disconnect battery plug in screen and connect to charge. (try just the screen without the front camera) You should get an apple logo after 10 seconds or so If you don’t, check your charge port is seated correctly Sounds like your phone is fake charging
I have Never ever seen an optical drive with a non removable PCB :) however you will need to make sure the drive assembly and optical pickup are the same as the one for your consoles PCB
iphone batteries have over discharge protection, once the voltage goes below a threshold, the battery is locked out for safety. You can reset this but it’s better to just replace the cell with a new one. These batteries don’t “leak” so highly doubt damage to logic board from the battery
its probably damage to the modem, either from the water or physically damaged (iphone 6 bends near sim tray) Do you have imei number when dialing *#06# Do you have modem firmware under settings if either of these are missing updating will essentially brick the phone, you’ll get stuck on an activation screen. I suggest taking it to an experienced shop for repair.
Where did you get the screen, the touch panels on the copy oled, HO3 and LCD versions of the iphone X are the cheaper kind (you can see the easy digitizer in sunlight) are not very good. There was a known issue with the iphone X causing touch problems after repair and this IIRC was a software update. Try reseating the connectors and see if there is any bits of crud in the connectors on the motherboard. it could very well be just a bad screen
If you use hot air to warm the whole case up (like how samsung use a small low temp oven for their phones) the felt should come off in one piece and stick back like new (warm it back up to reseal).
The phone still uses it's own charging IC, this IC is most likely only used for charging the battery in the case and feeding battery charge data (from the Ti chip in the base of the battery) back via the lightning port.
half this guide can be skipped, all you need to do is:
disconnect the battery
disconnect LCD flex and peel off the conductive tape
heat LCD up
Slide a thin plastic tool in under the LCD (can be anything, like the hard-ish plastic used in blister packs), there is only tape along the sides, start at the top center of the lcd. Seriously just slide it down and cut the tape (it's super strong!)
Now just lift the battery up about 3mm (on the same side as the lcd flex) and slide the lcd out, flex and all..
Total repair time is HALVED and you don't mess up the rest of the RF shielding tape.
I know this is an old comment but it is the top one, so this is a note for other people :)
You don’t only risk the SSD, you also risk damaging the rest of the computer.
Also please only use a plastic tool to lift off the battery connector, shorting out the pins can damage your SMC!
If you use hot air to warm the whole case up (like how samsung use a small low temp oven for their phones) the felt should come off in one piece and stick back like new (warm it back up to reseal).
The phone still uses it's own charging IC, this IC is most likely only used for charging the battery in the case and feeding battery charge data (from the Ti chip in the base of the battery) back via the lightning port.
Most sellers now will sell the cable with shield and thermal insulation pre-assembled, for slightly more than flex only
half this guide can be skipped, all you need to do is:
disconnect the battery
disconnect LCD flex and peel off the conductive tape
heat LCD up
Slide a thin plastic tool in under the LCD (can be anything, like the hard-ish plastic used in blister packs), there is only tape along the sides, start at the top center of the lcd. Seriously just slide it down and cut the tape (it's super strong!)
Now just lift the battery up about 3mm (on the same side as the lcd flex) and slide the lcd out, flex and all..
Total repair time is HALVED and you don't mess up the rest of the RF shielding tape.
Total of just 4 screws need to be removed!
:)
hope this helps :)
The 30 pin connector should work if you add in the passive protection components (under the RF shielding)...
That speaker is the same that's used in LE 360's