I just installed a 480GB SanDisk "SSD Plus" in a mid-2011 iMac (with no external thermal sensor on the old drive). I've booted from an El Capitan installer flash drive, formatted the SSD, and am installing El Cap as I write this. No fan noise at all so far. I'm hesitant to clip wires on the power cable, so I'm really hoping my luck holds! If the fans start roaring when booted from the new SSD/El Cap, then I guess I'll have to try P J Sch's technique... The weird thing is that I feel like I've swapped drives in other 2011 iMacs (possibly early-2011?) that still used the sensor cable, and therefore require the OWC part that Dan keeps recommending above. I have, and was prepared to use, that part, but there's no place to plug it in on this model! Learn something new everyday, eh? I hope so at least!
@jeffsu I appreciate the nudge about buying your products; I am, in fact, the proud owner of one of your toolkits, among other things. I can’t tell you all how much I appreciate the work you do here!!
Count me as another person who decided that I didn’t want to have to take the entire guts of the machine out to replace the battery, not to mention that I had no interest in using solvents to dissolve the glue holding the battery in. (I didn’t buy it either). I was able to use a stiff plastic card to cut through the adhesive, and replace the battery with no issues. In fact, I’m going to buy a thin piece of stainless steel, attach a wood ‘handle’ to it, and use that in the future.
I can totally understand why some folks would want to go this route, but it seemed way more complicated to me. And as I said, I hadn’t bought the iFixit solvent, so there was that issue too…
I’m so glad we have iFixit! Kudos all ‘round, and let us know what we can do to help keep this site going!
I am so glad to discover that this process isn’t nearly as difficult as I thought it might be!! The hardest part is reattaching the SATA cable to the new hard drive, but removing the screws that hold the left speaker in place and sliding it aside just a tad makes it easy peasy!!
Kudo to @jerrid_foiles! I was going crazy trying to attach the SATA cable until I took the two screws out of the left speaker and slid the top end of it aside by about 3/4 inch. Make the whole process SO MUCH easier!!
From another comment elsewhere on this repair, I *highly* recommend removing the two screws holding the left speaker in place, then sliding it just a tad out of the way to be able to easily attach the SATA cable. You don’t have to move it much to make the whole process so much easier!
Not a difficult repair at all. I didn’t even have any trouble with the dreaded antenna connectors. The screen I found was $400, so definitely worth doing, as opposed to buying a whole new machine!
What do I do if neither the ear speaker or the front facing camera work? Everything else is fine: proximity sensor, touch screen, home button, speakerphone speaker, etc. I’ve futzed with the connectors over and over, disassembled and reassembled the front-facing camera and sensor assembly multiple times. I’m afraid I may have damaged the connector for that assembly, can that whole assembly be purchased separately?
WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket! I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker… Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side!
It would be very helpful if someone gave us a hint as to how hot to get the glass before the adhesive releases fairly easily. I didn't get it quite hot enough, I think, as it was a bear to get it started to release. My glass was pretty badly smashed around the iSight camera, and that part was a b*tch to get off. I was worried about damaging the LCD or some other component in the lid by getting it too hot.
Can anyone give us some further tips on this point?
@jeffsu I appreciate the nudge about buying your products; I am, in fact, the proud owner of one of your toolkits, among other things. I can’t tell you all how much I appreciate the work you do here!!
Count me as another person who decided that I didn’t want to have to take the entire guts of the machine out to replace the battery, not to mention that I had no interest in using solvents to dissolve the glue holding the battery in. (I didn’t buy it either). I was able to use a stiff plastic card to cut through the adhesive, and replace the battery with no issues. In fact, I’m going to buy a thin piece of stainless steel, attach a wood ‘handle’ to it, and use that in the future.
I can totally understand why some folks would want to go this route, but it seemed way more complicated to me. And as I said, I hadn’t bought the iFixit solvent, so there was that issue too…
I’m so glad we have iFixit! Kudos all ‘round, and let us know what we can do to help keep this site going!
I am so glad to discover that this process isn’t nearly as difficult as I thought it might be!! The hardest part is reattaching the SATA cable to the new hard drive, but removing the screws that hold the left speaker in place and sliding it aside just a tad makes it easy peasy!!
Kudo to @jerrid_foiles! I was going crazy trying to attach the SATA cable until I took the two screws out of the left speaker and slid the top end of it aside by about 3/4 inch. Make the whole process SO MUCH easier!!
From another comment elsewhere on this repair, I *highly* recommend removing the two screws holding the left speaker in place, then sliding it just a tad out of the way to be able to easily attach the SATA cable. You don’t have to move it much to make the whole process so much easier!
Not a difficult repair at all. I didn’t even have any trouble with the dreaded antenna connectors. The screen I found was $400, so definitely worth doing, as opposed to buying a whole new machine!
What do I do if neither the ear speaker or the front facing camera work? Everything else is fine: proximity sensor, touch screen, home button, speakerphone speaker, etc. I’ve futzed with the connectors over and over, disassembled and reassembled the front-facing camera and sensor assembly multiple times. I’m afraid I may have damaged the connector for that assembly, can that whole assembly be purchased separately?
WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket! I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker… Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side!
FYI, OWC (Other World Computing, aka macsales.com) has the 15-inch glass for $25, and the 13-inch for $24:
https://eshop.macsales.com/item/Apple/MB... (15-inch)
https://eshop.macsales.com/item/Apple/MB... (13-inch)
…and I just discovered they even have the 17-inch:
https://eshop.macsales.com/item/Apple/MB...
One last comment: get the glass as hot as you can!
It would be very helpful if someone gave us a hint as to how hot to get the glass before the adhesive releases fairly easily. I didn't get it quite hot enough, I think, as it was a bear to get it started to release. My glass was pretty badly smashed around the iSight camera, and that part was a b*tch to get off. I was worried about damaging the LCD or some other component in the lid by getting it too hot.
Can anyone give us some further tips on this point?