The most common issue with iPad Mini is that when you close the new screen the LCD cable attaches to the adhesive on the frame and is folded and broken. This is super delicate and I screwed up some screens before I understood this. Take a look at the image. When you remove the bottom adhesive make sure the cable does not stick to the adhesive on the glass. When you close the screen start from the top. Then use a spudger and tuck the cable so it goes inside the frame before you close it. I had some good pictures of this on the guide but they seem to be gone for some reason. I am afraid if this is the issue you will have to buy a new screen as the cable is useless once you have folded it.
I hope you have a backup because the only solution I would try now is to restore IOS. Press power and home buttons at the same time. When you see the Apple logo - let go of the power button. You will see a screen on the iPhone asking you to connect to iTunes. Connect your iPhone to iTunes Select "restore" and iTunes will download and reinstall IOS.
As far as I have read (could be wrong though) the PCIe slot is only present if the iMac was ordered with a Fusion Drive. Can anyone confirm this? It is then easy to setup your own Fusion Drive combining any PCIe blade with a normal drive. You can not make a Fusion Drive from 2 SSDs though. No support for that. Also I am not sure if TRIM support is possible with 3rd party drives. If the PCIe slot in the 2013 iMac is the same as for Late-2013 MacBook Pros then you can use any cheaper PCIe NVMe blade SSD. I got an adapter from Sintech ($9) so I can use any PCIe M-Slot blade SSD. The NVMe support was introduced with MacOS High Sierra. I am using a 1TB Samsung SM961 in a 2015 MacBook Pro 15" that achieves blazing speed 1400/1900 MB/s. And I got it on Ebay for $530. Has anyone tested this on the iMac?
A1370 is the 11" MBA and uses the same SSD from late-2010 to mid-2011. I suggest you take a look at the upgrades from OWC and you will see what fits: SSD Upgrades - MacBook Air 11" & 13" 2010 — 2011
Thanks for input and I actually solved this myself. Like I wrote, I have been through all the common issues with iPad Mini and others and was very careful this time. Still it just got worse the more I worked on it. In the end I even entered a boot loop. The solution was to force the iPad into DFU mode and restore it like a new iPad. To my surprise this fixed everything. I was not expecting such luck, but then again I had inspected every contact and could not find anything wrong. Here is my advice: 1) Always power down, disconnect battery before other connectors. 2) Try to cover up new iPad digitizer contacts/exposed metal like the original, if not able to rescue old adhesive, use capton tape to cover exposed contacts. 3) Always be careful when you lift up on the connectors. E.g. lift the battery connector from the battery side. 4) Test touch before putting it together. For the iPad Mini be very careful that the digitizer cable is folded down inside the casing and watch out so it does not stick to the frame an...
The magnets are important. You need to transfer them to the new digitizer. Take a look at step 45 here: iPad Mini 2 Wi-Fi Front Panel Assembly Replacement They are magnets for the Apple Smart Cover.
Thanks @Dan for your suggestions. Sorry i did not accept your answer since I solved it myself. From my experience the NVidia SATA controller is not easy to deal with. But that is what the 2009 Mac Mini has. I have no problems with 2008 MacBookPs and 6Gb SSDs. They all autosense capable speed. As it is hard nowadays to find any new 3Gb the conclusion here is that e.g. CRUCIAL SSDs work with the 2009 Mac Mini and NOT the Samsung EVO. At least stay away from Sandforce driven SSDs. The trick with leaving the drive plugged into power-only for some hours is weird but works obviously! The "problem" is Macs last too long. I doubt I would be plundering with a 2009 Dell laptop...
A lot of things could go wrong with water damage. Seems it is going in a loop since it can not verify the components needed to go on with booting. Did you open up the phone to inspect any corrosion? What did you do when you had the water damage?
It will probably not fit physically, e.g. the 2012 has Thunderbolt ports which yours does not have. Also you would have a problem with the connections from the screen to the communications board (bluetooth, wifi). The cables will be too long or too short. Also the SATA cable will not connect.
The copper tape is really not a connector. It is a heat shield that spreads heat. Just try to attach it so it overlaps. It does not affect any connection.
