I’m Arthur—technical writer, teardown engineer, researcher, and photographer at iFixit.
I have the illustrious honor of taking devices apart, identifying components, figuring out how things work, and showing others how to fix stuff. In addition, I perform electrical analysis and research how emergent tech works.
A day at the office: working on Google Pixel 3 guides
I graduated from Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo with a master’s degree in electrical engineering, with a focus on control systems and mechatronics. Along the way, I designed high efficiency DC power circuits, grew organic OLED panels in a vacuum, and programmed a small swarm of robots to autonomously navigate and map out a cluttered room. My thesis work involved training neural networks to detect hidden structural faults in commercial buildings using acceleration sensor data. I enjoy both the theoretical and practical hands-on nature of my degree.
Making single pixel OLED panels in vacuum
Much of my time at iFixit is spent instructing people how to fix stuff by writing step-by-step repair guides. So far, I’ve written over 180 guides for devices ranging from Rug Doctors to iPads. As I research, disassemble, and document repair procedures, I’m always learning something new. Working on smartphones necessitated a good understanding of how lithium-ion batteries work; writing Rug Doctor guides taught me how to remove rivets— something I haven’t had to deal with in smartphones…yet.
Installing a rivet onto the Rug Doctor
I am also a member of iFixit’s team of teardown engineers, publishing informative, in-depth reports on the inner workings of newly-released gadgets such as the Magic Leap One and the iPhone XS. These teardowns includes chip analysis and explain complicated concepts (such as waveguides) in layman’s terms.
Identifying chips for the iPhone XS
I’m curious by nature; I enjoy exploring long-forgotten roads, trying non-mainstream food, and disassembling new smartphones! I like retro, well-designed mechanical machines; I own four typewriters and drive a Suzuki Samurai.
Driving the Sammy on Quatal Canyon road
Hi Maxime,
I’m really sorry to hear that the screen didn’t last! We strive to sell great quality parts. Please contact our support team and we’ll work something out with you.
Hi cybercurry,
Yes, this is the correct battery for your MacBook Air. The laptop’s power input is rated at 14.85V but apparently the battery packs are set up for 7.6V.
You must transfer the original sensor onto the new screen.
Debe transferir el sensor original a la nueva pantalla.
Hi Trent,
The issues you are talking about is due to the user’s camera. This video is a YouTube link and is not hosted by iFixit. The camera issues is because they are using a special camera with high macro zoom, or mounted on a microscope—otherwise you can’t see the traces at all. Specialized cameras tend to not be as advanced and updated as smartphone cameras.
The earpiece speaker is affixed in place with adhesive, but is removable.
Hi wadefultz2,
You can try some of these methods:
How to Remove a Stripped Screw
Hi Koray,
We most likely will in the future!
Hi TT-392,
You are right in that you do not need to remove the battery from the original phone. Removing the battery makes removing the flex cable near the top of the battery easier, but it can be done with the battery in place.
The battery should be held down by at least some adhesive in the phone. The plastic will not cause overheating issues, but you do not want the battery to move in the phone. You can choose to expose some of the battery adhesive so that it will be an easier task to replace it in the future.
Hi Tara,
Unfortunately, with how the OnePlus 3 is designed, you should change the battery also. The lithium-ion battery is easily damaged from any bending occurred when it’s pried out. Replacing it will prevent a lot of future problems.
Hi Ken,
I’m not sure which part you are referencing in terms of flipping the cable to make the fan run properly. Step 10 only points out that the connector is keyed in a way such that you can only connect it in one orientation.
Without the temperature sensor board, the fans will run at full speed. There are some hardware hacks that may keep that from happening, but I would suggest getting software fan control instead to dial your fan speed down.
Third party migration software (such as Super Duper) should work. You may want to ask on the Answers forum to be sure.
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