This likely indicates a graphics chip failure and need for a new motherboard. Very common in the 2011 Macbook Pro series, but apparently also affects some retina display models too. Repair extension from Apple https://www.apple.com/support/macbookpro-videoissues/ Sadly they no longer repair the 2011’s.
It is not a total reboot, it just turns on the machine. That said, unplugging the battery and the power for a bit (30 mins?) should accomplish an SMC reset.
The Accepted Answer refers to a post which replaces the optical drive with an SSD so that the iMac has both an SSD and HDD. To answer your question, there is no 3.5" SSD drive form factor. What you want is a 2.5" SATA SSD, which you will place in a 2.5" to 3.5" adapter. Because of the length of the cables, you want one that won't just hold the drive in place but puts the connections where they belong, such as the Icy Dock EzConvert.
Good catch, looks like I misread the original post. I was responding to the sentence "In order to put a SSD into an iMac that isn't a 27" or a 2011 21.5" then you need a optibay." This is true only if you wish to retain the original HDD, which was the case, but as I said, I misread the somewhat awkwardly worded original post. That said, prices for 512GB SSDs are getting near $200 these days and will continue to fall. Considering the speed increase and reliabilty of SSDs vs HDDs, I am finding it harder to justify the cost savings of HDDs lately.
The top case is a bit different as well. The are screw holes for the subwoofer on the 2010 which the earlier model lacks, and the bluetooth antennae on the 2010 has a piece of metal that looks like it attaches to the frame (glued?). The older model has a thin black plastic material covering that area (which appears to be cut away on the newer one, but I couldn't find any info on removing it and didn't want to mess it up so I left it in place. HTH someone.
There are 5 screws to remove from the palm rest before this step (no need to remove the one on the bottom right side). Also, there are 2 ribbon cables that need to be released (flip up the brown part of the socket to release it).
I only had to remove 1 cable for the keyboard, the wide one. It is removed, and reattached, by flipping up the brown part of the socket. It was a little stiff on mine; I used 2 fingernails on either end of the socket to raise the flap up.
Yes, as dloeper noted, the two screws on the bottom with the keyboard icons must be removed prior to this step. Might as well remove all the screws from the bottom, they all need to be removed (10 total, all the same size).
Just took one apart and paid attention this time. On this Mac, the screws colored orange should be red, and the 2 screws on the left side of the board should be orange (they’re a bit longer).
Remove 4 screws, then…
There are 5 screws to remove from the palm rest before this step (no need to remove the one on the bottom right side). Also, there are 2 ribbon cables that need to be released (flip up the brown part of the socket to release it).
I only had to remove 1 cable for the keyboard, the wide one. It is removed, and reattached, by flipping up the brown part of the socket. It was a little stiff on mine; I used 2 fingernails on either end of the socket to raise the flap up.
Yes, as dloeper noted, the two screws on the bottom with the keyboard icons must be removed prior to this step. Might as well remove all the screws from the bottom, they all need to be removed (10 total, all the same size).
It is for the 2133, the 2210 uses 6400
You probably need to tuck the airport cables into the little channel better (especially around the fan and tip of the heat sink). Step 27.
Not even close.
Just took one apart and paid attention this time. On this Mac, the screws colored orange should be red, and the 2 screws on the left side of the board should be orange (they’re a bit longer).
Not sure you can. I’d just use some kapton tape to hold it in place and call it good.
There’s both a hole for a screw and a clip to hold the bottom case
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