Be aware that the LCD is extremely fragile. I have done this many times and it took some time for me to understand why when I tested the screen before installation it was perfect. Then when I glued it and had put some pressure on it to stay fit, I ended up with a defective screen. Be ultra carefull when you press the screen into place. Only press on the very edges! Or else you easily damage the LCD. I have tested both cold and hot adhesive and both make a good fit. They say the adhesive that needs heat can make the device waterproof but I would not even try to get the device waterproof again. You just have to accept that maybe some spill-proof, but nobody can guarantee the Z phones will ever be waterproof when you have opened them, removed seals for camera etc. I always tell my customers that.
It usually is the foam is missing from the digitizer cable (step 13). Important to move that over from the old digitizer since it helps to assure a good connection, presses and holds the connector in place. I would check that again.
You can install OS X 10.7 LION and no later version. Although LION runs ok with 2GB RAM it does help to get 1GB + 2GB = 3GB. Even if you install 2 X 4GB you will only utilize 3GB. Installing a SSD seems to make no difference since the SATA bus is only 1.5GB/s. A good 5400rpm disk is good enough. I even run BootCamp and Windows 7. Works fine. Not fast but fine. My A1212 refuses to die :-)
It is fine to remove the cable from the logic board when when you remove the screen. But when when assembling back together I found it better to take the LVDS cable out of the LCD and install it carefully on the logic board. Then connect it to the top of the LCD. Also the connector to the LCD is much more solid and not so easy to bend.
Please note that there are guides here to replace the CPU with a i7 2.93GHz on the iMac. This is specifically for the iMac 27" 2010 and NOT the 21.5". Even though the CPU has the same socket and fits in the ZIF socket there is a big difference between the 27" which uses a 95watt CPU and the 21.5" that only supports 74watt. So your only choice is to upgrade to a i5 3.6GHZ.
Position the home button and push the panel onto it. Remove the portion of film from the digitizer, adhesive from the home button, then push down in place the bottom of the screen so the home button sticks to the digitizer. If you position the home button on the digitizer it will be more trial and error.
The copper tape is really not a connector. It is a heat shield that spreads heat. Just try to attach it so it overlaps. It does not affect any connection.
Be aware that the LCD is extremely fragile. I have done this many times and it took some time for me to understand why when I tested the screen before installation it was perfect. Then when I glued it and had put some pressure on it to stay fit, I ended up with a defective screen. Be ultra carefull when you press the screen into place. Only press on the very edges! Or else you easily damage the LCD. I have tested both cold and hot adhesive and both make a good fit. They say the adhesive that needs heat can make the device waterproof but I would not even try to get the device waterproof again. You just have to accept that maybe some spill-proof, but nobody can guarantee the Z phones will ever be waterproof when you have opened them, removed seals for camera etc. I always tell my customers that.
What do you mean by "LCD strip"? Connector?
It usually is the foam is missing from the digitizer cable (step 13). Important to move that over from the old digitizer since it helps to assure a good connection, presses and holds the connector in place. I would check that again.
You can install OS X 10.7 LION and no later version. Although LION runs ok with 2GB RAM it does help to get 1GB + 2GB = 3GB. Even if you install 2 X 4GB you will only utilize 3GB. Installing a SSD seems to make no difference since the SATA bus is only 1.5GB/s. A good 5400rpm disk is good enough. I even run BootCamp and Windows 7. Works fine. Not fast but fine. My A1212 refuses to die :-)
Can I use this guide for a 2015 Retina 15"? I have located the correct screen assembly (which does not fit 2014 as I know).
Yes, damaged mine too. It is better to take it out of the LCD and install it carefully on the logic board, then install it to the LCD.
It is fine to remove the cable from the logic board when when you remove the screen. But when when assembling back together I found it better to take the LVDS cable out of the LCD and install it carefully on the logic board. Then connect it to the top of the LCD. Also the connector to the LCD is much more solid and not so easy to bend.
Please note that there are guides here to replace the CPU with a i7 2.93GHz on the iMac. This is specifically for the iMac 27" 2010 and NOT the 21.5". Even though the CPU has the same socket and fits in the ZIF socket there is a big difference between the 27" which uses a 95watt CPU and the 21.5" that only supports 74watt. So your only choice is to upgrade to a i5 3.6GHZ.
Position the home button and push the panel onto it. Remove the portion of film from the digitizer, adhesive from the home button, then push down in place the bottom of the screen so the home button sticks to the digitizer. If you position the home button on the digitizer it will be more trial and error.
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