Eagle River Electronics was founded in 2020, during the height of the pandemic, with the short-term goal of helping our community have a resource to use for all their remote-work and school needs, and the long-term goal of sending as little electronics waste to our landfills as possible to keep our state and our planet beautiful.
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Good catch! not sure how I put the yellow box in the wrong place the first time but I have fixed it now. Thank you for doing your part to make sure the guide is accurate!
Hello Michael.
Please note I am not associated with Garmin in any way, I just try to fix things.
In terms of the battery, I did this repair and made this guide over 2 years ago. I do not see a battery in any of the photos nor do I remember one being there. If you can send some good high quality photos of yours I am happy to take a look and let you know what I think, but I cannot promise anything.
1: The speaker was moved or removed, and when the device was put back together the contacts do not line up with the spring contacts on the motherboard.
If this is the problem, repositioning it so that the spring contacts on the motherboard touch the correct point on the speaker contacts will fix it.
2: The spring contacts on the motherboard were bent or damaged. These types of connections are very fragile and can be broken easily.
If they're just bent, try to bend them back carefully. If they're broken, it may take solder work to repair and make the speaker usable.
3: The spring contacts do not have enough force/pressure to ensure a good connection.
If this is the problem, double check all your screws and make sure the correct screws are in the correct holes, and that all screws are tightened down properly.
Hope this helps, and let me know if you are able to solve this.
Hello JMCM. I do not know for sure; I am not a Garmin representative or certified technician, I only try to do things and figure them out on my own. This device repair used in the photos was for a client and I no longer have access to the device to test or take more photos, but I'll try to advise as best I can with my understanding of the technology.
If you look at the last photo in step 9, you can see the speaker. It is the round thing to the right in the shell still on the workstation. Those two gold colored squares are the contact pads, one positive and one negative.
I do not have any photos of the other side of the motherboard, but on the other side, right above those two pads should be a couple of spring contacts. These springs should touch the metal pads on the speaker and make contact to the motherboard without wires but with pressure only.
If I had to guess what went wrong on your repair, I would suppose it to be one of three things:
Thank you for the information. I did not find any adhesive in mine but I'll make a note and add it to the guide.
Glad the guide could get you that far without any other issues! It is really silly when manufactures change how things are assembled part-way through a product so that we both can have the same exact model device but they have different steps to take them apart.
As Bob noted in January, the top center screw doesn't do anything and doesn't need removing. As I found today during my repair, that is true but also the two bottom central screws are also unnecessary. If you check the photos in step 3, in the bottom of the battery near the screws circled in red, there are cutouts where the screws would go, but there is no mounting points on the bottom of the palmrest assembly where the screws go, so it was the case in the device photographed for this guide in the first place as well, the original guide author must simply not have noticed. (I did not notice at first, either, until reassembly found me questioning where the screws go.)
I have edited this step to reflect as such. It also means if you lose one of the important screws accidentally, you have three replacements that aren't holding anything in that are good to go.
Hope this helps.
Comments did not load when I originally made this comment, but was answered by Thomas Niegisch and Виктор Ганелес above; iFixit sells the V2 of the screen only, so if you need V1 you should find somewhere else to purchase.
Hi! The version for sale on iFixit (https://www.ifixit.com/products/surface-...) is not specified.
There are two versions of this screen. Version 1 and Version 2. They are incompatible based on their connectors. Completely indistinguishable from the outside (because Microsoft has to make it even harder to repair it by making sure you can't order the screen before disassembly). Physically the connector is the same, but it is in a different place, so the screen will not align properly if you get the wrong version replacement.
What version is it for sale on the iFixit page?
Miguel is correct, it definitely does work. If you have the correct kind of speaker, it comes off with a twist, but you have to push really hard. To quote from my guide I made on the subject, "Stand the speaker up and push down hard, and you can use a counter-clockwise motion to remove the ring.
Please note that you have to push down HARD to get the amount of torque needed. Probably harder than you think at first."
JBL Boombox Tweeter Speaker Replacement
Thank you for bringing this to my attention. Nothing of the sort was there when I did this repair. If you don't mind me asking, what region was your phone manufactured for? The phone I took pictures of for this guide was US/NA region.
If you can provide a photo I will be happy to add it to the guide. As it stands now, I've added a note to this step.
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Justin Castle
@erelectronics
Eagle River Electronics is a small computer repair shop in Eagle River, Alaska. We work on Computers, Phones, Tablets, Gaming Systems, TVs, and More!
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