mike

Samsung LA-46C550 LCD TV Service manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/893977...-La32c550j1f.html Analogue amplifier...

Take out the HDD: Acer Aspire E5-573G Hard Drive Replacement Put new SSD in its place. Remove Optical/DVD drive or the dummy: Acer Aspire E5-573G Optical Drive Replacement Fit HHD to caddy and slide into optical drive space. Clone the HDD to the SSD - SSD manufacture website will usually have free cloning software. Test booting from SSD once cloned. If good format the HDD and you wave extra storage spce.

This doesn’t completely answer your question but may help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ub-PWSoeiIE

I suspect you either put on too much paste on (a common fault) or too little. Also did you clean off all the old paste? I use isopropyl alcohol 99.8% pure to clean. Remember what you are doing is filling in microscopic pits in the bottom of the heat sink and the top of the CPU. If any squishes out the side as you reinstall the heat sink you have used way too much! So redo it and see how it goes.

Why not just run a dead pixel fixing program? JScreen is one popular freeware one: https://www.jscreenfix.com/ There are others.

The online version of the manual explains the error codes: https://hover-1.com/hover-1-pioneer-manual Error E1 - Motor failure, motor needs to be replaced. Error 2E - Accelerator failure, accelerator needs to be replaced. Errors 3E - Motor blocking fault, release the accelerator. Error E4/MOS - Mainboard MOS failure, replace mainboard. Error E6 - Controller/instrument communication failure, the controller needs replacing. Error E7 - Battery over-voltage protection, battery needs replacement. Error E8 - Controller error, controller needs to be replaced. Error E9 - Brake failure, brake needs to be replaced. Of course this doesn’t explain everything but at least it is a start. They do have some troubleshooting and parts on their web site: https://hover-1.com/partsandaccessories

Hi Valoris, It is not really worth doing it for a laptop that old. The hard drive has an IDE/PATA interface so upgrading to an SSD drive is not really an option. Is your RAM the maximum 4GB? If yes that’s it . If no then you could upgrade. That’s about it.

bill’s advice above is good and should be followed. I would reflash the BIOS as well, in case of any corruption. Go to the ASUS web site for this. Next download, when able to, one of the freeware partition editing apps such as EaseUS Partition Master or MiniTool Partion Wizard , etc. Remove the LINUX partition, if you are not going to use it, and expand the Windows 7 one in the resulting free space. Rebuild the MBR - you will see the option in the partitioning software. When all is booting fine upgrade (in place to save all files and apps) for free to Windows 10 whilst it is still free. If you need futher help just ask.

Plug an external monitor or TV into laptop using an HDMI cable. Does everything appear normal on the external screen? If yes then replace the laptops screen. If no then you have serious trouble. To recover your data just remove the SSD and place in a desktop computer or an external USB drive case attaching to another computer. You don’t say if you have any other computers. service manual: https://download.lenovo.com/consumer/mob...

You don’t state exactly which model ( people why do you always forget to do this ??? ) but this video may help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMYh35Tc...

Quite old laptop so try the following: (1) Unplug charger from laptop, take out the battery, press power button for 15-30 seconds, to dischage, and then only plug in the charger and press power button. (2) Does it work? Yes? (3) Then replace battery, from a reputable company. (4) O.K. so you have been just running it on the charger. Is the charger still good? (5) A system that old I would just replace the CMOS battery or even reflash the BIOS. And who knows, the BIOS could have gotten slightly corrupted during a power outage or the like. I have had many system doing strange things and it was slight corruption that was the cause. You never know until you try it.

These name branded external drives are the worst possible choice. Always, always purchase a SEPERATE case/controller and hard drive. Again, why? Often the branded ones have the drive’s circuit board and the USB port imbedded in the same circuit board. If that circuit screws up you are often lost. The component solution (like a good hi-fi sound systems) allows you to easily take the drive out, if the USB part goes bad, and recover your software in another system or case. If the drive dies replace it or upgrade to SSD or larger capacity. A no brainer!