Senior technical writer, photographer, and tinkerer at iFixit HQ in San Luis Obispo, California.
Like many folks here, I’ve been fixing things most of my life—cars, computers, time machines. (Wait, sorry—that last thing happens later.)
I joined iFixit in 2013 as a technical writer, working mainly on repair guides and teardowns. I later co-wrote a lot of the instructions for iFixit’s university technical writing project, and helped coach a few thousand engineering students from over 50 universities through their technical writing coursework. I’ve enjoyed being a guest lecturer and attending academic conferences on technical writing, and helped teach a few of iFixit’s in-house workshops for technical writing instructors.
If working at iFixit sounds awesome, that’s because frequently, it is—I’m grateful to have been at the right place and time to collaborate on some world-class projects with this team. Because of iFixit, I’ve helped Greenpeace create its guide to greener electronics, consulted on repairability for some of the world’s top hardware engineers, and written repair guides for Patagonia.
My wife Zan, seen here in a rare photograph that I’m allowed to share with the internet.
I’m naturally an introvert and prefer to stay behind the camera rather than in front of it, but sometimes accidents happen. My talking head has appeared on a few broadcast programs and podcasts, like that time we tore down a Magic Leap One. I’ve also appeared briefly in at least one VICE documentary, wherein I badly needed a haircut and hadn’t slept since two dinners ago.
VICE News chased us to Australia for our teardown of the iPhone X.
I do enjoy anonymously sharing my photos though, and they frequently pop up in the tech press. That’s one of the really fun aspects of this job—you never know when your work might help a technology journalist explain a battery problem, solve a waterproofing mystery, or break down a new laptop design.
In my free time I enjoy scuba diving and reading (and sometimes writing) a lot of science fiction nonsense.
Forcing the battery out with a spudger creates a much higher risk of a dangerous accident. Also, flexing the logic board can separate BGA chips from their pads, at which point you are in for a much more difficult/expensive repair. Might work out alright if you’re lucky, but I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone.
Removing the screw does not disconnect the power—power comes from the battery terminals contacting the underside of the logic board, and they’re tricky to separate reliably at this stage of disassembly. This step is the safest and easiest way to kill power; don’t skip it.
Good question! These instructions are for Intel-based machines—I don’t know of any solution for the newer ARM-based (M1) MacBooks. If we learn how to do it, we’ll update the instructions.
As stated in the banner at the top, this isn’t a guide—but if it’s instructions you need, we have those over here. Phillips driver sizes are not standardized, and vary from one tool manufacturer to the next, so you’ll just have to test carefully and use whichever one fits best. Using iFixit drivers, I usually prefer a PH00 for iPhone screws, but a PH000 works for virtually all of them as well.
Here you go!
Sorry to hear that! Might possibly have been a defective battery, although usually when this happens it’s from trying to put an iPhone 6s battery into an iPhone 6 or vice versa. They’re not compatible, so it’s important to double-check. You can verify by looking at the model number printed on the back case—A1633, A1688, or A1700 is iPhone 6s, while A1549, A1586, or A1589 indicates iPhone 6. Hope you have better luck on your next repair.
Sorry for the trouble there. Removing the film is mentioned in the conclusion: “Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.” In other words, the new part should look just like the replacement part before you continue. So I guess the question is, were these instructions unclear (in which case, maybe we should rephrase)—or, did you not notice them at all? (In which case, maybe we should make them more prominent.) Good job working through it though. Congrats on a successful repair!
As stated in the banner at the top, this is not a guide and should not be used as instructions. If it’s step-by-step instructions you want, we have those over here.
As stated in the banner at the top, this is not a guide and should not be used as instructions. If it’s step-by-step instructions you want, we have those over here.
To clarify: the regular/smaller iPhone 7 has no screw on the far left there. The 7 Plus does, but there’s no need to touch it unless you’re removing the large metal shield covering the back of the display. The procedure in the guide is correct.
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