement module on. The chip beneath the DP must stay intact because that part is paired to the phone. This is another kind of microsurgery difficulty level repair. People can do this won’t charge for cheap even in China.

The information you gave is not useful. What WiFi chip do you have on your computer? You can always use Windows Update to automatically match drivers if you don’t know, as long as you have connected to the internet in the first place. Catch 22 huh.

Easy, you are supposed to desolder the battery and the dock flex first, remove the logic board then access the battery.

Look at the CPU heat spreader, it is much thicker than previous models, is it possible that this is some kind of mini flat heat pipe?

Yeah it is just a case ventilation fan, it doesn’t blow any heatsinks directly. Although with the very low TDP of the processor, a case fan with radiator type heat sink should do the job.

It is not possible to access the internals from the back, the back is locked to the case with screws from the inside.

It’s the top bezel itself, as always.

You need to show the back side of the battery, the supplier name is on the back.

No. Basically not related at all.

Zero! Way to go!

As you can see they've already ruined a lot of things, so this is not going back together.

Looks like it is soldered, this is going to end up ugly if you manage to break the ports.