As Ridgway, Colorado’s Mac Doctor, I offer Apple-specific computer consulting, software training, computer upgrades, and a wide variety of computer classes.
Though I am not an Apple-authorized repair technician, I can troubleshoot and repair malfunctioning Macs, upgrade memory, replace hard drives, as well as assist with a variety of issues you might have with your iPhone or iPad.
Tired of wrestling with your old PC, but can't figure out which Mac to buy? I can help with that too.
Those 12 tiny screws are a frickin’ nightmare. They appear to be P1’s, not P2’s , as all I have are a P0.8 and a P1.2, and the 0.8 just strips the heads. I did manage to get one out, but that’s it so far. I’m think I’m going to have to use my Dremel to make a slot for a tiny flat bit to get them out… Grrrr…
@wizdomonwheels, I don’t see how I can get the RAM shield off of the logic board to access the RAM without removing the logic board. What am I missing?? I’m guessing that those of you that are suggesting this technique are working on older iMac models that don’t have the RAM shield.
Just reporting that I finished this install without disconnecting the speakers, removing the SSD, or anything else. I simply disconnected the old battery, the SSD connector, and unscrewed each speaker and gently folded them out of the way. I then used a thin spatula-like tool (that I made) to remove the old battery. A fresh razor blade makes quick work of any remaining adhesive. Only took about 45 minutes all told. Thanks, iFixIt team, for all you do for the DIY community!!
John
@macnb, if you’re replacing the display, which is what these instructions are for, then you *must* disconnect these wires, as the new display includes new ones!
@jeffsu I appreciate the nudge about buying your products; I am, in fact, the proud owner of one of your toolkits, among other things. I can’t tell you all how much I appreciate the work you do here!!
Count me as another person who decided that I didn’t want to have to take the entire guts of the machine out to replace the battery, not to mention that I had no interest in using solvents to dissolve the glue holding the battery in. (I didn’t buy it either). I was able to use a stiff plastic card to cut through the adhesive, and replace the battery with no issues. In fact, I’m going to buy a thin piece of stainless steel, attach a wood ‘handle’ to it, and use that in the future.
I can totally understand why some folks would want to go this route, but it seemed way more complicated to me. And as I said, I hadn’t bought the iFixit solvent, so there was that issue too…
I’m so glad we have iFixit! Kudos all ‘round, and let us know what we can do to help keep this site going!
I am so glad to discover that this process isn’t nearly as difficult as I thought it might be!! The hardest part is reattaching the SATA cable to the new hard drive, but removing the screws that hold the left speaker in place and sliding it aside just a tad makes it easy peasy!!
Kudo to @jerrid_foiles! I was going crazy trying to attach the SATA cable until I took the two screws out of the left speaker and slid the top end of it aside by about 3/4 inch. Make the whole process SO MUCH easier!!
From another comment elsewhere on this repair, I *highly* recommend removing the two screws holding the left speaker in place, then sliding it just a tad out of the way to be able to easily attach the SATA cable. You don’t have to move it much to make the whole process so much easier!
Not a difficult repair at all. I didn’t even have any trouble with the dreaded antenna connectors. The screen I found was $400, so definitely worth doing, as opposed to buying a whole new machine!
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