Is the glass itself broken? Or has the whole mirror mount been broken off the car? You can order glass specially for your car on eBay or you can order the whole mount. Or go to a junkyard and pull your part needed. Then follow a video like this one here.
Can you boot from an external HD with a copy of Mac OS X installed on it? That’s usually my first go-to for a problem to diagnose if it is a software or hardware issue.
I used to have the same MacBook Pro and I had a similar problem. I once plugged in a USB cable and the MacBook Pro just shut down and went black and showed no signs of life at all. After trying several things, including SMC reset, nothing helped. Then I simply just opened up the computer, unplugged the battery, plugged it back in, and it booted normally. I’d say give that go as it is easy and free. But yes, I no longer have that computer because of the dreaded AMD Radeon graphics problems. I am curious on how you disabled the chip though…
First of all, is your MacBook account linked to your Apple ID? Because if it is you can use that to change it. But if not, boot into Recovery mode. When the MacBook is booting up hold down the “COMMAND” + “R” at the same time. Select Utilities from the Menu Bar. Select Terminal. Type in “resetpassword” and then press enter. Change you password. For more details you can go here.
I ended up sending my DJI Phantom 4 in to DJI and they replaced three of my motors that must have gone bad in the crash and the ESC board (left). they also replaced the left and right landing gear modules but I think that was unrelated to the ESC status errors. From what I've read it seems that the ESC status error comes from the motors not turning as they should and it burns out the ESC board.
My WiFi was greyed out and my Bluetooth was also not working on my iPhone 6 so I replaced the WiFi antenna flex cable and then my WiFi and Bluetooth both started working. This seems to be a pretty common problem but nearly all of the youtube videos and websites are rubbish. iPhone 6 Antenna Flex Cable Replacement
My WiFi was greyed out and my Bluetooth was also not working on my iPhone 6 so I replaced the WiFi antenna flex cable and then my WiFi and Bluetooth both started working. This seems to be a pretty common problem but nearly all of the youtube videos and websites are rubbish. iPhone 6 Antenna Flex Cable Replacement
I actually have a phone with a very similar problem now. The iPhone I have has a new battery but it drains so quickly. After doing some research it may have something to do with the U2 IC. Unfortunately it isn't an easy repair so you will probably have to have a professional do it. Check these out; My battery drains quickly Even After replacement? iPhone 6 U2 ic Replacement iPhone 6 will not charge..
Hello Peter, I am unsure what glue was used. If I remember correctly, it felt like a silicone based glue. However I have to admit, I did not bother gluing the cables back down when reassembling the drone. Also, note that I made the mistake of cutting the cables rather than just unsoldering them, so I didn’t even break the glue by the solder joints. I definitely wouldn't use anything too strong in case you have to do it again. You could honestly probably get away with just a basic glue like the Elmers glue that you give kids in school. The cables are soldered at one end and fixed on the other so the glue’s main purpose was to keep the cable from rattling around too much and from getting pinched during assembly. You could also look into the Loctite Silicone glue at Walmart for $5. Maybe do a test with the Loctite on a small piece of scrap plastic to see how it sticks, how flexible it is, and if you could easily pry a cable out of it if you need to ever do it again.
The ESC errors are a tricky one. I was not able to repair mine and ended up sending my drone in to DJI for repair. They ended up raplacing my motors and the left ESC chip. I would honestly just recommend sending it into DJI for repair. I think the only way to fix the ESC error is to have them replace the board. They actually just sent me back a new drone entirely and only charged me for the new case and some labour. I was really satisfied with their service.
If by middel shell you mean the upper shell with the shielding sticker in step 21, yes, you can skip all the other steps and just replace the upper shell. Which would be relatively easy since you wouldn’t have to unsolder any of the propellers to remove the lower shell. However you may not be able to buy just the upper shell and may have to buy the bottom as well, you can look around.
Hello katrapper, I actually made this guide myself from scratch so I don’t know where else you can get guides other than Google and YouTube. This is actually the only drone guide I’ve ever made. So if you do end up getting into fixing drones, please make some guides and share them with the community.
If you cut the wires you should twist and solder them back together to insure you have a good and strong connection. Heat shrink is what you use to cover that connection instead of using something like electrical tape. So what you do is put on a small piece of heat shrink on the wire first, then solder the wire together, then slide the heat shrink tube over the joint, and then you hit it with some heat to shrink the tubing over the connection.
Hello Peter, I am unsure what glue was used. If I remember correctly, it felt like a silicone based glue. However I have to admit, I did not bother gluing the cables back down when reassembling the drone. Also, note that I made the mistake of cutting the cables rather than just unsoldering them, so I didn’t even break the glue by the solder joints. I definitely wouldn't use anything too strong in case you have to do it again. You could honestly probably get away with just a basic glue like the Elmers glue that you give kids in school. The cables are soldered at one end and fixed on the other so the glue’s main purpose was to keep the cable from rattling around too much and from getting pinched during assembly. You could also look into the Loctite Silicone glue at Walmart for $5. Maybe do a test with the Loctite on a small piece of scrap plastic to see how it sticks, how flexible it is, and if you could easily pry a cable out of it if you need to ever do it again.
No worries! I made this guide to help people do that exact thing.
I believe there is only one you need to replace. This was a common issue with the DC24.
The ESC errors are a tricky one. I was not able to repair mine and ended up sending my drone in to DJI for repair. They ended up raplacing my motors and the left ESC chip. I would honestly just recommend sending it into DJI for repair. I think the only way to fix the ESC error is to have them replace the board. They actually just sent me back a new drone entirely and only charged me for the new case and some labour. I was really satisfied with their service.
To be honest DJI was really good. They were fast and affordable. And I got a brand new drone out of it but only paid for a few parts.
If by middel shell you mean the upper shell with the shielding sticker in step 21, yes, you can skip all the other steps and just replace the upper shell. Which would be relatively easy since you wouldn’t have to unsolder any of the propellers to remove the lower shell. However you may not be able to buy just the upper shell and may have to buy the bottom as well, you can look around.
Hello katrapper, I actually made this guide myself from scratch so I don’t know where else you can get guides other than Google and YouTube. This is actually the only drone guide I’ve ever made. So if you do end up getting into fixing drones, please make some guides and share them with the community.
Thank you Julio! I’ve just corrected this to saying T6. I’m glad this guide was helpful for you.
I agree, waste of time and you risk damaging the battery if the adhesive is too strong.
If you cut the wires you should twist and solder them back together to insure you have a good and strong connection. Heat shrink is what you use to cover that connection instead of using something like electrical tape. So what you do is put on a small piece of heat shrink on the wire first, then solder the wire together, then slide the heat shrink tube over the joint, and then you hit it with some heat to shrink the tubing over the connection.
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