If you're dead set on this, just purchase the hi-res screen assembly on eBay and sell your glossy one to offset the cost. They are swappable (assuming you don't mean the retina screen), and will be perfectly compatible. You need to match up the correct part number to be sure, but it will plug right in and work fine. I've done this 3 times for people in the same boat. Good luck!
- Unplug laptop from charger - Hold PWR button for 10 seconds - While still holding the PWR button, plug in charger and KEEP HOLDING PWR button - After 10 seconds of holding the PWR button with the charger plugged in, LET GO of the PWR button and then IMMEDIATELY (within 1 second) press the PWR button again as normally. Follow the above steps exactly. Your laptop should power on with the fan spinning full-blast. If it continues to boot and function properly, your temperature sensor on the CPU has been damaged and is preventing the computer from functioning properly. The process above bypasses that sensor and allows you to test the rest of the computer. Unfortunately, if the sensor is bad, there is no real way to fix it. However, if the above process works, you can continue to use the computer in that condition until it dies from something else. You will have to live with the fan being on 100% of the time, but will at least have a working computer. Good luck!
It sounds like your issue might not be the hinge itself, but rather the frame of the LCD assembly coming undone from the lid. You can NOT repair this issue by replacing the hinge or the bezel, as neither of these (alone) is the issue. You can try applying a "generous" amount of super glue into the area of the frame/lid where it's separating and then squeezing it tight as hard (but as carefully) as you can until it dries. If you can remove the LCD assembly to do this, that will make it a LOT easier to apply the glue and apply pressure where needed. Once dried, the glue will at least make it "operable", but the most economically feasible repair for this issue is to purchase a new LCD assembly (~$200.00 on eBay for this model). Good luck!
First, make sure the case you purchased was fully-tested and in working condition when you bought it (I've purchased 100+ cases on eBay, and I'd say a solid 1/3 of them are bad or not fully tested). Providing the case is good and fully-functional, I would re-seat the keyboard cable. Next, I would test the top case by installing the battery, prompting the orange/amber LED light on the charger, and then resetting the PMU by pressing the left "shift", "control", and "option" keys along with the power button all at the exact same time for at least 5 seconds. If you see the charging light turn from orange to green, then you know that at least the power button is good, and the laptop "should" power on. One other thing to try, is to unplug the top case cable from the logic board and try "jumping" the board using the two power-pads near the keyboard connector. I have experienced top cases that appeared good, but were shorted to the point where they would cause the computer not to turn on (despite the PMU...
Make sure your Hard Drive/Sleep cable is connected fully. Also make sure your battery indicator sensor is plugged in completely. If the computer turns on, then your keyboard cable is likely plugged in properly, but it wouldn't hurt to check and make sure. I've had the hard drive and battery indicator cables on this model cause sleep/non-boot issues quite a few times when it seems like there's no other cause. Good luck!
Replacing the LCD screen itself is certainly a 10. I'd say replacing the entire LCD assembly, however, is an 8 or so. Providing you're extremely careful when disconnecting and re-connecting the connectors, and that you're patient and follow the instructions/guide to a "T" and do not rush things, you might be able to do the repair without causing further damage. I would opt to replace the entire assembly if you have the extra cash up-front. Then, sell your old assembly for parts to someone who is more skilled who can replace the actual LCD at a later time.
Does the computer work "faster" or more smoothly when plugged in? Does the computer still work slowly if you remove or unplug the battery? Apple has built in a "feature" that under-clocks the CPU in the event of a power anomaly (i.e. your blown battery) or faulty charger. If the computer works fine when the battery is removed and/or when the charger is plugged in, there is a fix. I'll wait to hear back before suggesting it, as I don't want to confuse you if that's not a solution.
Probably not the logic board if it was once working fine and there haven't been any spills or anything. Does your tap-to-click function work fine? If so, then it's likely the trackpad. You can try to remove it (remove bottom plate, battery, then the 4 tiny screws holding the metal bands over the trackpad), clean around the edges and then re-install it. Spend the time adjusting the leveling screw to the correct depth and then try the click action again. If it still doesn't work, you might need to replace the trackpad.
